Author Topic: Disassemble a FLIR ONE PRO 3 Philip infrared camera 拆解一个FLIR ONE PRO 3菲力尔红外热像仪 (Read 55300 times)

Dlman · « **on:** January 05, 2019, 01:57:26 pm »

Hello everyone, finally found out why the reason why I can't register is because my mailbox is set to encrypt, the activation email is treated as garbage collection, and I am very happy to register now. In addition, my personal English is very poor. I use the post translated by Google Translate. Message h and reply, I hope everyone can take more care, the network will be as clear as possible, other words will not say more, everyone directly look at the dismantling photos I took, thank you!

Dlman · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2019, 01:59:56 pm »

Continue to upload photos below

Dlman · « **Reply #2 on:** January 05, 2019, 02:01:46 pm »

2Continue to upload photos below

Dlman · « **Reply #3 on:** January 05, 2019, 02:04:08 pm »

3Continue to upload photos below

Dlman · « **Reply #4 on:** January 05, 2019, 02:06:34 pm »

Ok, let's upload this part of the photo first. If you need it, you can ask me, thank you.

Mr. Scram · « **Reply #5 on:** January 05, 2019, 06:06:36 pm »

An Atmel ARM chip. Interesting choice.

mahony · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2019, 09:36:10 am »

The relevant parts very much look like the internals of the FLIR One Gen2 - not absolutely sure about the processor but no huge improvements as far as I can see.

pinchies · « **Reply #7 on:** July 20, 2019, 01:46:02 am »

Thank you very much for posting these photos - I couldn't figure out how to open it without seeing your first image of the screw covers.

The calibration shutter on Flir One Pro 3 stopped working, causing ghosting and retained images every time it tried to calibrate for nonuniformity. I disassembled the unit, and then reseated both the Lepton module and the shutter assembly, and it started working again. I suspect one of my rental clients dropped the unit and didn't tell me.

They do seem to be a little more fragile in field than would perhaps appear from the rugged exterior, but overall I have no complaints.

shag · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2020, 03:18:56 pm »

What bit is used to take it apart? I've tried all my security torx and none work. It looks a little different than normal torx but I can't tell. Any help is greatly appreciated!

shag · « **Reply #9 on:** December 18, 2020, 04:52:16 pm »

用什么来将它拆开？我已经尝试了所有的安全等级，但没有任何效果。它看起来与普通的Torx有点不同，但我无法分辨。任何帮助是极大的赞赏！

Propretor · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2021, 05:37:16 am »

Hi! If you remove the battery from a imager Flir One Pro Gen3, will the imager work without a battery when voltage is applied to the Type-C charging connector?
Modify message

Propretor · « **Reply #11 on:** January 09, 2021, 05:38:26 am »

Quote from: shag on December 18, 2020, 03:18:56 pm

What bit is used to take it apart? I've tried all my security torx and none work. It looks a little different than normal torx but I can't tell. Any help is greatly appreciated!

T5 !

Fraser · « **Reply #12 on:** January 09, 2021, 03:04:22 pm »

Propretor,

You have asked about the operation without a battery fitted in several threads and no one has responded so I thought I would.

I have not tested this so cannot really help but I can provide some comment.

The FlIR One G2 and G3 use a power management IC that controls the charging of the battery and power supply to the camera electronics. Such power management IC’s can have different ways of operating but these may be set at the time of camera manufacture. From memory the FLIR One operate as follows.....

1. Charger is connected to camera
2. Power management IC applies charge supply to Lithium Polymer Battery and monitors the battery state.
3. User request to switch on the camera MAY be accepted by the power management IC but some products are configured to lock out power to the camera electronics whilst charging. I seem to remember people applying external power whilst the camera was operating and it working however. Their cameras contained a working battery though.
4. The camera power management IC is designed to charge the Lithium Polymer battery and NOT run the camera. As such, if the Li-Polymer charger discovers no voltage at the battery terminals it will very likely go into an alarm state and the power management IC will lockout the charger and likely the camera power line as well. This is just good practice in a critical fault condition. The charger should not try to charge a Li-Polymer cell that has dropped to below its safe minimum terminal voltage.
5. It IS possible to power the camera by applying a supply directly to the Li-Polymer battery terminals and the Power Management IC will behave as though it has a fully charged battery connected. A fully charged Li-Polymer battery presents around 4.2V to the IC and not the 5V found on USB. The camera may tolerate the slight increase in supply voltage. The charging port on the camera is not directly connected to the Li-Polymer battery so that is not the same as connecting to the battery terminals.

