EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: Valver on December 06, 2019, 10:12:22 pm
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For the tech that has it all, now on Banggood, listen to your favorite music while taking measurements!
Oh, and it's an alarm clock also.
![attachimg=1][attach=1]
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I doubt that I could sneak that past Mrs GreyWoolfe.
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If you feel the need for a singing dancing multimeter, the "Aneng Official Store" (no idea if that is accurate) on Aliexpress has them cheap
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000343031770.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000343031770.html)
Time display I can understand perhaps since it's logging (I think) so might be handy, radio.... scratching my head at that one.
Interestingly it's 18650 battery powered.
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Why don't you spend the extra $20 and upgrade to the Aneng AN-8888S, with heated carbohydrate preparation function?
(https://i.postimg.cc/gj4CDJFx/toaster.png)
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Actually, It seems to be a pretty decent meter for the price, .05% accuracy on all DC ranges.
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Actually, It seems to be a pretty decent meter for the price, .05% accuracy on all DC ranges.
You can get just the meter for a lot less:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33004463675.html
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Bluetooth for music but not my voltage readings? It's too bad, all that hardware wasted.
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For me half the reason to get a bench one is to avoid the battery powered thing letting you down, its kinda nice to have it on the mains and just works (tm).
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Time display I can understand perhaps since it's logging (I think) so might be handy,
Actually, I think it probably doesn't have logging at all I was going by the fact it said "Data retention √" but since there is clearly no BT for anything except the audio play back sillyness my guess is that they just mean it has a Hold button!
Also has a silly inverse LCD like was on that meter Dave reviewed a while back and had terrible battery life.
What a strange meter, I can't imagine why they would even think of designing such a thing.
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April 1st seems to be very late this year? :-//
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Actually, It seems to be a pretty decent meter for the price, .05% accuracy on all DC ranges.
All Chinese specifications at minimum are worse by 2 in reality.
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All Chinese specifications at minimum are worse by 2 in reality.
Well then I've been pretty lucky
-[attach=1]
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Actually, It seems to be a pretty decent meter for the price, .05% accuracy on all DC ranges.
All Chinese specifications at minimum are worse by 2 in reality.
No they aren't.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/another-cheapo-multimeter-19999-count-0-05-dc-accuracy/msg1456893/#msg1456893 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/another-cheapo-multimeter-19999-count-0-05-dc-accuracy/msg1456893/#msg1456893)
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So you can listen to AmpHour or eevblog when you are in your lab. Not every phone has good speakers.
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For me half the reason to get a bench one is to avoid the battery powered thing letting you down, its kinda nice to have it on the mains and just works (tm).
It’s not mains powered unfortunately
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I'd assume you can power it indefinitely through the USB port used for charging the 18650s.
I think it's kind of neat. I could see it in a compact lab where you don't have a lot of space.
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The features a tech really needs in a novelty meter, is a non nag female voice or patient cruisey guy (selectable) with a GPS vibe guiding you along with suggestions
and pending BANG! heads up :o
and a warning beeper when a cheapass suss 'n deadly ThreeHungLow product is near the lab or repair bench,
so the appropriate PPE gear can be worn rather than loose BO enhanced singlet, shorts, and flip flops
Put me down for two of these meters if/when they are available :-+
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The features a tech really needs in a novelty meter, is a non nag female voice or patient cruisey guy (selectable) with a GPS vibe guiding you along with suggestions
and pending BANG! heads up :o
and a warning beeper when a cheapass suss 'n deadly ThreeHungLow product is near the lab or repair bench,
so the appropriate PPE gear can be worn rather than loose BO enhanced singlet, shorts, and flip flops
Put me down for two of these meters if/when they are available :-+
English is my first language and I don't understand what you wrote!
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Come on, it wasn't that cryptic mate ;D (I think.. :o )
A talking meter with a 'suspect MIC product' sensor
Talking meters aren't new btw, I have a Tandy/Radio Shack DMM kicking around somewhere.. :-//
worked great for a short while till the flimsy stranded 'press to talk' probe cable died.
hmm, will have to get on to that, it was great getting the readings 'read out' without looking at the meter :clap:
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English is my first language and I don't understand what you wrote!
Come on, it wasn't that cryptic mate ;D (I think.. :o )
Please allow me to translate from stream-of-consciousness to formal English. ;)
For an electronic engineer, the two most useful functions of a "novelty" multimeter are:
- A synthesised voice which, in the patient style of a satellite navigation device, provides suggestions and warnings about impending mistakes the user may be making
- A proximity detector sensitive to cheap gizmos from AliExpress which, upon detecting such device, sounds a warning tone reminding the user to don appropriate personal protective equipment
If and when such a multimeter becomes available, I shall buy two of them.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nnjh-zp6pP4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nnjh-zp6pP4)
For now, we'll have to listen to AC/DC High Voltage on this multimeter...
Not that it has any Cat. rating and likely a danger connected to a charger while making measurements...
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https://youtu.be/UrfKr-9Cm8M (https://youtu.be/UrfKr-9Cm8M)
This is the ZOYI ZT-5566 version (Original OEM) It's surprisingly not a bad (desk/bench) multimeter!
Definitely a niche product but it's actually quite useable (and accurate!) .
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if they publish this earlier, i will be interested but... i already have Aneng Q1 in quite similar form... :--
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/bench-dmm-from-portable-conversion-(aneng-q1-for-$50-all)/?action=dlattach;attach=771357;image)
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I'd assume you can power it indefinitely through the USB port used for charging the 18650s. I think it's kind of neat. I could see it in a compact lab where you don't have a lot of space.
