Uni-t UTi260B

[Ratisse]

That is fantastic! Thank you!!

You're welcome, tell me if something have to be modified.  Designing removable macro lens holder  and wall mount still in progress

[Ratisse]

Added swapable macro lenses to quickly change macro resolution

[Vitaliik]

Hello! Maybe somebody had this Problem. My UTI260b can't finish booting. With 100% he stops and that*s all. With completely low Battery i can start him somehow but not always. I have really no Idea what i can do and serching for new Firmware wasn*t succesfull. Thanks for Answer.
Video of unfinished booting https://www.youtube.com/shorts/mCEEwUoOahk

[Fraser]

If you are able to do so, return it to the company that sold it to you as that appears to be a fault situation. Firmware does not tend to corrupt itself without some provocation and trying to load new firmware on a unit that has a fault can just make a bad situation worse. It is potentially possible for the flash memory to corrupted by a faulty memory cell, but this is normally detected at boot.

In terms of what has gone wrong with the unit, it is impossible to know without looking at the output of the engineering port that shows boot progress. In many similar systems, the firmware is loaded into RAM and a self test executed. Once the self test completes and finds all the required sub systems, the firmware runs the camera operation code. If, at this point, the camera firmware issues a command to a sub system and does not receive the expected response, or nil response, the system can ‘hang’ either for an instruction execution time-out period (if such is implemented) or until the system is reset/re-started. The fact that the system appears to be responding to the torch and power ‘off’ keypad instructions could show that the processor is still running and a firmware routine is hanging awaiting a response from a sub system, but in some cases the torch and power on/off functionality is dealt with separately to the main processor and firmware (dedicated function IC’s).

Sorry I cannot be more specific in my comments but I have yet to work on a UT260B camera.

Fraser

[DavidThijs]

Added swapable macro lenses to quickly change macro resolution

What is the diameter of the lenses you use ? Is it a 12 or 20mm ?
Not sure why some people go with the 12mm while others take larger lenses.

[Silicium81]

Both work, with 12mm you have to place them close enough to the measurement window.
my support for 12mm lens: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/uni-t-uti260-3d-printed-accessories/msg4135633/#msg4135633

[Fraser]

Just a comment on 12mm Vs 20mm lens diameters. In general these ZnSe lenses were designed for use on a CO2 laser engraver and are not specifically designed for use on thermal imaging cameras. The performance of the lens is better towards its centre and often degrades as you move towards the outside edge. With this in mind, it is a good idea to go oversize on a lens to ensure best image quality.

Fraser

[Silicium81]

The 12mm diameter does not cause any annoying distortion on the Uti260b, this is surely not true on all thermal cameras!
Here are two thermal images that show it, it is a printed circuit board with 2.54mm pitch pads
The first with a 12mm lens with a 50mm focal length and the second still in 12mm with a 38mm focal length.
The distortions come mainly from a bad paralax to avoid reflections (mirror effects)
It can only be better with 20mm lenses but it is very acceptable with 12mm!

[markb1980]

Hello,

has anyone tested the UNI-T Software to analyze images and generate reports? The UTi260B is basically a Infiray C200/C210... Can I use there software too? Could somone please email me one or two radiometric sample images from a UTi260B?

Thanks guys.

[optotester]

Hi all,

If any one is willing to play with that camera, I advice to take a firmware backup first. There is a LVTTL header on the board that can be easily used with CH340 adapter.

(heat the screen borders with a hairdryer to remove it easily)

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any bricked device following these instructions.

Typical pinout for C200 - using almost same HW platform:
PIN1 - +3.3V (do not connect)
PIN2 - GND
PIN3 - TX (connect to RX on adapter)
PIN4 - RX (connect to TX on adapter)
Serial is 115200/8/1/n. Always identify ground and +3.3V with a multimeter first.

Boot sequence can be interrupted - from U-Boot, you can take a backup (done in chuncks of 256MB due to limited RAM - to save time you could do larger like 384MB as long as you do not override U-Boot relloc address/screen framebuffer but calculation is much easier with 256MB).
Considering 0x80000000 is the RAM start address (confirm that using bdinfo command), follow the steps:

PREREQ 1 - Insert a >=4GB SD Card
PREREQ 2 - mmc list--> you should see the SD Card and the Internal MMC

1 - mmc dev Y (where Y is the INTERNAL MMC)
2 - mmc read 0x80000000 0x0 0x80000
3 - mmc dev X (where X is the EXTERNAL SD)
4 - mmc write 0x80000000 0x0 0x80000
5 - mmc dev Y (where Y is the INTERNAL MMC)
6 - mmc read 0x80000000 0x80000 0x80000
7 - mmc dev X (where X is the EXTERNAL SD)
8 - mmc write 0x80000000 0x80000 0x80000
9 - mmc dev Y (where Y is the INTERNAL MMC)
10 - mmc read 0x80000000 0x100000 0x80000
11 - mmc dev X (where X is the EXTERNAL SD)
12 - mmc write 0x80000000 0x100000 0x80000
... (etc second parameter changes to 0x180000, 0x200000, 0x280000 ... until it complains there is nothing to read)
After it complains, for the last one you have to adjust the read size - if it says it could only read 0x60000 blocks, change the third value to 0x60000.
For a 4GB internal MMC, it will typically stop at  0x700000 + 0x6000.

