Hti HT-301 384 x 288

[meanie2]

Hi! Is Hti a reliable brand?

[ArsenioDev]

Whoah, thats shockingly decent video if real. Wonder which FPA they're using and approx sale price

[meanie2]

Whoah, thats shockingly decent video if real. Wonder which FPA they're using and approx sale price

$859.00 before 10% off, not sure which currency.

https://hti-instrument. com/products/ht-301-mobile-phone-thermal-imager

[tonykids]

Familiar with these picture?
the same as T3S ! I think HT-301 is just  T3S, with a HTI logo on it
but T3S is only $650

[meanie2]

In that case, hope there is no logo, people were complaining about st***** xinfrared logo.

[Fraser]

The logo is free advertising if the images get shared or published. Most manufacturers of consumer grade cameras incorporate a Logo in the image. Some let you disable the Logo overlay, but most do not.

As a good friend of mine who designs cameras said to me...... “why have junk on the screen, like logo’s when a customer has paid a lot for those pixels !” Every one of those expensive pixels should be made available to the customer, if desired !

Fraser

[Ambassador]

Hti-xintai  HT 301 - full analogue of the device but cheaper -  IRAY Xtherm T3.
Device housing all aluminium.
Lens focal position is 13 mm.
Minimum shooting distance is 19 centimeters.
Viewing angle: 32.8 ° х 24.6 °
Price (12.10.2019) - $773.10

I bought it and I already got it. There were no problems. The store pays for mail.

Manufacturer's website - store:
https://hti-instrument.com/products/ht-301-mobile-phone-thermal-imager

View details and mechanics + lens attachment dimensions:
https://yadi.sk/d/cKbfsocK7y2jZg

[Fraser]

@Ambassador

Interesting internal pictures. Thanks 

[Vipitis]

most noteable it offers 25hz. in the QVGA dongle space you can only get a modified ThermApp to do that. If HTI and IRAY are just rebrands of one another, it gets interesting in terms of competition. The sensor they built looks very capable and form the teardown, the lens looks like a good piece of germanium.

[NBtron]

View details and mechanics + lens attachment dimensions:
https://yadi.sk/d/cKbfsocK7y2jZg

Can you make foto of PCB with all chips?

[Bill W]

'Interesting'  comparison with a Boson 640.

Shows what a bit of unsharp mask can do to a 384 image while a bit of blur on the Boson 640. 

Ambassador, what do the images from your actual camera look like ?

Bill

[Ambassador]

Found images on this forum! I do not remember the address

Remembered:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/comparison-flir-boson-640-vs-ulis-pico384-(thermapp)-vs-iray-xtherm-t3s/

[Ambassador]

View details and mechanics + lens attachment dimensions:
https://yadi.sk/d/cKbfsocK7y2jZg

Can you make foto of PCB with all chips?

Currently this is not possible.

[NBtron]

Currently this is not possible.

Later?

[Ambassador]

Then. The device is new. Climb into it, for no reason really do not want + Manufacturer sanctions.

[NBtron]

Then. The device is new. Climb into it, for no reason really do not want + Manufacturer sanctions.

You must not deep climb into. You can open case and disconnect shutter. So i can see shutter is connected with normal 2pin connector (data connector must not be disconnected). That's all. Then you can make a couple fotos. There is only one single PCB. But if you don't want, I can understand you. 

[NBtron]

Is it same shutter?

[Ambassador]

Yes. The calibration flag.

[NinetySix]

Hi guys. Long time lurker, first time poster 

I just received my HT-301, and coming from a lepton 3.5 ("DIY-Thermocam") I am frankly gobsmacked at how much better the HT-301 is! US$770 isn't exactly chump change, especially with an exchange rate that sure ain't what it was about 5 years ago... So it was a bit of a gamble in a way, but one that appears to have paid off.

My first suspicions were that the sample photos on HTI's website were a little too good to be true, but I can safely say they have not been doctored. They are, however, probably good examples of excessive noise correction that seems to be applied by default with the HTI app. There is every possiblity that I don't know what I'm talking about yet.

Leads me to my next point, the HTI app is at best functional... But in my case, far from it. I use a Google pixel 3a XL which runs Android 10, and to be fair "Mr Lin" (the chap who answers HTI's email enquiries, and I think runs the YouTube channel) did say to me that it won't support my phone, but that it will support the Mrs' Huawei mate 20 Pro running a bastardised version of Android 9. Mr Lin was very quick with email replies, tho many of them featured only one word

So the app works on the Huawei, not much to write home about and a lovely watermark for my trouble, covering probably 50 US dollars worth of pixels

FFC clicks the shutter away and seems to change the image for the better, but the image does have noticeably uneven "illumination" with a brighter ring around the periphery (like vignetting, but the opposite) along with a funny looking defect in the centre of the frame, kind of reminds me of spherical aberration. I have since noticed a very similar "feature" in photos taken with other 384x288 17μm modules that appear to be the same thing with different branding.

Which leads to the next point...  The ht-301 works like a charm with ThermViewer, even on Android 10 and without going into it too much, it's a heck of an improvement over the HTI app, even when on a phone it works with lens cap on and hold down the eraser (nuc?) looking button and... bam! The defects in the previous paragraph are gone.

And the final point I'll make, the lens sure is a loose fit in it's focusing threads! I suspect that may be intentional, to protect the sales of thermal rifle sights that need to hold a zero, not that HTI appear to sell one However it doesn't appear that it will fall out, with (not very) hard stops slightly past Infinity and at around 120mm from the lens, definitely less than the 190mm on the spec sheet.




Attached is a photo that is definitely something a lepton could not resolve, it would appear to be the brightly illuminated blood vessels on the back of the Mrs hand. Focus isn't nailed, and it's tricky to get stills to come out as good as they appear live... Tricky to hit the shutter button without shaking the camera I suspect.


Cheers

[bap2703]

Thanks for the review.

The illumination ring is due to the shutter being between the lens and the sensor.
Doing a nuc with the shutter corrects the sensor non uniformity but leaves that of the lens untouched.

That's why a nuc done in front of the lens is better: you take into account everything.

[Vipitis]

how is the framerate?

[NinetySix]

Very good, haven't seen a frame counter to verify but I would say easily 25hz? There's a video I shot on my Google photos, see following link:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Wmtw5DKgNysY8vz7

Edit: a couple of very short videos and some stills

[NBtron]

Can you make some video and foto?

[NinetySix]

Open the Google photos link in my previous post I'll add more progressively, and I just added a few now. Check again if you've already looked

[NBtron]

Can you make macrofoto of PCB with smd?

[Nicky]

It's 25 HZ .

[Nicky]

This model  hti-301 are selling on UK or USA amazon ,the link is    https://amzn.to/2Jcoqns and  https://amzn.to/31Dzyjs,  you may PM to ask discount !

[Nicky]

how is the framerate?

   It's 25 HZ .

[bap2703]

This model  hti-301 are selling on UK or USA amazon ,the link is    https://amzn.to/2Jcoqns and  https://amzn.to/31Dzyjs,  you may PM to ask discount !

Is it the wisest choice to sell it in UK for EU customers since brexit is coming?

[Nicky]

This model  hti-301 are selling on UK or USA amazon ,the link is    https://amzn.to/2Jcoqns and  https://amzn.to/31Dzyjs,  you may PM to ask discount !

Is it the wisest choice to sell it in UK for EU customers since brexit is coming?

Yes . we ships  from our factory . aslo we will creat listing in  DE ,FR amazon marke soon !

[Bill W]

The following spam was received as a personal message from 'Nicky', ironic as my only 'interest' was a post exposing their 
Bill




Glad to know you are interested in  our thermal camera ht-301 , we have created a listing on Uk amazon ,pls check the link  : https://amzn.to/2Jcoqns , we may offer 20% off discount for promotion ,any idea pls feel free to contact wth us ! our email : hti201801@hotmail.com.

Best regards
Nicky
XT Instrument customer servcie team .

[victorhooi]

Does anybody know if the HTI-301 can be used with a computer (Mac ideally, or Windows PC if needed) to stream images and thermal data to?

[BUMERANG]

Подкажите плз. нахожусь в раздумьях насчет покупки тепловизора, в данный момент рассматриваю следующие:

- Seek Compact pro-type C
- Hti HT-301
- KCH-T3S

Почитав за каждый тепловизор, понял, что у двух последних есть фирменный логотип на картинке, связавшись с Support каждого понял, что они убирать не собираются лого , но по спец.заказу  Hti согласились это сделать но за "дорого".
Собственно у меня цели применения тепловизора самые обширные, вплоть до проверки теплоутечек в домах. Понимаю, что ни один из данных тепловизоров не проходил РСТ и тем самым будет проблематично его "поверка".
Склоняюсь к модельке от Seek т.к. там нет на экране лого да и бренд американский хороший, но понима, что с размерами матрицы проигрываю (((
KCH-T3PRO не рассматриваю в связи с его дороговизной и по сути функционал как KCH-T3S

[NinetySix]

Hi, I used Google to translate but sounds like you like the HTI 301 but don't want the watermark that the HTI app forces upon you.

The fix for that is easy, use "ThermViewer" instead of the HTI app. It's better in every way, much clearer images, "super res", and lens cap correction (NUC right?) really clears up the "aberrations" you see in the HTI app. But best of all, there is no annoying watermark wasting your precious pixels

Downside is that it cost 35 US dollars, but hey your wallet is gonna take a hit buying the camera, so you may as well enjoy it.

[BUMERANG]

«ThermViewer» это что такое и где взять ?
Поясните пошагово пожалуйста

p.s: вот это APP-приложение только нашел

оно точно подойдет для HTI HT-301 ?

[NinetySix]

Yes, that's the one that I use.

Although it does not say anything about HTI 301 compatibility, it worked straight away for me. Because I have a pixel phone running Android 10, the HTI app does not work so this was my only option, but also the best option

I spoke to the developer, Jinhua, by email (nice guy!) and he suggested that the HTI is most likely made by the same OEM as the Xtherm. The app identifies the camera as a T3 when plugged into the phone.


Cheers

Edit: free to download, and you get 3 day trial period, after that it is limited to 5 minutes before the app closes (open it again and your get another 5 minutes). The licence is associated with the cameras serial number, so you can install it on multiple phones no problem.

[rpg22]

Hello, I am thinking of buying HT-301, but still wondering what other lenses could be fitted? My intention is to use it for hog hunting, so more range is desirable.
Thanks

[tonykids]

It's $600 now at chinese TaoBao
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.6.23d774c9Y9CaVV&id=603860688066

[NBtron]

I see 690  dollars. Were did you find 600?
       

[schalli]

Hello everybody
I would like to buy the Hti HT-301 for only 580$ on Alibaba.
Now my Question, it is possible to get any Thermal Infos from the Picture... or it is possible to analys in the past (same with the Flir Tools?)
Or any Software to do this?!
Greetings
Daniel

[tonykids]

I see 690  dollars. Were did you find 600?
     

