FLIR E4 Wifi Resolution and Menu Hack Thread

[Tolek]

There is a problem. The equipment is FLIR E4 2.0L 3.16. The three points for temperature measurement after HACK are SP1、SP2、SP3 instead of Hot、 Cold ， What is the problem?

Resolution and palette HACK are completed normally

I have the same issue... Do you have solution?

Just replace the 3 point preset with the original one from your backup. ( You backed up your camera before the change, didn't you?)

Off course I did
original.jpg (just 4 presets E4 with WiFi)
then basic hack:
after basic.jpg
and then Advanced ...

only basic and advanced have got 3 point preset

so should I back to basic one ? and check?

but ... all 3 have got the same CRC32 ...

[Bud]

I do not understand then which original 3 points preset you were referring to, if there was no any 3 points presets in a stock camera.

[facesnorth]

Hi guys, I successfully followed these instructions back in 2015 to upgrade both my resolution and menu on my E4 1.2L with 2.3.0 software.  I rarely ever pull this camera out - it mostly sits in my closet.  I pulled it out today to check the performance of my new vinyl windows, and the camera is working great - but I cannot transfer the photos to my PC.

Using the original micro USB cable that came with it, I've tried on both a Windows 11 laptop and also a Windows 10 desktop PC.  I've also tried using another cable.

I've followed the steps here: https://www.flir.com/support-center/Instruments/my-flir-e4-e5-e6-or-e8-cannot-connect-to-my-pc.-how-do-i-solve-this/

but it does not show up in my Device Manager at all, anywhere.  I hear the beep-beep when I connect the USB, and it charges, but there is no storage folder to access from File Explorer.  And there is nothing to click on in device manager to update the driver to the signed driver they provided in that link.  I did try just force installing the device driver but it didn't do anything.

I tried all these steps except for factory resetting the E4 - https://www.flir.com/support-center/Instruments/flir-tools-will-not-detect-my-camera-i-cannot-transfer-images/

I also tried https://flir.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/903 and disabled USB selective suspension.

I also tried installing these device drivers https://flir.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/47/

I've tried contacting Flir support but they have been fairly useless.

I wasn't sure if factory resetting risked messing something up with the upgrade process I performed 8 years ago on it.  I'm very fuzzy on the details of how I went about doing that, so I don't want to risk breaking it now.

I don't have access to a Windows 7 PC or I would have tried that as well.  Windows 10 came out in 2015, a full 5 months before I even purchased this camera, surely they provided a way to transfer files over the USB on a Windows 10 machine?

I figured you guys probably know as much as anyone at Flir about this and are probably familiar with what I might need to do.  So I appreciate any suggestions helping me get my files onto my PC.

[Bud]

Same advice as a few posts back - Get a WinXP machine (a Virtual Machine should work as well), install Flir Tools and Flir Drivers. This will be the starting point to see if you have problems or not.

[marcheloka]

Big thanks to everyone involved in this. 
Especially BUD! 
I just did the basic resolution hack on my recently bought FLIR E4 noWIFI 2.0L software 3.16.0

I used Sebastian82's method explained before but the alternative way that he mentions in the a), b), c) part. The normal way did not seem to work in my case, the same as the Bud's way explained in 3.12.0 readme. They all gave me grayed out menu buttons as well as no center point for measurement and resolution not improved. On the way i also messed uploading the wrong dll file - 3.12 did not work properly and i had to upload 3.16 to get it working. but finally my resolution is upgraded and noise cancelled so it looks like its fine. Maybe some other time i will try to make other features of basic hack or even advanced or christmas hack, have not decided yet.

Oh i used my normal laptop with recent windows, i think its win10 64 bit. And also i skipped the telnet part because this is not in the Sebastian instructions. And even though it worked. Also had some weird problems with FTP because using password 3vlig did not work, filezilla said it was the wrong password. And using this anonymous login credentials resulted in not seeing some files, including \FlashIFS\FLIRVers.rsc. Somehow it just clicked after few trys but i do not know what i did differently.

Link to Sebastian82's tutorial i used (second way a, b, c...): https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-e4-wifi-resolution-and-menu-hack-thread/msg4044625/#msg4044625

[Bud]

.
 Also had some weird problems with FTP because using password 3vlig did not work, filezilla said it was the wrong password.

I am pretty sure I mentioned couple times that you just need to repeat login a second time. The firsf time there seem to be an extra character in the ftp program buffer that causes the camera to fail the login. Second time it works.
Or simply press ENTER the first time to flash the buffer, then log in.

[serochance]

Does anyone have the FLIR Device Drivers (version: 1.9.1.0) files?

The links to the FLIR site for the driver downloads are now broken. FLIR Tools was also discontinued. This makes following most of the liberation guides impossible.

