Author Topic: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread  (Read 135220 times)

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Offline Skimask

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #75 on: January 07, 2014, 08:06:05 am »
Purchased from TEquipment.net (USA) on Dec 23rd.
E4 1.1
6390101xx
Calibration date Dec 12 '13
1.19.8

Just sent in for my freebie as noted above.  Can't decide between the Borescope or the Laser Distance Meter...
I didn't take it apart.
I turned it on.

The only stupid question is, well, most of them...

Save a fuse...Blow an electrician.
 

Offline wilheldp

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #76 on: January 07, 2014, 12:40:39 pm »
You might want to hold off for a second.  I just put in an email to FLIR to see if they will allow me to get just the extra battery and 12V charging cable as a promotional reward at the $9xx level.  Unlike Mike, I'm not too keen on the soft case and I don't really need the online training.
 

Offline Skimask

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #77 on: January 07, 2014, 01:33:59 pm »
Extra battery / 12v charging cable...meh...
I've got a box with a couple of good sized LiPo's in it, a 5v regulator, and 4 USB ports for charging...whatever...
But, I don't have a borescope :)
I didn't take it apart.
I turned it on.

The only stupid question is, well, most of them...

Save a fuse...Blow an electrician.
 

Offline Jolly

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #78 on: January 11, 2014, 02:57:34 pm »
A simple lens tool, just made out of hot glue and some kind of "bit-tool-holder". It seems to be quite stable.
Recording of E4 videos using a Raspberry PI: http://www.eversberg.eu/download/flir_vcr_v0.1.zip
 

Offline menthurae

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #79 on: January 15, 2014, 11:14:45 pm »
Just want to add my info... Purchased from an Australian supplier on January 14th 2014.  :-+

Serial Number   Calibration Date   Firmware

63910XXX         13 Dec                  1.19.8 E4 V1.1
 

Offline tmiller

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #80 on: January 21, 2014, 05:57:30 am »
Hello all,

Is there anyone on this list that lives in the US that would be willing to call me and help me through the resolution upgrade process? I have an E4 with 1.19.8 FW and Win XP on a laptop. I just need some hand holding to get this to work.

Thanks very much for the BW.

Tom

 

Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #81 on: January 23, 2014, 10:41:12 pm »
External Charger disassembly & detail


I have disassembled my FLIR E4 external charger to establish the quality of the design.

The rubber coated case is held together with a single screw under the ID label at the bottom of the charger. The base is a combination of metal and rubber. Construction is good and looks like it will last. The soldering is not the best I have seen and the excess flux has not been removed from the manually soldered micro USB connector. The unit is made in Malaysia.

I can advise that it is a standard 3 contact (NTC) Li-Ion charger design as will be seen below:

The main components contained within the charger are as follows (along with the common ID where known)

1. 1L4001  =  Linear LTC4001 Battery management IC. 2A charger with Timer & NTC sense input.
2. MNAB ZC5 = T.I. LMC555 - Yes the venerable 555 (CMOS version).
3. UL46 = USBLC6-4 TVS diode array for USB2.
4. PZ = Not known but possibly BZB84-B33 Zener diodes
5. G3A = Diode

The data sheet for the charge manager (LTC4001) is attached. This details all that is needed to build your own charger, or to understand the FLIR design. The battery contains only an NTC thermistor of value 10K Ohms. No other 'management' is contained in the battery pack. It will have a protection circuit for the cell though.

The input connector for power is the same awful micro USB type as on the Ex, but at least it does not need to be unplugged often. A micro USB car charger may be used to produce a car charging pod for those on the move. The LTC4001 is tolerant of current limited power supplies.

For those wondering, the 555 timer just provides the low frequency drive to make the blue LEDs flash during charging.

Note the charging contacts. They look like they belong on a Canon Li-Ion battery charger. It may be possible to convert such a charger with relative ease but it may need its protection timer adjusted to take account of the Ex battery capacity.

The metal moulding in the bottom of the charger is a heat dissipator plate that is sinking heat from the LTC4001 via the PCB ground-plane. Not the most efficient design but it does not get very warm so appears adequate.
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Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #82 on: January 27, 2014, 12:15:17 am »
FLIR guide to R&D Thermography - A good read for those new to the topic.