So in Précis.... I would expect the cameras power management IC to go into alarm if no voltage is detected at the battery input terminals. The camera was never designed to be operated whilst connected to a charger and the user manual confirms that this should not be done. I would not expect the camera to start if the Li-Polymer battery is missing and this is supported by users experience of the FLIR One G2/G3 when a stored camera suffers a fully discharged battery that refuses to charge as it is locked out by the power management IC.

Fraser

Denim · « **Reply #13 on:** January 09, 2021, 11:47:06 pm »

I wired my Flir's usb out to the usb in charging port. My phone charges the flir while in use. It will stay fully charged until the phone battery dies. It does drain a lot of battery power, but I have not had any problems.

I tried to run it with no battery, It will power up for a second with no battery, but quickly powers back down.

I blocked out were I have the positive wired to cause I can't be sure it would not cause damage eventually. I have been using it for a year and no issues, if you try it, do so at your own risk.

Propretor · « **Reply #14 on:** January 10, 2021, 07:47:33 am »

Fraser, thanks!

Denim, There is 1 question and 1 comment.
1.Why did you cover the junction in the photo with black?
2.The second connection is not necessary in your case: both USB connectors have a common ground. One connection is enough.
3.This is a bad decision. Not every smartphone will allow you to power the imager and charge the imager battery at the same time. Too much current - 1-1.5 amperes!

Propretor · « **Reply #15 on:** January 10, 2021, 07:51:59 am »

Quote from: Denim on January 09, 2021, 11:47:06 pm

I blocked out were I have the positive wired to cause I can't be sure it would not cause damage eventually.

I did not understand what was written. What did you mean?

Denim · « **Reply #16 on:** January 10, 2021, 08:19:54 am »

I blocked it out so people would not blindly follow what I did.

The phone does not power the imager at all, the battery is the only thing powering it.

I don't really remember cause I did it so long ago, but I doubt the ground is common. I would have picked up on it when I tested the points.

Propretor · « **Reply #17 on:** January 10, 2021, 05:16:36 pm »

Quote from: Denim on January 10, 2021, 08:19:54 am

I blocked it out so people would not blindly follow what I did.

It would be very interesting to see how you cut the Type-C connector from the board.

Denim · « **Reply #18 on:** January 11, 2021, 06:25:43 am »

I didn't do anything with the usb-c connector, the connecter is on a ribbon with a detachable connector that I removed to get it out of the way.

I tried to solder the usb-c points directly, but it was too small for me to solder onto, so I found alternative points on the board that had vcc and gnd.

Propretor · « **Reply #19 on:** January 11, 2021, 07:20:56 pm »

Quote from: Denim on January 11, 2021, 06:25:43 am

I didn't do anything with the usb-c connector, the connecter is on a ribbon with a detachable connector that I removed to get it out of the way.
I tried to solder the usb-c points directly, but it was too small for me to solder onto, so I found alternative points on the board that had vcc and gnd.

You did not understand me. I mean how you isolated the USB Type-C for charging from the imager board. I meant the place that you painted in black.

Denim · « **Reply #20 on:** January 12, 2021, 12:54:13 am »

I followed the vcc traces on the usb-c connector up to what it connected to. Plugged in a usb-c cable that I cut open and checked that the lead had continuity with the contact point I found earlier.

pacukas · « **Reply #21 on:** January 18, 2021, 01:00:35 pm »

fantastic!

I used to solder only 1 wire for connecting two + connections between 2 usb ports in Flir,

all works now , the flir is charged via phone USB!

so 1 wire hack is enough here:)
no need for ground wire.

another 2 features we got after this upgrade to Flir:
when you plug the Flir into the phone USB, Flir automatically starts.
when you take out Flir from phone USB, Flir automatically shuts down.

my hack photo attached.

I take no responsibility if you solder wrongly, so you damage the device, please be carefull! the wires and connections are very small!

