How do you open up an AMP 24 pin CPC socket

[vjekobalas]

I seem to have a connectivity problem with one of the wires
but not sure how to open up the connector. I tried poking two
allen keys in the holes which were not occupied and holding
them with pliers while I unscrewed the back part clock-wise,
but it doesn't budge (at least my conclusion from youtube
was that the back part was screwed on) - would appreciate help.

[CaptDon]

That one has a cable clamp and backshell. Take the two screws out of the cable clamp, pull the wedge out. The backshell unscrews in a normal fashion, lefty loosey - righty tighty. You may have to partially insert that connector into its mate to hold it while you unscrew the backshell.

[vjekobalas]

Thanks for replying confirming (silly me for not using the other end of connector to hold the connector half)-
it did take a bit of force to free the backshell. Looks like one wire doesn't have continuity
at connector end - the other end is soldered to a pcb. On the pcb end there are two pcb pushbutton
switches and no other associated electronics (used for left/right hand) and one doesn't work because of this wire.

I'd like to remove the wire and pin to see if I'm lucky and the problem is there - is there a cheap solution
as far as tools are concerned for removing a pin from female connector half and crimping a new pin ?

[CaptDon]

You really should get up on Ebay Etc. and get the proper AMP pin pusher. You release these pins from the front of the connector and out the back. The pin pusher is a hollow metal tube, Slightly smaller than the hole in the connector and very slightly larger than the body of the pin. As you slide the metal tube into the connector it will compress two or three little tabs that stick out from the pin and face backwards. Once the metal sleeve is pushed in as far as it will go then there is a plunger which pushes down through the hollow tube and pushes the pin out the back side of the connector. You may find some kind of metallic tube that will work for you. We actually had those pin pushers in a vending machine out on the wire floor at GE locomotive factory. All you needed was your employee badge to 'buy' one.

[vjekobalas]

Took a photograph of what was written on the shell :
 "18307 3-1" and separately "AMP      2" :
https://www.kynix.com/Detail/348018/183073-1.html
https://www.kynix.com/uploadfiles/pdf/183073-1.pdf
The pdf file indicates the connector is Series 1 , 24 position, shell size 23
and uses size 16 contacts. From page 10 table in:
https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/CPC-Catalog.pdf
looks like CPC series 1 can accept contacts type II, III+, posted III+
My wire including insulation has a diameter of 1,5mm
The shield including insulation/heat shrink has a diameter of 2,0mm
(in case the problem is not in the end and I need to change the cable)

Found the cheapest pin/socket remover:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/te-connectivity-amp-brand/305183-10355949.html
this is a newer version for Type II, III and above contacts.

As far as I understand this would be a cheap version of the correct crimper for closed
barrel (I understand closed barrel not having the "ears" at end of pin/socket which need to be bent)
for 20-26AWG:
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Deutsch-Closed-Barrel-Crimper-Ratcheting/dp/B01N3KVX8D/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1521049848&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=closed+barrel+crimper

Would appreciate a pointer on socket choice and whether the crimp tool is
correct. One other thought - if the fault is at the socket end, the cheapest
would be to replace present socket with a solder type - would this be
a good idea/is there one available ?

[CaptDon]

The crimper is wrong for sure. It is listed as being for use on D-Sub pins. Those pins are about 1/2 the diameter of your pins. Also, the pin pusher looks correct, however, again, there are two sizes of the pin pushers, the 'big' size that you need, and the smaller D-Sub pin size. Both pin pushers look the same, only their diameters are different. I am going to try to upload a picture in a few minutes of the alternative pin pushers I have.

[CaptDon]

Here is my alternatives for many connectors. As you can see I have many sizes. They go together as sets Extractor/Inserter. The size that seems to work for the larger AMP pins is from Aiconics (possibly Alconics) part number M81969 / 14-03 that is the blue part, and its mate the white part has the same number on it since they are a set with the little bridge part to hold them together. I can't find my nice metallic AMP extractor, I had one here at the house but it has gone awal at the moment!

[jpanhalt]

Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Pin-Insertion-Extraction/dp/B078NWY1JX/ref=sr_1_15?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2NrqkOGi9AIVTnZvBB3knQE0EAAYASAAEgLL5vD_BwE&hvadid=174224212721&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9015391&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1208467573440529364&hvtargid=kwd-32810608155&hydadcr=8457_9619021&keywords=amp+pin+removal+tool&qid=1637267614&qsid=142-9500830-7099116&sr=8-15&sres=B006962LBU%2CB00OQPLR4S%2CB07ZC1V2W6%2CB003TYKDWE%2CB082FDGVD9%2CB07GTQJB3H%2CB08LQG4YHN%2CB08ZSXG1RJ%2CB08295ZWL2%2CB0195V3EHK%2CB078NWY1JX%2CB08HSYPJ2X%2CB07476C1LD%2CB0002JMYKS%2CB0922GF9W8%2CB097JS5M6Q%2CB08XWD944Q%2CB08LFZ36XM%2CB08PBQLQ4C%2CB00B88EXCO

Unfortunately, the geniuses at Amazon have disabled the ability to snip the image.  That price of $16 for 3 is outrageous.  They used to give them away.