They probably could have added handy 18650 charger to the features list. :D
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Come on, it wasn't that cryptic mate ;D (I think.. :o )
A talking meter with a 'suspect MIC product' sensor
Talking meters aren't new btw, I have a Tandy/Radio Shack DMM kicking around somewhere.. :-//
worked great for a short while till the flimsy stranded 'press to talk' probe cable died.
hmm, will have to get on to that, it was great getting the readings 'read out' without looking at the meter :clap:
Sure, but how about one that listens? Alexa, switch to DC voltage. Alexa, hold that value.
I'd like to see that! I wouldn't buy it, just like to see it. :-DD
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HEY from the ZT-5566 review, the DMM portion has a 5V DC-DC converter and two opto-couplers - it's isolated. DTM0660L serial data output pin 20 goes to unpopulated Q16 (Q15/Q14 seem to be a DNP protective clamp).
This means there is serial data communication between the Bluetooth and DMM IC... Possibly some delay for ANENG/ZOYI in getting an app finished?
If this did have a microphone... you could use it to hands-free answer your cell phone. That seems weird.
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I just bought one. I'm super excited!! I could care less about the bluetooth speaker, but I just love how sexy this thing looks. Will look amazing on my bench! Specs are good enough for just general purpose daily dicking around. I also like to collect unusual stuff, so this is perfect for me.
BUT!!!....
I didn't get the batteries because in the photo they looked like AA's, but are actually 18650's. Can anyone tell me do I need the flat top or button top style to fit in this meter??
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I didn't get the batteries because in the photo they looked like AA's, but are actually 18650's. Can anyone tell me do I need the flat top or button top style to fit in this meter??
You need button top LiIon 18650. Mine arrived just 2 weeks ago and I like it a lot. It's a great DMM and can measure resistance up to 200M, which is pretty amazing. It is also very fast in auto ranging.
HEY from the ZT-5566 review, the DMM portion has a 5V DC-DC converter and two opto-couplers - it's isolated. DTM0660L serial data output pin 20 goes to unpopulated Q16 (Q15/Q14 seem to be a DNP protective clamp).
This means there is serial data communication between the Bluetooth and DMM IC... Possibly some delay for ANENG/ZOYI in getting an app finished?
Once the meter goes standby, the clock is shown on the main display that is normally used for the multimeter. So I recon the clock uses the DTM as a display.
On the box the meter came in, there are two versions: with and without an APP. Mine is de without, but I think there might be a new version coming out later that has the APP connectivity.
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Also got the device a few days ago.
Here are some pictures of the PCB behind the front:
https://imgur.com/a/3WcAQlb
I was a little disappointed, since I was hoping for a known µC, but the two big ICs don't have any markings.
I bought this as a hobbyist simply because for the big display and the "form factor". The fact, that the power switch is on the backside is annoying, especially since there seems no real standby mode (the clock is always shown). Maybe I will relocate the switch in the future. The battery will charge even when the device is turned off - which is nice. The leads of the probes are actually really nice and soft, although they look the same as other, cheaper ones, they actually seem to have used silicone or a good quality PVC for the insulation.
The meter itself seems absolutely fine for a non-professional.
Also a little bit annoying is the fact, that the voltage value on idle changes all the time which is really disturbing because of the large numbers. As a solution I've switched to capacitance mode which stays on zero most of the time. ;-)
@ResistorRob: I'm using flat top (+) 18650s (Panasonic) and they work. The positive contact pad inside the battery holder is elevated in the center.
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The big ICs are just LCD segment drivers, apparently with serial inputs. The BT / audio IC is a Jie Li AC6921, running under the family designation AC692N.
Apparently, there's no datasheet available.
But I managed to find the following schematic:
(http://static.docx88.com/?id=9a828da2988fcc22bcd126fff705cc1755275fb9&img=1_0_0_1188_918&m=6f)
As it seems, hardware-wise it shouldn't be too difficult to get the FM radio function operational. The question is if it's possible to somehow integrate it into the firmware. Moreover, it would be great if there could be found a way to transfer the measurements via BT to a PC for data logging. Either there's a wide field open for hacking or maybe the manufacturer just left some options for an up-rated model...bad luck for the early adopters ;)
Edit: I attached some PNGs of a clearer version of the schematic that I found in a different place.
Edit2: Added two photos of the main PCB
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I opened mine up to see where pin 20 (P1.4) for the serial output goes. Following the trace and probing, it's connected to R29, which sadly is a 100k pullup resistor, not a series resistor to the unpopulated Q16.
There is still a via, but I'm not quite adventurous enough to unscrew all of the front panel PCBs to see what's on the other side, so I'll hold off a bit on finding out where else it's connected to.
R29 is not a great place to solder to, but it beats soldering scraping soldermask or soldering directly to the QFP leads, so that seems like a viable path for getting at the serial output.
If I can track down my clip leads, I plan to probe the EEPROM to see if I can passively extract the configuration/calibration using sigrok. If I can do that, then I'll see if I can reconfigure it to enable the serial output feature ala Kerry Wong (http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/03/19/hacking-dtm0660l-based-multimeters/).
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Well, I probed the EEPROM, dumped the contents, disabled the write protect, and updated the configuration byte at 0xFA from its initial value of 0x00 to 0x02.
For reference, I added external pullup resistors to the I2C bus while holding the multimeter chip in reset by grounding the reset test point. When writing, I also added a pulldown resistor to ground the active-high write-protect pin.
Here's my original config dump:
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 00 BE 03
10 17 20 4E 52 03 6E 50 64 4B 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF
F3 98 55 83 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
4E 02 09 18 01 09 50 01 0B B5 17 0A 58 FF 09 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
00 80 BE 7E 21 8C 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
86 7F 04 80 0A 00 91 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
80 81 00 80 35 82 E0 7C 18 01 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 16 00 10 00 0C 00 07 17 01 12 03
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 11 00 0D 00 0A 00 02 00 04
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 13 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 00 00
0D 00 02 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 03 10
2C 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 03 05 0D 00 02 20
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A 0F 00 00 00 00 00 00
Unfortunately even after updating the config at address 0xFA, it doesn't seem to output anything on PT1.4 (as probed on the not-vcc-side of R29). I'm not entirely surprised, since I never observed the multimeter reading from address 0xFA.
