Good, low-odor, non-toxic oils for tools

[Humanoid]

I currently use 3-oin-one oil to lubricate and protect my tools as that's all I have. It seems to work fine, however I don't like the smell and it's toxic (according to the label). I used to apply the oil while wearing nitrile gloves, but those are harder to come by these days and the prices are jacked up, so I've been using my bare hands.

I'd like to get an inexpensive alternative that lacks odor (or has very little smell) that is also non-toxic and won't ruin any of the electronics that my tools come into contact with. Granted, I don't drench the tools in oil, I just wipe them down after use with a little oil and a rag, but I'd prefer not to slowly poison myself or damage things. I also moved to the southern USA recently and it is very humid here, so applying the oil frequently seems wise.

I read a bunch of posts on here and some people suggested using gun oil, motor oil, Ballistol and others. Some were in spray cans which won't work for me, and many seemed to have strong smells as per reviewers (particularly the gun oils). I have to use this indoors and would prefer something I can apply manually instead of spraying. It would be best if it comes in a container and I can pour some of it into a smaller container to apply. I don't have much experience with oils for tools so I'm open to your suggestions based on experience.

Some of the gun oil bottles with needle tips looked perfect for application, so I might grab one of those to help get into tight nooks.

Also, is there a good machine grease that comes in small amounts for long-term lubrication, like the thread/rods on a vise? I guess I could apply the same oil I do to the tools in friendlier amounts for such things, but that oil tends to be thin and may drip out.

[Gyro]

Sewing machine oil. It's odour free, non staining and is a decent quality synthetic oil.

[Cerebus]

A good, cheap, easily found, source of high purity, low toxicity, odour free, mineral oil is ... baby oil.

Just double check the back of the label before buying it. Once upon a time all baby oil was mineral oil, nowadays you get some brands that are vegetable oil based and that's a no-no as eventually it will oxidise and polymerise or exhibit rancidity. And obviously you want an unperfumed variety (which most are) unless you want your toolbox to smell like a maternity ward.

[SilverSolder]

You can buy very pure mineral oil in all US pharmacies, for next to no money.

I know you don't like sprays, but hey, maybe one day you will find a use for this - a product I can highly recommend from personal experience:  https://www.amsoil.com/p/mp-metal-protector-amp/   When the solvent evaporates, it leaves a dry, waxy kind of thin film on tools and other metal objects that lubricates and protects them from rust.  So your stuff doesn't feel so oily/greasy, yet it is protected.  Works great for protecting stuff under the hood, on motorcycles, bicycles, garden tools, etc. etc.

[ManuelMcLure]

I use TriFlow regularly for oiling my 3D printer and sewing machines. Many vintage sewing machine repairpersons swear by it. 3-in-1 tends to gum up with age, TriFlow can help break it down. I don't know about toxicity, though, and it does have an odor that you might find unpleasant.

As a grease I'm a big fan of SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease with Syncolon (PTFE) which is available in a tube at most hardware stores, even Harbor Freight. It's actually NSF-approved as food-safe.

[xavier60]

For grease, Super Lube Multipurpose Synthetic Grease (NGLI 1). It is PAO oil based which is also the base stock for many "synthetic" oils.
So for general purpose oil and contact treatment for connectors switches and Pots, I use a PAO refrigerant oil like this, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rocoil-Oil-Pao-68-Grade-1-Litre-Roc-Aa1-1L-Oil-Now-Clear-OG7040/283788055735?hash=item42131614b7:g:f2cAAOSwJrleTOzQ&frcectupt=true

There is a slight odor. I'm possibly smelling the container.
Tip, if you obtain the product in the link, decant it into another suitable container and clearly label it. The original containers tend to deteriorate with time and light exposure.

https://spectro-oils.com/ttt-pao/

[Dubbie]

I really like Rem Oil. it's a gun oil, but goes great on tools.

[David Hess]

I like using LPS-2 which leaves a protective film for guns and tools.  LPS-1 is a grease-less lubricant and also suitable which I use on connectors and switches.  LPS-2 smells like cherries to me and LPS-1 smells like mint which leads me to suspect that key oil for musical instruments is the same thing.  Since they commonly come in an pressurized can, I spray some into a labeled needle oiler for precision application.

But if you want something absolutely non-toxic, then look for a food grade oil or use mineral oil.  LPS Labs has several food grade oils but I have never used them.