[vjekobalas]

I had no idea this was going to be so much trouble  at least I know
it is a CPC Series 1 connector AND
according to CaptDon, the crimper I listed was wrong as it was for D-sub
pins, so I presume the extractor mentioned by jpanhalt is not the correct one.
So, I have the extraction tool sorted out - I can find the Aiconics tool on ebay
or the AMP tool :
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/305183/70089873/
which is actually:
https://costarhd.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/1500009288242-Recommended-Tool-for-AMP-Connector-Extraction.

I still need to identify which pins/sockets I need to buy and
a reasonably priced crimp tool (this may be a one off job).

For the pins/sockets, I am looking at p.19 of:
https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/CPC-Catalog.pdf
I am not sure whether "ins.dia. range" means insulation diameter range
i.e. diameter of wire + outside insulation
as the wire I am using has an outside diameter including insulation of
1,5mm and 2mm for the heatshrinked shielding.
If I am interpreting this correctly, I would need pins/sockets ".040-.0801 [1.02-2.03] " for the 1.5mm diameter
wire and  the same or larger ".060-.1205 [1.52-3.05]" for the 2mm shielding.

Can you please help me identify the correct pin/sockets and crimper.
If a solder joint socket is available and good to use, this would be
the cheapest as I would not need the crimper.

[jpanhalt]

I use a lot of homemade tools.  When I was working with some avionics connectors, I made the attached tool.  As mentioned below, you want something that just goes over pin you want to remove and fits in the hole of the connector.  I polished the end so it slipped in easily.  McMaster carries a nice assortment of SS tubing that might work.  It's where I got mine: https://www.mcmaster.com/miniature-stainless-steel-tubing

Edit: Just noticed your country flag.  McMaster is probably out of the question for you.  At least you can get an idea of the sizes available.  It might be easier to buy "hypodermic" tubing, which often/usually goes by gauge size.

[vjekobalas]

The extraction tool is now clear and I can order it. What I am still not clear on
is indicated in post #8.

[CaptDon]

Years ago I had a large stock of various AMP pins and connectors given to me for my ham radio shack usage. I had no crimper or inserter/extractor so I made the extractor from brass tubing I had that came from the R.C. model airplane hobby and for the crimping I cut away a tiny portion of the 'ears' and simply soldered the wire to the pin. I have seen some industrial factory screwups where they crimped onto the insulation only and the wire had intermittent connection!! I can say none of my soldered pins ever went intermittent!! Be thankful you are not dealing with Souriau connectors, their crimper/inserter/extractor kit cost $3000 U.S.D.!!! We thought one of our kits got stolen but fortunately a field service guy borrowed it for a few days and then returned it!!

 

[vjekobalas]

OK guys, I get the drift - diy is the way to go for a cheap solution
and since it is most probably a one off job, will certainly go in that
direction.

Can you just help me out in identifying correct sockets to buy ?
As I said, the wire is 1.5mm diameter including insulation
and the shielding is 2mm diameter with heat-shrink -which wire (AWG)
is that ?
here p.3:
https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Data+Sheet%7F1-1773908-9_CPC_Selection_Guide%7F2012%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_DS_1-1773908-9_CPC_Selection_Guide_2012.pdf%7FCAT-AM71-C83998J
it says Type II contacts for 28-14 AWG
Type III 30-14 AWG
and where do you buy them (or do they also cost an enormous amount) ?

[vjekobalas]

In the end I found a source of plastic insert/extractor tools on ebay and after
an enormous amount of time, the packet arrived and I thought it would be
a piece of cake BUT unfortunately that is not the case.

I would appreciate any ideas/words of wisdom how to remove the
pin(socket). As can be seen on the attached photo, I put the yellow wire
into the opening of the white extractor part, slide the extractor fully over
the wire, slowly push the extractor down into the connector and
after centering the wire with a pen cap, the extractor tip opens up a bit more
and slides to the bottom of the pin(socket) - you can see the end of the
extractor has been widened a bit to fit over the pin. I try simultaneously
to push down with extractor and slightly pull the wire then pull extractor
also but always I hear a slight click and feel a ridge and the wire
does not budge - no matter in which direction I turn the extractor, the result
is the same. Is there a way to remove the pin  (asks a very annoyed and disturbed person ) ?