Lower left of the pic
you get ￥50 off every ￥400,so  4842-(50*12)=￥4242=$605
if you have Taobao account you can easily get this.

[NBtron]

If you buy from taobao, you need a taobao agent. Agents usually take 5% of price and don't forget shipping cost (and may be custom fee).
On aliexpress it costs 670$ with free shipping (but may be you need pay later custom fee):
aliexpress.com/item/4000238138019

[Nik]

I hope someone make a video video seek compact pro vs ht-301

[All Seeing Eye]

I have bought this camera, the clarity is good, the fuselage is aluminum alloy, the picture looks like plastic.

[All Seeing Eye]

T2S

[All Seeing Eye]

My dog

[All Seeing Eye]

HT-301

[All Seeing Eye]

My dog for HT-301.

[All Seeing Eye]

My dog for Flir one 2.

[All Seeing Eye]

My dog for TESTO 875.

[Fraser]

The HT-301 image detail of your dogs coat looks excellent 

Fraser

[All Seeing Eye]

You can really see hair.

[rpg22]

Hi all,
I also received my camera HT-301. Pretty piece of equipment, just the software is a little basic.
What other software can run this camera for Android? Also I want to run it on my laptop(win 10). Do you think it is possible?

The last question is about the lenses. Now it is 13mm. I think that with 35mm lens it will be easy to see animals on several hundred meters. Someone did this kind of project?

[BUMERANG]

Стою перед выбором покупки тепловизора, сейчас рассматриваю следующие модели (матрица 384*288):

- Thermal Expert Q1 Plus -  (9Гц , материал линзы- Германий)
- iRay XTherm T3 Pro - (25Гц , материал линзы- ? )
- HT-301 - (25Гц , материал линзы- ? )

Цена практически одинаковая у них.
Совместимо ли программное обеспечение от HT-301 с программным обеспечением от Thermal Expert Q1 Plus   ?

Понравился софт у Thermal Expert Q1 Plus - http://www.i3-thermalexpert.com/support/android-app-ios-app/?ckattempt=1
И вообще в целом софт у тепловизоров iRay и HT будет совместим между собой ?

Вот инструкция на русском Thermal Expert Q1 Plus - https://yadi.sk/d/ru-DYHhB3agXH2 (меня пугает частота кадров низкая). Описание Thermal Expert Q1 Plus - http://www.i3-thermalexpert.com/products/t-e-narrow/
Подскажите советом пожалуйста.

p.s: и наверно уже покупать из-за границы станет накладно т.к. в РФ вступаю скоро (с 01.01.2020) новые таможенные правила по уплате гос.пошлины с товаров на сумму свыше 250$, сейчас до 500$

[therwp]

A few collections of photos captured on my HT-301, mostly featuring two mice.

[therwp]

Some more. All captured using ThermViewer with superresolution enabled, on a Galaxy S9+.

Edit: No processing beyond that.

[MIT_TIM]

Someone mentioned T3S. It is very similar with Hti. What is the relation between the two brand?

[rpg22]

Someone mentioned T3S. It is very similar with Hti. What is the relation between the two brand?

I tried to investigate, wrote to  X-infrared(The T3S producer) but the only thing they replied was that they look quite similar, nothing more.

[bap2703]

Xinfrared = Iray = manufacturer of IR sensor
HTI = Dongguan Xintai Instrument = manufacturer of various instruments

A partnership would be a win-win for them.

It's maybe time to create a patreon to make Dave do IR specific teardowns

[RBsonic]

I bought HT-301 on amazon.uk https://amzn.to/2Jcoqns a month ago and use it couple weeks.











I have not any thermal camera before, but I saw many reviews and tests of seek thermal and others thermal cameras.
I think, that hardware of ht-301 is good enough. Photos and video are  detailed and not noisy.
And 13mm lens plays here the most important role.
There are many other thermal cameras with QVGA resolution and small lens, but quality of their images are worse.
HT-301 video is smooth with 25Hz. But sometimes it is only 23-24Hz, may be it depends on phone. Video is only without sound.

23Hz
https://youtu.be/MKHlP86JSk8

24Hz
https://youtu.be/dOjAVNVGGC4

24Hz
https://youtu.be/gUCKiVa3baM

25Hz with all types of pallets
https://youtu.be/F9461Vfi_hA

Unfortunately you can not make long video with android App "Hti image". Video will be splitted into 3 minutes parts (each part 200 megabyte).
And there is a small problem with shutter. It makes automatically recalibration  every 2-3 minutes and sometimes this causes 1 second freeze moments in video.
But if you make manual recalibration before you start video, you can get 1-2 minutes without freeze moments.
I hope it will be fixed with software update.

Freeze moment
https://youtu.be/r1U0-8-PtOY

Resolution of photos and video is 1420x1080. There is no possibility  to get RAW Image (384x288). There is only 1420x1080 increased resolution with "Hti Xintai" logo. Logo sometimes blinking on video. I think, some options of temperature measurement cause it.
All pictures and video will be storaged in internal phone memory. There is no possibility to storage on SD card.
So, internal memory of your phone must have enough free space. I have now only 2Gb free space and this is a little problem for me.

Car


Building 1


Building 2


Building 3


Building 4 (with phone camera)


The door to the street


Freezer with hot water



Accuracy of temperature measurement is correct, but depends on setting. You need to choose right distance in setting, otherwise accuracy get worse.

Ice water


Boiled water


Camera can measure temperature up to 600-680°C and it depends on distance setting too.
To measure high temperature you need to change the temperature range, but before that you need to choose one of temperature measurement, otherwise software will be crashed.

HT-301 Gas Soldering Iron (over 600°C )



Minimum focus distance is about 15cm. It would be desirable a bit smaller for very small smd or electric parts, but for other things this focus distance is O.K.
I tried to screw out lens to reduce focus distance, but it seems that lens has a locking inside. I plan to buy ZnSe lens, but I don't know which diameter and focus is better.
If somebody has any idea, please write me.

Focus


TP4056


DC-DC XL4016 1.


DC-DC XL4016 2.


Fritzbox 3390



I think that "Hti Image" software needs further development, but hardware is really good.

[Nicky]

Hi RBSonic :

Thanks for your purchase and review from us  . we will give a feedback to our design department to improve it . we aslo sell on US amazon  https://amzn.to/31Dzyjs , anybody ,if interested in this product ,pls contact with me to get discount. 

[MIT_TIM]

The infrared modules of Hti are purchased from IRay Technology. IRay has its own thermal imaging cameras for smartphones -- T2S, T3S.

[RBsonic]

Today was cold cleary weather.

Airplane
https://youtu.be/vIam6aCicm0

Bus and cars. Reflection in the glass
https://youtu.be/BduYaJ16f1M

[bap2703]

The infrared modules of Hti are purchased from IRay Technology. IRay has its own thermal imaging cameras for smartphones -- T2S, T3S.

Maybe that's how you remove the HTi logo 

[RBsonic]

Airplane

[RBsonic]

next building

[Vipitis]

There is a considerable amount of sharpening applied to every single image. You wouldn't be able to compare it side by side with the TS3. 

No Access to raw images and removal of that logo is a strong deal breaker. It looks like they did a good job on the lens, how we vignetting is seen more than once.

[RBsonic]

May be T3S Pro is just unlocked T3S 

[RBsonic]

May be T3S Pro is just unlocked T3S 

And better optics or better binned VOx. Otherwise it couldn't achieve higher accuracy.

You can make accuracy worse with software too.

[Bud]

That would be very sick, and I've never seen any T&M devices do that.

Flir  E-series lower models ? 

[RBsonic]

Isn't that only neutering pixels, not accuracy?

What is accuracy? It's just how exactly you measure and calculate a temperature. Software makes a calculating. But may be you are right and T3S Pro has a better sensor.
Or T3S and T3S Pro have same sensor, but sensor of T3S has manufacture faults, like Flir  E-series.

[Bud]

That would be very sick, and I've never seen any T&M devices do that.

Flir  E-series lower models ? 

Isn't that only neutering pixels, not accuracy?

That in conjunction with added artificial noise, i would argue you can't measure accurately when  strong noise is present.

[RBsonic]

Warm car

[Bud]

That in conjunction with added artificial noise, i would argue you can't measure accurately when  strong noise is present.

Yes, but I've never seen T&M gears artificially adding noise.

That is exactly what Flir does. Everyone back then was puzzled when the E4 hacking thread started why would they do it . As part of the "tune up"  the noise parameter was removed which resulted in better image.

[RBsonic]

Video Mix

https://youtu.be/uAqFPpR9ZAk

[RBsonic]

[xslop]

Anyone have these USB C connector dimensions to share? I need to see if cases like otterbox or spigen can fit the usb C connectors on the HT 301 without removing the case.

[RBsonic]

Anyone have these USB C connector dimensions to share? I need to see if cases like otterbox or spigen can fit the usb C connectors on the HT 301 without removing the case.

[PlainName]

HTI? I have the HT-A1 and the first thing I want to know before buying anything else from them is: can the firmware be updated? Second: will there be updates?

[xslop]

Thanks!!!

Anyone have these USB C connector dimensions to share? I need to see if cases like otterbox or spigen can fit the usb C connectors on the HT 301 without removing the case.

(Attachment Link)

[RBsonic]

HTI? I have the HT-A1 and the first thing I want to know before buying anything else from them is: can the firmware be updated? Second: will there be updates?

I don't know about firmware, but software was already updated.

[BH3XON]

Someone mentioned T3S. It is very similar with Hti. What is the relation between the two brand?

I have T3PRO, HT301 case, app, and packaging are all very similar to T3PRO. I believe they are from the same source and have different logos printed on them.

[zrq]

For people interested in removing the HTI or Xtherm logo and do custom image processing (NUC,denoising...) . I know it's possible to directly acquire frames of raw data from Xtherm T3s through the UVC protocol. This may also work for HTI dongles.
T3s identify themselves as UVC cameras when connected to phones and desktop computers, the frames grabed from them are 292*384*2 bytes (288*384*16bits+some auxiliary data).  Some magic commands may needs to be sent to them to do initialization and shutter calibration.
This is how I get it to work with OpenCV

Code: [Select]

        self.camera.set(cv2.CAP_PROP_CONVERT_RGB, 0)  # CV_CAP_PROP_CONVERT_RGB
        # CV_CAP_PROP_ZOOM use raw mode
        self.camera.set(cv2.CAP_PROP_ZOOM, 0x8004)
        # CV_CAP_PROP_ZOOM calibrate
        self.camera.set(cv2.CAP_PROP_ZOOM, 0x8000)There is a SDK (with poor documentation) for T3s with .dll and .so to translate the grabbed frame to temperature data, you may try to get them from the vendor. If you can't, I may help you when I have the time.

Besides, after around 4 months from purchase, 2 dead pixels appeared in the frames grabbed by my Xtherm T3s. As there is no public solution to cancel them in firmware, I have to return it for service. It's easy as I lived in the same city of the manufactuer, but it may be potentially troublesome for customers not in China. Please be aware before buying them.

