AN8008 US $19, 9999count, 1uV, 0.01uA, 0.01Ohm, 1pF resolution meter

[MacMeter]

NEW MODEL 8009 RELEASED JUST NOW

New tread here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/latest-aneng-9999-dmm-invented!-an8009-now!/

Link fails

[BroMarduk]

Link fails

Try copying then pasting the entire link into the browser.   When you see the link color change part way through, it's almost a sure sign that you will need to paste the link in manually....

[MacMeter]

Link fails

Try copying then pasting the entire link into the browser.   When you see the link color change part way through, it's almost a sure sign that you will need to paste the link in manually....

First thing I did. Found it manually.

[IanB]

Here's the link to the other thread to save people searching:

Latest 9999 counts dmm released! AN8009 for $24 now!

[exe]

Guys, I have a problem never seen reported before. I cannot disable auto powerdown. Even if I do as manual says (hold select button when switching it on) it beeps 5 times and auto power downs after 15 minutes. This is really annoying... Any ideas how could I fix this? Or may be I'm doing it wrong as both AN8008 and ZT102 behave the same way for me.

[metrologist]

I did not know you could disable it. Thanks!

[stroma]

I added RANGE and REL buttons to my AN8002. Let see if button modification is possible with the AN8008.

What kind of switches have used? Isn't the rubber buttons to soft for normal push buttons?

I used these switches
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/evp-ayf1ba/panasonic

I used 1mm thick PCB for the button separator. I'll take more pictures when I modify my second unit and the AN8008.

This is probably the best buttons modification I've seen.
Could you share more detailed description for this modification?
How the PCB separator is attached?
How the button rubber is cut - all the way in two separate pieces or partially?

[001]

I check "kazus" forum
And I`m anxious now
Few users sad what stock linearity of readings is not linear

i.e. AN800# use some firmware trick  to avoid last count jitter and to indicate "beautiful" zero  at shorted leads and low  (i.e. noisy?) levels  

What about more tricks?

[floobydust]

I added RANGE and REL buttons to my AN8002. Let see if button modification is possible with the AN8008.

What kind of switches have used? Isn't the rubber buttons to soft for normal push buttons?

I used these switches
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/evp-ayf1ba/panasonic

I used 1mm thick PCB for the button separator. I'll take more pictures when I modify my second unit and the AN8008.

This is probably the best buttons modification I've seen.
Could you share more detailed description for this modification?
How the PCB separator is attached?
How the button rubber is cut - all the way in two separate pieces or partially?

I found the AN8008 does not have the IC pin bonded out for the extra switches. So this mod I believe did not work out.

[Rossix]

Hi, I recently bought the AN8008 tester at Banggood, I've made some changes to the tester, as recommended at
https://www.jackenhack.com/aneng-an8008-modify-for-better-accuracy-faster-readings/ .
I did some measurement tests on low currents: in DC current there are no problems, the measurements are correct, both on mA DC and on uA DC, then I tried to measure in AC current at 50Hz network and 230VAC, using a resistor in series with the tester, in the uA AC range there are no problems, but in the mA AC range the measurements start from 7 - 8 mA AC with errors even 50%, then as I increase the current, it becomes more and more precise.
When I try to measure currents of 1, 2 or 3mA AC, the tester remains on 0 mA AC.
I ask if you have also found the same defect of the tester and if you have a solution about it. I have other multimeters and the problem with these obviously does not show up but they work properly, thanks for the help.

[ciccio]

I did not know you could disable it. Thanks!

Mine beeps 5 times (and this is annoyng) but does not power off... but mine has a different silkscreen and mybe different firmware (see my previous post).

[stj]

just differnt settings in the eeprom.

[Mr. Scram]

Does anyone know whether this thing uses fast or slow blow fuses?

[stj]

i know they are not fast enough! 

you need to adapt it to 20mm FF rated fuses.

[Crumble]

I opened a fuse previously, and there are just copper wires in it and no sand whatsoever. I guess these are unlikely to have been checked for breaking speed. You might be able to use these, they claim to be quick blow, but I wouldn't hold my breath:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/290754775264

https://www.ebay.com/itm/300757393643

[Fungus]

Even if they're quick blow they're not going to save you from anything.

a) Stick to low voltage work with this meter
b) Think twice before selecting a range with a fuse in it (unfortunately these meters don't require you to move the cable to a different connector to get a fused range).

[Crumble]

Very true, it is unlikely to help when using mains, but it might just save you a cascading failure in the DUT when probing around, so I would recommend trying to buy a new set of fuses rather than bridging them. That is why I gave the links. I goofed when measuring a NiCd battery for a cordless drill, these are known to be capable of some serious currents.

[Fungus]

Very true, it is unlikely to help when using mains, but it might just save you a cascading failure in the DUT when probing around, so I would recommend trying to buy a new set of fuses rather than bridging them.

One of the real weak points of these meters (IMHO) is that the fuses are a non-standard size and it's almost impossible to find replacements.

[stj]

that's not true, 10mm is a standard size, just not one that should be in a meter!

[Mr. Scram]

One of the real weak points of these meters (IMHO) is that the fuses are a non-standard size and it's almost impossible to find replacements.

I had no trouble finding replacements on eBay. You might need to buy leaded ones, but that shouldn't really be a problem.

[soubitos]

I just replaced the fuse holders and fuses in my ANENG AN-8008.
I got 1808 SMD fuse holders which cost around 0.20$ each, 250mA fuses cost around 0.40$ each and 10A fuses around 0.25$ each...
Total cost to replace the original fuses was around 1$ total....
Fuse holders sit nicely in the old holders spot and i soldered them from the sides with soldering iron, no need to even bother with a hot air gun etc. Just made sure to remove old (lead free?) solder which also smelled funny

[Mafketel]

I doubt those are rated for high voltages ..... not enough physical distance

[stj]

the fuses are only used for current reading, and current range is limited to 36v - so no problem.

[Fungus]

current range is limited to 36v - so no problem.

Limited by what?

Is there something preventing me from applying more than 36V to the current input? 

[HKJ]

current range is limited to 36v - so no problem.

Limited by what?

Is there something preventing me from applying more than 36V to the current input? 

The specifications says 36V, you are not allowed to make mistakes like leaving the probes in the current holes when measuring mains!