Disassemble a FLIR ONE PRO 3 Philip infrared camera 拆解一个FLIR ONE PRO 3菲力尔红外热像仪

Fraser · « **Reply #22 on:** January 18, 2021, 02:55:48 pm »

My only concern with this mod is the warning on page 2 of the user manual. It states that the FLIR One camera is not intended to be charged whilst in use. That could, in reality mean nothing bad will happen, but it does make me think some caution and testing is needed. Such as trying to use the camera when the battery is flat and taking power from the host..... does the power management IC overheat when powering both the camera and battery charger ? I have met several systems in the past that state the user should not use the system whilst it is charging for reasons of thermal dissipation and potential overheating.

https://docs.rs-online.com/7cf1/0900766b81622027.pdf

Fraser

pacukas · « **Reply #23 on:** January 18, 2021, 03:07:03 pm »

agree, haven't tested it for more than 1 hrs, dont know what will happen if used for longly.

I have just returned from outside - worked about 45 mins with Flir on,
I was doing all stuff in -15 cold outside, so no overheating, device is frozen as ice when back to home

but what a difference! no power outs, no apps crashes, nothing as was before due to power losses from crappy inner battery!

Now when power was fed constantly from powerful Samsung s20+ battery (4400 mAh capacity) I just lost about 10 % in phone battery during that time.

Fraser · « **Reply #24 on:** January 18, 2021, 03:40:55 pm »

Great result

To test fir potential issues you need to let the FLIR One internal battery discharge for a while so the charge circuit has to do some work rather than sitting in standby because the battery is fully charged. This would simulate the self discharge that these cameras exhibit when not used for a while. Only then will you truly know if the camera design tolerates powering the camera whilst also charging the battery at the same time.

Fraser

Erhannis · « **Reply #25 on:** February 22, 2021, 08:38:48 pm »

Thanks for the helpful image and information! To clarify, you soldered to that one gold pad next to the ribbon, and to the resistor near the two largest visible chip-things? (See my own photos for what I mean - target marked in blue. Sorry about weird angles.)

SpottedDick · « **Reply #26 on:** March 02, 2021, 10:27:07 pm »

Hi All,

It looks like people are trying this with the micro USB connector (on the phone side). Has anyone tried the power mod with a USB-C version?

Ultrapurple · « **Reply #27 on:** March 03, 2021, 08:44:37 am »

Quote from: Erhannis on February 22, 2021, 08:38:48 pm

Sorry about weird angles.

Those photos are excellent.

It's hard to make good, well-lit photos of tiny SMD parts buried inside an assembly - when I saw them, my first thought was 'how did Erhannis get such good photos?'

Praise where praise is due. And welcome to the forum

Denim · « **Reply #28 on:** March 04, 2021, 03:00:04 am »

Didn't want to say exactly what connection points I used as I can't be sure it won't cause problems over time.

I am using the usb-c version and did this mod a little under 2 years ago maybe.

I have been using it on occasion for like 15mins max, even when the battery was dead and never ran into issues.

I will have to say if you remove the usb ribbon to do this to be very carful with it, it's very fragile copper and if you bend it, it will break.

SpottedDick · « **Reply #29 on:** March 04, 2021, 07:23:08 pm »

Cheers Demim. I was speaking with someone elsewhere and I believe the connection points are the same. I'm going to try it and will update here when I get a chance. Might do some current measurements as well...

k8943 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 24, 2021, 03:26:56 pm »

Found a video with some smart Russian guy repairing Flir One Pros.

We can see that it's a 3-wire Lipo. I think that means it has a thermistor monitoring lead which would need to be tricked if battery removed.

Also he identifies the charger IC. A BQ24295 3A from Texas.

Here's the video:

Erhannis · « **Reply #31 on:** March 24, 2021, 10:15:16 pm »

@Ultrapurple, haha, thanks. I used a cheap usb microscope like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001863601768.html. I strongly doubt its zoom is as good as it claims, but it's useful enough for many things. (With great effort, I believe I was able to make out blood cells - or, some type of cells present in the blood, anyway. Dunno what resolution that suggests.)

@Denim; ok, thanks!

@k8943; Ah, that explains why it wouldn't turn on when I removed the battery, even while plugged in. Is there an easy solution, like shorting the pin to VCC or GND? Or do you have to have a resistor in there? I can probably figure it out, from the documentation, but it'll take a while of reading - if anybody knows off the top of their head, that'd be neat. (Maybe I could remove the actual battery part and leave the thermistor...?) Thanks!