[RBsonic]

Can you change "Hti Image" android App to remove "Hti Xintai" logo?

[RBsonic]

Fireworks Mix.  Happy new year 2020!

https://youtu.be/-m7RYPIIRXc

[alex871]

Besides, after around 4 months from purchase, 2 dead pixels appeared in the frames grabbed by my Xtherm T3s. As there is no public solution to cancel them in firmware, I have to return it for service. It's easy as I lived in the same city of the manufactuer, but it may be potentially troublesome for customers not in China. Please be aware before buying them.

Hello,
can you tell me if this defect is widespread among the users of this camera?
Eventually only two pixels burned seriously compromise the image? Is there a risk that others will burn?

Or are these drawbacks in isolated cases?

Regards
Alessio

[RBsonic]

May be, it is not dead pixels. It can be dust on sensor.

[zrq]

Sorry but I didn't do a survey, the only sample is the one in my hand. The deadpixels are annoying with the official app, but it looks like Thermviewer has the ability to mask them and, of course, you can write your code.
I'm pretty sure they are dead pixels since the temperature readout of the two points is precisely 20 degC.

[zrq]

Can you change "Hti Image" android App to remove "Hti Xintai" logo?

Yes, but this requires some reverse engineering. I wouldn't like to spend my time on it without any financial incentive. However, I guess the simplest solution you can try is to replace

Code: [Select]

HT-301_安装前请先卸载旧版本软件.apk\res\mipmap-hdpi-v4\hti_logo.png with a transparent png (with the same size?) and resign the app.

[RBsonic]

May be you need to find calibration data and add dead pixels in calibration file.

[RBsonic]

Code: [Select]

HT-301_安装前请先卸载旧版本软件.apk\res\mipmap-hdpi-v4\hti_logo.png with a transparent png (with the same size?) and resign the app.

Where I find this part of code?

[bitcore]

New user. Hi everyone. Lurker, for a while, Patreon supporter.

Now this is a cool little camera. Can confirm, ThermViewer does work with this device. I am using a OnePlus6 on android 8.1.0 (I know that's a bit old for this device, but I can also confirm it works with xprivacy LUA + xposed + root). Annoyingly, I must turn on OTG storage in advanced android settings first, then the camera works. Therm viewer seems to get the temperatures WAY wrong compared to stock XTI app - it sees my plasma screen as 400F+ but it's really 120f. First time with the app today, and hopefully I'm just missing something (It also does not to auto-cal regularly, compared to stock app, but the calibrate button does appear to work.)

First impressions: I am surprised at how narrow the FOV is - you really need to be "abnormally far" from your subject. I'd love to find a "drop-in" wide angle germanium lens that I can mount, replacing the stock one for casual use.

To counter NinetySix's comment about the loose threads -mine are nice and tight when focus is set for far/infinity. It feels like they placed a nitrile or viton o-ring on it, nice and viscous - but now it's just a bit TOO tight unless you have a phone case also gripping the USB connection to stiffen everything up. I would prefer for the machining to be more precise instead of an o-ring as a cheap fix. Sounds like a couple grains of sand are in the threads. Change your tooling inserts more frequently, they are cheap! Spend just a little bit extra time CLEANING up the threads and you don't need a o-ring. I wonder if the grit in the threads is what possibly caused dead pixels from another user in the thread. Apologies, that's for a Xtherm T3s

RBSonic's photos and videos really show off the best bits of this device. I'm still learning it. You need to get the focus correct - you forget how nice autofocus is. That being said - the lens on this is awesome. I'll borrow a quote from motor sport: "There's no replacement for displacement", and the lens diameter for this device has got to be at least twice the diameter of a comparable Flir or Seek.

The best aspect of this device, for me, is the frame rate:


Throw your FLIR and Seek in the garbage.

(ok, don't actually do that, donate it, but I'm rather amazed by this device and it was amusing to make that statement)

[bitcore]

Who likes servers and High Performance Computing Clusters?

[PlainName]

Pretty, but without knowing even relative temperatures it's fairly meaningless. For all we know those servers could be running at below freezing. Or about to melt.

Edit: On reflection, it's possible that this post might look like an attack of sour grapes or something, but I assure you it wasn't meant to be. The video shows the excellent frame rate but also the main issues with this camera (not being able to fix the range, etc).

[zrq]

Code: [Select]

HT-301_安装前请先卸载旧版本软件.apk\res\mipmap-hdpi-v4\hti_logo.png with a transparent png (with the same size?) and resign the app.

Where I find this part of code?

After unpacking the apk with apktool or any zip utility (like 7zip).
To repack and resign the apk, you will need JDK and see https://gressie.wordpress.com/2012/06/14/how-to-properly-re-assign-a-signature-to-an-android-apk-file/ . (generate key using keytool first, like

Code: [Select]

keytool -genkey -alias nt.android -keyalg RSA -validity 20000 -keystorent.keystore)

[bitcore]

Pretty, but without knowing even relative temperatures it's fairly meaningless. For all we know those servers could be running at below freezing. Or about to melt.

Edit: On reflection, it's possible that this post might look like an attack of sour grapes or something, but I assure you it wasn't meant to be. The video shows the excellent frame rate but also the main issues with this camera (not being able to fix the range, etc).

Hi Dunkemhigh,
I recorded this with a trial version of ThermViewer. I wasn't meaning to show off temperatures with this video - I was just tooling around looking at some interesting items. But yes, I do totally agree with you, not fixing the range is annoying - using thermviewer, it often gets the temperature reading VERY wrong, but in a couple of the 40 second segments I did get it to work and it is reporting a temperature that is within 10 deg of the thermal sensors I have in the hot isle, so I included it for them. I have found that if I mount the camera, turn on OTG, then open the HTI image app, close the HTI image app, THEN open ThermViewer - the temperature ratings in therm viewer then start to work and not report hundreds of degrees incorrectly.

ThermViewer on my phone is very buggy, locking the temperature scales does not appear to work. Half of the time it opens sideways, and the trial button is off the screen - need to force quit and re-open. Again, I've not found/read a manual for the app. I have a Oneplus6. Image quality is best with ThermViewer, though options to control gradient scaling and etc are either broken or not useful enough.


So, there's a known issue with the HTI-301 where it's not possible to configure it to only measure within a set range of temperatures? This isn't a camera-app specific feature? If so, perhaps it can still be "faked" as a post-process by the app by taking the reported min-max and applying a scaling gradient? (In much the same way you can apply brightness/contrast offsets, or adjust the gamma curve)

[PlainName]

This isn't a camera-app specific feature?

Not having one, I can't say for sure (happy to be given one to try!), but the A1 has that 'feature' and it doesn't use a phone app. Don't know why - surely can't be hard to implement. Other makes of camera allow setting a fixed range, both those using a phone app and standalone devices.

[alex871]

This app, go better ?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thermappplus&hl=it

[bitcore]

This app, go better ?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thermappplus&hl=it

Ciao alex871, I'll have to give that app a try when I have time to play with it. Google play allows a 2 hour refund after purchase. Grazie.

I found the instructions for the ThermViewer app - apparently long-pressing on the record button enables >40 second videos. Instruction graphic attached here. Their website is nearly empty, however: https://thermviewer.com/

[alex871]

let me know how it goes 

[zrq]

This app, go better ?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thermappplus&hl=it

I doubt whether this app can work with HTI or Xtherm dongles, since it's specifically designed for Therm-App cameras

[alex871]

to risk throwing 6 euros into the bucket, you can do it

 

[NinetySix]

It didn't work on my partner's phone, Huawei mate 20 pro. Refunded.

[ixfd64]

How does the quality of the HTI-19 compare to that of similar cameras from FLIR or Fluke?

https://amazon.com/Resolution-Infrared-Included-Lightweight-Comfortable/dp/B07MGZP12J

I'm aware HTI isn't a brand name, but the fact that the costs are an order of magnitude lower seems almost too good to be true.

[Vipitis]

for all we know, this one looks very suspiciously close to the Seek core and lens. Quality can mean very different things but image quality wise a E4 is way ahead.

[NinetySix]

Sorry, I was referring to thermapp plus not working with the 301. No trouble with the the HTI app downloaded directly from the HTI website (instead of from the Play store) on both my partner's mate 20 pro or my pixel 3a xl, both running Android 10. The play store version is only good for Android 9, and it does warn you of that, which is nice I guess.

[ixfd64]

for all we know, this one looks very suspiciously close to the Seek core and lens. Quality can mean very different things but image quality wise a E4 is way ahead.

I found some sample images online, and the FLIR images are indeed much clearer. You get what your pay for.

[NinetySix]

I'm gonna have to disagree with that one. Yes they have done a good job implementing msx with the visible light camera, but there sure ain't much detail when it's set to thermal only. 80x60 resolution is just not in the same league as the hti-301, and call me a purist, but I'm just not a fan of visible/thermal composite images... Especially when it's dark

If it's a successfully hacked E4 with 320x240 (or whatever they can get up to) resolution then maybe, but it's not really an E4 any more then

A friend of mine has a flir E75, and though we haven't done a side by side comparison, he was blown away by the picture on the ht301, especially the frame rate.... Even though his does 30hz  doesn't have to manually focus it either, and it can likely handle being dropped too!

This calls for a side by side shootout  once I fix the wonky usb-c plug on my 301 that is..... Anybody else having trouble with it falling out of their phone, or the connection dropping out? My charge port is brand new, and it's definitely not dirt causing it.

[Conure]

How is the ability to lock temperature ranges? On TE-Q1 it's very bad. The color keeps changing widely.

[PlainName]

On TE-Q1 it's very bad. The color keeps changing widely.

Are you sure you mean the TE-Q1? The Android app allows locking of the range, and once locked the colours don't change. It's not obvious how to put the lock on or how to change the range having done so, but you can do it

[Conure]

On TE-Q1 it's very bad. The color keeps changing widely.

Are you sure you mean the TE-Q1? The Android app allows locking of the range, and once locked the colours don't change. It's not obvious how to put the lock on or how to change the range having done so, but you can do it

Yes. Back in some other thread I had some other guy agreeing with me. I lock the ranges but as I move the camera around the colors change.

[PlainName]

OK. My app is pretty old. I'll make sure not to update it

[alex871]

Ht-301 locking of the range, and once locked the colours it change very well

[alex871]

sorry but ht-301 saves radiometric images for post processing?  it would be too good....

[NinetySix]

In ThermViewer you can configure it to save temperature data, I think it saves it as a .CSV file. Annoyingly, it creates a new folder for each image and temperature data file, which makes for a huge mess of folders in the Google photos app

[alex871]

I have seen but the files are not .csv but one .json and the other .txt then there is the .png image file
How are they visualized in post production for processing?
Thanks so much

[alex871]

Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz__aHMlNv4&feature=youtu.be

[NinetySix]

I think Thermovision_JoeC might be able to analyse the data. The .txt file contains temperature values like "3072 2983 2975 3004" for 30.72, 29.83, 29.75, 30.04 deg C. I assume that's the value for each and every pixel

[alex871]

I think Thermovision_JoeC might be able to analyse the data. The .txt file contains temperature values like "3072 2983 2975 3004" for 30.72, 29.83, 29.75, 30.04 deg C. I assume that's the value for each and every pixel

I've tried with Thermovision_JoeC now but can't open the txt file

[Bill W]

If the file coding is that simple, then a bit of file manipulation (hex editor, spreadsheet or even NotePad++)  and then Image J to display.  No software authoring needed.

