Poll

Has the hackabiliy of the E4 made you buy one :  

Yes, I was already looking at the competition at a similar price, but the hack swung it to E4
250 (26.8%)
Yes, I'd not considered buying a TIC before, but 320x240 resolution at this price justifies it (as either tool or toy!)
433 (46.4%)
Yes, I was going to buy an E5/6/8 class of unit but will now get the E4
45 (4.8%)
No, but am looking out for a cheap i3 to hack
46 (4.9%)
Not yet, but probably will if now that a closed-box hack becomes is possible
160 (17.1%)

Total Members Voted: 768

Author Topic: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown  (Read 2853918 times)

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Offline Twitch

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4375 on: March 15, 2014, 12:41:48 am »
Hi folks,

I have an issue with the MSX image alignment.  It seems the distance / fine tuning only adjusts the image up and down.  I have an issue with the MSX outline image being offset to the right.  The further away I am, the more drastic the ghost image is off center. 

Do any of you know of a way to calibrate this or adjust the camera image back to the left so it's on center? 

This is a 1.19.8 camera upgraded to the E8+ so I really don't want to send it in to FLIR. 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Offline Nemonic

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4376 on: March 15, 2014, 01:01:45 am »
PM your email address to me, I will send my FlashBFS folder to you! FW 1.19.8, HW 1.0
Here you can dl the file flir_ex_pn639_v1.18.7_update_pack.zip (http://en.file-upload.net/download-8686493/flir_ex_pn639_v1.18.7_update_pack.zip.html).

Thanks, i've tried a few times and two methods to send a PM with the details, if you don't have it i will just post my address here anyway.
 

Offline Chorleybloke

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4377 on: March 15, 2014, 10:48:15 am »
Hello all, after swapping the conf file to the new version then back again, whichever way i do it, either with mine altered or the template with the tools, or even a modified version of the thread. Im getting the same results, when upgraded i loose msx and a few other options as mentioned previously.

The upgraded image looks much better but im sure still has the lower res but much less noise giving the appearance of a higher quality. I noted that in the conf file there is a lie relating to noise. old figure 135 while he upgrade is  only 5.

Is it that its just a reduction in noise and not more res?
 

Offline stefbeer

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4378 on: March 15, 2014, 11:06:23 am »
The first image seems to have no radiometrical data in it but to my eye that still looks like 80x60.
The second image looks like a "normal" E4 image, 80x60 resolution, radiometrical data and MSX.

I think your camera is not accepting your new config file. In the old config file there is a noise of 135 (whichever unit that may be) added. The new one is not valid or not accepted, so the camera probably assumes a noise value of 0.
Functions like the spot measurement and MSX or saving the radiometrical data in the JPG are enabled via the config file. Invalid config file -> those functions don't get enabled.
 

Offline Chorleybloke

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4379 on: March 15, 2014, 12:03:05 pm »
The first image seems to have no radiometrical data in it but to my eye that still looks like 80x60.
The second image looks like a "normal" E4 image, 80x60 resolution, radiometrical data and MSX.

I think your camera is not accepting your new config file. In the old config file there is a noise of 135 (whichever unit that may be) added. The new one is not valid or not accepted, so the camera probably assumes a noise value of 0.
Functions like the spot measurement and MSX or saving the radiometrical data in the JPG are enabled via the config file. Invalid config file -> those functions don't get enabled.

Hi Stefbeer, the first image (with no radiometrical data) is as it came brand new from the factory, hence my initial comment a while back that it was rubbish. The second image is much improved yet the resolution is not. If i take an image and view the image info, it does say that it is 320 x 240, yet its obviously not.

Have you any idea of what I can do.
 

Offline stefbeer

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4380 on: March 15, 2014, 12:39:12 pm »
With "the first image" I meant the one with the filename FLIR0281.jpg, and the second one with file name FLIR0282.jpg .
If you look at the image info in for example Windows Explorer, you only see the resolution of the JPG file, which is always at 320x240. But crucial is the thermal resolution which you only can see in the FLIR Tools software or on the camera when you open up the gallery, open a picture, push the center button and choose "Information". Then a box appears which shows some information about the picture (especially the thermal resolution). But I'm pretty sure for the file FLIR0281.jpg you won't see the thermal resolution becaus it does not contain any thermal information.

