Author Topic: UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos. (Read 787971 times)

sdttn · « **Reply #75 on:** January 12, 2012, 12:00:51 am »

@Aurora
Can you compare inside structure with my photos in first page?

Fraser · « **Reply #76 on:** January 12, 2012, 09:23:26 am »

Can do

Will take alook this evening

Aurora

Fraser · « **Reply #77 on:** January 12, 2012, 09:31:50 pm »

Pictures as requested.

There is an ugly modification involving piggybacking of a capacitor but all else seems OK at first glance.

Aurora

alm · « **Reply #78 on:** January 12, 2012, 11:28:23 pm »

Quote from: dith77 on January 10, 2012, 09:24:39 pm

If the chip has the potencial, then the only reason not to use it, is the limitation of the casing (ALL ut61 series use the same case). We can't change the case, but we can drill a nice hole on it!!!

If the meter is properly designed for over voltages, this will be negated by drilling holes and using buttons not designed for high voltages (only 250VAC for < 1 min). Remember Dave's high voltage DMM destruction videos. Now think what happens if you're holding it in your hand and there's a hole in the bottom without proper sealing.

Quote from: Aurora on January 12, 2012, 09:31:50 pm

Pictures as requested.

There is an ugly modification involving piggybacking of a capacitor but all else seems OK at first glance.

Some ugly joints in your last pic. Very little input protection and some old-fashioned trimmers (no closed case calibration). Not impressed by the display connector either. But these (except for the ugly joints) are all design issues, not manufacturing/QA issues. Guess that's why it's cheap.

Fraser · « **Reply #79 on:** January 12, 2012, 11:41:22 pm »

Hi alm,

Totally agree.

I wouldn't have paid more for this and it will never see a high energy circuit

I just noticed in the last picture a hilarious 'engineering solution'.....to the left of the black 'thing' there are THREE SMD components stacked on top of eachother. Now that is very poor practice for a production unit !

I'm happy for this to me a disposable meter for odd jobs and the price was certainly OK. I'm happier with my UTD1025C purchase though

Aurora

alm · « **Reply #80 on:** January 13, 2012, 12:05:27 am »

Where can I find your teardown of that UTD1025C?

dith77 · « **Reply #81 on:** January 13, 2012, 12:54:39 am »

Quote from: alm on January 12, 2012, 11:28:23 pm

If the meter is properly designed for over voltages, this will be negated by drilling holes and using buttons not designed for high voltages (only 250VAC for < 1 min). Remember Dave's high voltage DMM destruction videos. Now think what happens if you're holding it in your hand and there's a hole in the bottom without proper sealing.

Haven't seen them yet.... (busted) newbie on the forum!!!

Quote from: alm on January 12, 2012, 11:28:23 pm

Some ugly joints in your last pic.

Really awful details.... I'm still wondering whether I should cancel my order before it is shipped - or not.....
$46 is very expensive if you must pay another $100 to buy a proper one.

I'm just a hobbyist, and didn't want to spend $50 more to buy the chinese Fluke 17b..... but now I'm really worried about the UT61E quality.....
Currently I have a chinese cheap meter (Xiole DT9205A bought from Dealextreme). I was hoping to get a much better one, but UT61E seems more or less equivalent

Teknotronix · « **Reply #82 on:** January 13, 2012, 01:52:35 am »

If this meter for $50 is compared to the $50 meters in the shootout, it suddenly becomes better value.

sdttn · « **Reply #83 on:** January 13, 2012, 01:55:47 am »

@Aurora
Thanks for the photos.

There is no big difference.

Will you do back light mod?

FenderBender · « **Reply #84 on:** January 13, 2012, 04:06:36 am »

That's some of the ugliest SMD soldering I've every seen. Did they grab some random hobo to hand solder them or something? Jeez.

vtl · « **Reply #85 on:** January 13, 2012, 04:53:28 am »

Looks like the plastic has melted from a soldering iron on that SIP part, is that a resistor network? Leads aren't properly formed too, just bent over which is a bit crappy.

mariush · « **Reply #86 on:** January 13, 2012, 06:25:20 am »

Here's some pictures of the insides on my multimeter. I got this a few months ago off eBay for... probably 58$ including shipping.

