Upgrading Mainboard in Lecroy DDA-3000 (aka WavePro 7300a?)

[ZhuraYuk]

Does anyone thought about sound absorbing foam for cars? You can create vent from it  and glue on the housing walls.

Update: Here is what I got using self adhesive Polyurethane foam for cars.

[ZhuraYuk]

Another update. So this thing works, but it block only high frequency component of the noise. Only low frequency soft hum is left which is much more bearable and I am ok with it.

[nctnico]

My 7200A has an annoying problem: the cursor knobs don't work. Or at least they move erratically when I turn the knobs. Either I'm doing something wrong or the encoders are bad.

[analogRF]

My 7200A has an annoying problem: the cursor knobs don't work. Or at least they move erratically when I turn the knobs. Either I'm doing something wrong or the encoders are bad.

most probably the encoders. do the cursors work properly with mouse and touchscreen?
Although possible but I wouldn't try to repair the encoders for such a nice and pricey equipment. You can buy them new from reputable sources (like digikey or mouser or farnell etc..) and usually they are cheap. I once replaced 2-3 of them on my wavepro 960. Most probably they are either from ALPS or Bourns, if there is no part number, just try to match their size and configuration to one of the encoders from these two brands

[lukier]

My 7200A has an annoying problem: the cursor knobs don't work. Or at least they move erratically when I turn the knobs. Either I'm doing something wrong or the encoders are bad.

As analogRF said - dirty encoders, infamous ALPS one where the grease spreads everywhere. There is quite a bit of them and they are not that cheap (I think EC16 series it was), so I've decided to take them apart and clean them by hand. If I bought new it would cost quite a bit and I would have to desolder the old ones which is a bit of work anyway. Depends how highly you value your time.

[nctnico]

My 7200A has an annoying problem: the cursor knobs don't work. Or at least they move erratically when I turn the knobs. Either I'm doing something wrong or the encoders are bad.

As analogRF said - dirty encoders, infamous ALPS one where the grease spreads everywhere. There is quite a bit of them and they are not that cheap (I think EC16 series it was), so I've decided to take them apart and clean them by hand. If I bought new it would cost quite a bit and I would have to desolder the old ones which is a bit of work anyway. Depends how highly you value your time.

Well I probably like new encoders unless the price is insane. What puts me off right now is taking the oscilloscope apart again. I already noticed the front panel is not very easy to access.

[analogRF]

My 7200A has an annoying problem: the cursor knobs don't work. Or at least they move erratically when I turn the knobs. Either I'm doing something wrong or the encoders are bad.

As analogRF said - dirty encoders, infamous ALPS one where the grease spreads everywhere. There is quite a bit of them and they are not that cheap (I think EC16 series it was), so I've decided to take them apart and clean them by hand. If I bought new it would cost quite a bit and I would have to desolder the old ones which is a bit of work anyway. Depends how highly you value your time.

I just checked my order history, for my Wavepro 960, they were Bourns encoders (PEC16 series) and they were CA $1.51 each from mouser back in 2018.
about 2 month ago I had to buy an ALPS encoder (EC12 series) for my AFG3252 and it was CA $1.36 from mouser

EDIT: and they were very easy and clean to replace if you have a good soldering iron and good solder wick, nothing else.

[Converter]

Buy a new encoder? Sorry, but such an action is for completely armless people. There is nothing in them that even a child would not cope with.
In recent times, I have been servicing them without even soldering from the board.

[analogRF]

Buy a new encoder? Sorry, but such an action is for completely armless people. There is nothing in them that even a child would not cope with.
In recent times, I have been servicing them without even soldering from the board.

yeah, well, I have repaired/cleaned a dozen of similar encoders on lecroy scopes (LC584AL and WP 960) and agilent power supplies but the problem was that the intermittent behavior usually comes back pretty soon specially if you use it frequently everyday. much much earlier than a new encoder.

if the brand new encoder is just $1-$1.5 I rather buy a brand new (along with other items that I might need in a BOM to combine the shipping) from mouser or digikey or newark. Soldering and desoldering them is a piece of cake really: good iron + good wick

[analogRF]

I finally received the replacement LCD from the same source that Mechatrommer mentioned and I took the lCD out of its frame and replaced it without touching the touhscreen  Very easy as nctnico said.

