I find it just as amazing how he can remove chips so quickly, yet his passives never fly around even though he doesn't tape anything down. I'd guess he uses a low blower speed with high temperature.
Yep, that's the trick.
Each of us has limits of what we are comfortable doing and if I don't need to use paste, I hand solder.... SMD rework....out comes the hot air station.
So what kind of temperature range would this be? Well over 350°C? Over 400?
I find it just as amazing how he can remove chips so quickly, yet his passives never fly around even though he doesn't tape anything down. I'd guess he uses a low blower speed with high temperature.
Yep, that's the trick.
Each of us has limits of what we are comfortable doing and if I don't need to use paste, I hand solder.... SMD rework....out comes the hot air station.
So what kind of temperature range would this be? Well over 350°C? Over 400?
Don't know and don't really care.
For my "dumb" rework station the hot air pencil I use the smallest tip I have, ~3mm, max heat and blower speed ~1/2. Too much flow especially if not directly above will shift components and if the nozzle is too close to your work.
It's not a reflow oven where temp profiles need be right for a satisfactory result, you need to "drive" a rework station based on some small experience. Practice and learn.
Get some broken PCB's and have a fiddle, just be aware anything modern is likely be be made with that Pb free muck that seems to have been invented to make SMD rework a nightmare.
For my techniques and experiences, see
https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2015/03/25/assembling-pcbs-with-surface-mount-components/ Given it was my first SMD board, I was pleasantly surprised at the degree of success.
TL;DR: the minimum special equipment is solder paste, jeweller's screwdriver, tweezers, head-mounted magnification visor, saucepan, and some sand. Note the lack of a soldering iron. Mistakes (e.g. bridges) can be rectified with a soldering iron, solder wick, and liquid flux.
If you want to
desolder and solder individual SMD devices, a hot air gun and polyimide tape is desirable. The tape is used to deflect air away from components that are not to be changed. After practice, I've used them to successfully replace the infamous caps and R2013 shown in
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-2465b-oscilloscope-teardown/msg614937/#msg614937
Thank you everyone for your advice.
I seem to have managed to good solder joint today!
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