I really advise to ALWAYS run the "mmcinfo" command before issuing any "mmc write" command to ensure the external SD is selected. If you do any mistake, you will erase the device flash and no recovery will be easily possible (even less if memory is BGA).

Then, you have a full copy of the MMC on your SD. To store that into a file using Linux, run "dd if=/dev/yourSDcard of=Camera.img bs=512 count=[last address + size, converted to DEC, for example 7733248 in the previous example]".
Note that there are a FAT and EXT3 partition on the device - if you use Windows (or OSX) to backup the SD, the automount will create a System Volume Information (or a .DS_Store file) on the card, so it wont be an exact copy, which is why I advise to use Linux (or use the read-only switch in your SD card adapter).

If you do not understand the previous commands, you will most likely brick your device - so please refrain yourself .

In addition, I think I found how to get root access to the device, however I would need a backup from someone to confirm that first.

[optotester]

Hello all,

As UT260B seems to share the same platform as C200, I developed an unlocking script that provides root access here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/infiray-c210-thermal-camera-review/msg4368193/#msg4368193

It might work or not as-is on the UTI260B - I tried to make it very flexible. If it does not, I will need at least one MMC backup taken from the method exposed previously. I do not have the device myself I cannot take that initial backup, but if I get one, I will be easily able to adapt the script if needed. Once we start collecting backups, it should be easy to activate UVC, restore calibration, or unbrick not booting devices.

Kr

[All Seeing Eye]

If it could adjust the focal length,That's better

[keenox]

I also opened the UTi260B. Tip: use a small suction cap (like the ones used to remove phone screens) to remove the screen shield in order to avoid scratches instead of using tweezers. Also, don't pull hard on the face because there is a small ribbon cable that connects the buttons to the main PCB. I almost ripped mine.
I also attached a script that will enable the USB console. (thanks optotester for the initial script)
Just unzip to the SD card root, press right for 3 seconds, hold and press left.
You will see a new COM in the device manager. Connect using putty (or your preferred terminal client) with baud rate 115200.

Use ftpadmin/ftpadmin (no write rigths, safer to just look around) or root/uti160e (careful! you can mess stuff up if you don't know what you're doing.

Full dump of the 1.2.6 firmware: https://mega.nz/file/2EZXAKJC#L_ROicWxl96tmm10NZP_TM9PELJHTVqmL0C8l_ZAYGQ

[Algoma]

Picked up one of these from the Nov11 sales, so far it has been excellent the first few times I've used it. Only trouble is that it doesn't charge on a USB-C charger. I've had to use the included USB-C to USB-A cable to charge it at fixed 5V

This one has a Firmware v1.2.10

After a full charge, I did hit a bug with all temperatures reading 0'C and center spot -275'C. All other general operations seemed normal. A reboot didn't fix. Then did factory reset from the menus with no change. Restarted and it froze up at EN/CN language selection on boot. Rebooted yet again and it now seems to have returned to normal operation.

[Algoma]

well, it broke.. First full recharge and it showed all measurements at 0.00'C and the center point read -275'C.  Performed a full factory reset and it came back, but all readings are now 10-15'C off.

@optotester posted a link to access the calibration mode.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/infiray-c210-thermal-camera-review/msg4336675/#msg4336675

Looks like the High Gain calibration was reset, and the NTC value is showing 0.0'C.

Bit of trial and error to recalibrate it properly I've sucessfully worked out a general procedure to restore its operation to within expected values.
Cal Reset to wipe out current Gain calibration values.
RMVC_RESET seems to reset the thermal sensor and appears to also run a RMVC_CAL
RMVC_CAL needs to up close to a blackbody source with a stable thermal gradient within its field of view. I used a heavy black coated frypan warmed to about 25'C and allowed to thermally settle to an even color when viewed through the camera. This function evens out variations and hotspots in the sensor's image and sets the baseline for the other calibrations at 10'C and 120'C
Generally point and sample the desired temperature Cal points using the center cross. I used Ice to cool a bowl of water as my 10'C temperature, and a frypan heated to 120'C as my baseline targets. Any simple IR thermometer should give some target references to work with. An open fridge or freezer is another easy source to find a desired 10'C point to sample.

New Recal commits the values to the sensor and if close, temperatures should be closer to actual. Cal Save and Switch Gain switches to Low Gain calibration. These seemed correct and were left alone as they require much higher temperature sample points. Power Cycle to verify the results.

