Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown

[dustout]

With these instructions I successfully updated my i3 from 80x80 to 144x144 resolution. This sticks and survives rebooting unlike the temporary service mode. Awesome! Note that I did not update the file modified timestamp yet and it still survived reboots. One thing to also be careful with is to keep the CRLF characters at the end of the CRC line. I don't know if it's sensitive to that but it's worth noting.

if anyone is still afraid to permanently hack his\her i3\i5 here is simple step by step guide

read post #524 https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg321956/#msg321956

1. power on camera

2. press menu button once

3. press play (gallery) button for 5 seconds

4. switch to RNDIS usb mode

5. install flir drivers on your pc

6. connect camera to pc, give it a minute to install and start

7. connect to camera's ftp server at 192.168.0.2 user:flir password:3vlig with ftp client capable of passive mode i.e. total commander

8. make full backup of filesystem to a secure location

9. download mike's crc01 tool from this https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg321956/#msg321956 post

10. install some proper text editor i.e. notepad++ (and enable showing all characters in view \ show symbols)

11. open backup\FlashFS\system\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg

12. remove last line that says

Code: [Select]

# CRC01 ????????

13. replace number at the end of   ||.caps.config.image.settings.resIR int32 X||   with value from   ||.caps.config.image.settings.fpgaResolution.resIR int32 X||*

14. save changes as new file

15. use crc01 to calculate checksum of this file

16. open backup\FlashFS\system\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg file again, do the same resolution modification and replace checksum with calculated one

17. save changes as new file that you will upload to camera (in extra step i have changed attributes and date & time of new file to be the same as old one, but this is most likely unnecesary)

18. connect to ftp again, and upload created file overwriting one that sits in \FlashFS\system\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg (or check mike's post just under this one and let us know)

19. unmount & disconnect camera, use reset button in battery compartment to reboot it

it worked for me, i don't take any responsibility for anything but merely sharing what i did described as good as i could, do it at your own risk


*

Code: [Select]

* Z-cam has a detector with 80x80, 120x120 or 144x144 pixels.

[Taucher]

If somebody wants tech-specs for the factory lens... seems as they were nicely documented inside the cam

Code: [Select]

.calib.lens.leExFOL7: (23)
C1                       0.00982
C2                        0.0424
clearanceDistance           0.04
descr                     "FOL7"
fNumber                      1.5
focLen                      6.57
isMeasured                 false
refTTransmission            0.94
theta                 0.33983691
... fixFusionDistance              3 (m)

[Taucher]

Query MSX distance from console:
rls .image.fusion.userDistance

>Set MSX distance from console
(0.1 to 3 are sensible values, the algorithm even supports floating point values, Distance seems to be in meters)

rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.1
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.15
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.16
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.17
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.15
...
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.190
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 0.191
...
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 3
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 4
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 5
...
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 10
...
rset .image.fusion.userDistance 100

EDIT - Adjusting MSX once somebody played too much with the camera:
fist backup all old values
-> rls .image.fusion
-> write them down, pipe them to file, back them up etc...!
then measure the distance between your camera and some testpattern in cm - set that as MSX distance value
check congruency for the image center AND check if the corners align as well, if not
then adjust xpanVal until the error (if any) is symmetric (keep distance fixed)

zoomFactor and ypanVal should only be touched if you realy understand what you're doing and have to touch them
Never touch the Alpha value, you'll need to powercycle the cam to restore MSX as the value will be auto-zeroed if changed.

[G0HZU]

I repeated the initial 60degC tests with the hotplate this morning but I used thin masking tape this time and I left the plate for an hour to stabilise at 60degC. This gave better uniformity in the reading.

The results were very good indeed. At 10cm focus the Digitron + thermocouple and the E4 were within a fraction of a degree of each other at about 60degC. It's hard to believe (i.e. unlikely) the instrument is this accurate but I'll try a higher temperature later. I'm bound to burn myself at some point through careless enthusiasm...