It is worth downloading this guide from FLIR. Its a good read.

http://www.flir.com/uploadedFiles/Thermography/MMC/Brochures/T559243/T559243_APAC.pdf
« Last Edit: January 27, 2014, 12:17:01 am by Aurora »
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Offline Petrolero

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #83 on: January 28, 2014, 04:28:00 am »
Flir E4 received January 27, 2014 from Grainger in Denver (3-days delivery).

Model E4 1.1
S/N:  639117xx
Calibration Date:  January 7, 2014
Firmware Version:  1.19.8

Resolution mod successful

« Last Edit: January 28, 2014, 05:18:16 am by Petrolero »
 

Offline zcmayhem

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #84 on: January 31, 2014, 06:54:59 am »
Just received my Flir E4.  I have been waiting for 3 weeks for this item.  The good news is that has a
Calibration date of January 16, 2014
Serial No. 639123xx
Firmware 1.19.8
Resolution mod worked great!!
 

Offline Skimask

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #85 on: February 05, 2014, 04:23:45 am »
Extra battery / 12v charging cable...meh...
I've got a box with a couple of good sized LiPo's in it, a 5v regulator, and 4 USB ports for charging...whatever...
But, I don't have a borescope :)
Filled out and sent in the paperwork for the freebie inspection camera (ExTech BR80) on Jan 8, 2014.
Received it this morning.  Less than a month turnaround time.  Not too shabby for a "freebie".
I didn't take it apart.
I turned it on.

The only stupid question is, well, most of them...

Save a fuse...Blow an electrician.
 

Offline scientist

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #86 on: February 05, 2014, 04:41:41 am »
External Charger disassembly & detail


I have disassembled my FLIR E4 external charger to establish the quality of the design.

The rubber coated case is held together with a single screw under the ID label at the bottom of the charger. The base is a combination of metal and rubber. Construction is good and looks like it will last. The soldering is not the best I have seen and the excess flux has not been removed from the manually soldered micro USB connector. The unit is made in Malaysia.

I can advise that it is a standard 3 contact (NTC) Li-Ion charger design as will be seen below:

The main components contained within the charger are as follows (along with the common ID where known)

1. 1L4001  =  Linear LTC4001 Battery management IC. 2A charger with Timer & NTC sense input.
2. MNAB ZC5 = T.I. LMC555 - Yes the venerable 555 (CMOS version).
3. UL46 = USBLC6-4 TVS diode array for USB2.
4. PZ = Not known but possibly BZB84-B33 Zener diodes
5. G3A = Diode

The data sheet for the charge manager (LTC4001) is attached. This details all that is needed to build your own charger, or to understand the FLIR design. The battery contains only an NTC thermistor of value 10K Ohms. No other 'management' is contained in the battery pack. It will have a protection circuit for the cell though.

The input connector for power is the same awful micro USB type as on the Ex, but at least it does not need to be unplugged often. A micro USB car charger may be used to produce a car charging pod for those on the move. The LTC4001 is tolerant of current limited power supplies.

For those wondering, the 555 timer just provides the low frequency drive to make the blue LEDs flash during charging.

Note the charging contacts. They look like they belong on a Canon Li-Ion battery charger. It may be possible to convert such a charger with relative ease but it may need its protection timer adjusted to take account of the Ex battery capacity.

The metal moulding in the bottom of the charger is a heat dissipator plate that is sinking heat from the LTC4001 via the PCB ground-plane. Not the most efficient design but it does not get very warm so appears adequate.

Only 2 layers, as expected. Chinese clones in 3...2...1...
 

Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #87 on: February 05, 2014, 06:47:14 pm »
FLIR 'Upgrade' countermeasure released today

FLIR have released a new firmware today (5 Feb 2014). The version is 1.21.0 and it is available for download from their web site.

'Taucher' has investigated the new release and has immediately noted a countermeasure against the standard upgrade path for the Ex series. See here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg382081/#msg382081

The CRC algorithm has been changed so changing the related file will render it useless unless the CRC can be correctly calculated. Without knowing the new CRC algorithm this cannot be done.