My version has only one SMD piece over the other but the two separate pcb mounted parts are soldered between them.

vk6hdx · « **Reply #87 on:** January 13, 2012, 07:45:56 am »

There is certainly some sloppy soldering & hacks in these UT61E's. I'm still waiting for DD to ship the one that I ordered last week. It looks as though they may have run out of stock. $:-\$

sdttn · « **Reply #88 on:** January 13, 2012, 01:38:54 pm »

dinodirect send me this picture $:-\$

vk6hdx · « **Reply #89 on:** January 13, 2012, 01:55:08 pm »

Quote from: sdttn on January 13, 2012, 01:38:54 pm

dinodirect send me this picture $:-\$

WTF is that, it doesn't even match the description.

Fraser · « **Reply #90 on:** January 13, 2012, 03:27:15 pm »

Well its red, just like a Uni-T meter.....don't know what you are worried about..... only joking

An email to Dino Direct is in order to ensure you get a meter instead of a 'red thingy' !

Fraser · « **Reply #91 on:** January 13, 2012, 04:49:25 pm »

alm,

To answer your question regarding the UTD1025C....

I have been 'playing' with it since it arrived yesterday to make sure the Channel A issue is the only fault....it is

I now have to build up the courage to start dismantling it.... I am thinking things will be pretty tight inside that case ! I will do a very careful and staged disassembly with plenty of pictures that may be posted on this Blog. Once its apart, the investigation into the cause of its Channel A failure will begin

I'm kind of looking forward to it, yet at the same time dreading what I may find....my eyes aren't what they used to be

but I do have all manner of optical and electronic vision enhancers available

I have started another thread on the UTD1025C, progress will appear there.

vk6hdx · « **Reply #92 on:** January 16, 2012, 06:29:45 am »

Just got my pic from DinoDirect. At least its looks like the right thing is on its way.

shebu18 · « **Reply #93 on:** January 16, 2012, 07:17:21 am »

On the display you have a 4000 or 6000 count multi, not a 22000. I will order my from ebay, still china.

vk6hdx · « **Reply #94 on:** January 16, 2012, 07:24:04 am »

Quote from: shebu18 on January 16, 2012, 07:17:21 am

On the display you have a 4000 or 6000 count multi, not a 22000. I will order my from ebay, still china.

I think the same box is used for all the UT-61 series meters most of which are 4000 or 6000 count. The UT-61E is indeed 22000 count as per the specs @ http://www.uni-trend.com/UT61E.html, fingers crossed I get sent the right one.

Fraser · « **Reply #95 on:** January 16, 2012, 08:32:00 am »

All UT61 models use the same generic box.

The Dino supplied item is no different to other sources and is a 22000 count UT-61E.

PedroDaGr8 · « **Reply #96 on:** January 23, 2012, 03:00:31 am »

Price shot up on the DinoDirect site. No longer a good deal.

Teknotronix · « **Reply #97 on:** January 26, 2012, 11:28:31 pm »

My UT61E just showed up after all this time. Only opened it up but im pretty happy with it so far. Only thing it needs is a nicer set of leads. I will tear mine down soon and post pics. Also have the LED's ready to do the mod.

Teknotronix · « **Reply #98 on:** January 27, 2012, 01:31:21 am »

Here are just a few of the tear down shots, I will post more later. First thing I notice is that this board has a different layout than those in the other images in this thread, particularly in the area where dodgy soldering has been identified. My meters build date is 27 Oct 2011, not sure how that compares with the others.

plunger · « **Reply #99 on:** January 27, 2012, 04:44:54 am »

I also got mine in today from a USA source. I took mine all apart and wished that I didn't. The 10A lead pin got bent pretty good while re-assembling. I also put the dial in backwards.


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Author Topic: UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos. (Read 787971 times)

alm

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