Bill W · « **Reply #32 on:** March 25, 2021, 06:32:23 pm »

Quote from: Erhannis on March 24, 2021, 10:15:16 pm

@k8943; Ah, that explains why it wouldn't turn on when I removed the battery, even while plugged in. Is there an easy solution, like shorting the pin to VCC or GND? Or do you have to have a resistor in there? I can probably figure it out, from the documentation, but it'll take a while of reading - if anybody knows off the top of their head, that'd be neat. (Maybe I could remove the actual battery part and leave the thermistor...?) Thanks!

Try the near-default of 10k, most simple packs are a 10k (@25°C) thermistor and call a fault if over 45°C (2k7 ish) or under 10°C (27k-ish) .
Some charge controllers are set up to work with thermal switches so GND or VCC might also make them happy with life

Bill

k8943 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 25, 2021, 06:57:51 pm »

Spot on.

Datasheet (page 23) https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/bq24295.pdf

says:

8.3.3.3 Thermistor Qualification
The charger device provides a single thermistor input for battery temperature monitor.
8.3.3.3.1 Cold/Hot Temperature Window
The device continuously monitors battery temperature by measuring the voltage between the TS pin and ground, typically determined by a negative temperature coefficient thermistor and an external voltage divider. The device compares this voltage against its internal thresholds to determine if charge or boost is allowed.
To initiate a charge cycle, the battery temperature must be within the VLTF to VHTF thresholds. During the charge cycle the battery temperature must be within the VLTF to VTCO thresholds, else the device suspends charging and waits until the battery temperature is within the VLTF to VHTF range.

and they recommend a 103AT-2 thermistor which is indeed 10k

https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Semitec/103AT-2?qs=wgO0AD0o1vvcDzsKguD%252Bew==

k8943 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 31, 2021, 07:17:13 am »

Have decided to go with an external LiPo to power the Flir. Rather larger than the internal one. And to charge it from a separate charger. Never used Lipo's before. Could anyone recommend a battery? Maybe that can be plugged into a phone charger?

The two major hardware issues with the Flir One Pro are a) the mysteriously always discharged battery and b) the wobbly attachment to phone via lightning connector. My phone has a Quadlockcase (a case with a connector for attaching to car, bike etc. https://www.quadlockcase.eu ). Intend to 3d print a box for Flir and external Lipo with a suitably Quadlock connector so will attach firmly to back of phone. Then use a lightning male/female connector to join camera to phone. The case would have a single two position switch on it: Use / Charge. When in Charge mode the battery would be connected to the external charging port on the box. When in Use mode the battery would be connected to the Flir. Not having anything to do with the Flir charging / discharging circuit.

Any comments?

k8943 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 31, 2021, 01:58:00 pm »

Ah, so with a Power Bank - which is 5v - you would power the Flir through it's charging port (though it's battery might be removed)?

That's very neat!

And what about a raw 3.7v LIPO that connnects to where the battery in the FLIR would be? (But is charged using it's own charger and disconnected from the FLIR when not in use, less the Flir mysteriously discharge it.)

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B07R67NQ1N/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1DN7NX21S2ZS9&psc=1

Propretor · « **Reply #36 on:** March 31, 2021, 06:27:31 pm »

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

Propretor · « **Reply #37 on:** March 31, 2021, 06:40:26 pm »

Quote from: k8943 on March 24, 2021, 03:26:56 pm

Found a video with some smart Russian guy repairing Flir One Pros.
We can see that it's a 3-wire Lipo. I think that means it has a thermistor monitoring lead which would need to be tricked if battery removed.
Also he identifies the charger IC. A BQ24295 3A from Texas.
(Attachment Link)
Here's the video:

The Russian-speaking guy (actually a Kazakh from Kazakhstan) in the video is unsuccessfully trying to restore the board, in which there are a huge number of internal interlayer breaks. It didn't work out for him. Flir has a very big marriage!

k8943 · « **Reply #38 on:** March 31, 2021, 07:00:02 pm »

You convinced me, have ordered the boards. I guess since iPhone's battery is 10x the FLIR figures it shouldn't drain much. ( @denim in an earlier post had connected phone to charging port so it had extra work to do).

We don't care about the thermistor wire because we don't care what the charging IC thinks any more?

btw. do Kazakhs have an accent?

