EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Thermal Imaging => Topic started by: Tonyt310 on December 14, 2019, 06:20:12 pm
-
I really hope someone can help. This has been a nightmare. My USB power port came undone and NOBODY will repair it because they dont want to be liable if it doesnt work. Company that makes the therm app is in Israel and they will not supply a part # . They said I have to send to Israel, I've tried doing that twice only to have Customs send it right back. It's a $2,000 camera app that actually works great for what I use it for. I give up after this. . Hoping someone has an answer and I will gladly pay that $300 for someone who knows what they are doing to fix it. It seems like an easy any cell phone guy fix it job. 5 people said No. One guy looked at it and said the port needs to be saudered upside down or something. It's all chinese to me I just want this camera app back.
Heres one of my thermal camera videos , hope you enjoy it. I enjoy nighttime thermal video making.
https://youtu.be/cbh98EdIYic
Tony Trutanich
-
I repaired such cases. If it's only connector which came off, it's an easy fix. If it came off together with pads from PCB, repairing it is annoying but can be done as well. I could repair it but you would need to declare low customs value, otherwise it will be taxed heavily on import. Not that is costs full value in it's state of paperweight. Post a clear photo of connector showing it's wider side (where it was soldered). That would give a clue how severe the damage is.
If PCB itself is not damaged, there should be plenty of people in US who could do the job.
-
This is the sad state that the World is coming to. People not willing to do challenging repairs :palm:
This is a job that any component level repair tech worth their salt should be able to tackle. If not, their skill set is lacking in some way. I would happily take on such a repair even if PCB damage was involved.
Sadly the rejection by the US customs is not unexpected. I had a thermal camera held by them for quite some time while they checked whether it was legal to export it. In your case, this is an example of how you can import a certain thermal camera into the USA but local regulations prohibit its export. You are fortunate that it was not confiscated. The only way to get it back to Israel is to lie on the customs declaration regarding the nature of the item or call it a “Pyrometer”. I do not recommend such action as it will lead to confiscation and trouble if you are caught !
I am so sorry that you are having trouble finding a tech willing to help you. Hopefully you have now come to the right place to find help though. There are some very skilled USA based techs on this forum. You can also advertise this job on the general forum as it is ‘just’ a soldering repair. If the damage to the PCB is so serious as to be unrepairable then there is a final option...... get the tech to carefully unplug the microbolometer from the PCB and send just the damaged PCB back to Israel and describe it honestly on paperwork as a “broken camera PCB for repair”. Do not mention thermal camera ! It us just an Israeli PCB containing non-controlled chips ! The manufacturer can then repair the PCB and return it to you to be reunited with the microbolomter and the camera casing. You would need to contact the manufacturer to agree this course of action of course and they could refuse. Any calibration data can be transferred onto a brand new PCB if such is required. Repairing a PCB is often more expensive than replacing it in simple PCB designs.
If the cameras calibration file is downloaded from the manufacturers servers, upon installation on a phone, then they could just sell you a new PCB that any decent tech could install for you. The most expensive parts of the camera are the microbolometer and the lens.
Good Luck
Fraser
-
By the way, the comment regarding the upside down connector is no problem. The USB micro connector comes in different case styles for different ways of mounting it on a PCB. It can come in a format designed to be soldered on the underside surface of the PCB but it also comes in a version that solders on the top of the PCB, whilst keeping the connector orientation the same. These ‘under PCB’ connectors are not rare and, if needed, can be purchased. The original connector needs to be inspected for damage but may be still fit for service so could be refitted. The new connector cost less than a $1.
I attach some pictures that show the different PCB mounting options for a micro USB socket :) I also include a large picture of your specific connector format.
Looking at your pictures, you have a top mount (reversed) micro USB connector.
Fraser
-
surely brooken and jennam cant fix that (sounds like broke into jahannam thing :P) but are you serious with $300? too many hands that can do that here, just pick your destination...