Now the screen looks nice and uniform...I am sure that original LCD should be repairable somehow but I dont know how...
Still running my 3.2GHz Prescott CPU and temps are ok with the original stock fan! But I have got a beefier cooler which I will replace
it. However the CD drive will have to go which is perfectly OK with me.

instead of those Gentle Typhoon Nidec fans (D1225C12B7) which was mentioned in the thread, I found these fans that you can easily buy from mouser : Sanyo Denky 9G1212F101 for the two big ACQ fans and Delta AFB0912H-F00 for the PSU fan
I have not replaced them yet but these fans are easily available and they have better specs both in air flow and static pressure and with the same noise level (or even slightly better) than those Gentle Typhoon fans which was expensive (at least for me with shipping to Canada)

now I am a bit puzzled as to how the fans are disassembled from the unit? There is a foam like layer underneath for noise reduction which is probably degraded after all these years and I am afraid it may be destroyed if I try to lift the fan holder plate. Any hint as to how to safely and cleanly removed the fans and replace them?

[Converter]

Buy a new encoder? Sorry, but such an action is for completely armless people. There is nothing in them that even a child would not cope with.
In recent times, I have been servicing them without even soldering from the board.

yeah, well, I have repaired/cleaned a dozen of similar encoders on lecroy scopes (LC584AL and WP 960) and agilent power supplies but the problem was that the intermittent behavior usually comes back pretty soon specially if you use it frequently everyday. much much earlier than a new encoder.

if the brand new encoder is just $1-$1.5 I rather buy a brand new (along with other items that I might need in a BOM to combine the shipping) from mouser or digikey or newark. Soldering and desoldering them is a piece of cake really: good iron + good wick

Just that you should also bend the contacts a little, as the metal gets tired over time.

[analogRF]

Buy a new encoder? Sorry, but such an action is for completely armless people. There is nothing in them that even a child would not cope with.
In recent times, I have been servicing them without even soldering from the board.

yeah, well, I have repaired/cleaned a dozen of similar encoders on lecroy scopes (LC584AL and WP 960) and agilent power supplies but the problem was that the intermittent behavior usually comes back pretty soon specially if you use it frequently everyday. much much earlier than a new encoder.

if the brand new encoder is just $1-$1.5 I rather buy a brand new (along with other items that I might need in a BOM to combine the shipping) from mouser or digikey or newark. Soldering and desoldering them is a piece of cake really: good iron + good wick

Just that you should also bend the contacts a little, as the metal gets tired over time.

yes, I had done all of that...once I had to open and repair the encoder on AFG3252 like every 10 days or so! It would be perfectly alright for 10-12 days and would start misbehaving again. Same with a couple of encoders on LC584 and WP960....so I gave up and bought new ones and replaced them. at $1 or $1.5 I would always do it. Sure if you just need to buy 1 encoder and pay shipping for it, it might be considered as expensive but I usually combine them in a BOM with other supplies...

EDIT: at first I was afraid of ruining the board when desoldering them but after the first one I realized it was pretty easy and safe...but a cheap iron or cheap chinese solder wick will not do it.

[nctnico]

now I am a bit puzzled as to how the fans are disassembled from the unit? There is a foam like layer underneath for noise reduction which is probably degraded after all these years and I am afraid it may be destroyed if I try to lift the fan holder plate. Any hint as to how to safely and cleanly removed the fans and replace them?

You can unscrew the entire baseplate on which the foam layer is glued to. After that you can (carefully) manouvre the fans out including the base plate. In my unit the foam layer was perfectly fine. It is a kind of rubber-foam which doesn't seem te degrade.

[DaJMasta]

I've also ran into some encoder issues on WP7k scopes, but mine have always just been oxidation from disuse.  Give em a few dozen spins and they start working alright again - just seems like when stored in a non-ideal climate and not used for a while, they take some working to get registering properly again.

[ZhuraYuk]

instead of those Gentle Typhoon Nidec fans (D1225C12B7) which was mentioned in the thread, I found these fans that you can easily buy from mouser : Sanyo Denky 9G1212F101 for the two big ACQ fans and Delta AFB0912H-F00 for the PSU fan
I have not replaced them yet but these fans are easily available and they have better specs both in air flow and static pressure and with the same noise level (or even slightly better) than those Gentle Typhoon fans which was expensive (at least for me with shipping to Canada)

Can you post screenshot of your temperatures for Aladdin acquisition board from Service Menu after you replace the fans?
I see that they are twice weaker as original ones and have high doubts about their ability to keep temperatures in safe ranges.