Image J can import a 'text image' where it gets a text file with each pixel a text value.


Bill

[RBsonic]

Some photos from inside

[RBsonic]

[RBsonic]

[ Specified attachment is not available ]

[RBsonic]

[NinetySix]

Be very careful with the fpc ribbon cable for the USB plug, especially where it is folded 180 degrees then stuffed into a very tight gap between the USB plug PCB and the main board & shutter...

I can only imagine that a hard 180 degrees crease of an fpc ribbon is generally considered poor practise. The copper had snapped at the bend, only the polyimide was holding it together.

After only the 2nd disassembly... The first was due to water ingress (they could have made this camera ip67 with very little effort or added cost!) which had me worried... The camera just wasn't working at all, no click from the shutter no detection of anything by the phone, open it up and rinse it out with IPA, let it dry, reassemble and it works perfectly again... Then the USB plug seemed to be the issue, like constantly disconnecting unless you held the camera firmly against the phone, and eventually not working at all any more.

I've emailed HTI but I guess they are having a week off for lunar new year

[alex871]

Be very careful with the fpc ribbon cable for the USB plug, especially where it is folded 180 degrees then stuffed into a very tight gap between the USB plug PCB and the main board & shutter...

I can only imagine that a hard 180 degrees crease of an fpc ribbon is generally considered poor practise. The copper had snapped at the bend, only the polyimide was holding it together.

After only the 2nd disassembly... The first was due to water ingress (they could have made this camera ip67 with very little effort or added cost!) which had me worried... The camera just wasn't working at all, no click from the shutter no detection of anything by the phone, open it up and rinse it out with IPA, let it dry, reassemble and it works perfectly again... Then the USB plug seemed to be the issue, like constantly disconnecting unless you held the camera firmly against the phone, and eventually not working at all any more.

I've emailed HTI but I guess they are having a week off for lunar new year

How come you had this problem? Is it an isolated case or is it a frequent problem?

[NinetySix]

I may have just been unlucky, but I think it's safe to say that the fpc ribbon really wasn't designed with being able to access the internals in mind.

A brief Google search found the below on another forum, from a design guide for LCD displays:

Typical FPC are rated 0.3 mm thick at the contact point stiffener. This is not the bending point.
Most FPC are thinner away from that point. For an FPC that is 0.120 mm thick in the bend area, the minimum bend radius is 1.2 mm for a 90 degree bend. A 180° bend requires a larger radius to prevent creasing. Small radius bends greater than 90° should be formed ONCE and not unbent.

There is probably less than 1mm of room for the 180 degree bend in the fpc on the 301, so if the last sentence above is anything to go by, you're gonna need to replace the ribbon should you ever need to take the USB plug out of the camera...

If you get it wet, just take the back cover off and rinse with isopropyl alcohol, save yourself some grief by not moving the fpc for the usb-c

[NorVik]

Im ordering the ht-301, seems pretty awesome!

Now here is the big question...... Would it somehow be possible to use this somehow connected/strapped to a DJI Mavic Mini (249g)?
The small size of this is good for regulations, so if its possible somehow to use this for this kind of application, that would be awesome!

Any ideas?

[RBsonic]

Ice water.  All palletes

https://youtu.be/SFOn1joRf90

[alex871]

[PlainName]

Those videos are very impressive, but unless the temperature range can be locked they're much less useful than first appears. For instance, suppose you had a second pan of whatever it is and you want to just check if this one is close to the same temperature. You pan to the other, ah, pan and see that the colour is a good match. Simples. except if you can't lock the palette range then the colour is pretty meaningless as soon as you change the average temperature in the view.

[alex871]

Those videos are very impressive, but unless the temperature range can be locked they're much less useful than first appears. For instance, suppose you had a second pan of whatever it is and you want to just check if this one is close to the same temperature. You pan to the other, ah, pan and see that the colour is a good match. Simples. except if you can't lock the palette range then the colour is pretty meaningless as soon as you change the average temperature in the view.

It is possible to block but in the video I did not

[PlainName]

OK, thanks

[alex871]

Photo from Rome

[therwp]

This calls for a side by side shootout  once I fix the wonky usb-c plug on my 301 that is..... Anybody else having trouble with it falling out of their phone, or the connection dropping out? My charge port is brand new, and it's definitely not dirt causing it.

Yup. And I posted a solution that works for my device today. Copying from that thread:

"The HT-301 is a great thermal imaging camera, but mine is less-than-great at reliably connecting to my Samsung Galaxy S9+ over USB-C. The app will often close because of a lost connection, and I have had to use a rubber band around the camera and phone just to hold it in the right spot (once I find it) so as to avoid losing the connection. That solution kind of works most of the time.

But I found a solution that does work. All of the time.

I have a few USB-C in-line power meters that pass data through. For reasons unknown to me, the HT-301 works perfectly when connected to the phone through a power meter. Directly? It almost never works the first couple of tries and is shaky thereafter. I don't understand why this would work, but it absolutely does. If anyone out there is having the same issue, try this. You'll once again be thrilled with your purchase. And if anyone out there understands what's going on here, I'm certainly curious.

Very interested in hearing whether it works for yours as well.

(Photos in the other thread. For some reason I can't convince them to embed here.)

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/a-sort-of-solution-to-ht-301-intermittent-usb-c-connectivity/

[matohak]

Does it come with a protective carrier case and what does it look like?

[RBsonic]

Does it come with a protective carrier case and what does it look like?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/hti-ht-301-384-x-288/msg2814034/#msg2814034

[NinetySix]

I posted in that thread... But what I'll say is, I've often gotten a far better connection using a short 90 degree USB-c extension lead, better at both ends. I think overall it's a fairly low quality plug that it comes with, and compared to better plugs - such as the kind that usually come with a phone, the charger lead on my last few Nexus/pixel devices has been top notch and all held up well for years... Perhaps it's just a bit more fussy about whom it mates with.

[matohak]

Also, does anyone know if we can buy alternative lenses for the HT 301? Are there any standards for the screw size / sensor sizes for this type of camera?

[RBsonic]

Also, does anyone know if we can buy alternative lenses for the HT 301? Are there any standards for the screw size / sensor sizes for this type of camera?

There is some information about screw size:
https://yadi.sk/d/cKbfsocK7y2jZg

[Ambassador]

I'm tired of looking for information. Is it possible to block the color palette in the native HT 301 app?
If there is, how do I do it?
 

[RBsonic]

I'm tired of looking for information. Is it possible to block the color palette in the native HT 301 app?
If there is, how do I do it?
 

You need to ask people who can decompile and work with HTI Image.apk file

[Ambassador]

OnePlus 7Pro + HT-301
Temperature meter, liar.
I tried all the settings... In the photo, the best result!
The result with the settings is like in the picture.
All other devices are calibrated, their errors are known to the owner.
Make your (or repeat my) experiment and see the measurements.
When I set all the settings as in the tutorials, the results were very bad (incorrect).

[RBsonic]

OnePlus 7Pro + HT-301
Temperature meter, liar.
I tried all the settings... In the photo, the best result!
The result with the settings is like in the picture.
All other devices are calibrated, their errors are known to the owner.
Make your (or repeat my) experiment and see the measurements.
When I set all the settings as in the tutorials, the results were very bad (incorrect).

Of cause you have incorrect measements. You forgot that thermal conductivity of glass is not 100%. So, temperature of glass is not equal temperature of water inside.
Just find dark color aluminium cup (coca-cola or pepsi can) and try again. And don't forget to set new setting (espesially emissivity)

[Ambassador]

I will do as you advise. But the truthful result is doubtful.
The error of the glass radiation can not be so great.

[RBsonic]

I will do as you advise. But the truthful result is doubtful.
The error of the glass radiation can not be so great.

I measured boiled water and ice water. And result was O.K. 

[Ridma]

Hi Guys,

First time seeing HTI capabilities but it surely look amazing! However, I understand that the post processing is not enabled with non-radiometric images.
Plus they dont have a software dedicated for the same. Please confirm this. Thank you in advance.

[ir.ukrm]

Looks like this model is used here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermal-Imaging-Non-Inductive-Temperature-Detection-Helmet/174283374321?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225086%26meid%3D4cfa6da2a93f41828c3118dadf027e67%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D193465928941%26itm%3D174283374321%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

[RBsonic]

Hi Guys,

First time seeing HTI capabilities but it surely look amazing! However, I understand that the post processing is not enabled with non-radiometric images.
Plus they dont have a software dedicated for the same. Please confirm this. Thank you in advance.

You can get raw data file with thermviewer app, but only in .txt format. If someone will write converter  to convert .txt raw file to other thermal image format, we can use the post processing of other company like flir. But now we have not this converter and the post processing is not available.

[struggles]

Hello,

I was wondering if there was a way to get the HT-301 to work on PC?

Thank you

[RBsonic]

I have question for all who use HT-301 with HTI Image App.

If I see on my phone I see this picture:




But if I make photo, the picture is longer on the right side.




So App shows a shortened picture.




My phone has 1920 x 1080 px  screen resolution with hardware buttons. Can you test and say if you have same situation.
But if you answer, please write your phone model and screen resolution.

[RBsonic]

No one can test it ??!!   

[Nogtail]

My phone has 1920 x 1080 px  screen resolution. Can you test and say if you have same situation.
But if you answer, please write your phone model and screen resolution.

I originally used the app on my now deceased OnePlus 3T (RIP) with a 1920x1080 screen but hardware buttons and didn't notice any problems. I'm now using the app on a Google Pixel 2 with a 1920x1080 screen, but software buttons which are always visible. I get a very noticeably cropped view in the app with half the logo obscured by the UI. Pictures and video come out fine though.

[Nicky]

Hi  we have updated the app of ht-301 , pls download it from our official website . or send it to you , my email  hti201801@hotmail.com

[Ambassador]

program v301-2020.08.18
Nothing new, only now you can hide the logo.
The cross with the highest temperature, twitches like crazy.

[svgurus]

So, noone tried putting  lenses from thermal expert q1 on hti 301 or iray t3s? the sensors seem to be of same size

[RBsonic]

I tried to screw out lens (HT-301) to reduce focus distance, but it seems that lens has a locking inside.

[zorek]

so you couldn't get the lens off? At the beginning of this thread someone posed pics of the lens/mount

https://yadi.sk/d/cKbfsocK7y2jZg

I'm also interested in a wider field of view, but it looks like the et-q1 is the best option, unless there's a way to replace this lens

[kwukduck]

So i've been messing around with the HT-301 for a bit, i love the crisp view and good ability to see small variations in temperature and high frame rate.
However, measuring temperature is highly inconsistent and varies over time. Both with HTI app and Thermviewer.