If you already own an Ex series camera do not install FW 1.21.0 ..... you will return your E4 to standard spec and will not be able to upgrade it.

More countermeasures may be awaiting discovery in FW 1.21.0 but this change is enough to prove that FLIR intend to halt the camera ugrade path.
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Offline Sparky

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #88 on: February 06, 2014, 11:23:31 pm »
Lens materials and Close-up lenses
I recommend that a ZnSe  Bi-convex lens is purchased for the purpose. These lenses are available cheaply from China and are made for the CO2 laser cutter market....

I purchased my lenses from here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZnSe-GaAs-Focal-Lens-for-10-6um-Co2-Laser-Engraver-Cutting-Machine-12-25mm-1-4-/321078811086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4ac1c9d9ce

UPDATE: Georges80 has produced the STL files for 3D printing a lens holder to the E4.

@Aurora: Thanks for this excellent summary of IR lens materials, and the different means to achieve magnification and focus with the E4.  This is a really great reference!

I notice you recommend a bi-convex lens, but the eBay seller you link to provides plano-convex lens.  Can you describe why bi-convex would be better?  Is it more difficult to buy bi-convex than plano-convex lens?

I bought a 50mm FL lens from the eBay seller above, and had Georges80 lens holder printed (very awesome; thanks George!).  The fit of lens to holder and insertion in the E4 is perfect!

I was initially concerned that I had made a mistake and ordered the wrong (plano-convex) lens, but found that it works fine when installed in the holder (convex side out; flat side towards sensor). 

In use, I find maintaining focus is difficult --- depth of field appears very narrow resulting in a blurry image.  I was hoping to get a bit better performance like georges80 shows here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg332281/#msg332281

I wonder if I should adjust the E4 settings "Alignment distance" (currently > 3) or "Focus distance fine-tuning" (currently = 3) when using the additional lens for close-up PCB inspection??

What is an appropriate way to secure the lens to the lens holder (mine is made of ABS plastic)?  I wonder if the fitting could be made non-permanent, so the lens could be swapped with other focal length lenses.  Or is it better to just buy several lens holders, and fit permanently a lens in each?

>> Thanks for all the awesome information you have shared about IR thermal imaging!!!
 

Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #89 on: February 07, 2014, 12:11:24 am »
Close-up lens - Bi-Convex Vs Plano-Convex

@Sparky,

I am no expert in optics but can offer some comment.

I originally discovered the use of close-up lenses on desktop presenters (document cameras). These units use a standard CCD camera core and a No.2 bi-convex close-up lens with a focal distance of around 40cm. The lens does not introduce significant distortion.

I originally purchased 100mm Focal Length ZnSe Bi-Convex lenses for experimentation with my industrial FLIR PM695 that has a 0.5m minimum focus distance and a 24 Degree FOV lens. The 100mm ZnSe lens in combination with the 24 Degree FOV worked very well indeed.

Mike did some tests and found that the optimum ZnSe lens for the E4's wider 45 degree FOV lens was the 50mm Focal Length type. That makes sense as it is twice the FOV so needs half the FL for the same close-up FOV as my PM695 when fitted with a 100mm close-up lens.  :) The down side is that with the E4 fitted with a 50mm FL lens you need to be much closer to the target than when I use the PM695.

With regard to the differences between the Bi-Convex and the Plano-convex is minor in this case. My professional Inframetrics Close-up lens has the concave side facing the target and convex side facing the cameras sensor. I used the 50mm FL plano-convex lens the same way on my PM695 in order to test its performance and it performed well. HOWEVER it was discovered that the E4's lens behaved differently and the Convex side of the close-up lens needs to face the target to get the best image across the FOV. Both the Bi-Convex and Plano-Convex lenses will work as a close-up lens. I have attached the light path plots for plano-convex and bi-convex lenses.

My lens adapters are also ABS and there are two ways that the ZnSe lens may be held in place. Some users secure it with a thin bead on NON ACIDIC adhesive. Acid cure glues are a no-no with ZnSe ! Others have used a soldering iron to slightly melt the edges of the lens holder to create 'claws' like those used to retain gems in jewellery.