-
Just send it to Louis Rossmann
https://www.rossmanngroup.com (https://www.rossmanngroup.com)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl2mFZoRqjw_ELax4Yisf6w (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl2mFZoRqjw_ELax4Yisf6w)
He is in NewYork, and can repair almost anything. On top of that we might be able to watch the repair on youtube :-+
-
Just send it to Louis Rossmann
https://www.rossmanngroup.com (https://www.rossmanngroup.com)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl2mFZoRqjw_ELax4Yisf6w (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl2mFZoRqjw_ELax4Yisf6w)
He is in NewYork, and can repair almost anything. On top of that we might be able to watch the repair on youtube :-+
He fixed a Tektronix TDS694C once. That was pretty entertaining ^-^
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JH8izpJknq0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JH8izpJknq0)
-
So the housing does not support the USB connector at all?! That looks to be the case in the op's photo. So all they did was put a completely surface-mounted connector on the board & expose that to the stress of repeated plug & un-plug? Heck, even the "el-cheapo" Seek has a bulkhead USB connector. It looks like the Therm-App USB didn't even have a through-hole flange to hold it to the board. How inexcusable is that!? :palm:
After seeing that photo I ran a search of blog titles to see if there was a tear-down that would prove or disprove what I think I'm seeing & I didn't find any better photos, BUT I did find another topic
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/therm-app-usb-port-pad-repair/msg1481910/?PHPSESSID=c1l4o7c7ca4kj90cv2mr3lh891#msg1481910 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/therm-app-usb-port-pad-repair/msg1481910/?PHPSESSID=c1l4o7c7ca4kj90cv2mr3lh891#msg1481910)
where someone else had this same problem & he said the pads were lifted. He also was looking for someone to repair it but there are no replies.
You are in L.A.? Aren't there plenty of nerds nearby? I would think you must know someone nearby who could at least examine it and make an assessment regarding repair. Oops, I see somebody did make an assessment; okay.
-
It looks like the Therm-App USB didn't even have a through-hole flange to hold it to the board. How inexcusable is that!? :palm:
mini USB jack like that doesnt have through hole flanges. its only the 2 big surface mount pads on the side. children are the most creature that can easily destroy those..
-
It looks like the Therm-App USB didn't even have a through-hole flange to hold it to the board. How inexcusable is that!? :palm:
mini USB jack like that doesnt have through hole flanges. its only the 2 big surface mount pads on the side. children are the most creature that can easily destroy those..
Yes they do have through hole pins. Either 2 or 4. Using connectors without pins is asking for trouble. Connectors with pins barely ever get torn off. And it's micro USB, not mini.
-
I do own a microsoldering buisiness and if you think that thisn is really hard thing to solder, then you dont even want to see what I’m used to soldering under microscope. I would fix it in 30minutes, but the main problem is that I’m living in europe, Lithuania to be exact and I would love to help you, but I think it is not worth for you to send it to me... but if you need some help, drop me a pm.
P.S I would recomend to ditch that micro usb nonsense of a connector and use cable that ia soldered straight to pcb, I know I know, it’s kind of a ghetto solition, but it would include cable stress relief and would outlive you.
-
I would fix it in 30minutes
If it was torn off without pads. Otherwise it can be really annoying to fix. For example data line pads completely gone and they went directly into internal layers, and nothing exposed to attach bodge wires.
P.S I would recomend to ditch that micro usb nonsense of a connector and use cable that ia soldered straight to pcb, I know I know, it’s kind of a ghetto solition, but it would include cable stress relief and would outlive you.
Tell me a fairy tale how cable is supposed to miraculously hold there. And to what particularly will you attach that stress relief. Also I really doubt there is anything big enough on PCB to what you can solder relatively thick wires.
-
Two years ago I started to repair expensive equipment as a hobby but quickly dropped out of it.
While some repairs are really easy even at amateur level like myself, some repairs are really difficult (though I do have hot air soldering station, oscilloscope, signal gen, spectrum analyzer, etc.).
The main problem is this:
Exchanging a 50 cents part that requires four solder points, even small ones, is a piece of cake.
But if the PCB belongs to a 5000 Euro equipment, any error on that 50 cents part might cause a 5000 Euro loss!
And it often starts with a solder point, then suddenly too much heat and the PCB trace pops up, then you seek another point on that trace and suddenly you realize you screwed up.
Taking this risk for free, for friendship, for a small amount of money is simply not worth it. If you make the repair happen: yeah! You are a great guy for 5 minutes. If you screw things up, which happens in seconds, you are an a**hole for the rest of your life.
I guess this is the real reason why so many people refuse to do the job.