[G0HZU]

Initial tests at 100degC are very encouraging...

The only downside is the meter loses its decimal point at 100degC. The Digitron shows to 0.1degC but the E4 only resolves 1degC above 100degC. But they are within about 1 degree of each other, certainly less than 2 degree error (at 10cm)

I can also see the regulation window of the hotplate. What would be ideal here would be a tripod mount on the E4 (gotta do the tripod mod really SOON) and also some way of datalogging the camera via USB.

I've been too lazy to look up if this is already possible but what I really want to do now is datalog both the Digitron and the E4 with my trusty little notebook PC that lives on my bench. I can do this easily with the Digitron but not the E4. Any ideas? I think both would show the hotplate regulation window quite well but it's a shame the E4 can't hold onto that decimal place a bit longer...

I'll also try 150degC and 200degC and 250degC assuming the masking tape doesn't emit a nasty smell at some point...

Just tried going to 150degC and waiting a few minutes for the plate to properly settle... One thing I can see is that the E4 tends to drift high by maybe 3 or 4 degrees (at 150degC) but then is flashes up 'calibrating' and it then gets much closer to the Digitron. At 150degC it's difficult to get repeatable readings within 2degC and I think I need the tripod to improve consistency.

But this camera is exceeding my expectations. It is much better than the old Irisys 4010 we have at work in so many ways.

[amyk]

If someone figures out a 30hz mod this would be perfect.

Actually that one would be a real nasty problem as it would turn the camera to a "dual use" item that can be treated just like "arms/weapons" - so it would fall under trade restrictions and mean that any applicable government would have to take special care about the camera... guess how good that would be... 

Matter of fact: If you buy one of the higher spec'ed 30/60Hz cameras, then you'll be politely asked to explain(fill out a form) the security measurements against theft etc. - thus preventing some foreign intelligence person from easily stealing the camera, shipping/smuggling it to some "axis of evil" and turning the sensor into a missile guidence system, unwanted airborne defense or hell knows what else (yeah, what horrible threat such a thermal camera must be  ).
Well, this of cause assumes that a whole "enemy" country (usually that's one that didn't attack somebody else yet) will stay offline, dumb and will fail to produce any high-tech on it's own... but I guess the intention is to make it for them as difficult as possible (for a while)...

If I remember correctly a few (or many) pages back in this thread it was determined that those restrictions apply to sensors over a certain number of pixels and framerate. Wise to check this again.

[G0HZU]

One bit of information to add to the world of science is that masking tape turns brown somewhere between 150degC and 200degC.

I'm getting a bit bored with this now because the results are potentially so good but my test setup (lack of tripod and datalogging) is making me want to stop and try this again when both these issues are resolved.

But at 200degC both the Digitron and E4 were within two or three degrees of each other if I try my best to hold the camera at the same point just above the tape above the tiny thermocouple head. For best accuracy you do have to wait for the moment where it finishes its internal calibration.

[PA0PBZ]

For best accuracy you do have to wait for the moment where it finishes its internal calibration.

I found that you can initiate the calibration by pressing the play button for 5 seconds.

[G0HZU]

Yes, the results were very encouraging

I'd like to see if I can improve the test setup but I also need to produce some form of idiotproof safety cage for the hotplate. A small upturned shopping basket would make a crude cage but I want something with larger gaps in the metal. I suppose I could cut bigger gaps in a shopping basket though.

The hotplate can get as hot as a soldering iron bit so I'm quite scared of its ability to cause serious injury...

I found that you can initiate the calibration by pressing the play button for 5 seconds

.

Thanks! That's useful info

[mikeselectricstuff]

If someone figures out a 30hz mod this would be perfect.

Actually that one would be a real nasty problem as it would turn the camera to a "dual use" item that can be treated just like "arms/weapons" - so it would fall under trade restrictions and mean that any applicable government would have to take special care about the camera... guess how good that would be... 

