FLIR E4 - The useful information thread

[wilheldp]

Jeez...$36 for 15 cents worth of ABS.  If anybody wants some E4 lens holders, I'll print them for you.  We'll put the price at $5 + shipping.  Have your choice of color between black, white, red and green, which is what I have right now.

[iDevice]

With the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.
The Chinese CO2 laser cutter lenses you can get from ebay just clip in nicely and firmly, so no risk of glue damage.

Hmmm...this is not the case for me.  I used georges80 design, with 20mm diameter lens (from the Chinese eBay seller), and the lens is a loose fit --- no clip in; the lens will drop straight out. 

What design lens holder and diameter lens did you use?

I used georges80 file and had it printed by LuneValley3D in UK.
My first lens was a f:50mm by 20mm diameter from the usual Chinese shop on ebay.
LuneValley3D is probably a small one person business as they are quite slow and not very responsive but print quality is excellent and the lens did snap tightly in, I had to really push hard to get it to fit in.
Unfortunately, I soon discovered that 50mm is much too close-up for many uses, so I reprinted the same file a second time via LuneValley3D (was even slower but they apologized, putting it on too much success). The quality of the print was a bit lower, but the second lens (a 100mm this time)  did fit in as tightly as with the first combo.

So, maybe printing via LuneValley3D is the key here, I don't know, but I can say that even though communication is sometime slow, when they eventually deliver, the prints are very good, actually better that you would expect from a filament based 3D printer. (they are using ReplicatorII's)

[Sparky]

Thanks Aurora and iDevice for your further comments. 

@Aurora: It is clear now that I significantly overpaid for the 3D print.  At the time, I really did not understand why there is a "setup fee", since there is not even a need to convert from the STL file or anything...  Now I realize many people do not charge such a fee.  In the short term, I will probably use LuneValley3D, until I find an alternative.

You are right, I already have the 50mm FL lens, so I only plan to get the 75mm and 100mm.  I will take your advice and simply get two more of georges80 lens holder made --- it will be the cheapest and simplest solution.  I have already ordered the lenses.

@iDevice: My experience is very similar to yours --- I had got the 50mm FL lens, but found occasions that it is too close (sometimes due to obstructions on the circuit, or a housing of the circuit board, prevent getting the camera close), so I am getting the longer focal lengths to accommodate these uses.


Also, it's time to mount the E4 on a tripod, so I will try georges80 e4_holder_v2.  At the moment I am thinking to have a 3/8"-16 to 1/4"-20 adapter (see pic attached) inserted in the holder.  Did anyone do it differently?  I wonder if anyone used a 1/4"-20 thread directly into the holder?  Will appreciate to hear peoples experiences!

Cheers!

[g137556s]

Does anyone know the highest serial number that I should look for  on an E4 for the desirable firmware?

[Fraser]

Please look at page 2 of this thread for your answer

[tmiller]

Just for completeness,

E4 v1.0
6390686x
Cal 13 Nov 13 Estonia
FW 1.19.8

[Whizbang]

I have an E4 with FW 1.19.8. I did the basic update/mod and it improved my resolution, but I want all the bells and whistles. Mostly I want the digital zoom and additional color pallets but my update didn't "unlock" those features. I went through the blog, but there is a lot of info here and I think I am reading over it and missing it.

Since I already have completed the basic update (I used the download e4hack3C), what are my next steps to "complete" the upgrade and get all of the features?

Do I have to uninstall the mod? Can anyone point me in the right direction or post directions. I don't want the rndis update. I just want the different color pallets, zoom and what ever else I can get without extensive hacking.

Thanks,
Whizbang

[all_repair]

Jeez...$36 for 15 cents worth of ABS.  If anybody wants some E4 lens holders, I'll print them for you.  We'll put the price at $5 + shipping.  Have your choice of color between black, white, red and green, which is what I have right now.

I would have taken up your offer if I did not aleady make a few from my hot glue gun.  I used 2 circular cap, bigger one that fix the E4 and a smaller that is of diameter 20mm, pumped a lot of hot glue to form the holder.   A long nut is installed for easy removal.  Remember to paste a layer of aluminum foil or mylar tape to the castings for easy removal of the lens holder when making the holder.

