I am repairing a Razer DeathAdder Elite with a broken cable. You might have seen my mess:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/i-keep-melting-the-cable-plastic/So I decided to just replace the whole cable. However when finally getting to the connector I noticed it was 5 pin but there was only 4 wires. So what was the 5th i wondered and started probing. Turns out it was those metal strands that was wired around the wires in the cable like a shield.
Question is, on my repair. What do I do with it? I was ready with a regular 4 wire cable.
{Most right cable}
The second photo in your other thread clearly shows the sheild on both halves of the cable. The shield must be joined.
If you are replacing the whole cable, then you must replace with a shielded cable also and connect it in the same manner at both ends (if it is connected to something at both ends, it may only be connected at the end you show in the photo in this thread).
I am replacing the whole cable.
The other end is a USB A connector. Was thinking just cutting one off and old charger.
But I do actually need a cable with shielding and wire it to the connector?
I am replacing the whole cable.
The other end is a USB A connector. Was thinking just cutting one off and old charger.
But I do actually need a cable with shielding and wire it to the connector?
And that's exactly what it is. The shield on a shielded usb cable.
Your options are:
1*) Charge ahead and forget about the shield if not present. The other four USB wires (power, ground, two data lines) are essential. Fair odds it'll work fine without a shield. Also, I suggest a zip tie on the wire to provide strain relief before the exit slot.
2*) Salvage the original cable, if one side is still long enough and in working order. Ditto zip tie.
3) Buy the proper cable. They're available ready-made for that mouse, with connector attached.
*You'll need the right crimp pins and tool for the wires. Unless you're going to do a direct wire to board solder job.
And that's exactly what it is. The shield on a shielded usb cable.
Your options are:
1*) Charge ahead and forget about the shield if not present. The other four USB wires (power, ground, two data lines) are essential. Fair odds it'll work fine without a shield. Also, I suggest a zip tie on the wire to provide strain relief before the exit slot.
2*) Salvage the original cable, if one side is still long enough and in working order. Ditto zip tie.
3) Buy the proper cable. They're available ready-made for that mouse, with connector attached.
*You'll need the right crimp pins and tool for the wires. Unless you're going to do a direct wire to board solder job.
The mouse was ready to be thrown away I have two others. Thought I might fix it up and bring to work. Don't wanna spend many bux fixing it. I think I'll YOLO it without connecting it. But if possible please educate me what could happen without the shield.
The case-by-case answer will depend on the environment you use it in, and how electrically noisy that is. Worst case, the mouse doesn't work. Or works erratically.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shielded_cable
I'll report back once I get ahold of those small metal crimps for the connector. I think I have a mixed cart at amazon that is almost up to free shipping might place an order if I can find them there.
But what are the crimps called and what size? It's 0.7-0.8 mm wires
USB is twisted-pair to prevent interference, a shield is unlikely to add much additional benefit.
Ethernet runs at much higher speeds over unshielded twisted pair cabling.
USB is twisted-pair to prevent interference, a shield is unlikely to add much additional benefit.
Ethernet runs at much higher speeds over unshielded twisted pair cabling.
Since the mouse won't be used for gaming a distorted signal wouldn't be the worst. So that's what i figured. Also mice coords seldom run close to any other high power cable it's only the monitor that's close really. Don't know about RF signals example phone?
I'll go without it just have to ´get correct crimps for the ends
Identifying and finding the connector is the first step to finding the pins. Often buying the connector with pins is the easiest route for small quantities.
USB is twisted-pair to prevent interference, a shield is unlikely to add much additional benefit.
Ethernet runs at much higher speeds over unshielded twisted pair cabling.
Since the mouse won't be used for gaming a distorted signal wouldn't be the worst. So that's what i figured. Also mice coords seldom run close to any other high power cable it's only the monitor that's close really. Don't know about RF signals example phone?
I'll go without it just have to ´get correct crimps for the ends
Somehow I think it’s unlikely you have the correct tool for crimping them. Small contacts like that are quite picky about having the exact right tool used on them.