[Humanoid]

You can buy very pure mineral oil in all US pharmacies, for next to no money.

I know you don't like sprays, but hey, maybe one day you will find a use for this - a product I can highly recommend from personal experience:  https://www.amsoil.com/p/mp-metal-protector-amp/   When the solvent evaporates, it leaves a dry, waxy kind of thin film on tools and other metal objects that lubricates and protects them from rust.  So your stuff doesn't feel so oily/greasy, yet it is protected.  Works great for protecting stuff under the hood, on motorcycles, bicycles, garden tools, etc. etc.

Cool. I'll check if there is a local pharmacy nearby and give them a call. I still don't know this city very well.

As for spray, the only reason I don't want to use it is because I have to work in my office/music room. I don't want to risk getting oil all over my computer and music gear if the breeze carries it If I had a garage or a little shop setup, I wouldn't care.

For grease, Super Lube Multipurpose Synthetic Grease (NGLI 1). It is PAO oil based which is also the base stock for many "synthetic" oils.
So for general purpose oil and contact treatment for connectors switches and Pots, I use a PAO refrigerant oil like this, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rocoil-Oil-Pao-68-Grade-1-Litre-Roc-Aa1-1L-Oil-Now-Clear-OG7040/283788055735?hash=item42131614b7:g:f2cAAOSwJrleTOzQ&frcectupt=true

There is a slight odor. I'm possibly smelling the container.
Tip, if you obtain the product in the link, decant it into another suitable container and clearly label it. The original containers tend to deteriorate with time and light exposure.

https://spectro-oils.com/ttt-pao/

Thanks. I did some searches and not sure if they sell that stuff in the states.

Are you using it like contact cleaner for audio gear? I know a lot of people use Deoxit, but that stuff leaves behind residues, so I've been looking for a generic alternative. I have a Roland D-110 and some other old sound modules that could use some oily love in their jacks.

I use TriFlow regularly for oiling my 3D printer and sewing machines. Many vintage sewing machine repairpersons swear by it. 3-in-1 tends to gum up with age, TriFlow can help break it down. I don't know about toxicity, though, and it does have an odor that you might find unpleasant.

As a grease I'm a big fan of SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease with Syncolon (PTFE) which is available in a tube at most hardware stores, even Harbor Freight. It's actually NSF-approved as food-safe.

I checked out TriFlow but it has toxic chemicals in it. Label says it's combustible and the vapor can irritate eyes.

That Superlube sounds like great stuff though. Food grade and dielectric. Thank you! 

A good, cheap, easily found, source of high purity, low toxicity, odour free, mineral oil is ... baby oil.

Just double check the back of the label before buying it. Once upon a time all baby oil was mineral oil, nowadays you get some brands that are vegetable oil based and that's a no-no as eventually it will oxidise and polymerise or exhibit rancidity. And obviously you want an unperfumed variety (which most are) unless you want your toolbox to smell like a maternity ward.

I will definitely look into this as well. 

I like using LPS-2 which leaves a protective film for guns and tools.  LPS-1 is a grease-less lubricant and also suitable which I use on connectors and switches.  LPS-2 smells like cherries to me and LPS-1 smells like mint which leads me to suspect that key oil for musical instruments is the same thing.  Since they commonly come in an pressurized can, I spray some into a labeled needle oiler for precision application.

I checked out LPS earlier today, but I was only finding aerosol cans and 1 gallon containers of it. Right now I'd prefer something non-toxic. I'll check out their food-grade stuff though. Thanks for the suggestion.

I really like Rem Oil. it's a gun oil, but goes great on tools.

Thanks. I checked it out but the label says "Fatal if swallowed." I'm looking for something a bit milder. 

[helius]

"Drakeol" is one recognized brand for pharmaceutical-grade petroleum, which is completely odorless, non-toxic and non-irritating. It is also known as "white petroleum oil" in the trade.
Oil for tools is commonly modified with corrosion inhibitors or wear additives, which may not be as biologically friendly.
Another thing you might consider is raw (not "boiled") linseed oil, which is an edible product in some grades. It is certainly not odorless and may be allergenic to some people, and it can turn into a hard varnish which is not appropriate for bushings or pivots, but it does work. Traditional wood tool handles were always wiped with linseed oil.

About some of the other suggestions: I would not suggest eating anything with PTFE in it. You should understand that NSF grade does not mean it is approved in food, just that it can be used in food processing plants. Methanol is NSF grade!