When i just let the camera stare at one point it will change temperature over time, slowly dropping down 0.1 degree every second or a few. It starts at 28 degrees C and over the coming minutes it will show a drop to around 24. Until it recalibrates with a click (or triggered manually) and goes back to 27 again, starting the whole process again.
The difference with every reset seems to become smaller as well until about 15 minutes continuous operation, at that point recalibrating will set it to around 24 degrees where it will stay.

Is this normal behavior? Is it an effect of the camera having to 'warm up'?

I calculated the 'temperature correction' at the temperature it indicates after 'warming up', this seems most reliable.
But effectively this means the device is useless for any temperature measurements the first 15 minutes or so, is this the case with all thermal imagers? A fluke of this specific model or mine specifically? (I realize thermal imagers are not the best to get an EXACT temperature reading, but a decent estimate would be useful)

[Fraser]

That sounds like normal behaviour for the sort of camera you are using.

When it comes to temperature stability there  are commonly three types of microbolometer used in thermal cameras. The fully temperature stabilised microbolmeter uses an integrated Peltier element to maintain the die operating temperature at the set level. There are microbolometers that contain a small heater instead of a Peltier element and these can heat the die to the set operating temperature but cannot cool it. Finally there are the non temperature stabilised microbolometers that contain neither a Peltier Element nor a heater. Such microbolometers are now common and operate in the “thermal equilibrium” mode. That is to say, the microbolometer die warms up due to self heating from it and the ROIC beneath it. At some point the self heating balances with the natural heat loss of the microbolometer and thermal equilibrium is reached. This is in no way a stable state as the microbolometer is sensitive to changes in ambient temperature around it. The solution to the non stabilised microbolometer temperature drift problem is the careful characterisation of the microbolometer in an environmental chamber to establish the effects of ambient temperature changes on its output. It is possible to create correction tables that counter the effects of ambient temperature change and the Flat Field Correction flag (if one us used) may be used as a calibration reference as its temperature is known.

Why does your camera take 15 minutes to reach thermal equilibrium of the microbolometer ? There can be many reasons for this but commonly the time to stabilise can be a variable dictated by the microbolometer design, its mounting and the Delta T that is present around the microbolometer module in the period after initial switch on from ‘cold’. In the case of the dongle cameras, the support electronics will be producing heat and this will create a Delta T around the microbolometer until thermal equilibrium is reached within the Dongles casing. Only then can the microbolometer also reach thermal equilibrium. As mentioned, it is possible to measure the ambient temperature around the microbolometer and apply corrections to measurements..... but how well that works depends upon how well the camera is designed.

The lower cost thermal cameras are not well known for temperature measurement accuracy and their manufacturers sometimes make it clear that they are not accurate Radiometric thermal cameras. Some models of dongle thermal camera may be more accurate than others depending upon how the ‘warm up’ period is handled by the firmware etc.

To answer your question...... no I do not think your camera us faulty. Yes I think it is behaving like many other such cameras.

Fraser

[bap2703]

All uncooled thermal imagers discussed here are bolometers = a thermometer that is heated by the infrared flux.
Being a thermometer it's just sensitive to all temperature variations such as the one caused by its own operation.
That's a intrinsic feat of thermal imagers.

One way to mitigate that is to calibrate the camera at many operating temperatures, but that's expensive. Another way could be to regulate the temperature of the camera, that's also expensive (and power hungry). Having a temperature feedback loop as close as possible to the sensor is also an option, guess what, that's expensive 

Not all thermal imagers are made equal and that shows in specifications : the temperature uncertainty will range from 1% of reading +- 1°C to 5% of reading +-5°C. The most common being 2% +- 2°C like your HT-301. (and I suppose that's optimistic / applicable only under "normal" conditions)

Burnt by Fraser 

[Fraser]

It is also worthy of note that when I discussed the temperature measurement accuracy of the FLIR E4 with FLIR they confirmed my belief that it is operated in a non temperature stabilised thermal equilibrium mode. The microbolometer die rises in temperature to around +32C through self heating and at that point thermal equilibrium is reached. This can take a few minutes to occur and is in no way a stable state ! The camera monitors the ambient temperature around the microbolometer and applies corrections to measurements. The accuracy of the measurements decreases the further away you go from the ambient temperature at which the camera was calibrated. This is because the correction tables are less than perfect in The E4  FLIR consider the Ex series “accurate enough” for the intended market segment at the most common ambient temperatures.

More expensive thermal cameras either use a temperature stabilised microbolometer or they employ far more sophisticated temperature correction tables that necessitated extensive development and environmental chamber testing. Such efforts are not normally justified for ‘budget’ cameras. The FFC flag can be a very useful tool to the camera designer however. If you know the surface temperature of the FFC flag and use it as a Blackbody reference surface, you can correct measurement errors in the cameras measurement system, at least for a short period after an FFC event. This is why the FLIR Lepton uses an FFC flag to improve its measurement accuracy over the version that has no FFC flag. Any budget thermal imaging camera that does not incorporate an FFC flag will likely struggle with measurement accuracy and even those with such a FFC flag may not be very accurate due to other factors influencing temperature measurement performance, such as the available Emissivity offsets.

Fraser

[kwukduck]

@Fraser
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense and is what i thought is going on too. After this 15 minutes it's quite stable and useable, i've not done many tests yet where accuracy is concerned once it's in 'equilibrium', when i do i'll report back my findings here.

Can you explain how the calibration click sets it back higher again? Why wouldn't it just continue drifting down to the 'real' temperature from before the calibration click as it's getting closer to equilibrium?
I'm not even sure what this calibration click does exactly or what triggers it to do so automatically.

[Fraser]

I regret that without knowing more about how this dongle camera deals with its temperature change compensation I cannot say why it behaves exactly as it does. The 'click' is the FFC flag solenoid bringing the FFC Flag into the optical path in front of the microbolometer.

The FFC event is triggered more often after a cold start in order to manage the output of the microbolometer as it warms up. The FFC events become less frequent after thermal equilibrium has been reached. From that point on the FFC event management works to maintain a flat image field and also to check measurement accuracy against the FFC flags known temperature. Corrections are then applied to provide the best performance possible, or adequate performance in the case of lesser cameras. The FFC flag event management system can activate an FFC event at a fixed interval dictated by the manufacturers product profiling or it can dynamically apply the FFC in response to ambient temperature change limit or detected excess drift in the microbolometer die temperature. Some cameras use a combination of both fixed and dynamic FFC event activation.

Fraser

[Angel1024]

Fraser,kwukduck,bap2703
I have same behavior on T3S, i using ThermViewer app with it and this app can lock colour palette for maximum and minimum readings. Factory app, Xtherm Infrared and HTI Image both working with this camera but no have this function. I think ThermViewer will work with HT-301 too because soft for HT-301 works fine with T3S.

The body for this camera is maded from aluminium and its perfectly conducting heat and cold too. Microbolometer requires a constant temperature whenever opearting, in "serious, professional" measurment devices using thermal regulator such as Peltier element to keep microbolometer temperature constant, but this camera designed for use as cellphone gadget and add Peltier regulator inside it will drain cellphone battery very quck. And camera will be bigger than now. Make thermoisolated case also affect on mobile gadget size.
But we can provide conditions to use this mobile phone toy as measurment instrument by keeping in mind easy "feature" of this camera:
this device very sensitive to ambient temperature changing because it have non thermo isolated aluminium body and no internal regulator inside. Whenever you adjusting focus your fingers warm up lens and body of camera and microbolometer inside camera will change own temperature too. As result - measurment readings will float (Accuracy of 2-3-5% and pro\not pro its just an marketing tricks, this kind of cameras all just are usb cellphone toys with app )
So if ambient temperature is constant and device is warmed up, thermal equilibrium has been reached, this will measure very accurate. But if we touch it with warm hands or cold something or go outdoor in winter it needs to reach equilibrium and need wait some time, more temperature difference - more longer time to wait equilibrium.
And lens i think need to try cover with something not so thermalconductive as aluminium, maybe plastic ring, to adjust focus without fingers temperature interference, or maybe work in winter gloves  it's not bug, it's a feature.

[rasselfast]

Received my copy of HT-301, disappointed with the quality of the sensor. My copy has visible image defects, 2 pixels are damaged. These pixels are very visible and interfere with your device. Each pixel has a secondary illumination around itself, I think it is dust particles directly on the surface of the temperature-sensitive element of the sensor. Dust particles on the surface of the protective window will not give such a bright effect, they will be out of focus. I have schematically depicted the proposed sensor device and the location of the dust particles (picture attached).

The very next day, I returned the device to the seller, yesterday I received a refund for the value of the goods from the trading platform, but the customs payment in the amount of about 80 USD was lost irretrievably. I will re-order, but from a different seller. So the quality of the HT-301 is a lottery?

[Vipitis]

the dead pixels get their halo due to sharpening. But you should normally have them mapped out on a fresh device. Not sure if you can do a dead pixel map by yourself.

[rasselfast]

While I had the device, I connected it to my computer and got a picture without interpolation and found 2 more dead pixels (2 black dots). The dead pixels are invisible when using the official phone app. Probably, when the device is turned on, the application creates a map of dead pixels and they are masked when displayed. The other two pixels with halo effect are clearly visible in the application, the reason is not broken pixels, but dust. Maybe I'm wrong. In the picture without interpolation, the halo effect with a radius of 1 pixel is clearly visible, without interpolation, each pixel is independent of the neighboring pixels, this suggests a parasitic illumination of neighboring pixels from a dust particle. The official application interpolates the original image by increasing the size of the defect to a radius of 7-8 pixels. I was very sorry that I had not filmed the video, it was very clearly visible there.

[zrq]

I don't think <10 bad pixels are something that worth complaining about given the typical normal pixel operability of 99.6%
 for the FLIR cameras on datasheets. You may point the camera to the clear night sky (~seeing 4K cosmos background +some scattered radiation) and you can see some if not all the dead pixels, even masked.
You can try to reach to the manufacturer and I'm sure they have some way to mask the defective pixels in the firmware (maybe by sending some unknown Zoom channel commands, please share if you know). I'm 100 percent sure about this as mine also developed 2 dead pixels in the first 2 months of its life, and I successfully returned it to the manufacturer to get these pixels masked.

[rasselfast]

I have no complaints about broken pixels, I saw them only after I saw the picture without interpolation. They are invisible when using the official app. Dead pixels are most likely calculated automatically when the device starts up, for this it is enough to compare a couple of frames and find identical pixels - the map is ready. A healthy pixel makes noise, while a dead one gives the same value. In this way, you can hide newly appearing dead pixels and there is no need to contact the manufacturer. But this is unreliable information - these are my assumptions.