Here's a dump of the read operations I saw (this includes turning it on, pushing a bunch of front-panel buttons, then hard power cycling it):
(addr=F8, 2 bytes): 5A 0F
(addr=12, 2 bytes): 20 4E
(addr=33, 12 bytes): 18 01 09 50 01 0B B5 17 0A 58 FF 09
(addr=20, 4 bytes): F3 98 55 83
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=50, 6 bytes): 00 80 BE 7E 21 8C
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=EA, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=EA, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=60, 8 bytes): 86 7F 04 80 0A 00 91 2A
(addr=70, 12 bytes): 80 81 00 80 35 82 E0 7C 18 01 00 00
(addr=D0, 2 bytes): 2C 80
(addr=D2, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=60, 2 bytes): 86 7F
(addr=D4, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=D6, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=60, 8 bytes): 86 7F 04 80 0A 00 91 2A
(addr=70, 12 bytes): 80 81 00 80 35 82 E0 7C 18 01 00 00
(addr=60, 8 bytes): 86 7F 04 80 0A 00 91 2A
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=12, 2 bytes): 20 4E
(addr=33, 12 bytes): 18 01 09 50 01 0B B5 17 0A 58 FF 09
(addr=20, 4 bytes): F3 98 55 83
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=50, 6 bytes): 00 80 BE 7E 21 8C
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=EA, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=12, 2 bytes): 20 4E
(addr=33, 12 bytes): 18 01 09 50 01 0B B5 17 0A 58 FF 09
(addr=20, 4 bytes): F3 98 55 83
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=50, 6 bytes): 00 80 BE 7E 21 8C
(addr=40, 14 bytes): 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
(addr=EA, 2 bytes): 00 80
(addr=2A, 6 bytes): 00 80 BB 7E 0F 8C
I noticed that it does read from address 0x33 and 0x72, which are not documented in the datasheet that Kerry Wong translated. Perhaps there's some new functionality, or the meter is simply storing additional configuration in unused space in the EEPROM.
It's also possible that I need to press a different button to actually trigger the check for the REL / RS232 functionality, since a lot of config seems to be read on-the-fly.
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Mine arrived today. It is on CNY sale at Bangood for about $61 US. I couldn't resist the absurdity.
It needs to be plugged into a charger to start the first time, even with fully charged batteries. After that it is portable.
The power switch is in the back :palm:
No CAT rating anywhere.
So far it is a good bench DMM for the price. I've only been using it for about 10 minutes.
2.5000VDC reference read as 2.500V
The BT speakers are a complete fail. The audio is unlistenable. Dropouts and glitches every few seconds. :'(
I suppose I can hope for a firmware update. Not holding my breath.
Update: Upgrading my Nokia 7 Plus from Android Pie to Android 10 fixed the bluetooth audio issue.
Clock works and is easy to set.
Thermometer appears to be working. I'll check accuracy next week.
(https://i.imgur.com/HwAjIct.jpg)
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I did not have problems with the BT audio. I have not encountered glitches or dropouts even when my phone was some meters away from the DMM. The sound is actually pretty good and its stereo unlike a lot of other BT speakers and there is also some bass to it. The AN888S is BT 5.0 same as my Galaxy S8.
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I did not have problems with the BT audio. I have not encountered glitches or dropouts even when my phone was some meters away from the DMM. The sound is actually pretty good and its stereo unlike a lot of other BT speakers and there is also some bass to it. The AN888S is BT 5.0 same as my Galaxy S8.
Same observation with mine. Phone is a (pretty much beaten up... ;)) Elephone P6. No dropouts and quite acceptable sound. The speaker may underemphasize the lower mids a little but that can be compensated for with the equalizer function of the player. Since I'll anyway never use the meter in a remote location, it will stay connected to an USB wall wart so the LiIon battery's sole purpose will be to buffer the RTC in case mains power drops out (almost unheard of in my part of the woods...). I guess I could as well leave them out. Otherwise, it's quite an accurate entry level bench meter with a few additional gimmicks.
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Time to troubleshoot.
I tested with a Nokia 7 Plus running Android 9 (Pie). Pretty much plain vanilla android with no mods or developer settings. The phone is supposed to be BlueTooth 5. Audio from my phone worked with several cars and a Canton sound bar.
I updated the phone to Android 10 yesterday. I'll try again and also try with Debbie's iPhone 7.
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Either there's a wide field open for hacking or maybe the manufacturer just left some options for an up-rated model...bad luck for the early adopters ;)
The outer box has check boxes for two versions. One with an app and one without. I haven't seen the app version for sale anywhere. Marketing must be expecting an up-rated model at some point.
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They say it has BT serial capability, pin 20 goes to R29 and a via. "Try to modify data at address 0xFA; to 0xCE, to start uart and send ttl data"
"The APP is called Dianniu, but this first one is a try. It is released in advance, the software is not perfect, and it is estimated that it can be upgraded in the future. Multiple Bluetooth meters can be jointly tested, remotely operated, etc." quote from https://www.mydigit.cn/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=102970 (https://www.mydigit.cn/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=102970) there is a WeChat qcode.