[jpanhalt]

Are you sure the extractor should insert from the back (wire side)?  Note the barbs (attached) will be easier to compress if you insert the tool from the front.

[CaptDon]

The tool absolutely inserts from the front of the connector and the pin can be pushed out through the backside!!!!  I specifically mentioned that in an earlier post. Using the blue tool from the front will also require some sort of stiff wire slid down through the hollow blue shank to push the pin out.

[jpanhalt]

I think someone else mentioned this too.  Push the wire toward the front to release the barbs from where they are "dug in."

[vjekobalas]

Folks, sorry for not re-reading the posts - after the long period to get the two M81969 / 14-03 extract/insert
tools, I had looked at some videos on youtube and the guy was pushing the white extract part of the tool from the
back.

Anyway, forgetting youtube and getting back to what you have written.
I found some 1,5mm2 copper wire as well as some other thinner copper wire (found some steel wire also)
for pushing purposes. I took the wire from the back with left hand, pushed it forward into the connector to relieve
the barbs and inserted the blue part of the tool (which is weird for me since it says "INSERT" on it)
from the front with the right hand.

BUT I'm stuck at the insertion of the blue "INSERT" tool from the front - the pin/socket has some wobble/space around it
but the blue tool doesn't seem to go over the pin/socket and down over the barbs.

Once I get the pin/socket out, since this is a one-off job, was thinking of just cutting the pin/socket
and soldering the wire back since I don't have a crimper - what did you use to cut the pin/socket ?

[jpanhalt]

The clearances are very tight.  All of my tools are quite thin metal (a few thousanths).  I was suspicious plastic would work.  It sounds like your technique is correct.  Maybe just the wrong tool.

[vjekobalas]

I'm afraid you could be right unless CaptDon can pull me out of this as he has used
the Aiconics M81969 / 14-03 blue/white tool. I can understand the prices of these tools
for someone working in the industry every day, but for me it's a one-off and am in
a specially delicate financial situation right now , so I can't afford the expensive tools.

[jpanhalt]

Do you have access to "shim" stock?  It is generally mild steel/brass of closely held thicknesses from 0.0005" up to 0.020" and more.  I would try steel in about 0.001" to 0.003" (0.05 to 0.1mm), roll it around a piece of music wire the diameter of a pin or slightly smaller, and see if you can get it inserted from the front.  Stainless is probably too springy.  Any good machine shop probably has some scrap lying around.  Most common hobby tubing (like telescoping brass) will have a wall thickness of 0.014", which is probably too thick, but very thin wall SS is also available.  McMaster-Carr.com lists a variety of thin wall stainless ("hypodermic") tubing.  Some of the larger diameters are available with wall thickness of 0.005".

[vjekobalas]

Haven't checked for shim stock yet. Today I have some bad news and worse news for myself -
the wire in question broke at the pin/socket and I don't get any continuity. What's funny
is that with an old Fluke 8020A, I do get some low resistance sometimes  from the
broken wire to the shielding of the cable  on the other end of the cable so it seems
I must replace the cable as it could be creating other problems.
Now comes a bigger headache - I need to remove 8 pins/sockets and buy 8 pins/sockets
which can be soldered or modified for soldering as I don't have a crimp tool.

[jpanhalt]

If you are sure of the connector, it might be easier just to buy a new connector part.  For me, I would still give extraction a try, as it will be useful experience.

[vjekobalas]

I should have said I need to remove 8 sockets rather than pins/sockets.
I asked TE connectivity regarding the sockets and they said the following
(catalog: https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/CPC-Catalog.pdf
P22 attached since catalog is too large):
"I have checked with our Engineering team and they have mentioned that you
can use Any solder type socket contacts found on page 22 of the attached catalog
or crimp style socket contacts on page 19 can be used with this connector. Pages
should be considered of the document (out of 87).
You can select the terminals according to the wire size you use."

So, I think I have two alternatives (just due to cost and availability) regarding the
sockets
(a)extract old sockets and cut them a little and reuse for soldering (haven't had
any experience with cutting/not sure what is best tool for this)
(b)from p22 of catalog the cheaper tin solder socket "202237-5"
and the tool as mentioned on P22 is "Extraction Tool Part No. 305183" - I presume
this is both for insertion and extraction.

[jpanhalt]

I don't think that extraction tool can be used for insertion as there is no slot for the wire.  The set of plastic tools you have may work or almost anything that can push on the contact and not the wire will work.  You might even get by using the wire, but hold it very close to the contact.  It is not nearly as critical dimension wise as extraction.