Without a proper calibration source, a few resets of calbration I was able to chart out the responses each time referenced to generally stable values: melting Ice (0'C), Room Temperature (21'C), Body Temperature (36.8'C) and Boiling water(100'C).. With a bit charting the values and responses I was able to tune the 10'C and 120'C values to acheive proper calibration well within original specs. In my case 23 and 96 were the results that gave proper reponse. I think image contrast and accuracy actually improved, it shows body temperature exactly on value at 36.8'C.

Now that NTC value is still showing 0.0'C so I think the internal temperature compensation broke with the first recharge, so the calibration will only be true for the room temperature I calibrated it at, with the tool properly warmed to an operating state.

Any ideas where that NTC might be located in there? .. I'm' thinking its within the IR camera module, or on shutter and not easily replaceable.

[teddychn]

Looks like it has some quality concern. Remember I had seen someone having boot problem very soon.

My UTi260A is just on the way. Now I start to worry about the quality of it...

[Algoma]

Likely could have been the reason for the deep sale price.. factory scratch and dent models, refurbished rejects. Functional but flawed.

[bsgd]

Hi all!

So I just got for Christmas a UNIT 260B camera. This is my first thermal camera so Im not sure what to expect, and thats why I ask for advice here.
My camera shows a 'pattern' when I aim at objects or surfaces that should be at the same temperature all around. The pattern is always the same as below and does not improve after leaving the camera on for hours and after many FFC events.

Is this expected? The temperature range is small I know, around 2C, but I expected the screen to look all the same color, with no fixed pattern like this. Maybe Im expecting too much from such a low end device? Or is this a problem?

I just wanna make sure I did not get a defective unit.

[katzenhai2]

[...]
Is this expected? The temperature range is small I know, around 2C, but I expected the screen to look all the same color, [...]

With such a small temperature range that's not unlikely. I have a Hikmicro thermal camera and here you can see the lens that comes into view after warming up with a small temp range.

I can't say whether this is more pronounced with the Uni-T devices. With my camera, however, the effect only occurs after 30 minutes when all systems have reached their working temperature.
For me the difference is 1°C and is within the tolerance range. With your camera that's a little more at over 2.5°C. Please take a thermal photo of objects to see how this affects your temperature measurements.

[bsgd]

Thanks for the reply.

I have taken two more pictures of an obect that I just heated by holding it for a few seconds and then laid it on a table that is not used here so its surface should be ate the same temperature on every point. As you can see, that ghost image can still be seen. I still dont know it this is expected. Even with a difference of almost 10C I can still see that ghost image on screen, from the picture I took of my own hand.

[Algoma]

While it is possible to backup and recalibrate the sensor to even out the color, as calibration mode is built in. Its really not worth the potential to cause even greater issues. Its a very specific process, and very hard to get right without actual calibration reference equipment at hand.

Does the effect show differently within the low gain range?

Being close to a surface I found that the Thermal Lens window actually emits significant internal heat when pressed close against a surface.. Press it into a soft cloth then pull back the camera, and you'll see a significant hot spot left in the cloth that touched the sensor window.

[aydd]

my camera unit 260b v1.1.6 

how can i download new software


1---Always hear 2 times click sound when device is working. Is this sound normal? on the screen. lens movement sound When this sound comes, the screen freezes.
2---- Seeing vertical noise lines in the thermal camera. Is this screen fault?
or to be able to see it like this from time to time..

[markb1980]

my camera unit 260b v1.1.6 ... how can i download new software

Sorry no idea - i have no UNI-T camera.

1---Always hear 2 times click sound when device is working. Is this sound normal? on the screen. lens movement sound When this sound comes, the screen freezes.

That is normal - the shutter closes for the NUC (non uniformity correction). I would suggest to read a beginners book or watch some videos to learn the basics!

2---- Seeing vertical noise lines in the thermal camera. Is this screen fault?

Show us an image please - I am not sure what exact do you mean...

[aydd]

I saw vertical screen pictures interference on the screen 2 times. It's not a permanent situation. it may be normal to see this on a comprehensive thermal camera for the first time Unknown.. no photo sorry. I'll take it again

[aydd]

my camera unit 260b v1.1.6 ... how can i download new software

Sorry no idea - i have no UNI-T camera.

1---Always hear 2 times click sound when device is working. Is this sound normal? on the screen. lens movement sound When this sound comes, the screen freezes.

That is normal - the shutter closes for the NUC (non uniformity correction). I would suggest to read a beginners book or watch some videos to learn the basics!

2---- Seeing vertical noise lines in the thermal camera. Is this screen fault?

Show us an image please - I am not sure what exact do you mean...

if the noise is visible in the picture it is normal. If not, is the screen faulty? I've only seen it 3 times