Matter of fact: If you buy one of the higher spec'ed 30/60Hz cameras, then you'll be politely asked to explain(fill out a form) the security measurements against theft etc. - thus preventing some foreign intelligence person from easily stealing the camera, shipping/smuggling it to some "axis of evil" and turning the sensor into a missile guidence system, unwanted airborne defense or hell knows what else (yeah, what horrible threat such a thermal camera must be  ).
Well, this of cause assumes that a whole "enemy" country (usually that's one that didn't attack somebody else yet) will stay offline, dumb and will fail to produce any high-tech on it's own... but I guess the intention is to make it for them as difficult as possible (for a while)...

If I remember correctly a few (or many) pages back in this thread it was determined that those restrictions apply to sensors over a certain number of pixels and framerate. Wise to check this again.

I don't think this is the case - ISTR that the lower resolution for >9fps is something silly like 32 pixels. There was a recent (2009) change to regs for cams with <111,000 pixels but I didn't read far enough to figure out exactly what changed - I don't recall seeing any framerate references. There is a link to some relevant docs either somewhere in this thread or the "buying E4 in Australia" thread

[mrflibble]

I think the map compensates for the lens vignetting, not for the supposed non-uniform black body...

You know, after a good night's sleep I think you are right.

I have used a model of modern military cryo' cooled thermal camera that had a manual dead pixel detection and correction mode. I was surprised when I used that mode as I could see all the dead pixels in the 320x240 detector array. The image looked just like that of the E4.

Good to know that this is typical for a 320x240 sensor. So no particular reason to assume binning there then. Or maybe the E8's have even less dead pixels.

[mikeselectricstuff]

Only path loss changes. No reason for any calibration issues with re-focussing lens

1. Lens is same
2. Detector is same
3. Illumination of detector by lens is same
4. Path loss changes but not mentioned by FLIR as a calibration issue for this camera

Adding an auxiliary lens does introduce more path loss as the ZnSe does not have 100% transmission and over illuminates the primary lens area (not matched to primary lens). Effect is minor in the real world and easily measured for compensation factor table.

Doesn't angle of view come into it somehow?

[olsenn]

Since heat radiates, what would be the approximate theoretical max resolution before any further increase in resolution is meaningless? I doubt it would make much sense for a 32 megapixel 35mm sensor at this FOV.

[olsenn]

Out of curiosity, is the minimum selectable temperature span of the hacked E4 (I believe someone mentioned that it was 4 degrees Celsius) lower than with the original (non-hacked) E4? This might explain the temperature sensitivity differences in the spec sheet.

[Pinkus]

The non hacked E4 did not offer a manual span mode. The auto mode did have a span of approx. 8°C as minimum.

[olsenn]

The non hacked E4 did not offer a manual span mode. The auto mode did have a span of approx. 8°C as minimum.

That's the answer then! 8°C vs 4°C as a minimum temperature span equates to doubled the temperature difference required on the display to discern the difference... that means hacking the E4 allows a thermal sensitivity of 1/2 the original E4.

[okent]

If someone figures out a 30hz mod this would be perfect.

Actually that one would be a real nasty problem as it would turn the camera to a "dual use" item that can be treated just like "arms/weapons" - so it would fall under trade restrictions and mean that any applicable government would have to take special care about the camera... guess how good that would be... 

Matter of fact: If you buy one of the higher spec'ed 30/60Hz cameras, then you'll be politely asked to explain(fill out a form) the security measurements against theft etc. - thus preventing some foreign intelligence person from easily stealing the camera, shipping/smuggling it to some "axis of evil" and turning the sensor into a missile guidence system, unwanted airborne defense or hell knows what else (yeah, what horrible threat such a thermal camera must be  ).
Well, this of cause assumes that a whole "enemy" country (usually that's one that didn't attack somebody else yet) will stay offline, dumb and will fail to produce any high-tech on it's own... but I guess the intention is to make it for them as difficult as possible (for a while)...