Propretor · « **Reply #39 on:** March 31, 2021, 08:12:00 pm »

Yes

There is an accent.
I made a current source from this board. The result is 4 points out of 5. Here there is a thread about this (in Russian) but Google helps!
https://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=176316
These are good universal modules and fit perfectly in size instead of a battery.
You can forget about the thermistor altogether. The stabilizer board is connected with a battery connector (in order not to spoil the thermal imager board, the cable is detached from the battery and soldered to the stabilizer contacts) and with just one additional wire to + 5V. Everything! It's old that the engineers FLIR came up with a nonsense with an internal battery.

k8943 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 03, 2021, 01:16:05 pm »

Getting ready to wire the buck module to the FLIR. But whenever I plug my iPhone (unlocked) to the lightning connector there is never any voltage at the test point (circled purple)

k8943 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 03, 2021, 02:52:42 pm »

Inside the battery.... thermistor the black coloured component parallel to the beige capacitor (I think!).

Wired up the buck module but still don't get any voltage on the blue wire when iPhone connected. iPhone can power out like Android? (Everyone else here seems to be on Android phones with USBC connectors?)

Propretor · « **Reply #42 on:** May 03, 2021, 08:11:38 pm »

I have an Android.
Micro-USB & USB Type-c have 5V on the control contact. I have tested this. I can't say anything about the Apple connector. I don't have it.
The contact that you used MUST BE 5B. Perhaps OTG needs to be enabled in your smartphone.

Propretor · « **Reply #43 on:** May 03, 2021, 08:16:31 pm »

You did everything right, but
1. Remove the white wire. He's not needed.
2. Wrap the stabilizer with insulating tape and glue the double-sided tape to the thermal imager board.
3. Find 5V on the board. Without this, nothing will work for you.
4. The soldering is not of high quality wires to the board.
5. Clean the flux after soldering.

k8943 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 08, 2021, 04:54:28 pm »

Was unable to find a connection between the end of the ribbon cable at the +5v pad and any of the pads on the lightning connector. (However GND and data were all connected.) So FLIR's connector has the 5v disabled. The sensible thing to do would be to find another lightning connector and follow your plan, @Propretor, but instead decided to have a different type of fun.

(see photos)

Wired a 660mAh battery from Amazon via a switch to the FLIR. Either the FLIR is on or the battery is connected to its charge connector. Works quite well and no need to access the FLIR's on/off switch. The FLIR cannot drain the battery when it is off and because it's a single cell FLIR software shows the state of charge (there's a procedure for calibrating by doing some kind of reset after a full charge - haven't bothered yet!).

3d printed a case in ABS so could acetone-weld (solvent) a 3d printed Quadlockcase connector to the back which allows attachment to my iPhone case as well as a tripod mount (do that sometimes if eg making video of stepper driver under load). However it was stupid to print in transparent plastic because stray light causes interference with the sensor. Anyway already feels more robust that the original and look forward to seeing how battery performs.

Propretor · « **Reply #45 on:** May 10, 2021, 08:41:52 pm »

Quote from: k8943 on May 08, 2021, 04:54:28 pm

Was unable to find a connection between the end of the ribbon cable at the +5v pad and any of the pads on the lightning connector.

Making a case on a printer is very cool for me! Probably not easy to do all these model size descriptions ...
I'm not an expert on Apple technology, and besides, I don't have it. But, as I understand it, Apple's smartphone won't give 5V just like that. We need microcircuits. The problem is the lack of 5 volts only in this.
Read here: https://www.ixbt.com/live/supply/menyaem-razem-na-kabele-lighting-dlya-tehniki-apple.html
And here is a chip to give 5 volts: https://aliexpress.ru/item/32828039436.html?af=701906&utm_campaign=701906&aff_platform=api-new-hotproduct-download&utm_medium=cpa&afref=https%3A%2F%2Faliradar.com%2Fitem%2F32828039436%3Furl%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Faliexpress.ru%2Fitem%2F32828039436.html%26params%3D2815730_5108&dp=aae4933ba3b294c49e4f1a1542f2c700&aff_fcid=e23f7459732742a1aea5229661e7148e-1620678778619-07543&cv=815660&aff_trace_key=e23f7459732742a1aea5229661e7148e-1620678778619-07543&terminal_id=92cf250980aa4a0d9b3b7b60a29e2f03&tmLog=new_Detail&utm_source=admitad&utm_content=815660

https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000554740924.html?af=90289&utm_campaign=90289&aff_platform=link-c-tool&utm_medium=cpa&afref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.iguides.ru%2Fblogs%2Falt_vision_jeronimo%2Fusbotg-i-apple-podklyuchaem-lyubye-usbfleshki-k-iphone-i-ipad%2F&dp=1243456c3f1d8d0da83663b3787ae727&aff_fcid=37637d21aaaa44568e7ad9e94c77796d-1620679926400-04400-mr6wR6CC&cv=815660&aff_fsk=mr6wR6CC&sk=mr6wR6CC&aff_trace_key=37637d21aaaa44568e7ad9e94c77796d-1620679926400-04400-mr6wR6CC&terminal_id=92cf250980aa4a0d9b3b7b60a29e2f03&utm_source=admitad&utm_content=815660