But there is a problem: these are spots on an already finished picture after all post-processing. In the screenshots, these are spots with a diameter of about 15 pixels that hang motionless and constantly change their color. Located one on the top left, the other on the right below the logo. In post #174, the color screenshot has two orange spots. They are very visible and irritating. This is a clear visible defect that is not hidden, but enhanced. As I wrote earlier, I am inclined to believe that this is a dust particle that is located directly on the temperature-sensitive element of the matrix and has a size comparable to the pixel size. The dust particle "shines" on adjacent pixels to create a halo effect.

[All Seeing Eye]

My dog for T2search

[Odiug]

Hi All,

I received my HT-301 yesterday and also have this rather loose lens. That's annoying! It's so loose that the focus is not stable.

When I try to unscrew I will hit a resistance. I did not dare to apply excessive force. Is it just a "soft" stop and can I safely unscrew further?
Yes, I saw the pictures of a disassembled device, but how was it done?

I was considering to use one or two turns of teflon tape on the thread.

Regards
Guido

[Odiug]

I was curious and had to open the device. 

You need an allen key with a size slightly smaller than 1.5 (metric) to remove the screws on the back. Maybe something imperial. I filed down a 1.5.


You can then carefully wiggle the whole electronics and shutter assembly out of the housing. No need to remove any additional screws. That's how the back of the lens looks like:


What you see is a metal ring with two bend clips hold in place by some sort of glue. It's soft like hotglue.



For now I did not dare to remove this in fear of scratching the lens. 

Regards
Guido

[Skashkash]

Hi All,

I received my HT-301 yesterday and also have this rather loose lens. That's annoying! It's so loose that the focus is not stable.

 The threads on my HT-301's lens were also too loose and rough for my taste.
 
  My lens does unscrew all the way, but it did not occur to me to try Teflon tape.
  So I put a very small amount of silicone/ptfe grease on the threads.
   
    Helped a lot.   
 
  PS.  Thanks for the pics. 
 

[Fraser]

A word of advice..... never use a grease on a focussing thread that can either outgas or migrate. Avoid silicone based greases as once applied they migrate and can be very hard to completely remove. Silicone grease is an excellent lubrication material but it is very badly behaved when it comes to seating where it is initially placed. If silicone grease migrates onto the cameras lens out the microbolometer window, it is very bad news.

The lubrication of optical threads should be done with optical grade greases that do not outgas or easily migrate. For situations where a high viscosity grease is required, look at optical helical greases as used on camera lenses, binoculars and microscopes. Helical greases are commonly available and sound appropriate for this cameras loose threads situation. It is not an inexpensive grease so a group buy may be an idea where a number of people share the contents of one pot of grease.

Make sure to choose a higher viscosity helical grease as you are dealing with a loose thread engagement situation and not a precision helicoid assembly !

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Japan-Hobby-Tool-Helical-Grease-for-Lenses-10-15ml-Helicoid-Repair-Lubricant-/123452055953

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Japan-Hobby-Tool-Helical-Grease/dp/B001500ZCC

https://www.micro-tools.de/en/Greases-Oils/Grease-Helical-10-Light-8ml.html

https://www.micro-tools.de/en/Greases-Oils/Grease-Helical-30-Medium-8ml.html

Google helical grease and you will find plenty of guidance from the photographic forums. I attach a viscosity chart for one helical grease maker. It came from here.....

http://forum.mflenses.com/helicoid-lube-question-t74606,start,25.html

I recommend reading the excellent post by ‘Gerald’ that appears half way down the thread page. He provides good insight into Helical grease behaviour and some good links to expert guidance.

The Japan Hobby Tool #30 Helical grease looks a promising viscosity for the task. There is the issue of focus drag however where a thick grease pulls the lens in the opposite direction to the focussing adjustment force when you release it. If this is likely with #30, go for #10.

Fraser

[Skashkash]

Re greases,
   That's interesting, I was not (originally) too worried about physical migration, but had never considered outgassing. 
    Not sure what kind of coating (if any)  is on the inner surface of the lens.

      Will clean and swap out with something more suitable. Or maybe just try some Teflon tape.

      Need something here, the threading is really quite loose and rough.
   

[Odiug]

Yes, thanks for the info on the greases. I was also thinking of applying silicone oil. 

Disclaimer: I haven't tried the teflon tape on this thread yet. I once applied it to a loose helical focuser of a Newton telescope (Skywatcher Heritage 130p). Beware: the thread could cut pieces of teflon tape loose. But those are easier removed than drops of grease.

It seems we are not the only ones with loose lens threads. Anybody from HTI reading here? Any comments on this?
If this would be a rare occurance, I could still return my unit.

Regards
Guido

[Fraser]

There really is no good excuse for poor quality lens threads. That is a quality control issue that should have been rectified at the casing prototyping stage. The issue is likely with the internal thread of the camera casing, rather than the lens barrel thread. The cause could be a cast thread that is of poor quality or a CNC cut thread of incorrect tolerances and/or poor tooling. The focus thread on any thermal camera should be fine threaded and smooth action with no significant lateral movement. In some camera designs a coil spring in placed around the lens barrel to apply a preload to the focus thread for better lens barrel stability. Such is often used in loose tolerance lens thread situations though. I personally would not accept a lens focus thread that was so loose that it permitted image shifting during focussing and/or a rough focus thread movement. The manufacturer should do better on such basic mechanical elements of the design.

Fraser

[Odiug]

Fraser, I totally agree, but now I am stuck with this device.

I was also thinking if a kind of spring mechanism could be 3D printed to preload the lens. Internally there is no room for it, I guess. Outside there is no clear edge where a spring could push against the lens.

3D printing a new housing with a tighter thread? Could be challenging. There might be a reason why it is made of metal. OTOH the housing is not really used as a heatsink. Any designers out there?

But back to the endstop issue: This endstop ring is held into position with something that feels like hotglue. How sensitive is the lens to applying heat? I have no experience with this kind of lenses. I would have a hot air soldering station, so I could apply carefully controlled hot air.

Regards
Guido

[Jermoun]

Hi

I just received my HT 301 and when i connect it to my phone i cant see anything. Or it shows grey looking green where pixels change lil bit.
Adjusting the "zoom" doesnt help. What should i do ?

I tried this with Samsung galaxy tab A and Huawei p30 pro. Both has the same problem and the app was downloaded directly from manufacturer. App in google play didnt seem to work...

I added attachment what it looks like when taking pic....

[Fraser]

I do not know what overlay options were set to appear in the sample image but I note that the company logo is missing. This could indicate a failure to complete the boot and configuration stages of the cameras startup.

If the captured image is not supposed to contain the logo, it looks like a potential stuck or inoperable FFC shutter that is sitting in front of the microbolometer. Is the centre spot temperature measurement function operable ? If so, see if it provides a reasonable reading that is either ambient temperature or a little higher due to self heating in the camera.

If the centre spot temperature appears reasonable the microbolometer is likely viewing the FFC shutter sitting in front of it.

[Jermoun]

Company logo was set off from the menu. When started after i hadnt touched to camera for 30 mins it showed temperature 32 C at middle. After a few minutes it shows 39 C in the middle. Room temperature is around 22.
Is there anything i could do to myself to Open that FCC ?
Or should i just return this piece and then hope for better one from them?

[Fraser]

Ah, as I suspected, the logo was set to ‘off’. For future reference, the appearance of the Logo helps us to determine whether the system completed its system boot correctly 

OK, those readings are exactly what I would expect of a thermal camera that has its FFC shutter stuck in front of the microbolometer 

Solutions ? That is more difficult to answer. The possibilities are listed below.......

1. The FFC shutter became jammed against its ‘closed’ end stop due to the package being dropped in transit. To resolve the situation there are two obvious approaches. Either gently tap the dongle on your hand to free the shutter or open the cameras casing and manually move the shutter to free it. Do not be tempted to bang the camera on a hard surface as that can cause harm to the fragile microbolometer pixels.

2. The FFC shutter mechanism is ‘free’ to move but the solenoid that operates it is faulty. Return to seller for exchange.

3. The FFC shutter mechanism is ‘free’ to move but the connections to the solenoid that operates it have become disconnected. Either open the units case and refit the connections or return the camera to the seller for an exchange.

4. The FFC shutter mechanism has suffered mechanical damage or distortion either at time of manufacture or whilst in transit. The shutter is fragile and not easy to repair. Return the camera to the seller for an exchange.

Warning: Some third party sellers may open the returned camera and ‘refurbish’ it before sending the same camera or another ‘refurbished’ unit back to you. I do not favour this approach and recommend you insist in a new and different camera rather than a ‘refurbished’ product.

If it is easy to open the cameras casing without breaking any seals etc I suggest you, or if not confident, someone who is, looks at the FFC shutter assembly. It might be a very simple ‘repair’ that avoids the hassle of a return and any complications associated with such.

Fraser

[Jermoun]

Hey Fraser !

It helped u were right ! The shutter didnt open for some reason but after i opened the case and moved it to open position the camera started working normal! Thank you a lot!

[Fraser]

Great news 

Sometimes a FFC shutter/flag can get stuck in the closed position through 'stiction'. Once freed it should not re-occur. Make sure that the FFC shutter behaves normally and that this issue is not being repeated. If it does re-occur, it would be worth studying the FFC shutter assembly carefully to see if there is a tight spot or contact point that is holding the FFC shutter closed. It could simply be slight distortion in the FFC shutter or its housing. Hopefully this issue will not re-occur though.

Fraser

[VHSteven]

Hi all,

Should it be of interest to someone...  
I received my HT-301 a month ago now and the feeling I had with the HTI app was pretty bad. Thermviewer tried but that too has problems.
The HTI app just doesn't work, thermviewer does but the pictures taken don't hold the info I had on screen nor does the export allow me to do post-processing.
In short, I have not had a "wow experience" so far and from reading this forum, I'm not alone.
I made inquiries to obtain the SDK to overcome this obstacle. From HTI I got the answer "no" - I sent zrq a pm on this forum but have not yet received a response back.
So I have been looking further and guess what: I found a way to do postprocessing on the images taken with the HT-301 
<<  sorry if you're already by now  >>

I started looking for windows apps and found the one from i3-thermalexpert.com called TE_Analist.
Together with the application came a folder with examples wich was nice to analyse the file structure it reads in and it had similarities... so I started working on converting one into the other.
It's WIP , and I started with a WhiteHot image taken from my device.
I found out that this app was using three files:
 * the IR image (saved as "..._IR.jpg")
 * a Visual picture ( " ..._VIS.jpg") and
 * a csv file ("...TEMP.csv")

For the VIS file, I used one from the examples. It doesn't match but who cares. I don't...
The IR.jpg was my jpg saved by thermviewer but from testing the app doesn't seem to use it.
So, to be expected, the interesting file was the csv one.

I wrote a function in powershell that I could launch from the prompt taking my ...temps.txt file as input and generating half of the TEMP.csv file.
Half since the csv is twice as big...