Regards,
Vitor
-
@Bicurico
Excellent assessment! I was going to say that fear of the unknown could be a factor but I think you "nailed it". Screwing up with your own stuff doesn't piss off anyone but yourself, but you accept that risk on your own. Anyone who asks for such a repair needs to understand and accept the risks.
@wrapper also good points. I had thought of the vias-in-pads situation as well. While I have drilled into pwb's on occasion to access internal traces and (more frequently) ground, it is all too easy to drill too far. And I was always drilling on boards I had the layout plots for.
As for the unknown aspect:
Isn't there a teardown of one of these somewhere? Or are they too expensive for anyone to want to break into?
Does anyone on here know what it takes to get one apart? Do they just snap together or are they screwed, glued or "fused" together?
I think the chances of the connector's pads still being intact on the board are near zero, so one can expect to have to attach any replacement connector to other exposed copper with wires and either epoxy the connector to the board or turn it into a makeshift bulkhead connector so that the stress in the future would be borne by the housing rather than the connector-to-pwb adhesion. I would try to do the latter, as I expect future stress on the connector with it epoxied to the board would cause more pwb damage.
-
The ThermApp is made from a two-part aluminium casting that's held together with four ordinary cross-head screws, one of which is covered by a 'warranty void' label.
There is an excellent set of teardown photos of the ThermApp found by EncryptedEddy.
Inside the Therm-App (pictures not mine).
(http://i.imgur.com/nX9t0pD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/C7Pa5B3.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZSJZuDS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aC6fUJM.jpg)
-
I have always taken some care with my ThermApp cameras to avoid stressing the connector for the reasons stated by the OP. Some time ago I found a 6" or so micro USB male to male curly lead on eBay and I've been using those exclusively - it basically means there is no stress on the sockets on the ThermApp or on the phone. Obviously if you bang the connector itself that's another matter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/5756/21981502160_398048f84a_o_d.jpg])
A right angle connector may help but I've never seen those on a curly cable (and of course they might not bend the 'right' way).
-
They put a lot of solder around that micro connector !
-
which is a good thing! thats is where mechanical load is supposed to be transferred to where it clings. if anything has to be broken, thats the first place its gonna be.
-
They put a lot of solder around that micro connector !
Yes - I expect that's to reduce the number of warranty claims for broken connectors ... :-+
I'm mildly surprised they didn't put in a whole load of vias to make it even more mechanically sound. It looks to me as though only L1 would have to be moved, at worst. Perhaps later revisions of the board have been finessed like that.
-
They put a lot of solder around that micro connector !
That's not solder but some sort of glue.
-
These dicky micro USB smt connectors is a bad bad bad practice which sadly is used by even manufacturers like Flir.
-
i think you should discuss that why with usb consortium. or maybe full sized usb port should be reimplemented in smartphones and mini mini devices.
-
Wrapper,
Well spotted sir :-+ Yes, upon closer inspection they have used a translucent epoxy like material at the rear of the connector. As has already been stated, there are more robust mounting options for the Micro USB connector and they use through hole ‘legs’ on the connector shroud. That might mess up someone’s pretty multi layer board layout though ;D
When I first saw the Micro USB connector on the FLIR E4, I was unimpressed, and said so. I have never been a fan of that connector but others have told me that I need to get with the program as Micro USB is well designed for mobile platforms. Hmmmmm, still not impressed with it ;D
Fraser
-
One day all of this will be contactless and done over radio links.
Except maybe the DC power...
-
Thank you @Ultrapurple for the photos!
I can't tell if there are traces coming off the connector but given the proximity of L2 I'd guess the vias are in the pads. Not good for repair.
Whether it be adhesive or blobs of solder on that connector, it means they had to "hand touch" the assembly & if they did that then there is no excuse for not having a through-hole part which had to be hand placed. ...Of course they probably had to hand-insert the sensor module too.
The sad part about the connectors with the through-hole pins is that the pins are not long enough to go through most cheap boards. The pins on the Amphenol parts I looked at on DigiKey are 0.8mm long and the ones on the Molex parts are only 0.6mm. Neither one will go through the typical .062" board or even one half that thick. So while it is still better than strict surface mount, it won't have the effect of a "rivet head": of solder on the bottom side of the board keeping the pin from pulling out. I wonder if maybe the part can be machine placed only if the pins are that short. I have seen the plating pulled out of pwb holes but I don't recall if it was only under the heat stress and impatience of rework or if it was during "normal" use.
