Disassemble a FLIR ONE PRO 3 Philip infrared camera 拆解一个FLIR ONE PRO 3菲力尔红外热像仪

[Erhannis]

Thanks for the helpful image and information!  To clarify, you soldered to that one gold pad next to the ribbon, and to the resistor near the two largest visible chip-things?  (See my own photos for what I mean - target marked in blue.  Sorry about weird angles.)

[SpottedDick]

Hi All,

It looks like people are trying this with the micro USB connector (on the phone side). Has anyone tried the power mod with a USB-C version?

[Ultrapurple]

Sorry about weird angles.

Those photos are excellent.

It's hard to make good, well-lit photos of tiny SMD parts buried inside an assembly - when I saw them, my first thought was 'how did Erhannis get such good photos?'

Praise where praise is due. And welcome to the forum 

[Denim]

Didn't want to say exactly what connection points I used as I can't be sure it won't cause problems over time.

I am using the usb-c version and did this mod a little under 2 years ago maybe.

I have been using it on occasion for like 15mins max, even when the battery was dead and never ran into issues.

I will have to say if you remove the usb ribbon to do this to be very carful with it, it's very fragile copper and if you bend it, it will break.

[SpottedDick]

Cheers Demim. I was speaking with someone elsewhere and I believe the connection points are the same. I'm going to try it and will update here when I get a chance. Might do some current measurements as well...

[k8943]

Found a  video with some smart Russian guy repairing Flir One Pros.

We can see that it's a 3-wire Lipo. I think that means it has a thermistor monitoring lead which would need to  be tricked if battery removed.

Also he identifies the charger IC. A BQ24295 3A from Texas.





Here's  the video: 

[Erhannis]

@Ultrapurple, haha, thanks.  I used a cheap usb microscope like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001863601768.html.  I strongly doubt its zoom is as good as it claims, but it's useful enough for many things.  (With great effort, I believe I was able to make out blood cells - or, some type of cells present in the blood, anyway.  Dunno what resolution that suggests.)

@Denim; ok, thanks!

@k8943; Ah, that explains why it wouldn't turn on when I removed the battery, even while plugged in.  Is there an easy solution, like shorting the pin to VCC or GND?  Or do you have to have a resistor in there?  I can probably figure it out, from the documentation, but it'll take a while of reading - if anybody knows off the top of their head, that'd be neat.  (Maybe I could remove the actual battery part and leave the thermistor...?)  Thanks!

[Bill W]

@k8943; Ah, that explains why it wouldn't turn on when I removed the battery, even while plugged in.  Is there an easy solution, like shorting the pin to VCC or GND?  Or do you have to have a resistor in there?  I can probably figure it out, from the documentation, but it'll take a while of reading - if anybody knows off the top of their head, that'd be neat.  (Maybe I could remove the actual battery part and leave the thermistor...?)  Thanks!

Try the near-default of 10k, most simple packs are a 10k (@25°C)  thermistor and call a fault if over 45°C (2k7 ish) or under 10°C (27k-ish) .
Some charge controllers are set up to work with thermal switches so GND or VCC might also make them happy with life

Bill

[k8943]

Spot on.

Datasheet (page 23) https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/bq24295.pdf

says:

8.3.3.3 Thermistor Qualification
The charger device provides a single thermistor input for battery temperature monitor.
8.3.3.3.1 Cold/Hot Temperature Window
The device continuously monitors battery temperature by measuring the voltage between the TS pin and ground, typically determined by a negative temperature coefficient thermistor and an external voltage divider. The device compares this voltage against its internal thresholds to determine if charge or boost is allowed.
To initiate a charge cycle, the battery temperature must be within the VLTF to VHTF thresholds. During the charge cycle the battery temperature must be within the VLTF to VTCO thresholds, else the device suspends charging and waits until the battery temperature is within the VLTF to VHTF range.

and they recommend  a  103AT-2  thermistor  which is indeed 10k

https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Semitec/103AT-2?qs=wgO0AD0o1vvcDzsKguD%252Bew==

[k8943]

Have decided to go with an external LiPo to power the Flir. Rather larger than the internal one. And to charge it from a separate charger. Never used Lipo's before. Could anyone recommend a battery? Maybe that can be plugged into a phone charger?