I tried to PM you but it doesen't seem to have worked.
You could upload your own original (EDIT: the one from your initial backup, that came with your camera) conf.cfc here and I'll do the modification of the file for you. :)
« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 12:44:46 pm by stefbeer »
 

Offline RAWebb

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4381 on: March 15, 2014, 02:00:23 pm »
Hi folks,

I have an issue with the MSX image alignment.  It seems the distance / fine tuning only adjusts the image up and down.  I have an issue with the MSX outline image being offset to the right.  The further away I am, the more drastic the ghost image is off center. 

Do any of you know of a way to calibrate this or adjust the camera image back to the left so it's on center? 

This is a 1.19.8 camera upgraded to the E8+ so I really don't want to send it in to FLIR. 

Any help would be appreciated.

Look back onto the first page of the thread for Mike's teardown video and you'll see how the visible-light camera is installed in the body of the E4. Apparently yours was misaligned a bit during assembly but from the video it looks like it should be fairly easy to reposition.

Getting down to the visible-light camera isn't that difficult but do not follow Mike's example step-by-step -- there's an access to one screw that will make you cringe but right after that he demonstrates how to get to it without the errrr... brutality of his initial attempt.

Observe normal ESD precautions, work in a clean area, avoid cat hairs, etc.
 

Offline tomas123

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4382 on: March 15, 2014, 03:36:03 pm »
Don't disassemble!

Edit the calibration values for the camera...

Code: [Select]
$ exiftool -offset* FLIR0230.jpg
Offset X                        : -4
Offset Y                        : +21

see my post here for details
http://u88.n24.queensu.ca/exiftool/forum/index.php?topic=4898.msg24156#msg24156

Offline Twitch

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4383 on: March 15, 2014, 06:00:46 pm »
Don't disassemble!

Edit the calibration values for the camera...

Code: [Select]
$ exiftool -offset* FLIR0230.jpg
Offset X                        : -4
Offset Y                        : +21

see my post here for details
http://u88.n24.queensu.ca/exiftool/forum/index.php?topic=4898.msg24156#msg24156

I'm not sure I understand.  How do I locate the offset values to change them?  Where are these values in the camera's firmware?
 

Offline tomas123

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4384 on: March 15, 2014, 06:14:44 pm »
edit the calibration file and calc a new CRC32

Code: [Select]
$ cat /FlashFS/system/calib.rsc | grep fusion.leExFOL7
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7 index
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C0X double -0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C0Y double 8.3035752
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C1X double -11.721635
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C1Y double 6.5931212
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C2X double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C2Y double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C3X double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C3Y double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.CT double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.T0 double 304.34131
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.fixFusionDistance double 3
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.isMeasured bool true
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.magnQuote double 1.3050345
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.mathVersion int32 100
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.minPanX double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.minPanY double 0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.minZoom double 1
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.rotAngle double -0.21724635
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.type int32 100
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.visualFocus int32 0

check with
Code: [Select]
$ exiftool -offset* FLIR0230.jpg
Offset X                        : xxx
Offset Y                        : yyy

and report here your resolution of problem (excel ?) ...



see here for CRC32 keygen


Looks like it is just a standard 32 bit CRC like used in the ZIP format. Here's a short python script to calculate it for a file:

Code: [Select]
import sys
import zlib
with open(sys.argv[1], 'r') as fp:
    crc = zlib.crc32(fp.read()) & 0xffffffff
    print '0x%08x' % crc

Have you checked this with any of the files?

Yep, I tried it on several of the .rsc files. Just have to delete the existing CRC line before using.

check your crc32 algorithm against a known *.rsc ...

Offline Chorleybloke

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4385 on: March 15, 2014, 06:23:34 pm »
With "the first image" I meant the one with the filename FLIR0281.jpg, and the second one with file name FLIR0282.jpg .
If you look at the image info in for example Windows Explorer, you only see the resolution of the JPG file, which is always at 320x240. But crucial is the thermal resolution which you only can see in the FLIR Tools software or on the camera when you open up the gallery, open a picture, push the center button and choose "Information". Then a box appears which shows some information about the picture (especially the thermal resolution). But I'm pretty sure for the file FLIR0281.jpg you won't see the thermal resolution becaus it does not contain any thermal information.