Another thing that would help in this case is if there were a "boss" on the housing that touched the top of the connector so there would not be a lifting force on it when stressed, but with manufacturing tolerances only some units would have just the right contact, with no clearance & no stress on the board.
-
The main problem is this:
Exchanging a 50 cents part that requires four solder points, even small ones, is a piece of cake.
But if the PCB belongs to a 5000 Euro equipment, any error on that 50 cents part might cause a 5000 Euro loss!
And it often starts with a solder point, then suddenly too much heat and the PCB trace pops up, then you seek another point on that trace and suddenly you realize you screwed up.
Taking this risk for free, for friendship, for a small amount of money is simply not worth it. If you make the repair happen: yeah! You are a great guy for 5 minutes. If you screw things up, which happens in seconds, you are an a**hole for the rest of your life.
I guess this is the real reason why so many people refuse to do the job.
Regards,
Vitor
You have pinpointed what the repair business is about: Speading the risk over all the customers to make it affordable. If you repair 100 laptops with a 2% chance of failure, you lose 2 laptops, and they can be replaced (or repaired at high cost), and the cost can be spread over all 100 customers. If you repair 1 laptop with a 2% chance of failure, and you fail, you have no recourse.
That, I think, is why people are unwilling to fix this: They don't have experience with this instrument, they don't have a source of other instruments like it or another way to get it repaired if they fail, they don't even know how much it would cost.
Still, I think Louis Rossmann would take this on.
-
I can't tell if there are traces coming off the connector but given the proximity of L2 I'd guess the vias are in the pads. Not good for repair.
Seem to be common mode choke for USB data lines. So it's actually very good.
-
Holy shit, just reading these. Thanks. I just sent Louis an email. Thank you
-
....Hah
I literally, recently went through the lengthy process of sending a Therm-App HZ out of country past customs (The US) to Opgal for repair, and was successful - and now have an idea of what to do.
[I was determined to maintain my therm app as it'd been a bunch of years and I wanted a recalibration done on it, and was prepared to get an export license and do whatever the heck i needed to, and call as many agencies as it took to get an idea of the process- Just to see how crazy it'd get(and it is something that probably very few individuals do, as the process seems built for businesses)- but i did it!)
No one tells you anywhere about the entire process to get properly send something out of country that's high-tech like thermal cameras, but after multiple calls to BIS, getting the login on the IRS site to log into Customs to get a number that i could put on the USPS form(since i went with USPS)- etc, it was a pain, BUT i discovered, there is a exception " code"for some thermal cameras (which it appears the vast majority of therm-apps fit under this) that allows you to send a thermal camera overseas for repair purposes to manufacturers only , without getting a full export license. - that i used , after bugging the BIS agency heavily about the process. [The entire process involved a lot more agencies like doing stuff on the IRS's website to put details in a Customs Database online ...And sending an email to a BIS email address about the basic details of what i was sending and where, as they seem to require records be sent to them anytime any tech like that goes out of country)
I can go into greater detail for this process as i just did it (it took forever, but i now have that camera back from Israel) - let me know!
-
Amazing!! Congratulations Dark Volter.
Out of curiosity, did BIS provide any useful information via e-mail or did they only answer questions over the phone? Their web site gives an e-mail address to use for asking questions but when I e-mailed a question about sending a thermal camera out of country their reply merely gave me the name of a person to call. I figured that was the standard CYA practice intended to facilitate denying people's claims of what they said and didn't bother pursuing it since it was not a concern for me specifically.
It is good that you have determined that it is possible, but I think I will still consider it essentially not possible & treat any non-US thermal camera as warranty-free.
-
No, i got all my info from calling them.
Also, Believe it or not- I also ended up talking to and calling the Census Bureau, in my ridiculous chase for information on how to to through the system- and they were extremely helpful in knowing about the process as well.
For BIS, I noted that sometimes i got a different person, and sometimes I think you'll get someone from BIS who really is familiar with the process ,that's willing to help- this made it easy.
Other days were slower...
