If you need to pay more than $60 for a UT61E, it doesn't look as good. It isn't worth that price unless you need the PC connection and at that it is still not a great buy. Without back light and auto power off it doesn't compete at $90 when you can get an Amprobe AM270 for the same price which has much better input protection, back light, auto power off, and basically the same accuracy. The UT61E does have 22000 count though instead of 5000.
Happy Diwali to all
Not quite sure why you posted that in here but happy Diwali mate!
Festival of loud bangs..........
Started on 1 Nov and will continue till Dec.
Do you think it would be possible (and make sense) to fix/upgrade the input section of this meter, e.g. by replacing the split input jacks with solid ones, and perhaps adding some MOVs or other protections ?
Why do you need to "upgrade" the split jacks? They work fine for what they are.
MOVs into the Gas discharge tubes footprint is a good idea if i remember that's what monkeh did
As well as the fairly obvious one is to upgrade the fuses. I am getting a box of 6.3x32 1000V siba 30-50kA fuses for 500mA and 10A (Clearly for my upcoming MS8218, 500V for the FF10A) as well as 10x38 Siba 30kA (the ones agilent uses) 1000V for 10A
Odd that a smaller fuse has a much higher breaking capacity rating at the same voltage while being cheaper
Apparently there is no problem in my 61E,but after opening it I found that there are loads of non shiny surface,so if I heat the solder points and apply rosin,could it be be better for accuracy or can it hamper the calibration ?
Welcome to the horror that unleaded solder is !
Unleaded solder can look very dull and almost a 'dry joint' in its appearance. I still use 2% silver loaded leaded 60/40 solder and always have nice shiny joints. Don't worry about the dull look in your meter, it is normal unleaded ROHS compliant (read 'crap') solder and should be OK. Rosin will not help as teh solder is the problem not the flux.
Kind Regards
Fraser
It ain't 60/40 if it's got 2% silver in it!
Welcome to the horror that unleaded solder is !
Unleaded solder can look very dull and almost a 'dry joint' in its appearance. I still use 2% silver loaded leaded 60/40 solder and always have nice shiny joints. Don't worry about the dull look in your meter, it is normal unleaded ROHS compliant (read 'crap') solder and should be OK. Rosin will not help as teh solder is the problem not the flux.
Kind Regards
Fraser
Hey there mate! Been some time since i've seen you around, there's a new lead-free out there that could be considered though, it's Sn42Bi58 and if i remember it's melting point is 138C
You don't need silver in 60/40 solder for a shiny joint. Quality solder manufactured from high purity material coupled with proper flux makes shiny mirror joints.
My 61E arrived today.
In the manual I see warning: "To avoid personal harm, do not attempt to input higher than 30V rms tested frequency voltage."
I want to ask can I measure frequency of the 220V wall outlet?
I'm confused here.
My 61E arrived today.
In the manual I see warning: "To avoid personal harm, do not attempt to input higher than 30V rms tested frequency voltage."
I want to ask can I measure frequency of the 220V wall outlet?
I'm confused here.
Yes, press the yellow button while in VAC.
I really don't see why people want to measure that all the time though.
It had successfully measured that the 1kHz/1MHz probe test outlet in my Hameg HM204-2 vintage scope had drifted to 1.16MHz with UT61E in Hz mode (2Vpp test outlet). I was sure I had adjusted the horizontal to proper cal along with the vertical when I got that scope broken years ago from Epay and fixed it, but the test signal it looked bit narrow on screen now. Then the same 1.16MHz was verified on the Rigol. So its Hz function is reliable enough I think. I was ready to open the beast again and dive in but a handy check with that meter gave me the right clue.
Only time will be with a cheap genset when you want to see what the frequency is because it is unstable.
Only time will be with a cheap genset when you want to see what the frequency is because it is unstable.
Just run a quick test. Can follow my gen well in Hz mode at 200mV RMS (high Z ampl=displayed X2). It loses it beyond 460kHz if in ACV yellow shift Hz mode. 50kHz if signal is 50mV RMS.
So the Hz mode advantage is it is more sensitive in lower amplitudes. ACV Hz mode needs significantly more signal level to keep track progressively as the frequency goes up. But it can take more than 30V AC.
My 61E arrived today.
In the manual I see warning: "To avoid personal harm, do not attempt to input higher than 30V rms tested frequency voltage."
I want to ask can I measure frequency of the 220V wall outlet?
I'm confused here.
Yes, press the yellow button while in VAC.
I really don't see why people want to measure that all the time though.
Can I also turn the knob to Hz/% position and then also test the wall outlet frequency? Will it do any harm to the instrument?
My 61E arrived today.
In the manual I see warning: "To avoid personal harm, do not attempt to input higher than 30V rms tested frequency voltage."
I want to ask can I measure frequency of the 220V wall outlet?
I'm confused here.
Yes, press the yellow button while in VAC.
I really don't see why people want to measure that all the time though.
Can I also turn the knob to Hz/% position and then also test the wall outlet frequency? Will it do any harm to the instrument?
I believe the manual answered your question already.
Why do you even want to check the mains frequency? I assure you, it's not going anywhere.
Can I also turn the knob to Hz/% position and then also test the wall outlet frequency? Will it do any harm to the instrument?
I believe the manual answered your question already.
Why do you even want to check the mains frequency? I assure you, it's not going anywhere.
[/quote]
I don't know really , just for the info. I turned the knob to Hz/% and into the AC mains, just for the split of a second and there was some fast beep sound from the instrument and i disconent it immediately. He appairs to work normal, on the V switch is showing 50Hz. Is it protected for the case of a misusing?
Can I also turn the knob to Hz/% position and then also test the wall outlet frequency? Will it do any harm to the instrument?
I believe the manual answered your question already.
Why do you even want to check the mains frequency? I assure you, it's not going anywhere.
I don't know really , just for the info. I turned the knob to Hz/% and into the AC mains, just for the split of a second and there was some fast beep sound from the instrument and i disconent it immediately. He appairs to work normal, on the V switch is showing 50Hz. Is it well protected for the case of a misusing?
[/quote]
I don't know really , just for the info. I turned the knob to Hz/% and into the AC mains, just for the split of a second and there was some fast beep sound from the instrument and i disconent it immediately. He appairs to work normal, on the V switch is showing 50Hz. Is it protected for the case of a misusing?
No, it's playing the mains through the speaker. Yes, really.
It'll do that for a short while before it breaks. Don't use that switch position above 30V.