A router table is very useful for making cutouts in an enclosure. A 1/8" carbide endmill will cut any plastic, sheet metal, or FR-4. But some larger tungsten carbide burrs will do the coarser work, faster, and save some time and wear and tear. Proxxon tools are much lower in noise and runout than a Dremel, but they are a bit spendy. I'm not sure if they have any more torque, but they have a lower max rpm. 15 to 20K, depending on the model, vs 35k for typical Dremel. I have a couple of Dremel tools, too, and they work great for what I need in a hand-held tool. The proxxon are more handy/universal when it comes to mounts. They have a steel collar of the same diameter on all their rotary tool models, and you can buy tool holders for them (or easily make your own) if you want to build a router table. (The mini router tables for sale are pretty limited). The Dremels are more of a hack together a mount by eyeball and strap it in with hose clamps. I don't know they have a universal shape for a standard mount, yet, but I haven't been in that market for a decade.
I use a Proxxon in a router table fairly frequently. I have worn out the motor on one of them. This setup is still good enough I haven't upgraded to a full size router table, yet. I just bought another Proxxon. Just made some HDPE bushings, this afternoon, to fit a 1000 foot reel of wrap wire to my dispenser. My supplier changed spools on me.
I adapted a $30.00 Harbor Freight drill press table into a Proxxon router table. It is a fairly easy project if you have a drill press and a power saw. It took mainly some scraps of plywood and some assorted hardware, plus a 2x4 to make the legs. With this baby router table, I can make a surprising array of complex plastic and wood parts to fairly tight tolerances. Check out Matthias Wandel's web page and look at his router table build. It is very easy. My table is roughly based on this, minus the wood-gear lift system and with the addition of a tilt mechanism which I added mainly for V-scoring FR-4.