Depth of field will be a function of the interaction of the close-up lens and the E4's built in fixed focus lens. I regret that I know of no way to improve the DOF. I use the E4 on a tripod so the DOF is not such an issue for me.

I recommend having several lens adapters made and fixing the lens in place. I have considered making a lens adapter that takes my 19mm and 20mm photographic lens holders. These could then be changed out in the same way as on a normal camera lens.  I have not bothered to date though.

Some usefull comment on Plano Convex Vs Bi-Convex may be found here:

http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=318310

A quote from the thread:

"If your 'telescope' is being used for image relay of small, nearby objects about a focal distance away from the lenses:

Plano-convex is fine, but the flat surfaces should now be facing outward. If the magnification of this image relay system is close to 1:1, then the use of biconvex lenses will eliminate most abberation. If the magnification is far from 1:1, then biconvex lenses will make things worse.

In any case, orientation and use of plano-convex vs. biconvex lenses won't matter terribly much. You will still form a fine image so long as the lenses are the correct distance apart. These details only affect small distortions in the image. "


Note my comments on how the plano-convex does not work well with the convex side facing the camera lens. It should work OK but there is something about the E4 lens specification (FOV ?) that messes things up. (You get defocussing around the image periphery)
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 11:27:25 am by Aurora »
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Offline iDevice

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #90 on: February 07, 2014, 09:25:37 pm »
My lens adapters are also ABS and there are two ways that the ZnSe lens may be held in place. Some users secure it with a thin bead on NON ACIDIC adhesive. Acid cure glues are a no-no with ZnSe ! Others have used a soldering iron to slightly melt the edges of the lens holder to create 'claws' like those used to retain gems in jewellery.
With the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.
The Chinese CO2 laser cutter lenses you can get from ebay just clip in nicely and firmly, so no risk of glue damage.
 

Offline Sparky

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #91 on: February 08, 2014, 01:45:29 am »
My lens adapters are also ABS and there are two ways that the ZnSe lens may be held in place. Some users secure it with a thin bead on NON ACIDIC adhesive. Acid cure glues are a no-no with ZnSe ! Others have used a soldering iron to slightly melt the edges of the lens holder to create 'claws' like those used to retain gems in jewellery.
With the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.
The Chinese CO2 laser cutter lenses you can get from ebay just clip in nicely and firmly, so no risk of glue damage.

Hmmm...this is not the case for me.  I used georges80 design, with 20mm diameter lens (from the Chinese eBay seller), and the lens is a loose fit --- no clip in; the lens will drop straight out. 

What design lens holder and diameter lens did you use?
 

Offline georges80

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #92 on: February 08, 2014, 04:18:37 am »
3d printers aren't "precision" instruments :)

So, you will get different results with different printers (and/or phase of the moon). Remember that the lens holder I designed was to specifically handle the lens I had on hand (via ebay) AND to be printed with the makerbot at work. I tweaked things to make it fit nicely - but no guarantee that all prints from my files will create a 'perfect' fit...

My main goal was a good friction fit in the E4 and to play it safe with the lens opening so that worse case a touch with a soldering iron would fix the lens in place. Since I printed with PLA it is easy to melt the plastic with a soldering iron that is only at 70 - 80C.

cheers,
george.
 

Offline Sparky

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #93 on: February 08, 2014, 04:59:59 am »
3d printers aren't "precision" instruments :)

So, you will get different results with different printers (and/or phase of the moon). Remember that the lens holder I designed was to specifically handle the lens I had on hand (via ebay) AND to be printed with the makerbot at work. I tweaked things to make it fit nicely - but no guarantee that all prints from my files will create a 'perfect' fit...

My main goal was a good friction fit in the E4 and to play it safe with the lens opening so that worse case a touch with a soldering iron would fix the lens in place. Since I printed with PLA it is easy to melt the plastic with a soldering iron that is only at 70 - 80C.

cheers,
george.

Thanks, George!  Your lens holder was my first-ever 3D printed part! :D  It was done at a local shop and I didn't know what to expect, but the quality was very good and I was totally satisfied with it.  The friction fit with the E4 is perfect!  It is snug and gives a confident feeling that it is not going to fall out. 