W1ngl3t · « **Reply #46 on:** September 17, 2021, 07:42:11 am »

Hi all,

Would anyone be able to help me identify this component next to the resistor in the pic? The big chip you are seeing to the left is the flash memory.
I presume this was a diode similar to the two other ones near it with the "E" markings, but what specs?

Many thanks!

tedkord · « **Reply #47 on:** February 11, 2022, 07:37:36 am »

Quote from: Propretor on March 31, 2021, 06:27:31 pm

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

I'm very interested in this idea - I've had to change out the battery on my F1Pro twice already. To be able to use it without the battery, powering off my phone, would be awesome. Is this still working? And is there a clear instruction page somewhere so that someone like myself (not knowledgeable in soldering/circuitry) could either follow it, or I could find someone who is good with this stuff, and pass the directions to him/her?

Any help is appreciated.

Fraser · « **Reply #48 on:** February 11, 2022, 01:31:56 pm »

The replacement Li-Po cell for my F1G3 Pro has arrived. It looks to be a well made replacement and I have used Cameron Sino cells previously without issues, so it should perform OK. Sadly in my case (Red LED) I doubt that it will rectify the ‘no boot’ problem as that is more likely an issue with the BGA IC soldering

I bought this new cell to fit if the unit can be repaired as the original cells are suspect quality. This cell cost me £12 delivered to the UK but it did take over a month to get here.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-For-FLIR-One-Pro-/304231145528?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Fraser

Propretor · « **Reply #49 on:** February 18, 2022, 10:42:08 am »

Quote from: tedkord on February 11, 2022, 07:37:36 am

Quote from: Propretor on March 31, 2021, 06:27:31 pm
You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

I'm very interested in this idea - I've had to change out the battery on my F1Pro twice already. To be able to use it without the battery, powering off my phone, would be awesome. Is this still working? And is there a clear instruction page somewhere so that someone like myself (not knowledgeable in soldering/circuitry) could either follow it, or I could find someone who is good with this stuff, and pass the directions to him/her?

Any help is appreciated.

The method works only on Android devices with OTG function.

Propretor · « **Reply #50 on:** February 18, 2022, 10:52:21 am »

Quote from: Fraser on February 11, 2022, 01:31:56 pm

The replacement Li-Po cell for my F1G3 Pro has arrived. It looks to be a well made replacement and I have used Cameron Sino cells previously without issues, so it should perform OK. Sadly in my case (Red LED) I doubt that it will rectify the ‘no boot’ problem as that is more likely an issue with the BGA IC soldering I bought this new cell to fit if the unit can be repaired as the original cells are suspect quality. This cell cost me £12 delivered to the UK but it did take over a month to get here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-For-FLIR-One-Pro-/304231145528?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Fraser

When I studied this topic, I realized that the marriage in the printed circuit board was with Flir made in China. My instance was made in in Latvia or Lithuania - I don't remember for sure and there are no problems with it.

Fraser · « **Reply #51 on:** February 18, 2022, 11:14:38 am »

When FLIR decided to add a dedicated Consumer Technology division to their organisation, they looked at where to have the products manufactured. The decision was made to ‘farm out’ the Lepton based camera production to China. The Leptons shipped from the USA to China where they were installed in the China manufactured product. There is absolutely nothing wrong with such a production strategy provided the company trusted to make and populate the PCB’s maintains high standards to avoid a high failure rate. In my experience, it seems fair for me to say that FLIR were let down by their China based production partner when the FLIR One G2 and G3 were manufactured. I suspect FLIR saw the failure rates and realised that they had a production problem. At one point I was being offered bulk lots of 10 faulty FLIR One G2’s from a scrap/surplus seller who sold retail returns and rejects. He had a pile of faulty F1G2’s to clear. That cannot have gone unnoticed at FLIR. FLIR may have moved production back into Europe but I do not know that for sure. That would only be a solution if they selected a production house that could do better than the China based company. Some PCB designs that incorporate BGA IC’s can be challenging to build reliably.