The two major hardware issues with the Flir One Pro are a) the mysteriously always discharged battery and b) the wobbly attachment to phone via lightning connector. My phone has a Quadlockcase (a case  with a connector for attaching to car, bike etc. https://www.quadlockcase.eu ). Intend to 3d print a box for Flir and external Lipo with a suitably Quadlock connector so will attach firmly to back of phone. Then use a lightning male/female connector to join camera to phone. The case would have a single two position switch on it: Use / Charge. When in Charge mode the battery would be connected to the external charging port on the box. When in Use mode the battery would be connected to the Flir. Not having anything to do with the Flir charging / discharging circuit.

Any comments?

[k8943]

Ah, so with a Power Bank - which is 5v - you would power the Flir through it's charging port (though it's battery might be removed)?

That's very neat!

And what about a raw 3.7v LIPO that connnects to where the battery in the FLIR would be? (But is charged using it's own charger and disconnected from the FLIR when not in use, less the Flir mysteriously discharge it.)

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B07R67NQ1N/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1DN7NX21S2ZS9&psc=1

[Propretor]

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

[Propretor]

Found a  video with some smart Russian guy repairing Flir One Pros.
We can see that it's a 3-wire Lipo. I think that means it has a thermistor monitoring lead which would need to  be tricked if battery removed.
Also he identifies the charger IC. A BQ24295 3A from Texas.
(Attachment Link)
Here's  the video: 

The Russian-speaking guy (actually a Kazakh from Kazakhstan) in the video is unsuccessfully trying to restore the board, in which there are a huge number of internal interlayer breaks. It didn't work out for him. Flir has a very big marriage!

[k8943]

You convinced me, have ordered the boards. I guess since iPhone's battery is 10x the FLIR figures it shouldn't drain much. ( @denim in an earlier post had connected phone to charging port so it had extra work to do).

We don't care about the thermistor wire because we don't care what the charging IC thinks any more?

btw. do Kazakhs have an accent?

[Propretor]

Yes There is an accent.
I made a current source from this board. The result is 4 points out of 5. Here there is a thread about this (in Russian) but Google helps!
https://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=176316
These are good universal modules and fit perfectly in size instead of a battery.
You can forget about the thermistor altogether. The stabilizer board is connected with a battery connector (in order not to spoil the thermal imager board, the cable is detached from the battery and soldered to the stabilizer contacts) and with just one additional wire to + 5V. Everything! It's old that the engineers FLIR came up with a nonsense with an internal battery.

[k8943]

Getting ready  to wire the  buck module  to the  FLIR. But whenever I plug  my  iPhone (unlocked)  to  the lightning connector there is never any voltage at the test point (circled purple)

[k8943]

Inside the battery.... thermistor  the  black coloured component parallel to the beige capacitor (I think!).

Wired up the buck module  but still don't get any voltage on  the blue  wire when iPhone connected. iPhone can  power out like Android? (Everyone else  here seems to be on  Android  phones with  USBC  connectors?)

[Propretor]

I have an Android.
Micro-USB & USB Type-c have 5V on the control contact. I have tested this. I can't say anything about the Apple connector. I don't have it.
The contact that you used MUST BE 5B. Perhaps OTG needs to be enabled in your smartphone.

[Propretor]

You did everything right, but
1. Remove the white wire. He's not needed.
2. Wrap the stabilizer with insulating tape and glue the double-sided tape to the thermal imager board.
3. Find 5V on the board. Without this, nothing will work for you.
4. The soldering is not of high quality wires to the board.
5. Clean the flux after soldering.

[k8943]

Was unable to  find a connection between  the end of the ribbon cable at the +5v pad and any of the pads on the  lightning connector. (However GND and data were all connected.) So  FLIR's connector has the 5v disabled.  The sensible thing to do would be to find another lightning  connector  and follow your plan, @Propretor, but instead decided to have a  different type of  fun.

(see  photos)

Wired a 660mAh  battery from Amazon via a switch to the FLIR.  Either the FLIR  is  on or the battery  is connected to  its charge connector. Works  quite well  and  no  need to access the FLIR's  on/off  switch.  The FLIR cannot drain  the battery when it is off and  because it's a single cell FLIR software shows the state  of charge (there's  a procedure for calibrating by doing some kind of reset  after a full  charge - haven't bothered yet!).