[ErchAngel]

Do I have to uninstall the mod? Can anyone point me in the right direction or post directions. I don't want the rndis update. I just want the different color pallets, zoom and what ever else I can get without extensive hacking.

To my knowledge the only way to do the menu mod is via RNDIS. Follow these instructions, and you should be good to go: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426

Worked fine for me, just note that it won't work in Windows 8.1 (didn't for me anyway), had to use Windows 7.

[Whizbang]

Do I have to uninstall the mod? Can anyone point me in the right direction or post directions. I don't want the rndis update. I just want the different color pallets, zoom and what ever else I can get without extensive hacking.

To my knowledge the only way to do the menu mod is via RNDIS. Follow these instructions, and you should be good to go: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426

Worked fine for me, just note that it won't work in Windows 8.1 (didn't for me anyway), had to use Windows 7.

I followed nearly identical instructions using the e4hack3 files (RNDIS). I reviewed the flashfs\system\appcore.d\config.d\e8.cfg to compare and see if i missed anything regarding the zoom and according to the instructions posted at the link above I have it right. My script reads...

.caps.config.image.zoom.enabled bool true

but I have no zoom icon. Is there something else i need to check? Or what would you recommend?

Thanks.

[Sparky]

I received an ABS print of the E4 holder design by georges80.  It's nice and solid --- makes a secure grip around the handle of the E4.  Excellent design George!  I also got a couple of 3/16" to 1/4" threaded adapters, thinking they would be suitable to mount into the holder and allow me to attach my tripod plate.

However, as you'll note in the pictures attached, the threaded section of the 3/16" adapter is barely a couple of threads long!  The adapter and tripod plate are made for attaching to the body of cameras, which accommodate only small length screws. 

I do not think the threaded adapter is going to work well.  Instead, I am considering making an aluminium bracket to fit my tripod (instead of using the plate shown in the photos), and put a 3/16" screw in it directly.

How have other people mounted their E4 holders to their tripods?

Best!

[Fraser]

I had to import the longer threaded inserts that Georges80 used. I could not find them in the UK.

An alternative that I considered was a thick aluminium plate that would be screwed to the adapter. The aluminium plate would have a 1/4" 20TPI tripod thread in it to take the tripod screw. This approach would spread the load over several well spaced screws, rather than relying on the single threaded insert.....BUT I was uncertain how much solid plastic would exist on the plastic mount into which to tap the plate securing screws. The 3D printed bracket is actually a honeycomb design with a thin solid vaneer on its surface.. Hence why I went for Georges solution in the end. The inserts came from the USA and are the type used in modelleing, with razor sharp external cutting threads. Mine are made from brass and designed for use in plastics but were still a challenge to fit !

Aurora

[Fraser]

Information direct from FLIR on the E4 microbolometer

I wrote to FLIR regarding temperature stability. Today I received a very helpful response to my questions. I asked them if the microbolometer in the E4 is temperature stabilised with a TEC and whether the camera will cope with an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees Celcius. I further asked what type of microbolometer was installed.

The response surprised me. As ever FLIR were very helpful on the tech side, but I was not expecting what was stated in the comments. I reproduce the response here:


There is nothing particular about 30?C besides the fact that most cameras happen to be running at 30-35?C during the production process. It is very probable that they will produce good accurate readings under such conditions. The assumption that they must deteriorate under other conditions is perhaps likely, but definitely not always true. It all depends on how fast and well the temperature drift stabilization math copes with the changed conditions. In Ex, a standard compensation is being used, and it will work better in some cameras and worse in others.

Since the Ex cameras do not contain any germanium optics (which starts to get dim at about 50?C), nothing drastic is expected to happen with the accuracy above 50?C. But, you are then using the camera outside of the specification limits.

To answer your questions: The Ex detector is not stabilized in any way. Neither heated nor cooled. The Ex detector is made of Vanadium Oxide.


So there you have it, from the people who know, the E4 is running bareback without ANY temperature stabilisation of the microbolometer. From a TIC design point of view this is interesting as I was aware that maths could be used to remove the need for the TEC but I was not expecting it in the E4. The comment on the issues of Germanium optics was very interesting. I was already aware that Germanium lenses start to lose transmission efficiency at 100 Degrees Celcius and above. As we know the Ex series uses the Chalcogenide-Glass lens material that obviously does not suffer such effects, or less so anyway. Without testing, I cannot say how well the maths algorithms map the microbolometer drift but FLIR are experts in the field so it may do a half decent job on SOME cameras.

