Disassemble a FLIR ONE PRO 3 Philip infrared camera 拆解一个FLIR ONE PRO 3菲力尔红外热像仪

[Dlman]

Hello everyone, finally found out why the reason why I can't register is because my mailbox is set to encrypt, the activation email is treated as garbage collection, and I am very happy to register now. In addition, my personal English is very poor. I use the post translated by Google Translate. Message h and reply, I hope everyone can take more care, the network will be as clear as possible, other words will not say more, everyone directly look at the dismantling photos I took, thank you!

[Dlman]

Continue to upload photos below

[Dlman]

2Continue to upload photos below

[Dlman]

3Continue to upload photos below

[Dlman]

Ok, let's upload this part of the photo first. If you need it, you can ask me, thank you.

[Mr. Scram]

An Atmel ARM chip. Interesting choice.

[mahony]

The relevant parts very much look like the internals of the FLIR One Gen2 - not absolutely sure about the processor but no huge improvements as far as I can see.

[pinchies]

Thank you very much for posting these photos - I couldn't figure out how to open it without seeing your first image of the screw covers.

The calibration shutter on Flir One Pro 3 stopped working, causing ghosting and retained images every time it tried to calibrate for nonuniformity. I disassembled the unit, and then reseated both the Lepton module and the shutter assembly, and it started working again. I suspect one of my rental clients dropped the unit and didn't tell me.

They do seem to be a little more fragile in field than would perhaps appear from the rugged exterior, but overall I have no complaints.

[shag]

What bit is used to take it apart? I've tried all my security torx and none work. It looks a little different than normal torx but I can't tell. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[shag]

用什么来将它拆开？ 我已经尝试了所有的安全等级，但没有任何效果。 它看起来与普通的Torx有点不同，但我无法分辨。 任何帮助是极大的赞赏！

[Propretor]

Hi! If you remove the battery from a imager Flir One Pro Gen3, will the imager work without a battery when voltage is applied to the Type-C charging connector?
Modify message

[Propretor]

What bit is used to take it apart? I've tried all my security torx and none work. It looks a little different than normal torx but I can't tell. Any help is greatly appreciated!

T5 !

[Fraser]

Propretor,

You have asked about the operation without a battery fitted in several threads and no one has responded so I thought I would.

I have not tested this so cannot really help but I can provide some comment.

The FlIR One G2 and G3 use a power management IC that controls the charging of the battery and power supply to the camera electronics. Such power management IC’s can have different ways of operating but these may be set at the time of camera manufacture. From memory the FLIR One operate as follows.....

1. Charger is connected to camera
2. Power management IC applies charge supply to Lithium Polymer Battery and monitors the battery state.
3. User request to switch on the camera MAY be accepted by the power management IC but some products are configured to lock out power to the camera electronics whilst charging. I seem to remember people applying external power whilst the camera was operating and it working however. Their cameras contained a working battery though.
4. The camera power management IC is designed to charge the Lithium Polymer battery and NOT run the camera. As such, if the Li-Polymer charger discovers no voltage at the battery terminals it will very likely go into an alarm state and the power management IC will lockout the charger and likely the camera power line as well. This is just good practice in a critical fault condition. The charger should not try to charge a Li-Polymer cell that has dropped to below its safe minimum terminal voltage.
5. It IS possible to power the camera by applying a supply directly to the Li-Polymer battery terminals and the Power Management IC will behave as though it has a fully charged battery connected. A fully charged Li-Polymer battery presents around 4.2V to the IC and not the 5V found on USB. The camera may tolerate the slight increase in supply voltage. The charging port on the camera is not directly connected to the Li-Polymer battery so that is not the same as connecting to the battery terminals.

So in Précis.... I would expect the cameras power management IC to go into alarm if no voltage is detected at the battery input terminals. The camera was never designed to be operated whilst connected to a charger and the user manual confirms that this should not be done. I would not expect the camera to start if the Li-Polymer battery is missing and this is supported by users experience of the FLIR One G2/G3 when a stored camera suffers a fully discharged battery that refuses to charge as it is locked out by the power management IC.