If I remember correctly a few (or many) pages back in this thread it was determined that those restrictions apply to sensors over a certain number of pixels and framerate. Wise to check this again.

I don't think this is the case - ISTR that the lower resolution for >9fps is something silly like 32 pixels. There was a recent (2009) change to regs for cams with <111,000 pixels but I didn't read far enough to figure out exactly what changed - I don't recall seeing any framerate references. There is a link to some relevant docs either somewhere in this thread or the "buying E4 in Australia" thread

Being in the USA there is no restriction on owning 30/60fps or 640X480 units here, just can't be shipped without the associated issues described.
I can order the high fps/res units and have them shipped directly to me without any hoops to jump through, they are just ridiculously expensive.
This hack to get 320X240 at such a low cost is phenomenal!  I have used 30 and 60fps systems and they add that extra level of utility.  Would be awesome to have that capability with this same low cost unit. 
Don't hate me for wanting it!  Now if I can just find a low cost short/medium wave IR system hack for a some other inexpensive tool.

[tecman]

I bought a refurbished E30 from flir about a year ago. My decision was based on the ability to focus the lens which was not available on the lower priced units.

Anybody looking into an E30 upgrade ?  I am sure that the higher end models, like the E60 are just firmware settings as well.

Anybody looking ??

Paul

[Taucher]

I bought a refurbished E30 from flir about a year ago. My decision was based on the ability to focus the lens which was not available on the lower priced units.
Anybody looking into an E30 upgrade ?  I am sure that the higher end models, like the E60 are just firmware settings as well.
Anybody looking ??
Paul

Well - it should be pretty much the same method as with the Ex series cameras:
- put cam into RNDIS mode (use 10 second right key inside camera information page to enter USB menu)
- install drivers
- connect to camera over telnet and ftp
- back up anything readable
...

[Taucher]

The non hacked E4 did not offer a manual span mode. The auto mode did have a span of approx. 8°C as minimum.

That's the answer then! 8°C vs 4°C as a minimum temperature span equates to doubled the temperature difference required on the display to discern the difference... that means hacking the E4 allows a thermal sensitivity of 1/2 the original E4.

.image.contadj.autoAdj.TSpanMin 4
.image.contadj.autoAdj.TSpanMinAuto 8

seems to match - and one can be set to 1 as minimum (accepts even 0, but keeps 1,5°-2°C span) - the 4°C manual span seems to apply even when set to something different.

[mikeselectricstuff]

2 Degrees span is very useful. If it can be enabled then I recommend it.

You can get sub-1 deg span using the level/span console commands, but things do start getting quite noisy and drifty below 2 deg- you probably need to let it warm up and stabilise before it's useable.

[mikeselectricstuff]

Just noticed in the standard e8 hack .cfg file

.caps.config.image.contadj.minSpanFactor.factorAuto double 2.0
.caps.config.image.contadj.minSpanFactor.factorManual double 2.0

Yet it's limiting to 4 Maybe it's +/-2?

[olsenn]

Just noticed in the standard e8 hack .cfg file
Quote

    .caps.config.image.contadj.minSpanFactor.factorAuto double 2.0
    .caps.config.image.contadj.minSpanFactor.factorManual double 2.0

Yet it's limiting to 4 Maybe it's +/-2?

Do you select the center temperature somewhere, or does it auto-determine this?

[ixfd64]

The General Tools GTi10 has a 160 x 120 IR resolution and 30 Hz refresh rate, and doesn't cost too much. I wonder if it's possible to hack it into the high-end GTi50 with 320 x 240 IR resolution?

[ovnr]

Well, to be honest I stopped keeping up around page 60. On the other hand, I'm now a convert from the "This is neat, I'm hoping for a closed-box hack, at which point I'll consider it" to the "Yay, I'm going to order it tomorrow" camp.

Thanks, guys. My wallet really needed this.