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UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

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MrSlack:
I've had one a few months and I have no problems with it. Gets a bit dicky if the battery goes flat. Mainly use it in manual ranging mode if I'm honest

I get ~220pF with a couple of Pomona minigrabber to 4mm leads attached to it. As someone said, use REL for capacitance measurements to deduce input circuitry and lead capacitance. The supplied component tester module is crap - I threw it away.

As for high energy I regularly use it up to ~110v DC (inside a Tek scope) and AC mains, voltage only! I make a habit of not actually probing anything high energy live and use clip probes then apply power so the meter is not making a circuit with me at all at any point and I wear eye protection when working on anything likely to go pop.

Regarding multimeter lore, I suspect more people injure themselves not from the meter blowing up but doing something stupid to start with (probe shorts, accidentally becoming part of a ground loop etc etc)

Interesting bit: I paid £40 for mine - total bargain!

Salas:
Can high energy but low voltage as stored in a large capacitor or in a car battery damage the meter as badly as the mains or HV?

MrSlack:
Probably not a capacitor or a car battery as the general nature of the high impedance inputs means that the capacitor can't discharge quickly enough. If you stick it on amps and short it then it'll just pop a fuse. Inductors on the other hand, when the magnetic field collapses can produce hundreds to thousands of volts which can jump around or through any protection and high impedance inputs.

Thilo78:

--- Quote from: Hydrawerk on April 09, 2016, 12:35:01 am ---I got much better results on some old multimeters.

--- End quote ---
Not sure if it helps, but I'll throw in the result from my UT71E.
No leads: 0 pF
Leads attached: 11 pF

Salas:
My 61E shows 66pF sans leads, 85pF with Brymen leads

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