3d  printed a case in ABS so could  acetone-weld (solvent) a 3d  printed Quadlockcase connector to the back which  allows attachment to my  iPhone case as well as a tripod mount  (do that sometimes if eg making video of stepper driver under load). However it was stupid to print in transparent plastic because stray light causes interference with the sensor. Anyway already feels  more robust that the original and look forward to seeing how battery performs.

[Propretor]

Was unable to  find a connection between  the end of the ribbon cable at the +5v pad and any of the pads on the  lightning connector.

Making a case on a printer is very cool for me! Probably not easy to do all these model size descriptions ...
I'm not an expert on Apple technology, and besides, I don't have it. But, as I understand it, Apple's smartphone won't give 5V just like that. We need microcircuits. The problem is the lack of 5 volts only in this.
Read here: https://www.ixbt.com/live/supply/menyaem-razem-na-kabele-lighting-dlya-tehniki-apple.html
And here is a chip to give 5 volts: https://aliexpress.ru/item/32828039436.html?af=701906&utm_campaign=701906&aff_platform=api-new-hotproduct-download&utm_medium=cpa&afref=https%3A%2F%2Faliradar.com%2Fitem%2F32828039436%3Furl%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Faliexpress.ru%2Fitem%2F32828039436.html%26params%3D2815730_5108&dp=aae4933ba3b294c49e4f1a1542f2c700&aff_fcid=e23f7459732742a1aea5229661e7148e-1620678778619-07543&cv=815660&aff_trace_key=e23f7459732742a1aea5229661e7148e-1620678778619-07543&terminal_id=92cf250980aa4a0d9b3b7b60a29e2f03&tmLog=new_Detail&utm_source=admitad&utm_content=815660

https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000554740924.html?af=90289&utm_campaign=90289&aff_platform=link-c-tool&utm_medium=cpa&afref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.iguides.ru%2Fblogs%2Falt_vision_jeronimo%2Fusbotg-i-apple-podklyuchaem-lyubye-usbfleshki-k-iphone-i-ipad%2F&dp=1243456c3f1d8d0da83663b3787ae727&aff_fcid=37637d21aaaa44568e7ad9e94c77796d-1620679926400-04400-mr6wR6CC&cv=815660&aff_fsk=mr6wR6CC&sk=mr6wR6CC&aff_trace_key=37637d21aaaa44568e7ad9e94c77796d-1620679926400-04400-mr6wR6CC&terminal_id=92cf250980aa4a0d9b3b7b60a29e2f03&utm_source=admitad&utm_content=815660

[W1ngl3t]

Hi all,

Would anyone be able to help me identify this component next to the resistor in the pic? The big chip you are seeing to the left is the flash memory.
I presume this was a diode similar to the two other ones near it with the "E" markings, but what specs?

Many thanks!

[tedkord]

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

I'm very interested in this idea - I've had to change out the battery on my F1Pro twice already. To be able to use it without the battery, powering off my phone, would be awesome. Is this still working? And is there a clear instruction page somewhere so that someone like myself (not knowledgeable in soldering/circuitry) could either follow it, or I could find someone who is good with this stuff, and pass the directions to him/her?

Any help is appreciated.

[Fraser]

The replacement Li-Po cell for my F1G3 Pro has arrived. It looks to be a well made replacement and I have used Cameron Sino cells previously without issues, so it should perform OK. Sadly in my case (Red LED) I doubt that it will rectify the ‘no boot’ problem as that is more likely an issue with the BGA IC soldering I bought this new cell to fit if the unit can be repaired as the original cells are suspect quality. This cell cost me £12 delivered to the UK but it did take over a month to get here.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-For-FLIR-One-Pro-/304231145528?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Fraser

[Propretor]

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

I'm very interested in this idea - I've had to change out the battery on my F1Pro twice already. To be able to use it without the battery, powering off my phone, would be awesome. Is this still working? And is there a clear instruction page somewhere so that someone like myself (not knowledgeable in soldering/circuitry) could either follow it, or I could find someone who is good with this stuff, and pass the directions to him/her?

Any help is appreciated.

The method works only on Android devices with OTG function.