FLIR have used Chinese design & production houses for their Thermal Scope range as well. The TAU cores were shipped to China for integration into the Chinese designed and built thermal scope chassis. Having worked on those scopes, some models are a decent design, whilst others leave something to be desired !

Quality PCB production in China is so commonplace these days that it is surprising that FLIR suffered this problem with the F1G2 and G3 models. Something clearly went badly wrong on that production contract.

Fraser

Bill W · « **Reply #52 on:** February 18, 2022, 11:56:37 am »

Quote from: Fraser on February 18, 2022, 11:14:38 am

Quality PCB production in China is so commonplace these days that it is surprising that FLIR suffered this problem with the F1G2 and G3 models. Something clearly went badly wrong on that production contract.

Fraser

Accountants ?

tedkord · « **Reply #53 on:** March 07, 2022, 11:33:48 pm »

Quote from: Propretor on March 31, 2021, 06:27:31 pm

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

Is there anyone in this forum who is located in the US and could do this for me? Preferably in the Philadelphia/South Jersey area? I'd buy the voltage regulator and pay you for your time.

tedkord · « **Reply #54 on:** February 10, 2023, 11:34:24 pm »

Quote from: Propretor on March 31, 2021, 06:27:31 pm

You guys are doing nonsense. Buy a voltage regulator and plug it in instead of the battery, as I did.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000259403990.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edswGqmU&_ga=2.143500917.1742143978.1617214605-1049604428.1586439898&sku_id=10000001054452173
Instead of a battery, I installed a downconverter 4_5-24V to 0_8-17V 2A at MP2315 500kHz.
I set the lowering to 3.9V (from 5v, received from the main USB Male connector (mico-USB, Type-C), by shorting the 5V and 12V jumpers on the converter).
In this case, depending on the smartphone model, the Flir One Pro application always shows the charge level of a non-existent battery at 70-82%.
I took + 5V from the control patch on the thermal imager board to the right of the USB Male connector cable (mico-USB, Type-C).
A pleasant bonus is that when you turn on OTG in a smartphone (if you need to turn it on in principle), the thermal imager turns on immediately, there is no need
press the power button of the thermal imager.
If you close jumpers 5V and 12V, the output will be exactly 3.9V
When I did all this, I did not take pictures, so there are no photographs. But everything has been working fine for a month already 3. The thermal imager does not heat up inside, and the current consumption from the smartphone is minimal.
No resistors are needed to simulate a thermistor. The main thing is that after revision, never connect voltage to the Type-C charging port.

Sorry to resurrect this post, but I need some guidance. I have zero skill or knowledge of SMD (or any) soldering, but I really want to replace the battery in my Flir One Pro USB-C with a voltage regulator like Propretor did, because the battery keeps going bad. I've found someone locally who does SMD soldering, but he insists he needs drawings to do this job. Does such a thing exist? Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thank for any help.

Volver · « **Reply #55 on:** May 09, 2023, 10:51:00 pm »

I started working like you. When soldering, I hooked the contact pad "3" and the contact of the capacitor "2" a little. Now I want to check the connections around. The Big Capacitor is closed and points 1,2 and 3 too. Is it supposed to be like this, or did I make a parasitic contact? Thanks for the answer

mklod · « **Reply #56 on:** July 31, 2023, 09:04:59 pm »

There were always times I wanted to pull out the FLIR - real quick - and I always had to plug it in and charge it for at least ten minutes before use. The horrible design cannot keep a charge in a quiescent state. But no more. Problem solved. The (absolutely useless) battery has been removed from FLIR camera, and the user experience is easily 10x better than before.

Credit is owed to Propretor for this idea. But it took me a lot of careful reading through this thread and testing so I thought I would write a complete guide in a single post.

Here is how I did it with my FLIR ONE PRO for MicroUSB:

Quote

Buy a generic mini buck module.

Disassemble flir one from its casing.

Reconnect FLIR to mobile device and probe FLIR PCB test pads for 5v. There should be a 5v pad directly next to the flex PCB that attaches the male USB connector to the rigid PCB.

Unplug the FLIR flex PCB.

Unplug the FLIR Lipo battery. Clip the battery leads close to the battery, leaving you with significant length of wires attached to original battery connector. Ignore the white wire (battery protection thermistor). White wire and battery protection is NOT required for proper function. Red and black leads are +/- 4vdc.