I tried to PM you but it doesen't seem to have worked.
You could upload your own original (EDIT: the one from your initial backup, that came with your camera) conf.cfc here and I'll do the modification of the file for you. :)



Many thanks Stefbeer :-+

I now have a super E4, sorry for all the posting, but it just proves even simple folk with very little experience can do great things. Although i'm fully aware that a little knowledge can be dangerous.!!!!

Thanks again.
 

Offline tomas123

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4386 on: March 15, 2014, 07:07:51 pm »
a crc32 sample on command line

Code: [Select]
// count lines
$ wc -l FlashFS/system/calib.rsc
     801 FlashFS/system/calib.rsc

//print last line
$ tail -n1  FlashFS/system/calib.rsc
# CRC32 ef8f7e0e

//calc a new crc32 for 801-1=800 lines
$ crc32 <(head -n 800 FlashFS/system/calib.rsc)
ef8f7e0e


Offline Twitch

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4387 on: March 16, 2014, 12:21:25 am »
tomas123 - Thank you, that partially fixed the issue. 

I changed line:
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.minPanX double 0
to
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.minPanX double 9.8

This now aligns perfectly on 1x zoom 

The strange thing is if I zoom to 2x, 4x or 8x it one again shows the ghost image offset to the right just as it did on 1x.  But if I go back to 1x the image is centered.   Any ideas on how to fix the 2x, 4x and 8x settings?
« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 12:44:53 am by Twitch »
 

Offline tomas123

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4388 on: March 16, 2014, 12:54:36 am »
you changed the wrong parameter - minPanX is not a calibration value

only change values, which are unequal to zero:

Code: [Select]
$ cat /FlashFS/system/calib.rsc | grep fusion.leExFOL7
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7 index
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C0X double -0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C0Y double 8.3035752
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C1X double -11.721635
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C1Y double 6.5931212

see here for details

For a given userDistance z the shift d ((x,y)panVal = floor(d)) between visual and thermal image is calculated by

Code: [Select]
d(z) = c1 + c0/z                        (1)
with c0 and c1 being constant values that are factory calibrated into your cam. d, c0 and c1 are 2-dimensional (x,y), units are [px] for d and c1, [m] for z and [px*m] for c0. The coordinate system starts with (0,0) in the upper left corner, d is the shift of the visual image relative to the thermal image (see below for example).

The constants c0 and c1 are provided by \FlashFS\system\calib.rsc, here are mine:

Code: [Select]
...
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C0X double -0
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C0Y double 8.1835451
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C1X double -8.0483421
.calib.visual.fusion.leExFOL7.C1Y double -2.2975248
...

There are more parameters important for MSX (zoom, rotation, ...), but I didn't need to touch them. So I'm only covering horizontal and vertical shift here.

You have at least two options to calculate new constants for your calibration file:

1) You could set these four parameters to zero, copy the resulting file with a new CRC32 back to the cam, overwriting the original one (keep a backup!) and reboot the E4. To recalculate new values for c0 and c1 you need to get at least two MSX images A and B with some distance between them, determine dA(zA) as well as dB(zB) and solve the system of linear equations to:

Code: [Select]
c0 = (dA - dB)/(1/zA - 1/zB)            (2)
c1 = (dA*zA - dB*zB)/(zA - zB)          (3)

Hint for the sign of d: if your visual image appears 5px to the top and 3px to the left of your thermal image, then d = (-3px, -5px).
Note that you don't need to configure z in the cams settings for this, with c0=c1=(0,0) while measuring, (x,y)panVal will be 0 for all z as well.

2) I found it easier to use rset to modify xpanVal and ypanVal (see Tauchers post) on my connected E4, until my MSX images looked the way I wanted. You may want to temporarily disable auto calibration while doing this or wait for the cam to settle.
I started with a very distant object, in my case it was a street light about 50m away, a building front with windows will also work. Now you already have c1, because c1 = d for large z. Then you need a second image of a nearby object, it should be small and centered in your image to minimize error. I used my doors peep hole at about 25cm away and adjusted (x,y)panVal and the distance to get a proper fit. Now you can use equation (1) to get c0.