From the review:
ZT-5566 Bluetooth speaker desktop digital multimeter is an automatic range multifunctional digital multimeter with 9999 counts. The meter is powered by lithium battery, true RMS measurement, LCD display, backlight brightness is adjustable, and it also has clock, alarm clock, Bluetooth audio, ambient temperature display function. See the disassembly: https://www.mydigit.cn/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=101189 (https://www.mydigit.cn/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=101189)
The current is 30uA after shutdown, it is estimated to maintain the clock supply, and the switch will not affect the time; the current is 71mA after startup, and 52mA after Bluetooth is connected to the device; the screen brightness is adjusted six levels ---: level 1 (51mA backlight off) level 2 (55mA ) Level 3 (63mA) Level 4 (71mA) Level 5 (81mA) Level 6 (102mA), the default brightness at power-on is Level 4, the above is the test of the Bluetooth unconnected device; the current of the music is dynamically changed, and the maximum volume current is 122mA; When the button is not operated for 15 minutes, it automatically enters the standby mode (47mA). At this time, the main display shows time, and the secondary display shows information such as ambient temperature and battery power. If Bluetooth has been connected before, you can continue to connect. If you quit the connection or did not connect before, you cannot connect again.
Open circuit output voltage is 3.24V, overflow voltage is 3.000V, drive current is 1.75mA; resistance function: AUTO open circuit voltage is 0.5V, manual kΩ-Ω open circuit voltage is 0.9-1.0V, short-circuit current is 0.3uA to 422uA, the measurement speed is average; The meter has continuous beeps (DC gear cycle 5s, AC gear cycle 8s) in the current gear state."
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I installed the Android test app from the QR code on my throwaway test phone. It did not detect my multimeter during scanning. It also doesn't show up at all in my BLE scanner app, so I'm inclined to believe that the non-app version of the multimeter that is currently available for sale is Bluetooth classic only.
I think unless someone happens to know how to modify the OTP memory on the DTM0660L, anyone interested in getting data from the meter will have to wait for the app-enabled model.
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Upgrading my phone to Android 10 fixed the bluetooth audio issue.
Now that it works, sound quality is about what I expected. Not great but ok for casual listening. The internal speakers in my 27" iMac sound better. The Apple mids and highs are clearer. The AN-888S has more mid-bass but it sounds boomy and exaggerated. Apple sounds more natural, but lacking any lows.
The manual advises against listening to music when making mV measurements. I haven't done any tests, but will avoid listening to music when making critical measurements. On the plus side the speaker is stereo and there are no annoying rattles.
The AN-888 goes into sleep mode after a period of non-use. It beeps a few times, then the main display changes to time and the smaller display changes to temperature. BT audio works when the meter is in sleep mode.
(https://i.imgur.com/Z80cj7I.jpg)
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Gotta get one for the living room... it's really stylish and you never know when you might need a quick capacitance measurement!
[attachimg=1]
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I got mine yesterday. The bluetooth audio worked perfectly and the voltage had zero drift at zero volts, so I haven't had any problems other people have experienced. I might buy a second one to try hacking, because I don't want to brick my only one. I love the color! It looks better in person than in the photos. The red looks just like the Craftsman reboot red... very vibrant. In my humble opinion this is by far the best desktop dmm under $100 anywhere on earth. Now I just need to get a new oscilloscope, lol.
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...has more mid-bass but it sounds boomy and exaggerated.
So ... just like every piece of consumer audio gear ever made since 1983. :popcorn:
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I'm currently thinking about a way to get the or a power switch to the front. Unfortunately the whole front is covered by PCBs in one way or another. Thought of putting it on top, but there is only space for switches I wouldn't trust to work for very long. The only thing easy to do is putting one on the top of the backside instead having to reach down. But that doesn't really seems worth the effort. Well, I could throw out the speaker part... not gonna use it anyway...
I added some more pictures of the PCB in the back (mostly battery protection and balancing) and the speaker box:
https://imgur.com/a/3WcAQlb
EDIT: If I remove the two 4 Ohm speakers (the black box) the 4-pin header on the PCB will stay open/empty. Could this be an issue? Should I maybe put something else on there? If I find a better solution in the future, I still could put them back in.
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I check-tested the temperature display against a UK made spirt in glass thermometer.
Thermometer reads 21.5C AN-888S 21C. It works.
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Wow Neo2001, looks like you could hide money inside the AN888S, it would probably take one of those $100,000 'bricks' of 1000 x $100 bills :D
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I found a way to place a small switch on the front. It turned out to be more space between PCB and the front panel then I was expecting. Still, the nameplate had to go -- a small price to pay for more convenience.
Even put a piece of aluminum in its place to make it look more classy. 8)
I was actually thinking of maybe designing and printing a new backside case since the device would become a lot smaller without the speaker box. But then again I would need some kind of stand to keep it stable and upright, which the big case already provides.
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banggood says AN888S has 19999 counts. but it has dtm0660l chip. how is it possible?!
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As per the (translated) datasheet of the DTM0660 (http://www.kerrywong.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/DTM0660DataSheet.pdf), this "Multimeter Microcontroller" contains a 14 bit ADC, running at > 12kSa/s. This easily permits some averaging to increase the effective resolution. Since the DTM0660 only provides outputs for up to four LCD digits, the internal LCD driver isn't used. Instead, the display data is serially transferred to a separate LCD driver chip (of which are two present in the AN-888S, one for the meter display and another for the clock/temp display). Since the DTM0660 is basically just a microcontroller, it can be programmed to provide 4.5 digits resolution even though it cannot directly display it. In other, budgetary (hand-held) multimeters, the engineers have chosen the same solution with the DTM0660.
I guess that this chipset is just so inexpensive that it makes sense for the manufacturers to use it that way instead a more sophisticated single-chip solution.
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They must be doing something-- After all 14-bit is 0 to 16,383 or about +/- 8191 Even 9999 count is out of range.
I wonder if there is some sort of pre-scaler along with signal averaging. :-// Whatever they did, it appears to work.