Thanks to everyone for all the hard work.

[tcq1000]

    Please help me.
    My FLIR E4 can't connect to the computer through USB, nor can it be charged. After disassembly, it was found that the USN socket was connected to a QFN16 chip. After looking for a friend's E4, it was found that the chip code was different, and the model of the chip could not be found by using two codes. Please help me to see what the complete model is, or the replacement model.
   The identification of two FLIR E4 chips are: 0908 8GGA and 0952 456G

[exe]

Please help me to see what the complete model is, or the replacement model.
   The identification of two FLIR E4 chips are: 0908 8GGA and 0952 456G

I know it's long shot but.... Can it be by any chance a ESD protection? I'd expect USB to be handled by another IC. May be it's sort of, uhm, usb driver IC? Flir E4 is quite an old device, so may be its MCU cannot interface usb directly. It's also, imo, unlikely to be, say, just usb-to-serial controller.

I can't recognise the logo of manufacturer, that would help a lot.

[bdeianov]

Does anyone have the FLIR Device Drivers (version: 1.9.1.0) files?

The links to the FLIR site for the driver downloads are now broken. FLIR Tools was also discontinued. This makes following most of the liberation guides impossible.

Thanks to everyone for all the hard work.

The versions I used with a WinXP VM still appear to be available.

FLIR Tools 4.1
FLIR Device Drivers x86 (1.15.5.0) (32-Bit)

For the drivers, create an account, then navigate to Utilities and Tools / FLIR Device Drivers / Flip Device Drivers x86.

[defplayr]

>tcq1000

What look like 'same series' salvaged chips available in Russia. Any good?

https://spb.partsdirect.ru/goods/906209

Google Translate: https://spb-partsdirect-ru.translate.goog/goods/906209?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp

[darix362]

Hi,

i noticed a strange behaviour on my Flir E5 Ext Wifi, v.3.16, which is running the christmas pack for about 1.5 years without problems.

If i take a thermal picture and copy it to my computer, there is no flir logo in the lower left corner. But after opening it in the original flir tools software, version 5.13.18031.2002, an doing some modifications to the thermal picture and saving it, the flir logo appears and a second "°C" appears in the upper middle.

Does someone noticed the same behaviour or happen to know what caused this?
Maybe could it be caused in using the two custom made user presets? Because in this measurement options the "°C" is separated from the temperature field and not included.

Best regards.

Edit:
Today i checked my old Photos with the 100% Stock firmware with resolution 160x120 and noticed, that this bug is there too. So it have to be an issue with the flir-tools v5.13 i am using. Sorry for confusing.

[tcq1000]

There was a problem upgrading my FLIR E5 system. Which directory is the calibration file located in?
      After using the Tools update prompt to unplug the USB and start the update, I unplugged the USB but the device did not update. I forcefully shut down and then turned it on again, but found that it could not be turned on and remained stuck in the FLIR logo. Fortunately, I found a motherboard from the second-hand market, and after replacing the motherboard, it can boot up and display images, but there are many drawbacks. Before the update, I backed up the system. Do you know where the device's calibration files are stored? I want to try replacing the calibration file to solve the problem of bad points.
     Attempted to replace these 3 files without xi

[Odd]

Is it possible to change the EXIF Camera model data from FLIR F4 WiFi to ... FLIR F8 WiFi ?

[tcq1000]

There was a problem upgrading my FLIR E5 system. Which directory is the calibration file located in?
      After using the Tools update prompt to unplug the USB and start the update, I unplugged the USB but the device did not update. I forcefully shut down and then turned it on again, but found that it could not be turned on and remained stuck in the FLIR logo. Fortunately, I found a motherboard from the second-hand market, and after replacing the motherboard, it can boot up and display images, but there are many drawbacks. Before the update, I backed up the system. Do you know where the device's calibration files are stored? I want to try replacing the calibration file to solve the problem of bad points.
     Attempted to replace these 3 files without xi

Through these days of research, we have successfully solved the problem and restored this brick changing machine to normal.

I managed the process of re brushing the system, calibration, etc., and now the bad points have been removed

[aproape]

Good morning everyone!

Brand new user here and registered specifically to send my thanks and notes for this hack.

First of all, thanks to Bud in particular for making this possible (and all others who have contributed a few bits and pieces) and.. it's fantastic that this is still going on after.. 10+ years, eh? (-:

I've purchased a SH E5-XT (no Wifi) which arrived with 2.0L and 3.12 firmware.