My new calibration file obtained by 2) worked great, at least indoors, distant objects were still off by 3px. Reason: the configurable userDistance in the cams settings ends with ">3" (cam uses z=3m then), which makes it impossible to reach c1 for infinity. I decided to overcorrect my parameters and used my obtained c1 as if it were dA at zA=3m and calculated new constants with (2) and (3). Now I have perfect MSX even for great distances, while indoors my actual z slightly differs from the configured userDistance. However, I think it would be a better solution to have additional menue entries for greater distances (e.g. ">10").

Another thing worth mentioning: The cam doesn't round() the result for (x,y)panVal, it just chops off everything following the decimal point. So if your dy results to 5.99px at z=3m you'll end up with a 5px shift being used. You may want to adjust the constants to avoid this and could use rls .image.fusion to see the actual values the cam is using.

and here is the link to tauchers post (variant 2)
Query MSX distance from console:

EDIT - Adjusting MSX once somebody played too much with the camera: ;)
fist backup all old values
-> rls .image.fusion
-> write them down, pipe them to file, back them up etc...!
then measure the distance between your camera and some testpattern in cm - set that as MSX distance value
check congruency for the image center AND check if the corners align as well, if not
then adjust xpanVal until the error (if any) is symmetric (keep distance fixed)

zoomFactor and ypanVal should only be touched if you realy understand what you're doing and have to touch them :)
Never touch the Alpha value, you'll need to powercycle the cam to restore MSX as the value will be auto-zeroed if changed.

Offline Twitch

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4389 on: March 16, 2014, 01:22:40 am »
tomas123 - The info helped a lot, I've got it centered at all zoom levels now. 

Thank you very much for the help, I really do appreciate you taking the time to explain everything for me.
 

Offline tomas123

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4390 on: March 16, 2014, 01:38:55 am »
 My pleasure! :)

In my first post I forgot the post from user schdiewen.
This thread is a pain.

See my tag
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg342072/#msg342072
for a collection of the "best of tutorials"

you can now go to the temperature calibration values ;-)

Offline kff

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4391 on: March 16, 2014, 02:28:53 am »
Hi all. Got an E4 camera a few days ago and really happy with it so far. One thing I noticed is that after the camera has been on for a few minutes, a small bright spot (maybe 2-3C temperature difference) appears in one part of the image. There is also a similarly sized dark spot nearby. I think someone in this thread mentioned that it might be a speck of dust on the sensor, although I am not sure why the spots only appears after a few minutes. I also noticed that there is a bit of banding in the image -- slightly off-color "stripes" that make the image non-uniform. What I am wondering is how common these problems are. It's pretty easy for me to exchange the camera, but should I expect  the new camera to be any better? Do you find that the image on your camera is close to perfect, or are these minor spots / bands expected in this price range? Thanks!
 

Offline emptech

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4392 on: March 16, 2014, 04:20:02 am »
Does anyone know if the MSX feature can be added to an e40?  I've already upgraded my e40 to an e60, upped the resolution and added more features.  MSX seems to be the difference between the eXX models and the eXXbx models.  Looks like just an additional s/w tool.  All the hardware is there, just another way to manipulate the IR and visible light photos.  I see the eX series has that feature, seems reasonable some of the files would work on the e40.  Is it in the beta3 stuff?

Jim
« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 04:25:10 am by emptech »
"What this country needs is less people telling us what this country needs"
 

Offline tomas123

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4393 on: March 16, 2014, 10:59:50 am »
If you have a Exx without MSX (year 2012) you can activate the MSX menu but you only see a live real image on the LCD.
If you take a picture, then you save a normal MSX jpg on your SD card.

I think, the MSX code is embedded in the windows CE binaries but not in the fpga code.

You can take PiP images and convert then with Flir Tools to MSX images.

Or see my footnote for other program code for converting RAW images.