My thanks to FLIR for responding on these questions so fully, so that I have a better understanding of my E4 cameras limitations. If I am working in high temperature environments, I will use the PM695's.

Aurora

[mikeselectricstuff]

Presumably the "~" indication at startup is looking at rate of change rather than control status. I would presume that there is an on-die temperature sensor as well as the frame temp sensor

[OrBy]

I would presume that there is an on-die temperature sensor as well as the frame temp sensor

76800 of them to be exact!  (just joking around)

[Fraser]

Mike

This news might also explain why your E4 went into orbit when you applied freezer spray to the frame temp sensor ! The microbolometer temperature compensation algorithm must have gone into uncharted waters in response 

[Whizbang]

Hey guys I need some help.

I did the standard E4 Hack from mikes post. I used the zip e4hack3c modified the text zipped it and used flir tools to put it on the camera.  I did not do rndis, I'm worried I would brick it if I tried.  In my e4 config I have this line:

.caps.config.image.zoom.enabled bool true   <- shouldn't this enable zoom?

Is there a way to get zoom out of this camera with out doing the rndis hack because I have already performed the other one.

Thanks guys.

[mikeselectricstuff]

Hey guys I need some help.

I did the standard E4 Hack from mikes post. I used the zip e4hack3c modified the text zipped it and used flir tools to put it on the camera.  I did not do rndis, I'm worried I would brick it if I tried.  In my e4 config I have this line:

.caps.config.image.zoom.enabled bool true   <- shouldn't this enable zoom?

Is there a way to get zoom out of this camera with out doing the rndis hack because I have already performed the other one.

Thanks guys.

You also need the menu hack to enable zoom.

[Corn]

It seems you need to be connected to internet for the camera to be able to connect with pc by the flir device drivers. I don't like this as what if it will restore original resolution to the camera without asking. Any thoughts?

[RAWebb]

No, you should be able to establish an RNDIS connection to the camera without having another network adapter active. Indeed, that is the recommended approach: disconnect all other networks and ensure the camera is selected to RNDIS USB mode.

I've had the most success when I connect the camera's USB with the camera powered off. Turning the camera on brings up the RNDIS connection. Note that it is not instantaneous -- give the PC and camera a few moments to get through discovery and handshake. Run ipconfig (PC command line utility) and you should see that your PC gets a 192.168.x.x IP from the camera.

[mago]

Hi all,

i need to give my E4 a new, much smaller "case". I follwed mike's teardown video, but i need a new button plate because the original one is embedded into back case, which is hard to unmount. I'm looking to reproduce signals in the flat cable, which has 8 pins (actually, there are 8 "buttons" on the plate, including 4-direction joystick).
I'm not an electronic guy, but i think they simply close a circuit over a common ground but, after a continuity test, i found only 2 pins shorting while pressing buttons.
Any help/info to find out pinout?

[tjb1]

Has anyone found a screen protector that fits these? I scratched mine just wiping the screen with a microfiber.

[mikeselectricstuff]

Hi all,

i need to give my E4 a new, much smaller "case". I follwed mike's teardown video, but i need a new button plate because the original one is embedded into back case, which is hard to unmount. I'm looking to reproduce signals in the flat cable, which has 8 pins (actually, there are 8 "buttons" on the plate, including 4-direction joystick).
I'm not an electronic guy, but i think they simply close a circuit over a common ground but, after a continuity test, i found only 2 pins shorting while pressing buttons.
Any help/info to find out pinout?

From memory I'm fairly sure power pin is definitely a short to ground, the others are probably a matrix - the 6 remaining pins are probably either 2x4 or 3x3 for the 7 other buttons.
Should be easy enough to map out with a meter.
Note that if doing something more ambitious that just re-casing, you can emulate button presses via the serial console or via the TELNET console (not sure if this exists on FW 1.2x+)

[SeanB]

Screen protector is easy, just go buy a big 10 inch tablet screen protector and cut to size with a sharp pair of scissors. You can get a few out of each sheet this way cheaply.

[tjb1]

I made a new lens holder that uses quite a bit less material and the camera is almost fully unobstructed (if you wanted to use it) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299482