I'm thinking how I might be swap in lenses and so I might make some tweaks to the design and see how it goes for my application.  If I do change anything, I'll post the updated files and pictures here :)

Thanks for your comments!

Cheers,
Sparky
 

Offline Sparky

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #94 on: February 08, 2014, 05:28:12 am »
Close-up lens - Bi-Convex Vs Plano-Convex
@Sparky,
I am no expert in optics but can offer some comment....

@Aurora: Thank you so much for the thoughtful reply to my questions!  You went into some detail and I appreciate it.  It's good to know I figured out the "correct" way to orient the close-up lens (convex facing the target)  :)

I wonder if cyanoacrylate (aka "superglue") is a non-acidic adhesive?  Is it safe to use on ZnSe lenses?  Even if so, it would be a rather permanent solution, so I'm still considering some kind of lens adapter, that is perhaps threaded on the outside and can screw into the ABS plastic lens holder which fits to the E4.

I wonder where I would get a 20mm lens adapter like you show in the picture "Close-up lenses.JPG" in this post?  It looks like they have a threaded section on the outside of the adapter.  I'm tempted to try some changes to Georges already excellent design to accommodate a small lens adapter as you've shown.  I'd get the ABS plastic tapped with the appropriate thread.

Do I need to be concerned much with the distance the close-up lens is placed from the E4 optics?  I presume closer is better to allow more IR to hit the detector (greater solid angle seen by the detector for closer lens placement).

re: Depth-of-Field: I know in photography the DOF can be changed by the lens aperture; smaller apertures yield greater DOF.  But, even if a way to reduce the aperture was conceived, I've no idea how it could affect this IR camera --- could reduce SNR, introduce vignetting, and presumably "exposure time" and/or sensor sensitivity would have to change to alleviate the reduced aperture.....  Seems it could be more trouble than is worth --- a tripod + georges80 already excellent E4 tripod adapters might be the way to go!!

Please let me know where I could search for the 20mm lens adapters --- I think that is my next step :)

Cheers!
Sparky
 

Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #95 on: February 08, 2014, 11:02:43 am »
@Sparky,

It is a pleasure to help.

With regard to lens holders, when I first started looking at CO2 cutter lenses I went for a 19mm diameter lens as I had already investigated the availability of photographic lens/filter holders. I had found that 19mm FILTER holders were used on cameras in the 1960s (?) These early filter holders either screwed into the cameras fine threaded filter mount or were a push fit onto the front of the lens.

The 19mm fliter holders were perfect for my application, but they are not that common these days. All of mine came from e*ay and cost between $3 and $7, which I though was reasonable considering the time it would take to make such a holder. You have to search for "filter holder" and not lens holder. Mine were made by BDB. When I could not find any more 19mm holders I started looking for 20mm ones and found some. I then ordered 20mm lenses from China instead of the 19mm ones I had been ordering. The 'output' thread diameter varies with these holders depending upon the camera that they were designed to mount. A thread diameter of 24.5mm is common and very close to a 'C' mount, with the same thread pitch used. I also found some 'push fit' versions that just clip onto the outside of a specified diameter of lens. These would be a better option for you as you could print an adapter with the required raised 'lip' for the lens holder to push on to and you avoid the hassle of having a fine, fragile thread cut into the adapter.

With regard to how close the auxilliary lens is positioned to the primary in the camera. It is best to fit the lens as close to the primary as possible. The E4 has a very wide field of view and Georges80 designed the adapter to position the auxilliary lens close enough to the primary without interfering with the dust shutter. It may be possible to move the lens closer to the promary but whether that will improve performance, I cannot say. Experimentation with a carboard ring forming a lens mount would be a simple test of such an idea.

On the matter of DOF....this is where I show my lack of knowledge. I know that a small aperture, fixed focus lens, as fitted to the E4, provides excellent depth of field from 0.5m to infinity. I also know that the close-up lens has a specified focal length which in our application will be the point of focus for the 'target' being observed. I do not know why the DOF is so small when using the auxilliary lens, but presume that it is similar to when using a microscope... where DOF is often very small.