To build the second half I had to save my jpg as an 8-bit bitmap (it's only grey anyway) and grab the pixel values.
This worked!!!
I now have a postprocessing tool allowing me to switch colormap in postprocessing, adapt the ranges & everything.
This second half has not yet been automated though, I'm still crunching on that aspect ( I'm but an amateur-developer) but the concept is working.

This is the powershell function I used:

Code: [Select]

function SplitFile([string]$srcFile, [int]$w)
{
  $acc_val="8", "384"
  If (-not ($w -in $acc_val) )
  { "Illegal input: {0}, accepted values are 8 or 384 " -f $w
  return}

# First we set the destination filename out of the input filename
# go from file 'C:\...temps.txt' to 'C:\...temp.csv'  (.log for testing purposes)
  $a_File=$srcFile.split("\")
  $cnt=$a_File.Count-1
  if ($cnt -eq 0 -Or $a_File[0].Indexof(":") -eq 0 )
  {
     "Path info missing, incomplete or incorrect (No ':' or '\' found)"
     return
  }
  if ( $a_File[$cnt].Indexof("temps.txt") -eq 0 )
  {
    "Bad Input File-name (I expected temps.txt at end): {0}" -f $srcFile
    return
  }
  $pos=$a_File[$cnt].Indexof("s.txt")
  $a_File[$cnt]="IMG_"+$a_File[$cnt].Substring(0,$pos)+".log"

  $destFile=$a_File -join '\'
  if (Test-Path $destFile)
  {
     Remove-Item $destFile
  }

# Now start processing the sourcefile
# Start by appending a space at the end, we need it for the chunking to match.
# we're going to chunk it in lines of $n chars, then divide all entries by 100 keeping the resolution to 2 decimals and finally change the
# delimiter from space to comma.

  $a = gc $srcFile
  $a = $a + " "
  $n = $w * 5
  $min = 1000
  $max= 0

  "Reading from: {0}" -f $srcFile
  "Writing to: {0}" -f $destFile
  "New line every {0} characters or {1} temperature readings" -f $n, $w

  do
  {
      $lijn=$a.substring(0,$n)
      $a=$a.Substring($n)
      $a_lijn=$lijn.split(" ")
      $lijn = ""
      $a_lijn | ForEach-Object {
         "{0:n2}" -f ($PSItem / 100)
      }
     
      for ($i=0; $i -lt $w; $i++)
      {
         $a_lijn[$i] = "{0:n2}" -f ($a_lijn[$i] / 100)
         If ($max -lt $a_lijn[$i]) {$max = $a_lijn[$i]}
         If ($min -gt $a_lijn[$i]) {$min = $a_lijn[$i]}
      }
      $a_lijn -join ',' | out-file -encoding ascii -append $destFile
   } while ($a.length -ge $n)
   "Highest temperature found: {0}" -f $max
   "Lowest temperature found: {0}" -f $min

# now remove the last <CR><LF> from the output file.
   $stream = [IO.File]::OpenWrite($destFile)
   $stream.SetLength($stream.Length - 2)
   $stream.Close()
   $stream.Dispose()
}

Any feedback welcome, congrats & booing all fine (as long as you have a good reason for it  )

Cheers!

[VHSteven]

As a proof of concept, I mixed two of my own saved IR images:
 * the first half of the temp.csv file (temp-readings) are from one picture (the colored one on top right)
 * the second half (this is used to build the IR-image) is retrieved from the bitmap values out of the IR jpg from another picture.

[VHSteven]

I made some progress and a new script (v1.0 if you like).
If you want to try it yourself, you'll need:
  *  the app Thermal Expert analyst (can be downloaded freely from their website)
  * Irfanview 64-bit (or 32-bit with slight modification of the script below), update your PATH environment variable to include i_view64.exe!
  * Windows 10 with powershell (the code below is a powershell function/script)
  * a folder "OUTPUT", in the same folder you have your exports from thermviewer in, and from where you'll launch the script.

It's best to use Thermviewer with WhiteHot as the color panel, that has been tested, the others might but are not verified.
I select the other color panels and manipulations in postprocessing much more conveniently.
It now allows for temperatures >100°C as well as <0°C (negative numbers)

Here's the updated powershell script:

Code: [Select]

function IRconv([string]$srcFile)
{
   $w = 384
   [single]$min = 1000.01
   [single]$max= -1000.01

# We need two inputs: the filename of the temp readings (formatted as date_time_temps.txt) & the filename of the jpg or png (formatted as date_time.txt).
# These are all as produced by Thermviewer. The _meta.json file is also created but not used (yet).
# That said, only one filename should be enough to retrieve the other one too so let's start.
# First we set the destination filename out of the input filename. For now, include the (relative or absolute) path ".\" or "c:\...\"
# go from file 'C:\..._temps.txt' to 'C:\IMG_..._TEMP.csv'
   $a_File=$srcFile.split("\")
   $cnt=$a_File.Count-1
   if ($cnt -eq 0 )
   {
      "Path info missing, so working directory is used"
      $Path=[String](Get-Location)
   }
   else
   { $path=$a_File[0..($cnt-1)] -join "\"
   }
   $Path=$Path + "\"
   "Working directory = {0}" -f $Path

   $pos= $a_File[-1].Indexof("_temps.txt")
   if ( $pos -gt 0 ) { "Received the txt file as input" }
   else
   {  $pos = $a_File[-1].Indexof(".jpg")
      if ( $pos -gt 0 )  { "Received the jpg-file as input" }
      else
      {
         $pos = $a_File[-1].Indexof(".png")
         if ( $pos -gt 0 )  { "Received the png-file as input" }
         else
         {
            "Unexpected file name received as input. Aborting execution"
            return
         }
      }
   }
   $destFile=$Path+"OUTPUT\IMG_"+$a_File[-1].Substring(0,$pos)+"_TEMP.csv"
   $ImgFile=$Path+$a_File[-1].Substring(0,$pos)+".jpg"
   $TempFile=$Path+$a_File[-1].Substring(0,$pos)+"_temps.txt"

   if (Test-Path $destFile)
   {
      Remove-Item $destFile
   }
   if (-not (Test-Path $ImgFile)) { $ImgFile=$Path+"\"+$a_File[-1].Substring(0,$pos)+".png" }
   "Reading temperatures from: {0}" -f $TempFile
   "Reading image from: {0}" -f $ImgFile
   "Writing to: {0}`n" -f $destFile

   if (-not ((Test-Path $TempFile) -and (Test-Path $ImgFile))) {
      "*** File(s) not found - aborting***"
      return
   }
# Now start processing the sourcefile
# Start by appending a space at the end, we need it for the chunking to match.
# we're going to chunk it in lines of $n chars, then divide all entries by 100 keeping the resolution to 2 decimals and finally change the
# delimiter from space to comma.
# Note: The temperatures need to me mirrored L <-> R !

   $a = gc $TempFile
   $a_list=$a.split(" ")
   $b_lijn=[Object[]]::new($w)

   If ($a_list.count%$w)
   {
     $mod= $a_list.count%$w
      "Input txt-file has a bad size for this script. Size= {0} - Modulo= {1}" -f $a_list.count,$mod
      return
   }

  # Transform all the temperatures
   for ($row=0; $row -lt 288; $row++)
   {
      $start=$w * $row
      $a_lijn=$a_list[$start..($start+$w-1)]

      for ($i=0; $i -lt $w; $i++)
      {
         $val= $w-$i-1
         $b_lijn[($val)] = "{0:n2}" -f ($a_lijn[$i] / 100 )
         If ($max -lt $b_lijn[$val]) { $max = $b_lijn[$val] }
         If ( ($min -gt $b_lijn[$val]) -and ( $b_lijn[$val] -ne $null ) ){$min = $b_lijn[$val]}
      }
      ($b_lijn -join (',') ) + "," | out-file -encoding ascii -append $destFile
     
   }
   "" | out-file -encoding ascii -append $destFile
   "Highest temperature found: {0}" -f $max
   "Lowest temperature found: {0}" -f $min

   # Now come's the part that writes the image in an automated way = the second half of the csv-file.
   # Again, the values written in the csv need to be mirrored but, now vertically !!
   $Tmpimg=$path+"TmpImage.bmp"

   & i_view64.exe $imgFile /resize_long=384 /resample /aspectratio /bpp=8 /gray /convert=$Tmpimg
   While ( (Test-Path $Tmpimg) -eq 0)  { start-sleep -s 1 }

   $a = [System.IO.File]::ReadAllBytes($Tmpimg)
     
   for ($i=0; $i -lt 288; $i++)
   {
      $lijn=($a[($a.count-($i*384)-384)..($a.count-($i*384)-1)] -join (',') )+","
      $lijn | out-file -encoding ascii -append $destFile
   }
   # copy the image file so it matches IMG_..._IR.jpg file - even though it doesn't seem to be used
   cp  $ImgFile ($Path+"OUTPUT\IMG_"+$a_File[-1].Substring(0,$pos)+"_IR.jpg")
   cp  $ImgFile ($Path+"OUTPUT\IMG_"+$a_File[-1].Substring(0,$pos)+"_VIS.jpg")
    # The _VIS.jpg is said to be optional but it needs to exist.
     
   # Don't forget to clean up.
   del ($Path + "TmpImage.bmp")
}


Some more pictures taken & successfully loaded in Thermal Exper Analyst for postprocessing.
I converted one new capture from my camera and made a couple of screenshots of the program.
The original png generated by the HT-301 is included as well for reference.

Have fun,

[Odiug]

Coming back to unscrewing the lens.

The unscrew stop ring is held in place by something that felt like hotglue, but it's a more crumbly stuff that can be (carefully) pealed away. It did not melt using a soldering iron (tried 150°C to 250°C).
The ring looks like this:



After removing a bit of the crumbly glue, I screwed the lens all the way in and clamped the lens in a small vice (with rubber protection). The stop ring then sticks a little bit out and can be grabbed with a pair of pliers. Turn it counter clockwise to those gaps:


The ring can then be removed.

I am not sure if the crumbly glue also helds the actual lens in place. So I only removed the loose parts.

I used a teflon strip of 10cm (4inches) length and 3mm wide and wound it around the lens thread. That seems to work for me.

Disclaimer: This worked for me. Be extremely careful not to scratch the lens. You are on your own! 

Regards
Guido

[svgurus]

Great work, VHSteven!) i was wondering about palette changing too but kinda busy now to try your method)
about tread looseness - looks its a teething problem to mobile imagers, hope they will handle it. Anyone bought Infiray t3s in 2021? maybe they got better in this term or were ok initially? i read about loose treads on thermal expert q1 and therm-app but they made new versions that have much better treads, i own them so i know) and own loose hti301, even usb connector looses contact more frequently)

[therwp]

Great work, VHSteven!) i was wondering about palette changing too but kinda busy now to try your method)
about tread looseness - looks its a teething problem to mobile imagers, hope they will handle it. Anyone bought Infiray t3s in 2021? maybe they got better in this term or were ok initially? i read about loose treads on thermal expert q1 and therm-app but they made new versions that have much better treads, i own them so i know) and own loose hti301, even usb connector looses contact more frequently)

I had thought that they were essentially the same product with different branding. No?