Unless you lack access to a sink, I would suggest premium motor oil for wiping on your tools. The smell is typically extremely faint, and it does contain corrosion inhibitors that will counteract rust from sweat, etc. If you put some in an oil can you can apply as much or as little as you need to a paper towel to wipe tools with, without getting your hands covered in it.

[xavier60]

I have been using PAO oils as contact treatment for about 20 years with very good results. Pots rarely reoffend.
Its usual application is as  synthetic air-conditioner or air compressor oil. I choose the ISO68 viscosity grade.
https://chematek.com.au/compressoroils/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5Kv7BRBSEiwAXGDElaG2dVONF1bYtFzDqlS2E4RxXEaRgo6IlFh563w_4t7Vfi5Hv8EMlxoCLV8QAvD_BwE

Problem is being able to get it in small quantities.

[Cerebus]

I like using LPS-2 which leaves a protective film for guns and tools.  LPS-1 is a grease-less lubricant and also suitable which I use on connectors and switches.  LPS-2 smells like cherries to me and LPS-1 smells like mint which leads me to suspect that key oil for musical instruments is the same thing.  Since they commonly come in an pressurized can, I spray some into a labeled needle oiler for precision application.

But if you want something absolutely non-toxic, then look for a food grade oil or use mineral oil.  LPS Labs has several food grade oils but I have never used them.

That's probably something with an exposed cyanide group on it (exposed in the sense that it's on a molecule in a position where it'll fit into a smell receptor). If you are one of the approximately 50% of the population that can smell cyanide then for you the characteristic smell of cherries, bitter almonds, cherry brandy and apricot brandy is the smell of cyanide. They all contain tiny quantities of cyanide or cyanogens. Those who can detect it, can detect it in minute quantities; those that can't would find lethal levels of cyanide odourless.

[Cerebus]

I checked out TriFlow but it has toxic chemicals in it. Label says it's combustible and the vapor can irritate eyes.

Of course all mineral oils are going to be flammable to some extent. A lot of things that could be strictly labelled "combustible" aren't likely to easily support combustion. For most lubrication grade oils labelling that merely says "combustible" shouldn't be of concern, it's accurate but not helpful. You can extinguish a lit match by plunging it into motor oil or most pharmaceutical grades of mineral oil, but they'd burn in an oil lamp (just about burn in the case of most motor oils).  On the other hand "highly flammable" or "low flash point" warnings would rule something out from your criteria.

[jogri]

About some of the other suggestions: I would not suggest eating anything with PTFE in it. You should understand that NSF grade does not mean it is approved in food, just that it can be used in food processing plants. Methanol is NSF grade!

PTFE (aka Teflon) is about as inert as it gets, if you swallow it it'll come out the other end of your body unaffected... Wouldn't recommend eating plastic, but it won't kill you (maybe apart from constipation if the piece gets stuck).

@Humanoid: I wouldn't blindly trust the warnings on SDS sheets, especially in the states they are just a wee bit too dramatic about substances that aren't that toxic. Just take the SDS of sand as an example... https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/09890.htm

The oils you listed as toxic have that classification because they consist of refined crude oil-> they contain all sorts of aromatic compounds that might or might not be toxic, so they just use the "fatal if swallowed" label to be on the safe side. If you want something that isn't toxic (allthough it can and will burn) go for medical grade liquid parrafin oil, the manufacturer has to prove that it doesn't contain any aromatics and that it is safe to drink(!!). A bit more expensive though, but definitely not toxic. You should go for the USP or NF grade stuff as drugs that have this label are certified to be pure.

Sidenote about parrafin oil: It's a PITA to remove it, it especially likes glassware and will produce some nice traces that either need lots of scrubbing or acetone...

[SilverSolder]

I have been using PAO oils as contact treatment for about 20 years with very good results. Pots rarely reoffend.
Its usual application is as  synthetic air-conditioner or air compressor oil. I choose the ISO68 viscosity grade.
https://chematek.com.au/compressoroils/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5Kv7BRBSEiwAXGDElaG2dVONF1bYtFzDqlS2E4RxXEaRgo6IlFh563w_4t7Vfi5Hv8EMlxoCLV8QAvD_BwE

Problem is being able to get it in small quantities.

You can get compressor oil in small quantities from any hardware store in the US.  -  that's actually a good idea, it is a very clean, additive free oil.  Both synthetic and "natural" compressor oils are available.