Ah, dug up the deets- Apologies for formatting, it
-required bugging the Census Bureau, BIS, and some work involving Customs and USPS
It involved me actually having to get a EIN[Which is usually what you are required to do if you make a business in the US- but it's used for export purposes, so if you dont have a business you have to do this anyway]
from the IRS website [Though they don't interact at all with exports or this themselves , interestingly ] just so I could log onto the Custom Website, as
the EIN is used to get a AES account on the AES system that Census runs
,but is partially now handled by Customs(its on their website)- and the AES system is what you have to get an account on to file a [EEI] Electronic Export
Information Form for BIS and Customs.
I also had to toss an email to BIS due to CFR 743.3, with basic details
https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2010-title15-vol2/pdf/CFR-2010-title15-vol2-sec743-3.pdf (https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2010-title15-vol2/pdf/CFR-2010-title15-vol2-sec743-3.pdf)
https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/15/743.3 (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/15/743.3) [more readable
version of above link]
and I also throughout all this made calls bugging BIS and Census
> which let me to discovering that exemptions are a thing for advanced grade tech (on the CCL) - otherwise i'd have to fully get an export license and go through that process.
-but these allow one to send back things (in my case, to a manufacturer without a License for repair purposes pending what you're sending) via exceptions/exception codes
(I specifically used code [RPL]for replacement/servicing since it was getting serviced, but there's multiple codes such as a temp export and low value one, -though RPL fit best for me since i was trying to tune/fix/calibrate it)
https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2010-title15-vol2/pdf/CFR-2010-title15-vol2-sec743-3.pdf (https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2010-title15-vol2/pdf/CFR-2010-title15-vol2-sec743-3.pdf)
USPS for some reason didn't have too much knowledge into the entire process despite me using them[on the shipping form you need a number from the AES database entry you make, i think you'd need it even with UPS or Fedex or whoever] , and some days when i contacted BIS they weren't as ....immediately forthcoming/helpful , but it depends 100% on who you get.
Census was ridiculously helpful and extremely smart - still surprising to me that they actually play a
very large role in all this), as were the later people I happened to get in touch with when reaching out to BIS.
I friggin love the Census bureau peeps for their help here- They actually seemed to know a bit more than BIS even.
Alas, until (especially) FLIR or SEEK or someone domestic in the US comes up with a decent-spec mid-grade camera that's not many many multiples in price , as Opgal did, I suppose this is the
silliness that one technically will have to go through. [Though that's why everyone's now going after the chinese ones that are about the same spec at the 800 to 1000 dollar price point currently. ]
- This would have been harder if i had to send my recently acquired Therm-App Pro [I was sending my Therm App HZ] as it appeared that the Pro , due to specs might not work with the RPL codes and might require a full on Export license -haven't been able to tell for sure yet though, still looking into this. Need someone with a really high end, really high spec thermal camera who deals in these things to shed some light on this process...it'd be good to know for the future when the high end tech gets better and cheaper and people need to fix or send in cameras for maintenance overseas, since these things drift slightly after years go by...
Well, sooner or later, someone with valuable tech has to send something to the manufacturer who happens to be elsewhere, for repairs, and hopefully they'll find this topic or elsewhere and come in and tell us about the process of getting an export license from the perspective of an individual person- they'll have to probably not do TOO much more than i did, i imagine file for it, and await getting it....
The other big thing about all of this- the process is 100% expecting you to be a business, not a person. So, it was weird, because I'm not a business - and i think that was to the surprise of everyone- but it's not a requirement you be a business.
Also, the exception codes are really useful- i'm happy they exist. Otherwise, you couldn't repair anything that's foreign built, without a full on license- And of course, it's not like one can easily just start up their own high end thermal camera company to build the tech to play with... lol...otherwise i'd do just that in a heartbeat.
I did directly find out that AES database lets the BIS and maybe Census? Track how often exception codes are used, so they know how much merchandise/advanced tech is being sent out that needs it- so it's sorta to help streamline things for businesses I guess.
Sidenote:Israeli customs did hold the package, according to tracking- i had paid for tracking, so i had Opgal look into it when it wasn't moving from customs after a while- and after that, they got it.
Opgal was a big help there with that. [They still don't seem to realize how awesome of a product they have- its a shame they aren't as focused on the Therm-Apps as they used to be...]
US customs though, was what i was worried about when i started the process-
Kinda surprised i seem to be the only person who said "Okay, let's play this game and see how far one has to go to get a piece of tech fixed"- and put this to the test.