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They must be doing something-- After all 14-bit is 0 to 16,383 or about +/- 8191
I don't think negative voltage measurements work the way you think they do. :popcorn:
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How does it work? I know very little about DMM chips and not enough about digital signal processing.
'd be surprised if the AN-888S isn't doing averaging. Other than that, I can guess, but my guess is probably wrong.
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How does it work? I know very little about DMM chips and not enough about digital signal processing.
For a negative voltage it probably swaps the inputs around.
Why waste a whole bit of your ADC?
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There's some kind of conspiracy with these DreamTech DMM IC's. I think DreamTech just writes the OTP firmware for the Hycon H08 mixed-signal MCU i.e. HY12P65
The DTM0660L seems to be good for 6000 counts but people change that setting in EEPROM to get 9999 counts and sometimes it works, other times it's noisy and not so linear.
This multimeter is supposed to be 19,999 counts 4-1/2 digits which I think is the DTM1106EN (even though a teardown pic shows DTM0660L) :-//
I suspect it's just clever firmware to mask A/D noise and get more counts, this was evident on the AN8008 achieving uV digits this way.
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Can't wait for Dave Jones' review of this monstrosity. Why does this exist?
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When I use the Bluetooth Audio function, I get a consistent tone/noise. Good thing that I don't use this function. Still it's a little bit disappointing, since I have other Bluetooth speakers which don't make such noises at all.
I still think the basic idea of combining a multimeter, a speaker and a radio clock makes no sense at all - especially battery powered. The device is supposed to be used running off the batteries (according to the manual and the sticker on the back). But who wants to charge a "radio" clock and multimeter every few days or maybe once a week?
I still like it for the multimeter part. Maybe there will be more low cost benchtop multimeters in the future...
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Switch the brightness of the backlight to maximum, and the noise is away. Seems the noise is coming from the PWM, to bad it switches back to backlight medium after power down.
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Can't wait for Dave Jones' review of this monstrosity. Why does this exist?
Ignoring the speaker, this is a darn good bench DMM for $62 plus batteries. The display is large, bright and easy to read. The auto ranging is fast. So is the continuity beeper. I can't think of anything else that comes close
Inexpensive Bench Autorange DMM list:
AN-888S 19999 Count $62
VICI VC8145 80,000 Count $150.
Mastech MS-8040 22000 Count $175
Uni-T UT803 6,000 Count $200 (May have genuine CAT II rating)
Above prices are direct from China and may be subject to import taxes.
AIM TTi 1604 40,000 Count 600V CAT II £257 including VAT.
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Can't wait for Dave Jones' review of this monstrosity. Why does this exist?
Ignoring the speaker, this is a darn good bench DMM for $62 plus batteries.
Can it run without batteries?
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Can it run without batteries?
Yes, it will run without batteries. I just checked.
The manual says to disconnect the charger before measuring high voltages.
Standard Version without batteries is now $59.99 on flash sale This includes free shipping to the UK. Warning of delays due to CNY holiday.
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I made a YouTube video showing the AN-888S in operation.
https://youtu.be/_a4tyW9VWi0
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Is the USB port isolated from the test leads? I could see awful things happen if not and the meter is used while charging...
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:-//
I should check. I don't use the meter when it is charging.
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I just spent $34 to get red & black batteries to match the meter, lol
I have 2 questions. (I did read manual first)
1. Will the batteries charge with the power off?
2. Is there anyway to see how much of a charge the battery has while it's charging?
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I'll try and find my USB power meter and take some measurements. That should answer question 1.
I'll run mine down a bit and see what the battery gauge does on charging....
I'll do an unscientific run time test. I'm using Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh because they are red ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/2wj6Ft6l.jpg) (https://imgur.com/2wj6Ft6)
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I've got mine a week ago. Like it very much for the meter part and the large display.
But I'm disappointed about the clock, after one week more than 5 minutes behind time – there I've expected some more precision.
The power consumption in clock mode seems high. With Samsung 18650 25R (2500 mAh) and fully charged it lasts only 3 days before the low battery alarm signal pops in.
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After 26 days the clock on mine gained ~30-40 seconds.
100ppm crystal is 8.64 seconds per day.
20ppm crystal is 1.73 seconds per day.
Mine is within spec for a 20ppm crystal but that could just be luck.
I'm doing a battery life check. After 7 hours of mixed use the battery gauge still has all the segments on. I'm trying to keep the meter awake. I even played music for about 30 minutes. The speaker is awful. I'm using a 3500mAh Sanyo batteries.
variation = (f * ppm) / 10^6
https://www.best-microcontroller-projects.com/ppm.html (https://www.best-microcontroller-projects.com/ppm.html)
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I found a bug in the clock. Setting the time does not reset the second count. :-DD
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Which clock mode? For me it seems that after the clock is transferred from the circle display to the main display, so when the meter is in standby, the clock is less accurate. But if the meter is kept active, during measurement, the circle clock is accurate.
Also the clock in my meter is accurate when the meter is switched off. After powering up, the time is consistent.
So it seems that clock might run a bit slow only in the standby mode, where the clock digits are presented on the main display.
Did not get a response from neo2001 if his unit is silent, so no noise, after setting the display brightness to maximum while using the speaker function.
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Hello,
just received AN888S, works nicely.
I noticed when measuring resistance, shorting the probes starts with about 0.15 Ohms, but in a few seconds decrease to 0.001-0.002.
Anyone knows how is this done? It seems no need to use REL to subtract probes resistance when measuring very low resistance.
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I have 2 questions. (I did read manual first)
1. Will the batteries charge with the power off?
2. Is there anyway to see how much of a charge the battery has while it's charging?
1 Yes.
2. I don't think so. You can hook an in-line usb power monitor and watch the display but that isn't particularly useful. You can see the charge rate taper off when the cells are close to full.