I've read most of the posts (probably ~40 pages) to figure out what needs to be done.. and the following was applied:

- upgraded to v3.16 (some new menu options were enabled: sport / temperature)
- applied the resolution hack only (4 lines in .cfc and the v3.16 .dll) - all good - new thermal resolution showed up
- applied the Basic pkg
- applied the Advanced pkg

====

The E5 is liberated - it has all the goodies that is supposed to have - cheers!


*Update* - more attachments added to show other modes as well.

FLIR logo also has vanished from the bottom left (not a biggie).

Let me know if there is something that can be done about the limited area measurement.


Cheers,
aproape

P.S. I'll add the xmas pack as well / other changes - just very pleased with the results so far and.. again.. big thanks to Bud/Fraser/all others who made this possible. Camera will be used primarily for electrical work around my cave.

[atlgator]

Hi all,

I bought an E4 Wifi, model E4 2.0L, firmware 3.16.0 and successfully hacked it using the steps Sebastion (and Bud et al) laid out with the files attached to his post. Given it's the wifi model I was able to simplify the process and not use the FLIR Tools or FLIR Drivers. I connected the device to my home wifi network and used WinSCP to connect using FTP. I used a handy free iPhone app called Fing to scan my home network and give me the IP address of the FLIR. Backed up all the files on the device first. As Sebastian mentioned, a number of them wouldn't transfer. Followed Sebastian's steps for decrypting, modifying, and re-encrypting the conf.cfc. Renamed the common DLL on the device so I could copy over the new one. Renamed the old conf.cfc on the device so I could copy over the new one. Restarted the device and good to go. I was able to do it all on my Windows 11 desktop. Just had to download and install Python 2.7 as a prerequisite.

Thanks all!

EDIT: This morning I tried to add the Santa mods and it bricked the device. Had to install the FLIR Tools and Drivers after all to get into recovery. I will say that the FLIRInstallerNet didn't work right out of the gate, but as I was sitting there it asked if I wanted to update my FLIR Tools version from 4.x to 5.x. Went through the update install and it had me reboot my computer. Once I got back in it worked and I was able to run the RNDIS FIF. Back in business after reverting the files.

[Bud]

You should Not leave the old .cfc config file on the device. Make a backup of it and delete it.

[nikitasius]

Hi folks, i promise to read all that thread and not just search'n'google the stuff as i did before.
But the question which is in my head is (one big & multiline question):
• to successfully hack we need to switch flir to rndis mode.
• mk2 versions (solid D-pad) doesn't have service menu.

Could they be hacked?

I wanna buy Exx or ExxBX, there are some good offers for mk2 models.

[Bud]

This thread is for E4. Anything else is one's guess.

[Swappart]

Got my E4 today, Software version 3.16. Works perfectly, including WiFi.
I did this on Windows 11, 64 bit.
FLIR Tools 6.4.18039.1003.
Latest drivers from FLIR. //Couldn't get ThermaCAM Connect 3 to work. Maybe driver issue?

I used ChatGPT to port the cfccfg_v2 from Python 2.7 to Python 3.
I did a binary comparison of the output files from the original cfccfg_v2 with Python 2.7, and my Python 3 version (cfccfg_v3).
Output files are identical, and it's used exactly the same way. It's attached below.

Thanks Bud, Sebastian82, and everyone else who contributed.

[Theremin]

Hi all and thank you for this invaluable resource. Got a new E4 Wifi, did the resolution hack and the camera booted up without problem. Took some test photos and connected it to a computer. While browsing the photos it froze and the drive connection dropped. The camera menu was unresponsive so I had to shut it down.

Now it's completely unresponsive, can't get into recovery mode either. I've tried with different computers but it's not recognized at all in the USB bus. Any ideas? It should be able to start enough to get into recovery, right? So maybe I just had very bad luck and it's a faulty unit that happened to die immediately after. Is there anything else I could try to revive it?

Edit: It's a 2.0L model with 3.16 software.

[Bud]

What do youmean completely unresposive? Does the startup screen shows up when you press the power button and it gets stuck there? Does the camera boot but you cant connect to usb? Or it does not turn on at all?

[Theremin]

What do youmean completely unresposive? Does the startup screen shows up when you press the power button and it gets stuck there? Does the camera boot but you cant connect to usb? Or it does not turn on at all?

It doesn't turn on at all. Stays completely black and nothing is showing under device manager in Windows or system information in macOS. To me it looks like it just died, perhaps completely unrelated to the resolution hack since it was so abrupt after normal bootup. But I thought I'd ask before sending it for repair.

[Bud]

It was a new camera, did you charge the battery before using?
Things you can try:
Unplug the battery for 1 min, plug it again. Connect the wall charger to the camera. Push Left and Right keys together. Do you see the screen showing battery charging? What is charge level? Let the battery charge. If charge level is low, leave the camera charging for a few hours. You can monitor charge level on the screen.