[VHSteven]

It could be but I don't think they are.
They share the image resolution but as proof from the paradox:
   - Their app doesn't work with the HT-301 camera.
   - if they were the same, I wouldn't have to write a conversion script 
So I think they resemble and the HT-301 shares the resolution (the sensor?) with the TE-Q1 but that's as far as it goes.

just my thoughts though...

[svgurus]

It could be but I don't think they are.
They share the image resolution but as proof from the paradox:
   - Their app doesn't work with the HT-301 camera.
   - if they were the same, I wouldn't have to write a conversion script 
So I think they resemble and the HT-301 shares the resolution (the sensor?) with the TE-Q1 but that's as far as it goes.

just my thoughts though...

Afaik, hti isn't microbolometer chip maker, Infiray is) Hti 301 and t3s are 100% same by specs and both work with therm viewer, so its almost the same product) also, my hti works with xtherm infrared app. Didnt try opposite or had t3s in my hands, but had a chat with guy who sold 2021 t3s model, they are making it in black case with 6,8mm lens now, it has bigger front element than ther-app or thermal expert, but guess the same distortion) also he said that it sits better in usb socket and lens thread sits good, maybe due to longer barrel, but the size looks the same as in hti. I'm going to buy this new t3s and make a review, maybe on youtube) some photos from seller are in attachment. TE-Q1 has TiO sensor, not VOx, and more noisy picture. But it is completely shutterless

[VHSteven]

It could be but I don't think they are.
They share the image resolution but as proof from the paradox:
   - Their app doesn't work with the HT-301 camera.
   - if they were the same, I wouldn't have to write a conversion script 
So I think they resemble and the HT-301 shares the resolution (the sensor?) with the TE-Q1 but that's as far as it goes.

just my thoughts though...

Afaik, hti isn't microbolometer chip maker, Infiray is) Hti 301 and t3s are 100% same by specs and both work with therm viewer, so its almost the same product) also, my hti works with xtherm infrared app. Didnt try opposite or had t3s in my hands, but had a chat with guy who sold 2021 t3s model, they are making it in black case with 6,8mm lens now, it has bigger front element than ther-app or thermal expert, but guess the same distortion) also he said that it sits better in usb socket and lens thread sits good, maybe due to longer barrel, but the size looks the same as in hti. I'm going to buy this new t3s and make a review, maybe on youtube) some photos from seller are in attachment. TE-Q1 has TiO sensor, not VOx, and more noisy picture. But it is completely shutterless

I don't really see the link to my post as I wasn't comparing against the t3s (from xtherm) but rather against the TE-Q1 (which is from Thermal Expert).
So two different things if you ask me...

[Messers]

Hi there!
I'm new to the forum, so if I'm asking dumb questions I apologize in advance!
I both have a HTI-301 (for a while, happy with it!) and a new T3s, which I got as it was offered for a price I couldn't resist to order. Both cams do work well with HTI or Xtherm app, I assume both apps are made from the same source, only minor differences.
The only problem I have is using the T3s as an UVC device. I use the thermal cams on my drones for animal rescue before harvests and the cameras need to work as a "normal" UVC webcam to be integrated into the video transmission system, I don't primarily need displayed temperatures or special colour palettes (although it surely would be a nice addition!).
UVC thermal video capture works great with the HTI-301, but when connecting the T3s to the system or any other PC, it is recognized as a UVC device, but I only get a green crumbled video, objects are barely visible. So, if anyone in here can give me a hint how to get the T3s to the same behavior and functionality as the HTI, I would be really happy!
Greetings,
Marcel

[therwp]

Are you saying that you can connect your HT-301 to your computer and get an image over regular UVC?

[Stephmw]

Standard UVC and VLC works ok for me... plug and play.

Works almost as well with the latest HTI app & my Galaxy S9+ too.

edit1: I rotated & flipped the VLC stream, but otherwise no other changes

edit2: added obligatory hot object (coffee mug) screenshot

[Djsajmy]

Does HTI have any discounts  / coupon code for Amazon?
I'm looking to get one on Amazon.de but it would be nice to get some discount on it

[Messers]

Yes, I get a "white hot" thermal video stream without any temperature information, but that's pretty fine for me,as I need to see objects (animals in size like deer, dogs and humans) with a significant temperature difference to the environment from a distance of 50-300 meters, and for this task the Hti makes a tremendous good job. Especially when compared to candidates like seek thermal compact pro or flir lepton sensors.
But the T3s does not spit out that kind of image directly , so there must be something to change in the software to get a UVC video stream. Any advice welcome!

[Ben321]

Yeah I've been seeing a bunch of these Hti Chinese cameras for phones now on eBay with decent prices and decent prices. I wonder how good the quality of their images actually is? Also, what is their framerate? Is it <9fps or is it more like 30fps or 60fps?

[RBsonic]

Also, what is their framerate? Is it <9fps or is it more like 30fps or 60fps?

It's 25fps. But it depends on your phone. I have old phone and sometimes I get 23-24fps
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/hti-ht-301-384-x-288/msg2814034/#msg2814034

[Ben321]

Is the HT301's VOx microbolometer actually 384x288? Or is it half that resolution, and then upscaled in the device's firmware image processing code?

[svgurus]

Is the HT301's VOx microbolometer actually 384x288? Or is it half that resolution, and then upscaled in the device's firmware image processing code?

Funny question) Its is an imager with detachable lens, you can see sensor size(or silicon/germanium cover, if you are tedious to that degree). With 17m pitch and 128*192 resolution, size of that nice looking mirror would be twice smaller. I also have 2 other imagers with that 384 resolution and 17m pitch, as far as i can remember the size is about equal.

[jiang_thermal imaging]

HT-301 uses infiray sensor 384*288, There is also Infiray T3S with same resolution, quality is better, but price is good.

[alexwhittemore]

UVC thermal video capture works great with the HTI-301, but when connecting the T3s to the system or any other PC, it is recognized as a UVC device, but I only get a green crumbled video, objects are barely visible. So, if anyone in here can give me a hint how to get the T3s to the same behavior and functionality as the HTI, I would be really happy!\

Sounds familiar. A buddy and I are working on some PC-side software to pull thermal video from the camera live (an HT-301, I mean).

The HT-301 connects via UVC, and has two modes. In the default mode, it outputs YUV data in greyscale, with two rows of pixels across the bottom encoding the hottest temp+coordinates, the coldest temp+coordinates, and a few other things. In other words, you get a grayscale image with no thermographic data, and absolute calculated temp extremes with coordinates.

In the second mode, which you enable by sending a UVC zoom command (or something like that, I forget), you get pixel data where the lower two bytes are 16-bit temperature data for each pixel, that requires some calculation involving ambient temp, humidity, and range, to massage into degrees C - in other words, absolute thermographic data, some assembly required. In this mode, the video when interpreted as YUV looks like a green blobby mess, where you can of course make out the details of the image and scene, but the green shades make no obvious sense.

It sounds like maybe the T3s has the same readout mode, and defaults to that.

Now before you get your hopes up - the software I'm working on is quite nonfunctional at the moment, and our calculation to go from pixel data to temp is verifiably wrong, so there's a long way to go

[thikone]

Got myself HT-301 after considering Seek Thermal CompactPro for very long time. After all, 25 Hz and more detailed image swayed my decision to spend more money.

At first, my Google Pixel 4a was crashing and rebooting when connecting the cam, right after granting permissions for official app. Apparently, it is known issue with late builds of Android 11 for Pixels, connecting any USB web cam would cause that (https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/183716542). Early builds of Android 11 and Android 12 seems to have it working. Downgraded to Android 11 RQ1A.210205.004, Feb 2021 which works now (don't Android 12 look).

Also thanks to this blog bough II-VI ZnSe 50.8 20mm lens and 3d-printed a holder for it for macro mode. One reason less to stick to Seek Thermal for which people sell such lens.

And I can connect it to PC with Win10 and use system Camera app to see white-hot picture from it (with some color rows at the bottom that are used to convey some additional data). It can also record videos or photos.

I like the official HTi app for Android better than ThermalViewer that I tried too.

However, there is one thing that is nagging me - static noise. When the whole surface is about the same temperature (no huge contrast) then I see that upper third of the image is 1-2 degree colder.
Like on this video:
https://youtu.be/Lu01O4SYT_g

Didn't see such artefacts on other people's videos. Should I return it and order a replacement?

[MegaVolt]

Didn't see such artefacts on other people's videos. Should I return it and order a replacement?

Sounds like a calibration issue. Do you hear the sound from the curtain? Manual start of the calibration has an effect?

[thikone]

Didn't see such artefacts on other people's videos. Should I return it and order a replacement?

Sounds like a calibration issue. Do you hear the sound from the curtain? Manual start of the calibration has an effect?

Interstingly enough, it only appears after like 3 minutes of working. Calibration does help a bit, but no near like it was right after cold start.

[Bill W]

In that case it is internal parts heating up that are beyond the shutter, or possibly the shutter itself.

Having a cold low contrast scene is making it look worse too.  You need to think more in terms of thermal energy than simple °C

Bill

[thikone]

In that case it is internal parts heating up that are beyond the shutter, or possibly the shutter itself.

Having a cold low contrast scene is making it look worse too.  You need to think more in terms of thermal energy than simple °C

Bill

But is it also like this for others, who has HT-301?

[MegaVolt]

But is it also like this for others, who has HT-301?

I don't have that effect. The picture has the same temperature.

[thikone]

Ordered a second one. Was hoping it will be perfect. But no... Second one has opposite problem. Upper quarter is always about one degree Celsius hotter.

Visually, it is somehow more appealing than the first one, that had upper quarter always cooler. But I don't want to be put up with lesser than average performance for this price.

When there is something very hot and very cold in the frame then it is less obvious, unless you check the temperature measurements. Here is an example of that:

https://youtu.be/hY4X6TohmA8

On white hot color schema it looks like this:

https://youtu.be/4UmvindkMcg

Manual calibration doesn't help much. I can see that it tries to compensate for it but only slightly and it is still visible.

Nobody else has notice something like this with theirs HT-301?

[superoni]

On Android 13 (Pixel 7), the HTI Image app is only partially working. Images work, but video recording will crash the app. Unfortunately, there doesn't appear to be any compatible alternative app for Android 13. ThermViewer is not supported on Android 13. Please let me know if there are any workarounds.

[Angel1024]

On Android 13 (Pixel 7), the HTI Image app is only partially working. Images work, but video recording will crash the app. Unfortunately, there doesn't appear to be any compatible alternative app for Android 13. ThermViewer is not supported on Android 13. Please let me know if there are any workarounds.

you can try inficam, i attach it. It for t3s but same hardware. Developer discord link is here https://discord.com/invite/GwsnAbwp7n

[NinetySix]

I'm not saying that you're not having trouble with thermviewer on your P7, but I can use thermviewer just fine on my P6A on Android 13