The internal charger draws about 650mA when the DMM is "off". Turning on the DMM adds another 60mA or so.
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How is your AN888S when measuring capacitors?
On the nF range mine is OK, 0.7% tolerance for a 10nF.
When measuring 4.7 uF tolerance is about 7% (specs 5%), but for 1000 uF tolerance is 14%!
I have compared with a Hameg HM8118 RLC meter, measuring at 1kHz.
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Hello!
Some info on my ZT-5566 (aka AN888S aka RM123).
Here goes its factory EEPROM:
Lo- 00─01─02─03─04─05─06─07 ─08─09─0A─0B─0C─0D─0E─0F
Hi. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
00: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 00 BE 03
10: 10 17 20 4E 52 03 6E 50 64 4B 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF
20: 10 98 4F 83 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 B7 7E D5 8B
30: 4E 02 09 FF 03 09 41 01 0B 28 16 0A 80 01 0A 00
40: 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
50: 00 80 B5 7E D4 8B 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
60: 73 7F 1A 80 0A 00 A8 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
70: BF 80 00 80 F2 81 E0 7C 18 01 00 00 00 00 00 00
80: 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 10 00 0C 00 07 17 01 12 03
90: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 11 00 0D 00 0A 00 02 00 04
A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 13 00 00
B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 00 00
C0: 0D 00 02 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 03 10
D0: 0C 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 03 05 0D 00 02 20
E0: 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
F0: 00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A 0F 00 00 00 00 00 00
The value at 0xF9 is auto-off timeout, in minutes. I set it to 0x3F, now it stays on for 1 hour.
If you power-on the unit (button at the back) while depressed "REL" button, it will stay ON forever, but will beep every [ timeout ].
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Does anyone have the Alarm function of the clock working? I mean I can set the alarm time, but it will never beep, tried both meter on and meter off conditions.
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It's a shame to see bad usability decisions on devices that look so good. I confess that I bought this multimeter and it stood forgot on the shelf until last week. Now that I've (finally) cleaned up my lab, I've started to put it to use. But having to take the unit out in order to access the power button, is something that started to get to my nerves. So, one fine day, a new button appeared on the front of the unit! ;)
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So, one fine day, a new button appeared on the front of the unit! ;)
Very neat/tidy! :-+
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What is the behavior of this multimeter when giving it USB power?
I would like to place it on my bench and turn on with all the other devices by pressing one power button.
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Measuring high voltage or line-connected items is not recommened when it is plugged into a charger.
I've noticed noise on the mV scales too. Other than that it works when plugged in.
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I've noticed noise on the mV scales too. Other than that it works when plugged in.
Maybe the supplied charger is noisy. Have you tried any others?
I guess it's easy to unplug it for measuring low signals, just don't forget.
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>Measuring high voltage or line-connected items is not recommened when it is plugged into a charger.
It does indeed say that on the data sheet, however tear downs have shows the charging input isolated from the measurement circuitry, so take from that what you will.
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>Measuring high voltage or line-connected items is not recommened when it is plugged into a charger.
It does indeed say that on the data sheet, however tear downs have shows the charging input isolated from the measurement circuitry, so take from that what you will.
Most mains transformers will have a Y-capacitor in them so this warning isn't Aneng-specific or any sort of design defect, it applies to just about everything when you want to measure "high voltage".
At least they took the trouble to warn you...
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There is an isolating SIP DC-DC converter feeding the multimeter-side power as well as two opto-couplers for the (unused) serial data to BT. On the USB side, both batteries (one for the BT audio/alarm clock, other for DMM I think), and the BT audio/clock circuit.
Although, connecting to a USB charger while using the multimeter is not a good idea for noise/Y-cap issues and isolation voltage. These multimeters (and DC-DC etc.) have no safety approvals and we don't know what isolation voltage is achieved. A bad PCB trace can ruin the best intentions.
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I've been tempted to buy a bench meter for a while now. My main meter is a Habotest HT118A, and while it is more than good enough for me, I find it annoying that it turns itself off after ~15 minutes.
My question for the owners of the ANENG AN888S is thus this: does the meter stay on indefinitely? Does it make a difference if it's running off of USB or batteries?
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My question for the owners of the ANENG AN888S is thus this: does the meter stay on indefinitely? Does it make a difference if it's running off of USB or batteries?
No, it goes to sleep. The display changes to showing the time and temperature when it is "asleep" Easy to wake up from sleep.
The USB power supply adds mV level noise. Very much a problem if you are measuring small signals.
Aneng say not to use with AC line power devices when it is connected to the charger.
I've only used mine on battery. Overall, this is more of an interesting toy then a useful instrument. I bought mine for the novelty.
It is fine for things like checking batteries, diodes, resistors out of circuit. Mine is well within spec.
It falls down trying to measure anything complex like AC ripple on a DC power supply. It read back garbage when I tried to check a 300 volt DC supply in a test instrument I was repairing. My ancient Beckman 310 gave me a rock steady ~300V while the AN-888S was jumping all over the place.
If you want a fun toy, buy it. Otherwise, save your money for something better. You can get a Brymen BM-235 for not much more.
https://telonic.co.uk/product/brymen-bm235-professional-multimeter-cat-ii-1kv-cat-iii-600v/
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No, it goes to sleep.
Does it beep annoyingly when it does it?
I wouldn't mind things going to sleep if they're easy to wake up but all the beeping is madness.
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It does not beep when it goes to sleep. It might beep when it wakes up.