Further thought on DOF...... We are effectively fitting a new lens structure informt of one optimised to large DOF. Out auxilliary lens is DESIGNED to provide sharp pocus at a specific distance from the lens. In our usage as a close-up lens we are taking the image at a close distance and bending the 'light' through the lens to bring it onto the primary lens axis so that it "appears" to teh promary lens as 'light' coming from a distance awat (parallel beams ?) The auxilliary lens will only produce a focussed image at the specified FL and as these lenses were designed to be used to focus a laser beam, the point of focus will have a small DOF ? Sounds logcal to me but whetehr true is another matter  ;) We are effectively using these lenses in reverse to their original application which was to take parallel light beams and converge them onto a very small area on a target. I will do some tests with my Inframetrics inductrial close-up lens as that is designed for the task. It is worthy of note that the Inframetrics lens is a Meniscus type and not Plano Convex. The concave side faces the target and the convex side faces the primary lens. That lens has a 6 inch FL. and was designed to be placed on the front of a X3 telescope lens that is presently on its way to me from the USA.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2014, 11:36:52 am by Aurora »
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Offline Sparky

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #96 on: February 08, 2014, 08:45:35 pm »
@Aurora: Thanks again for the follow-up and lots of info about lens/filter holders. 

I have done a little eBay searching using the information from you, and there seems limited 20mm diameter lens/filter holders available these days.  I did fine one eBay seller, here, who seems to have the 'push fit' version that you mentioned.  They are sold 'used' though --- just whatever stock happens to be available.  It is cheap and might work well for me --- presumably I could request a few that are the same type.  But, might be hard to come by these parts again in the future...

I also had a look for lens mounts from industry optical companies, and managed to turn up a few options:
Edmund Optics, thin lens C mount (pic attached)
Also, ThorLabs (two PDF attached); one version has threaded outside with two retaining rings and other has built-in "lens shelf" with one retaining ring, but not threaded on the outside...which makes it a little difficult to use for my application.  Hmm...why the externally threaded one doesn't have built-in lens shelf?

The ThorLabs holders are < $20 USD, which is cheaper for me than 3D printing georges80 lens holder ($20 "set up" + $16 "print").

But, the external threading on these parts is rather fine and may not be ideal for the ABS.  However, could have a "not so fine" thread cut into the ThorLabs holder that has no external thread.  It might work well. 

What do you think of these options?
 

Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #97 on: February 08, 2014, 08:55:43 pm »
$36 for the 3D print  :o  That is VERY expensive. My printer in the UK is LuneValley3D.

He creates my lens holders in excellent black ABS plastic for GBP4 ($6) each with no 'set up' cost. Just postage to add. The items are light so not expensive to post. Payment is by Paypal.

I have provided his details in this thread. Email him and I feel sure he will send to the USA.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/flir-e4-the-useful-information-thread/msg339308/#msg339308

Also, consider how many auxiliary lenses you will have. Remember, these lenses are for close-up work only so you will likely have FL's of 50mm, 75mm and 100mm as those are three easily available CO2 lenses. FL's greater than 100mm are rare to find on e*ay. You cannot make a telephoto lens with a single lens element. So you will basically need only 3 lens adapters which would cost you approx US$18 + postage from the UK.

That is the route that I would take take.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2014, 09:05:26 pm by Aurora »
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Offline FraserTopic starter

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #98 on: February 08, 2014, 09:13:07 pm »
Another Tripod adapter for the Ex series

Another tripod adapter has been designed for 3D printing. This differs in design to that of Georges80 in that it surrounds the handle completely. Details of the STL file and required hardware is provided via the included link. Credit to 'ee.jcesar' for the design.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg383997/#msg383997
« Last Edit: February 08, 2014, 09:20:09 pm by Aurora »
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Offline Scutarius

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Re: FLIR E4 - The useful information thread
« Reply #99 on: February 08, 2014, 11:32:10 pm »
I am not an expert designing parts, it has been designed in Autodesk Fusion 360, used it under your own risk, Don't forget to glue the 1/4 to 3/8 Screw Adapter!

« Last Edit: February 08, 2014, 11:35:33 pm by ee.jcesar »
 


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