Fraser

[Denim]

I wired my Flir's usb out to the usb in charging port. My phone charges the flir while in use. It will stay fully charged until the phone battery dies. It does drain a lot of battery power, but I have not had any problems.

I tried to run it with no battery, It will power up for a second with no battery, but quickly powers back down.

I blocked out were I have the positive wired to cause I can't be sure it would not cause damage eventually. I have been using it for a year and no issues, if you try it, do so at your own risk.

[Propretor]

Fraser, thanks!

Denim, There is 1 question and 1 comment.
1.Why did you cover the junction in the photo with black?
2.The second connection is not necessary in your case: both USB connectors have a common ground. One connection is enough.
3.This is a bad decision. Not every smartphone will allow you to power the imager and charge the imager battery at the same time. Too much current - 1-1.5 amperes!

[Propretor]

I blocked out were I have the positive wired to cause I can't be sure it would not cause damage eventually.

I did not understand what was written. What did you mean?

[Denim]

I blocked it out so people would not blindly follow what I did.

The phone does not power the imager at all, the battery is the only thing powering it.

I don't really remember cause I did it so long ago, but I doubt the ground is common. I would have picked up on it when I tested the points.

[Propretor]

I blocked it out so people would not blindly follow what I did.

It would be very interesting to see how you cut the Type-C connector from the board.

[Denim]

I didn't do anything with the usb-c connector, the connecter is on a ribbon with a detachable connector that I removed to get it out of the way.

I tried to solder the usb-c points directly, but it was too small for me to solder onto, so I found alternative points on the board that had vcc and gnd.

[Propretor]

I didn't do anything with the usb-c connector, the connecter is on a ribbon with a detachable connector that I removed to get it out of the way.
I tried to solder the usb-c points directly, but it was too small for me to solder onto, so I found alternative points on the board that had vcc and gnd.

You did not understand me. I mean how you isolated the USB Type-C for charging from the imager board. I meant the place that you painted in black.

[Denim]

I followed the vcc traces on the usb-c connector up to what it connected to. Plugged in a usb-c cable that I cut open and checked that the lead had continuity with the contact point I found earlier.

[pacukas]

fantastic!

I used to solder only 1 wire for connecting two + connections between 2 usb ports in Flir,

 all works now , the flir is charged via phone USB!

so 1 wire hack is enough here:)
no need for ground wire.

another 2 features we got after this upgrade to Flir:
when you plug the Flir into the phone USB, Flir automatically starts.
when you take out Flir from phone USB,  Flir automatically shuts down.

my hack photo attached.

I take no responsibility if you solder wrongly, so you damage the device, please be carefull! the wires and connections are very small!

[Fraser]

My only concern with this mod is the warning on page 2 of the user manual. It states that the FLIR One camera is not intended to be charged whilst in use. That could, in reality mean nothing bad will happen, but it does make me think some caution and testing is needed. Such as trying to use the camera when the battery is flat and taking power from the host..... does the power management IC overheat when powering both the camera and battery charger ? I have met several systems in the past that state the user should not use the system whilst it is charging for reasons of thermal dissipation and potential overheating.

https://docs.rs-online.com/7cf1/0900766b81622027.pdf

Fraser

[pacukas]

agree, haven't tested it for more than 1 hrs,   dont know what will happen if used for longly.

I have just returned from outside - worked about 45 mins with Flir on,
I was doing all stuff in -15 cold outside, so no overheating, device is frozen as ice when back to home

but what a difference! no power outs, no apps crashes, nothing as was before due to power losses from crappy inner battery!

Now when power was fed constantly from powerful Samsung s20+ battery (4400 mAh capacity) I just lost about 10 % in phone battery during that time.

[Fraser]

  Great result 

To test fir potential issues you need to let the FLIR One internal battery discharge for a while so the charge circuit has to do some work rather than sitting in standby because the battery is fully charged. This would simulate the self discharge that these cameras exhibit when not used for a while. Only then will you truly know if the camera design tolerates powering the camera whilst also charging the battery at the same time.

Fraser