If you like, I can check it when I get home from work. (14:53 at the moment. I'm in the UK)
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Maybe this Owon is a better buy:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002652024872.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002652024872.html)
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/owon-xdm1041-the-unknown-multimeter/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/owon-xdm1041-the-unknown-multimeter/)
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if they publish this earlier, i will be interested but... i already have Aneng Q1 in quite similar form... :--
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/bench-dmm-from-portable-conversion-(aneng-q1-for-$50-all)/?action=dlattach;attach=771357;image)
|O |O outch
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Maybe this Owon is a better buy:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/owon-xdm1041-the-unknown-multimeter/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/owon-xdm1041-the-unknown-multimeter/)
Maybe. Need to get beyond the specs and see how useful it is. The same money will get a decent and very useful handheld from Brymen or others.
Used AimTTi bench meters come up on eBay at reasonable prices. I've come close to buying one for ~£200 a few times now.
New there is the Rigol DM3058E and something from Siglent for about the same price but now we are well into the £350 price band, which is about £300 more than I paid for my AN888S.
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Maybe. Need to get beyond the specs and see how useful it is.
I own one, and there ok, biggest issue is the auto range is s l o w so tend not to bother and instead set the range manually.
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I was pretty skeptical about this, but they won me over when they promised 'High Quality Sound Subwoofer', for 'Strong bass sound field'.
Not sure how that jives with the 100hz-18khz freq response... :P
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Slow autoranging can be due to noisy power for the DMM IC, which is powered off the DC-DC converter and LDO. I would scope the VDD rail and see how noisy it is. Could upsize C38 (bulk cap for the LDO output), C32 etc.
How loud did you want Vivaldi, Beethoven anyway ;) It's got some audio engineering - decent speakers/enclosure and a passive radiator. HT8697 (https://www.heroic.com.cn/en/product/audio/audio2/ht8697-117.html) Class-D amp running off 2s 18650 for ~5W.
Did they get the Bluetooth multimeter (not audio) software going? They should open-source the BT protocol, make it work with Sigrok. (https://sigrok.org/wiki/Supported_hardware#Multimeters) That would be better because you're paying for that hardware anyway.
pic from https://chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/aneng-an888s-desktop-multimeter-tested.html (https://chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/aneng-an888s-desktop-multimeter-tested.html) it's not a serious review IMHO.
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It does not beep when it goes to sleep. It might beep when it wakes up.
If you like, I can check it when I get home from work. (14:53 at the moment. I'm in the UK)
I just tested it.
It beeps 3 times after sitting idle for about 12 minutes. Three minutes later it emits one long beep and goes to "sleep". In sleep mode the main display shows the time and the smaller display shows the temperature and battery state of charge.
Pressing any button wakes up the meter. It makes a single beep when it wakes up.
It beeps even with the volume set to zero. The volume is only for BlueTooth audio.
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Not sure how that jives with the 100hz-18khz freq response... :P
The sound quality is terrible. 100Hz? Maybe, but with audible distortion. 18kHz? :-DD Not that it matters. I'm 62 and can't hear 18kHz anymore.
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I just tested it.
It beeps 3 times after sitting idle for about 12 minutes. Three minutes later it emits one long beep and goes to "sleep". In sleep mode the main display shows the time and the smaller display shows the temperature and battery state of charge.
Pressing any button wakes up the meter. It makes a single beep when it wakes up.
It beeps even with the volume set to zero. The volume is only for BlueTooth audio.
Thank you very much, that is valuable info.
You mention sitting idle. Does the "shutdown timer" reset when taking measurements? My handheld Habotest goes to sleep after 15 minutes regardless of if it is being used or not - very frustrating! Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I don't think so.
If the meter only goes to sleep when not in use, then I think that this might be the meter for me.
I saw a review of the AN888S on YouTube (this one (https://youtu.be/YIzjJWqBBe8), around 4:20 in) where the reviewer mention running the meter for 30+ minutes on the USB power supply. If it is not to much to ask, could you please see if that is correct?
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I saw a review of the AN888S on YouTube (this one (https://youtu.be/YIzjJWqBBe8), around 4:20 in) where the reviewer mention running the meter for 30+ minutes on the USB power supply. If it is not to much to ask, could you please see if that is correct?
No problem.
That video is showing what the meter is best for: checking components out of circuit. The display is huge, bright and easy to read. Autoranging is fairly fast. The continuity tester / beeper is pretty good too.
I disagree about the speakers though.
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On charge or not does not change the sleep behaviour. The meter goes to 'sleep' if it is idle or left doing the same thing. I set to measure diode drop and clipped it to an LED. It went to sleep.
I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the diode and it still went to sleep. You have to push a button to stop it from going to sleep. The sleep mode would be better called 'clock mode'. It let it go to 'sleep' and the LED connected to the leads stayed lit! Power consumption stayed at 0.7A too. :-DD
--- I didn't try making it autorange. I've already been at this for 45 minutes :)
I'm sorry but if you need a real bench meter you are going to have to spend more money.
Maybe a used Aim-TTi 1705 or a new Siglent SDM3045X. I don't have either of them so can't give a first hand recommendation. I can't justify paying £200-£400 for a bench meter.
I use a Brymen BM-789 most of the time. It cost me about £145. My other meters are toys or antiques. I've had a Beckman 310 since the late 1980s. It still works and is still in spec! I keep it in my desk at work, just in case.
I've also got a Racal 5100 with a dead range select PROM. --> https://youtu.be/DVk_WE1lBbk
One of these days I'll get around to finishing the PROM programmer for it and get it back up and running.
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I disagree about the speakers though.
You think they're better or worse?
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I disagree about the speakers though.
You think they're better or worse?
Worse. They work but the sound quality is pretty bad. I've got a low tolerance for bad audio.
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On charge or not does not change the sleep behaviour. The meter goes to 'sleep' if it is idle or left doing the same thing. I had it set to measure diode drop and clipped it to an LED. It went to sleep.