Wire the buck module inputs to a benchtop PSU. Use 5v out from PSU to buck input. Check buck's output with multimeter. Very gently, adjust the buck V_out by rotating its pot until V_out is approximately 4vdc.

Remove buck from PSU.

Solder the battery plug's red wire to buck V_out (4v output). Solder the battery plug's black wire to the buck GND.

Using good, no-clean flux, solder a 30awg wire lead from the 5v test pad on the FLIR PCB. Solder the other side of this wire to the buck module's V_in pad.

Plug the FLIR flex PCB back into the mainboard.

Plug the battery connector back into place.

Connect your mobile device to the FLIR with USB cable. The FLIR should turn on automatically and be recognized and connected by the mobile app, without having to press any button on the FLIR PCB. The FLIR app will read 100% battery from the device.

When I first did this mod, the LEDs on the FLIR PCB would flash green, the device would be recognized by the FLIR mobile app, but the FLIR device would seem to boot loop. The camera would never be successfully pulled up, and the flashing green LEDs would cycle to red LEDs. I was worried I had somehow damaged the PCB or the microUSB flex connection, but no. What happened was my FLIR lepton module (the larger black square camera module) became slightly unseated in its socket during disassembly. I applied gentle pressure to the top of the black plastic casing to ensure a good connection, and then all was well. Phew.

mklod · « **Reply #57 on:** July 31, 2023, 10:40:00 pm »

During reassembly, wrap the buck in kapton tape. You can reuse the piece of black foam from the old battery to keep it from moving around inside the FLIR casing.

Also, don't forget to 3d print a USB-C plug cover (to prevent yourself from ever plugging anything in to the now-defunct battery charging port) and salute your useless battery before tossing it in the ocean - err...I mean recycling it responsibly, of course.

mrnewlove · « **Reply #58 on:** September 06, 2023, 11:49:50 pm »

Has anyone tried to charge the phone+FLIR via the normal charge port after doing the 1-wire jumper for 5V between the two ports?

I am little nervous about trying it because I am not sure if the FLIR is actually doing authentication with the phone to deliver power out? Then the wall charger would be fighting with your phone's PD? Or would the phone be smart enough to then start charging instead?

Richales · « **Reply #59 on:** November 08, 2023, 01:47:35 pm »

@mklod
This is a brilliant write up and I'm going to embark on trying this too. One thing I did notice in your write up though was the description of the wiring differs from the image - specifically the two black wires into the Buck, they're reversed from the description. Would you mind clarifying which goes where please? I think I know the answer but would rather have my sanity checked first!
Thanks.

BlackBirdf · « **Reply #60 on:** November 15, 2023, 12:54:04 pm »

My battery also was a bloated mess, finally had to fix it. I actually managed to get away with replacing the battery with a capacitor, since I were too lazy to solder wires to the the PCB again (already got the 5V USB OTG to USB-Power wire mod installed). Only downside is, that you have to wait a few seconds till the camera "failed" to turn on automatically, because it sees a dead battery initially. Then you can actually turn on the camera normally, and it will see a 100% charged battery. So I guess the step down is technically still the superior solution, since apparently it turns on automatically right away? For someone feeling lazy this might be the easier solution, like if you already connected the power from the OTG port, or just want to power the camera externally and are too scared to solder on the main PCB.

I tested a 10V 220uF, which worked fine, but in the end used a 6.3V 1000uF cap I had laying around from salvaging.

PS: Ofc insulated the battery protection PCB and everything in (kapton) tape, before closing everything up.

muro · « **Reply #61 on:** December 03, 2023, 03:05:14 pm »

Has anyone tried to connect battery+ and USB+ directly?

Yeah that's me

I've been removing the battery and applying a step-down circuit as per the pioneers' instructions because I was afraid of losing my $200 toy.

However, I was using a slightly different step-down circuit (with a rheostat) and discovered that it had been putting out 4.8V all along.

Okay, 4.8V vs USB 5V? Why not?

I immediately removed the step-down circuit and connected USB vcc and battery +.

Long-term observations will be needed, but so far, so good.

The app is reporting 100% battery.

I tell myself that if this goes wrong, I'll have a good excuse to buy the latest version of the thermal imaging camera. hahaha

PS: I've been using it for two weeks since I wrote this post. It's been working very well with no heat


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