[analogRF]

instead of those Gentle Typhoon Nidec fans (D1225C12B7) which was mentioned in the thread, I found these fans that you can easily buy from mouser : Sanyo Denky 9G1212F101 for the two big ACQ fans and Delta AFB0912H-F00 for the PSU fan
I have not replaced them yet but these fans are easily available and they have better specs both in air flow and static pressure and with the same noise level (or even slightly better) than those Gentle Typhoon fans which was expensive (at least for me with shipping to Canada)

Can you post screenshot of your temperatures for Aladdin acquisition board from Service Menu after you replace the fans?
I see that they are twice weaker as original ones and have high doubts about their ability to keep temperatures in safe ranges.

yes certainly I will do that when i find the time to replace the fans. hopefully soon...I already have them here...
but several people have reported their temps are the same or even 1-2deg better with those gentle typhoon fans
if that is the case, these ones must be even better because they have better specs than Nidec fans. However, yes they are still weaker
than the original panaflo fans which are loud like a 747 engine

[nctnico]

instead of those Gentle Typhoon Nidec fans (D1225C12B7) which was mentioned in the thread, I found these fans that you can easily buy from mouser : Sanyo Denky 9G1212F101 for the two big ACQ fans and Delta AFB0912H-F00 for the PSU fan
I have not replaced them yet but these fans are easily available and they have better specs both in air flow and static pressure and with the same noise level (or even slightly better) than those Gentle Typhoon fans which was expensive (at least for me with shipping to Canada)

Can you post screenshot of your temperatures for Aladdin acquisition board from Service Menu after you replace the fans?
I see that they are twice weaker as original ones and have high doubts about their ability to keep temperatures in safe ranges.

If you check the graphs of the fans carefully you'll see that the replacement fans aren't weaker at all. The maximum pressure is at zero airflow and the maximum flow is at zero pressure and the graphs are far from linear. In other words: you can't just compare pressure and airflow numbers when comparing fans. The operating point is somewhere in between and that is where the replacement fans match the original fans.

[nctnico]

I've also ran into some encoder issues on WP7k scopes, but mine have always just been oxidation from disuse.  Give em a few dozen spins and they start working alright again - just seems like when stored in a non-ideal climate and not used for a while, they take some working to get registering properly again.

That could be the case with my 7200A. I already had to fix a lot of contact related issues in mine and it came from Singapore (where -I know from my own experience- it is very humid). I have not tested all the encoders yet but so far 6 are flaky or worse.

[ZhuraYuk]

Here is my temperatures after 30 min run in 2ch 20GS mode at 7300A. This is with sound absorbing foam vent mod.

[nctnico]

What is the temperature in the room? With a room temperature of around 23 degrees the MAD temperatures in my 7200A are around 66 degrees.

[analogRF]

can somebody tell me what MAD and MFE and MAM and AMB and MTB mean??

[DaJMasta]

I think MAD is the ADC and MFE is the frontend... which would make MFEEXT the external trigger frontend module and MTB probably the hardware trigger chip?



That would imply that the MAM and maybe the AMB are between the frontend and ADC/trigger blocks, maybe a switching/routing chip, but I don't see it on the board.  You likely can just look for another thing with a heatsink on the acquisition board and it's probably one of them.

[ollopa]

There is some special LeCroy nomenclature employed here. All LeCroy
chips are referred to as three letters beginning with an ’M’ which stands
for monolithic. The complete three letter acronym tries to be descriptive.
Therefore, an MSH is a monolithic sample/hold, an MAD is a monolithic
ADC, and an MAM is a monolithic acquisition memory.

MAM: Monolithic Acquisition Memory
MAD: Monolithic ADC
MSH: Monolithic Sample and Hold
MTT: Monolithic Trigger and Timebase
MFE: Monolithic Front End
MTD: Monolithic Time Digitizer
MST: Monolithic Smart Trigger

AAC: Autonomous Acquisitions Control
HTB: Hybrid Timebase Trigger IC
HAD: Hybrid ADC

[ZhuraYuk]

What is the temperature in the room? With a room temperature of around 23 degrees the MAD temperatures in my 7200A are around 66 degrees.

Room temperature is 25 celsius. When sample rate is low mine also never rize above 67.

[analogRF]

There is some special LeCroy nomenclature employed here. All LeCroy
chips are referred to as three letters beginning with an ’M’ which stands
for monolithic. The complete three letter acronym tries to be descriptive.
Therefore, an MSH is a monolithic sample/hold, an MAD is a monolithic
ADC, and an MAM is a monolithic acquisition memory.

MAM: Monolithic Acquisition Memory
MAD: Monolithic ADC
MSH: Monolithic Sample and Hold
MTT: Monolithic Trigger and Timebase
MFE: Monolithic Front End
MTD: Monolithic Time Digitizer
MST: Monolithic Smart Trigger

AAC: Autonomous Acquisitions Control
HTB: Hybrid Timebase Trigger IC
HAD: Hybrid ADC

thanks. Which Lecroy documentation did you get this from?
what remains though is AMB and MTB. MTB is perhaps Monolithic Timebase chip but what is AMB?