Offline Chorleybloke

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4394 on: March 16, 2014, 11:22:35 am »
Hi all. Got an E4 camera a few days ago and really happy with it so far. One thing I noticed is that after the camera has been on for a few minutes, a small bright spot (maybe 2-3C temperature difference) appears in one part of the image. There is also a similarly sized dark spot nearby. I think someone in this thread mentioned that it might be a speck of dust on the sensor, although I am not sure why the spots only appears after a few minutes. I also noticed that there is a bit of banding in the image -- slightly off-color "stripes" that make the image non-uniform. What I am wondering is how common these problems are. It's pretty easy for me to exchange the camera, but should I expect  the new camera to be any better? Do you find that the image on your camera is close to perfect, or are these minor spots / bands expected in this price range? Thanks!

Hi,

I have a similar situation, very very faint vertical bands and a ghost spot center bottom, with the vast improvement i now in performance (thanks to all the help on here ;D) I'm not too concerned. I expect that it is possible its down to a spec, that, as the unit warms up become more noticeable due too temperature differential??? The spot and lines are only visible when the temperature is almost uniform, say a wall that has an even temp. all over.

It wasn't possible for me to see before upgrade as my image was full of noise.
 

Online Fraser

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4395 on: March 16, 2014, 01:08:49 pm »
There was quite a bit of discussion regarding image banding, the reason for noise generation, and the bright or dark spots on an image. Sadly those 'conversations' are burried somewhere in this massive thread  :(

In precis, AFAIK, the microbolometers in the Ex series are all the same but there MAY be some 'binning' of units depending upon the number of failed pixels and/or arifacts detected. I say may, as most microbolometers that have been tested for dead pixels passed the required 99.8% active specification for such a FLIR sensor array. It may well be that the E8 gets the very best performing sensor as its higher resolution may show artifacts more etc. No proof of that though.

In standard E4 rig, any issues with the microbolometer are effectively countered by the averaging and processing ofr the 4x4 pixel clusters used to create an 80x60 image. When you release the cameras full potential you may see issues that were previously not visible. This is a potential penalty for running the E4 beyond its specs but such occurances appear to be so minor or rare as to be of no consequence for most users.

The issue of bright and dark spots on an image have been diagnosed as dust on the sensor in many cases. Some users have blown the dust off of the sensor but I advise some caution here..... removing the lens (using the correct tool!) DOES give you access to the microbolometer faceplate on which the dust resides, but using an air duster to blow on it is a risk if done carelessly. An appropriate coated optics rated air duster that does not contain agressive chemicals should be used (if its designed for cleaning computer keyboards...its not likely suitable for coated optics use !) and consideration should be given to the risk of making matters worse by disturbing more dust particles sitting around the optical block and the sensor with the jet of air. You could end up with a 'snow storm' on the sensors face ! Normally it is best to dismantle the camera and remove the parts that surrond the microbolometer in order to give it a proper optical clean using filtered dry air at an angle rather than direct into the face of the sensor. It should also be considered that firing a powerful air duster directly at a thin optical window structure can break it   :o so avoid any high pressure air lines as used for workshops ! Dismantling the E4 optical block is not for the faint hearted especially if you do not do such activities for a living.

If there are dust spots visible on the microbolometer at 320x240, but not at 80x60, you cannot use dust contamination of the microbolometer sensor as the reason for exchange when returning a unit (think about it  ;) )
« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 01:38:01 pm by Aurora »
 

Offline kanzas19

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4396 on: March 16, 2014, 05:53:59 pm »
Perhaps someone has already asked that, but I can not find the answer.
Is it possible to upgrade the camera Flir E40 to 320x240?
If so, whether this is done the same way as the E4?
 


Offline mrflibble

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4398 on: March 16, 2014, 06:20:51 pm »
Why newbies don't use a search before asking?
Enabled spoon feeding is far lazier. Duh.
 

Offline pomonabill221

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Re: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown
« Reply #4399 on: March 16, 2014, 06:50:24 pm »
@Aruora...
I totally agree about "blowing" off the microb. with canned air!

Also, if you watch mikeselectricstuff's video on the teardown, he shows a closeup of the microb. and the EXPOSED bond wires!!!!

If you were to use canned air at the wrong angle, you could move/bend the bond wires around and either short a few together, or actually break them or rip them off their bond pads!

This could easily be done as they are NOT "potted" and are just "flappin' in the breeze".  Even using a camera brush would be a BIG no-no!

So EXTREME caution MUST be used to clean the microb.!
 


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