[SeanB]

Yes, I use refrigeration oil, and for a grease food grade grease, as I had to but them years ago, and the grease was essentially a lifetime buy. Refrigeration oil is cheap from the correct suppliers, and is low enough in odour to not be a worry, and I use it as a general purpose oil, and have even used it in my car to top up the oil, as it is essentially a straight SAE30 ultra pure engine oil, with pretty much no additives added to it, as they can react with the various refrigerants, especially ammonia.

[Gyro]

Sewing machine oil. It's odour free, non staining and is a decent quality synthetic oil.

Just an update. Singer sewing machine oil (super oil) comes out as "Slightly toxic".  Material Safety Data Sheet:  http://www.singer.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Ficha-de-Seguran%C3%A7a-ingl%C3%AAs.pdf

[Humanoid]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

No, I don't plan on eating this stuff. I just want to use something that I don't need to worry about if it's getting on my skin all the time and comes into contact with components and cables.

I didn't want to get into it, but I have some health problems I'm dealing with, that's why I'm trying to reduce the amount of things I'll be handling all the time that might be toxic (ignores leaded solder on desk). Just playing it somewhat safe for now since I'm not functioning at 100%. In my college days I used to plunge my hands into photo chemicals and actually enjoyed the smell. 

I also tend to be close to what I'm working on, so irritating vapors could mess with my eyes or nose.

The Dicrea SX oil (ISO 68) I'm not seeing sold here. I checked out some other compressor oils on Amazon, but many had cancer causing agents. Again, this may just be because of the State of California's stringent labeling of things even if they are in minuscule parts. Amazon doesn't list data sheets and I haven't looked those up yet to see what the deal is.

I was checking out the Super Lube 60004 as it's a thinner oil compared to their grease that someone suggested. According to the data sheet, the only real problem might arise if this stuff is mixed with an oxidizer or if it ignited as it gives off toxic fumes. Everything else seemed to be more nitpicking around Canadian and USA labeling laws. So unless I doused my soldering iron with it, it would probably work and is relatively cheap ($5 for 4oz and free 1 day shipping via amazon). Says it's rated to come in contact with food, though I wouldn't use it on chicken.

Speaking of food... I'm curious if anyone has tried coconut oil on their hand tools? I have a big jar of that stuff and it lasts for years. I use it to cook with and my cat loves it too

[Humanoid]

Yes, I use refrigeration oil, and for a grease food grade grease, as I had to but them years ago, and the grease was essentially a lifetime buy. Refrigeration oil is cheap from the correct suppliers, and is low enough in odour to not be a worry, and I use it as a general purpose oil, and have even used it in my car to top up the oil, as it is essentially a straight SAE30 ultra pure engine oil, with pretty much no additives added to it, as they can react with the various refrigerants, especially ammonia.

Do they sell it in small quantities? Doesn't seem like something that would be, just curious. They all seem to be sold in quarts and gallons.

Also, all the SAE30 engine oils I saw had detergents in them.

[xavier60]

I see that Super Lube are still dumbing down their data sheets, not stating what type of oil their oils are.
An email reply basically said that they don't need to say, so long as it's safe.

[SilverSolder]

Yes, I use refrigeration oil, and for a grease food grade grease, as I had to but them years ago, and the grease was essentially a lifetime buy. Refrigeration oil is cheap from the correct suppliers, and is low enough in odour to not be a worry, and I use it as a general purpose oil, and have even used it in my car to top up the oil, as it is essentially a straight SAE30 ultra pure engine oil, with pretty much no additives added to it, as they can react with the various refrigerants, especially ammonia.

Do they sell it in small quantities? Doesn't seem like something that would be, just curious. They all seem to be sold in quarts and gallons.

Also, all the SAE30 engine oils I saw had detergents in them.

Compressor oil does not have detergents and can be found in your local hardware store (US).

[Humanoid]

I see that Super Lube are still dumbing down their data sheets, not stating what type of oil their oils are.
An email reply basically said that they don't need to say, so long as it's safe.

Yeah, I noticed that. Some tests also seemed to not have been performed. Maybe it's taken from the necks of baby seals and combined with discarded mouse pads.

[rcjoy]

Starrett 1620 Tool and Instrument Oil. 

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-1620-Tool-Instrument-fl-oz/dp/B000KUA2FI

[tautech]

Inox MX3
https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx3-lubricant/

[Dubbie]

Where do you buy that in NZ Tautech?