-
You have my vote for:
1) Louis Rossmann
and adding:
2) Alex (Hussein) - he is an EE
Both are just brilliant and excellent for this microsoldering repair. Tons of their youtube videos on the net. Alex has a 500 piece assorted USB connector kit which may come in handy for this repair.
(PS: I think Alex is the voice for the Aardvark on the Ant and the Aardvark but do not say that to him...)
https://northridgefix.com/
Good luck!
Do post your update on this repair. PS#2 - Even if you use this advice, use the reward for the service of this tool. Personally makes my stomach turn that we (Canada & USA) are losing our technical edge. This is NOT a difficult repair and your local competent cellphone shop should be able to do this rather quickly if the connector is not 'rare'. Wish more locals would step up to offer these kind of repairs. For Shenzhen, this would be an in/out repair. <End of my rant>
-
I hope for the OP's sake that whoever fixes it does it in such a way that there is not nearly as much strain on the pwb pad adhesion--preferably by using some form of bulkhead connector (makeshift if necessary).
@Dark Volter, thanks for the details. Very interesting, although I still hope to avoid the process.
-
As the owner of a not-broken Therm-App Pro, is there anything I can do to physically make the connector more robust against this kind of damage?
This may be ridiculous, but I was thinking an extension of some sort, which could then be epoxied in place, transferring the stress of connection and disconnection to the case?
-
As the self-appointed Therm-App expert, I'll tell you what I do.
First, I'm careful. This may seem obvious, but it's worth saying.
Second, long ago I decided to start using a curly USB cable - and I commend the practice to anyone using a Therm-App.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/5756/21981502160_10c644df21_c_d.jpg)
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/ultrapurple/21981502160/)
The cable is a simple micro USB to micro USB - though it took me a while to find one that worked. Click the photo to go to a page where I was discussing it. The great advantage of using this type of cable is that it greatly reduces any strain on the socket - there's no leverage from the cable.
I have looked for a micro-USB to type-C equivalent cable but the curly ones I found didn't work. More (including X-Rays!) on this thread (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/help-needed-usb-c-to-micro-usb-puzzles/msg3495714/#msg3495714).
It is possible to use a short USB extender cable as a 'port saver', though I have never had to do this. I'd tend to use something like Sugru (https://sugru.com/buy/sugru-mouldable-glue)to hold the connector in place, rather than epoxy resin. If (when) the cable fails you can remove Sugru, whereas epoxy resin is generally there for keeps.
Despite my best efforts at persuasion, my partner kills phones and tablets by using them when they're charging. Resting a device on its USB port is not a good idea and the damage seems to be cumulative (even if it probably isn't). Applying caution to the force used when plugging the USB cable into the Therm-App (and, more importantly, while it's plugged in) is the most important point in ensuring longevity of the device. (Well, after obvious things like avoiding trying to use it underwater...).
Edit +24h - dammit, I just re-read up the thread and realise this is a repost of something I said earlier. Sorry. My only excuse is that my earlier post was well over a year ago.
-
As the owner of a not-broken Therm-App Pro, is there anything I can do to physically make the connector more robust against this kind of damage?
This may be ridiculous, but I was thinking an extension of some sort, which could then be epoxied in place, transferring the stress of connection and disconnection to the case?
My son managed to force a few micro USB ports on his tablet while gaming. To prevent further damage I switched to a magnetic USB charging & data cable (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Charging+data+Magnetic+Micro+USB+Cable&ref=nb_sb_noss (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Charging+data+Magnetic+Micro+USB+Cable&ref=nb_sb_noss))
Any time the cable is stressed, the magnet just decouples, but the port is never damaged. As an added benefit, the magnetic dummy remains in the port of the tablet, so the connector is also not worn out be continuously plugging in and out. These come in all length and colors, just be careful that you buy one that does charging AND data.
-
Any time the cable is stressed, the magnet just decouples, but the port is never damaged. As an added benefit, the magnetic dummy remains in the port of the tablet, so the connector is also not worn out be continuously plugging in and out. These come in all length and colors, just be careful that you buy one that does charging AND data.
+1
Although I must say I have never noticed a magnetic micro-USB connector that does both power and data.
I loved the magnetic 'pogo' connector on the Nexus 10 (back in 2012...) that did manage both, but was about an inch wide.