I have an LED DRIVER on several Aquarium lights...looking for info on the LED dr

[OutThere]

I tried search first. all i found was a chip with the same company logo that was a driver of some sort for a SMPS. I believe the company is iweek.cn. I went to their website clicked translate to english when i searched reverted back to Chines. the chip is an LED driver DP9511. Its's a submersible tube with an LED strip. I have repaired several ( replaced burnt out SMD LED) but they only last for a day then I checked the power output way high. I checked the power output of a new one and it was 3v x the number of smd led's. so was wondering if some could get me a data sheet or equivalent data sheet. Something else crossed my mind, well actually 2
1. whatever the count of LEDs they seem to have the same chip. only parts on the pcb are the afore mentioned chip, an electrolytic cap, and a small power resistor. do they use an RC network to select the output voltage?
2. it's possible that the light strips were defective to begin with the higher voltage, like i said the new one was led count times 3v

   I think humidity/ condensation may build up and short out the unit......some this happens to others work fine so not sure

I think i found what I was looking for  if you want to still look to...great or comment on how the chip functions would like to hear that also

https://www.scribd.com/document/662331058/DP951X-REV1-0-CN

[BennoG]

Usually they do constant current output, so the number of leds does not matter.
When measured with a unloaded output the voltage can be high 70V is no exception.

You need to measure the output when the circuit is loaded and the leds are working.

Benno

[tunk]

The resistor connected to the CS pin probably sets the
current - doubling the resistor value may half the current.

Edit: Currently I'm playing around with an LED driver
based on an LC6640 chip. On that it seems that increasing
the resistor value, the max output voltage is reduced.
It may also be the case for your chip.

[tunk]

Just got another LED driver with the LC6640. There's not much info out there,
so I thought I should add what little I found.

Info from this page: https://en.eeworld.com.cn/bbs/thread-1253612-1-1.html

Lichiwei LC6640 SOP7 high-precision flyback LED constant current driver chip
supports full range 85~265Vac

The original agent of Lichi Micro LC6640 is a high-precision flyback LED constant
current driver chip. The chip works in the inductor current discontinuous mode and
is suitable for isolated flyback LED constant current power supply with a full range
of input voltages from 85Vac to 265Vac. The chip uses patented demagnetization
detection technology and high-voltage JFET power supply technology, without the need
for VCC capacitors and startup resistors, making its peripheral devices simpler and
saving peripheral costs. The chip has multiple protection functions, including LED
short circuit protection, open circuit protection, chip temperature overheating
regulation function, etc. LC6640 uses SOP7 package.

Features:
◆ No VCC capacitor, no startup resistor
◆ Integrated high voltage power supply function
◆ No need for auxiliary winding detection and power supply
◆ Wide input voltage range
◆ ±5% LED output current accuracy
◆ LED short circuit protection
◆ LED open circuit protection
◆ EN function
◆ Chip power supply undervoltage protection
◆ Overheat regulation function

application
◆ LED bulb
◆ LED downlight
◆ Other LED lighting

From this page it looks like the circuit topology is "PSR DCM", it has a 0.5 power
factor and that it works up to 40W (100-264Vac) or 48W (175-264Vac):
https://www-lichiwei-com.translate.goog/product.php?id=7&_x_tr_sl=zh-CN&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc&_x_tr_sch=http

Pictures are from the first link.

[tunk]

Experimenting a bit more with the LED driver I got.
Specifications are 30W power and output 20-38Vdc @900mA.
Using a no-name driver at full power isn't a good idea.
It had three 1 Ohm resistors in parallel connected to
the CS pin (=Current Selection?). Did not record the
power with all three in place, but removing one of them
reduced the power to 22W (~20W assuming 90% efficiency)
(using a simple power meter). Removing another yielded
no visible LED output. Adding a 2.2 Ohm in parallel gave
17W (~15W assuming 90% efficiency).

Photo of driver (you have to excuse the bad soldering):