I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the diode and it still went to sleep. You have to push a button to stop it from going to sleep. The sleep mode would be better called 'clock mode'. It let it go to 'sleep' and the LED connected to the leads stayed lit! Power consumption stayed at 0.7A too. :-DD
--- I didn't try making it autorange. I've already been at this for 45 minutes :)
I'm sorry but if you need a real bench meter you are going to have to spend more money.
Maybe a used Aim-TTi 1705 or a new Siglent SDM3045X -- I don't have either of them so can't give a first hand recommendation. I can't justify paying £200-£400 for a bench meter.
I use a Brymen BM-789 most of the time. It cost me about £145. My other meters are toys or antiques. I've had a Beckman 310 since the late 1980s. It still works and is still in spec! I keep it in my desk at work, just in case.
I've also got a Racal 5100 with a dead range select PROM. --> https://youtu.be/DVk_WE1lBbk
One of these days I'll get around to finishing the PROM programmer for it and get it back up and running.
Thank you so so much! I really appreciate it.
I only need the meter for easy hobby tinkering. I don't actually need a bench meter at all, but the form factor appeal to me.
The price for the Aneng is already stretching what I can realistically justify for my needs, but I might very well be better off saving for a bit instead.
Again, thank you.
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I seem to like it, in a weird way. I don't know why. I don't want to.
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It beeps even with the volume set to zero. The volume is only for BlueTooth audio.
Does it beep through the speakers?
What about continuity test? Is that through the speakers?
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I seem to like it, in a weird way. I don't know why. I don't want to.
I understand. I had to have one.
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It beeps even with the volume set to zero. The volume is only for BlueTooth audio.
Does it beep through the speakers?
What about continuity test? Is that through the speakers?
I think so but I've never bothered to check. I haven't taken mine apart (what??) but there are teardowns on the 'net. Google should find them for you.
In other news there are several reasonbly prices Thurlby Thandar or Aim-TTi DMMs on eBay. 1604 1704, and a few 1905a.
The 1604 was "low cost" 40,000 count bench meter .08% basic accuracy from the LED era. Newer ones have Aim-TTi branding. Recently discontinued. Brand new ones were £257 when I bought my AN-888s.
The 1705 is a bit newer design "low cost" meter bench - LCD, dual display, 12,000 count .04% basic accuracy. Recenly discontinued.
The 1905a is old, mid '80s. maybe? 5 1/2 digits, .015% basic accuracy with a hidden menu for 6 1/2 digits. (no idea of the 6 1/2 is meaninful or just for fun)
I've got a bid snipe on one of them, but won't mind if someone outbids me. I don't need another DMM. :)
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Does it beep through the speakers?
What about continuity test? Is that through the speakers?
You might have found your answer by now, but in case that you haven't: the board have a piezo speaker that it uses for beeping and continuity.
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Hello!
Some info on my ZT-5566 (aka AN888S aka RM123).
Here goes its factory EEPROM:
The value at 0xF9 is auto-off timeout, in minutes. I set it to 0x3F, now it stays on for 1 hour.
If you power-on the unit (button at the back) while depressed "REL" button, it will stay ON forever, but will beep every [ timeout ].
I'm trying to change the auto power off on my ZT-5566 but don't have any success. No matter what value I change 0xF9 to it still beeps and turns off after 15 minutes! Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?
Here is my factory dump:
Lo- 00─01─02─03─04─05─06─07 ─08─09─0A─0B─0C─0D─0E─0F
00: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 00 BE 03
10: 10 17 20 4E 52 03 6E 50 64 4B 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF
20: 11 9B 0E 7E 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 98 7E B7 8D
30: 4E 02 09 4E 02 09 77 FD 0A 9A 19 0A 00 00 0A 00
40: 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
50: 00 80 9D 7E D8 8D 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
60: 6F 7F 00 80 0A 00 05 2C 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
70: 62 80 00 80 4D 88 E0 7C 18 01 00 00 00 00 00 00
80: 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 10 00 0C 00 07 17 01 12 03
90: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 11 00 0D 00 0A 00 02 00 04
A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 13 00 00
B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 00 00
C0: 0D 00 02 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 03 10
D0: E2 7F 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 03 05 0D 00 02 20
E0: 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 24 80 0C 80 A0 7F
F0: 00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF 77 0F 00 00 00 00 00 00
I have also tried changing 0xFB as per Kerry Wongs translated datasheet for the DTM0660L chip, but that only result in "ERRO".
By the way, I was surprised to see that my meter don't have the DTM0660L chip, it's got the DM1109EN instead. And I assume that the chances of finding the datasheet for that chip is more or less hopeless...
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My meter stopped displaying the clock on the big screen when it goes to sleep. The big screen just goes out and the clock stays on the small screen. Has anyone encountered this behavior?
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The big ICs are just LCD segment drivers, apparently with serial inputs. The BT / audio IC is a Jie Li AC6921, running under the family designation AC692N.
Apparently, there's no datasheet available.
But I managed to find the following schematic:
(http://static.docx88.com/?id=9a828da2988fcc22bcd126fff705cc1755275fb9&img=1_0_0_1188_918&m=6f)
As it seems, hardware-wise it shouldn't be too difficult to get the FM radio function operational. The question is if it's possible to somehow integrate it into the firmware. Moreover, it would be great if there could be found a way to transfer the measurements via BT to a PC for data logging. Either there's a wide field open for hacking or maybe the manufacturer just left some options for an up-rated model...bad luck for the early adopters ;)
Edit: I attached some PNGs of a clearer version of the schematic that I found in a different place.
Edit2: Added two photos of the main PCB
Sorry for bump, but Tom thanks man for the uploaded pictures I had r18 blow on me and can't make out the value from charred resisters. This will give me bread crumbs. Thank you!