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Thermal eye 4500, 3600AS

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Collat3ral:
A couple of months ago i got these two thermal cameras on ebay for dirt cheap (30 pounds each, 4500 for me and 3600 for a friend). Today i've finally got JST-SH connectors to thest the cameras. Hard to find the 15 or 20 pin jst, so i got the 5 pin and modify to fit.
I must thank Fraser for providing me the software and documentation for the cameras. Big thanks!

Now I have a a couple of questions: Must you power the camera with 8+V to work or does it power from the USB for the programing? Currently it has a wierd colour overlay and i would like to turn it off.
Allso will it work below 8V? I plan to use a 7.4 li-po battery and try to avoid a voltage booster.
And when i power it up at 12v i have a battery monitor on the bottom of the screen. In the documentation i didn't find any reference about battery monitoring for the 4500 model

Hydron:
I suggest testing it's operation yourself below 8V - it _might_ tolerate a little lower than that but there will be internal voltages that need enough headroom to stay in regulation so you do need to be careful. The camera doesn't draw too much power so using a small boost converter is probably the best way to go from a 7.4V battery.

As for USB communication, you need to power it separately as well as connect the USB wires - I suspect that the USB Vbus input is simply to signal that a USB host is attached. When you turn the core on/off (via the electronic power off pin as well as by removing the supply completely) the USB connection is disconnected.

Finally, I have found that a real Windows XP machine is required to talk to these cores - a virtual machine with USB passthrough is unfortunately not sufficient.

Bill W:
I think it unlikely to run below 8V, as there is probably a low battery cut off.

As I assume you know from the manual, 'High Voltage In' is:

8 - 32V for pins 14 & 15 (of15) of the 35xxAS

8 - 16V for pins 14 & 15 (of 20) for the 36xxAS
This also supports 'Low Voltage' of 2 - 3.2V on pins 1,2,3
They are insistent on connecting all the available power pins, not just one +  and one -

8 - 32V for pins 14 & 15 (of 20) for the 45xxAS.

The battery control is on pages 55 & 56, 3600AS only for some reason best known to L3

The 2000AS was the odd one out, powered from 2.5 - 4.0, or 6 - 32V unless you added the 'Power Board' to accept 4 - 32V.
This was probably due to use in Raytheon's own products that ran on 2 x AA cells, and the same for the 3600AS in the X-1
http://www.americaninfrared.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID=43



regards
Bill

Collat3ral:
So a bit of an update:
I removed the expansion card and the weird coloring and battery level went away (don't need that atm, also I don't have the means to program it).
Printed a housing for the camera and a display that i hacked from a car DVR camera, but the resolution of the image is not that great. I think it's 320x240, so the text is blurry. Still looking for a small 640x480 display. Found this on eBay, anyone have any experience?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/640-480-DIY-Night-Vision-Scope-Viewfinder-Screen-FPV-Virtual-Monocular-Display/253609382006

As for the programming goes, i used an old pc at work with windows xp and got it to work. Found in the manual that the camera does not support hot plug, so you have to cycle it after connecting. Wish i read the manual sooner, would have saved me some frustration.

On the to-do list:
Sort out the messy wiring and get it to work on a couple of 18650 batteries

Hydron:
Another option is to use the digital video output on the expansion connector. This should be 640x480 RGB, possibly even in a format usable for talking directly to a parallel input display. You would need to use the software to configure the output to do this.

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