I'm using a 7812 1 Amp voltage regulator. I think it's RF as well, I've made some decoupling adjustments from the PCB to the chassis. And added some additional capacitance to the output. I'm yet to try it hopefully today. And if that still plays up, I will look at it with a scope to try and work it out. I've gone with a budget Owon HDS242 hand held scope.
I'm using a 7812 1 Amp voltage regulator. I think it's RF as well, I've made some decoupling adjustments from the PCB to the chassis. And added some additional capacitance to the output. I'm yet to try it hopefully today. And if that still plays up, I will look at it with a scope to try and work it out. I've gone with a budget Owon HDS242 hand held scope.
Show us a photo of the implementation. Long wires and solderless breadboards are fertile ground for strange unrepeatable behaviour.
Some linear regulators oscillate with too much capacitance on their output. Either reduce the capacitance or insert a damping resistor (tant bead capacitors used to be popular because they have non-zero ESR).
I will post a picture in the thread where I asked for help with the voltage drop problem. It's in the design section, I used Vero FR4 gold plated board. The traces are 1.5mm solid copper wire, or solid thick solder traces on the plated track side to carry the current. I haven't used a bread board for testing, it can't carry the 10 Amps I will load the circuit down with. If it does play up again, I should have a scope very soon to look at the unstable voltage dropping output.
I will post a picture in the thread where I asked for help with the voltage drop problem. It's in the design section, I used Vero FR4 gold plated board. The traces are 1.5mm solid copper wire, or solid thick solder traces on the plated track side to carry the current. I haven't used a bread board for testing, it can't carry the 10 Amps I will load the circuit down with. If it does play up again, I should have a scope very soon to look at the unstable voltage dropping output.
Bollocks.
I forgot I had previously given you A Big Hint as to etiquette.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/tight-budget-first-scope/msg5273571/#msg5273571BTW, your points are irrelevant to the potential issues I noted. (E.g. the current carrying capacity of those inductors is irrelevant; their inductance is relevant
https://chemandy.com/calculators/round-wire-inductance-calculator.htm ).
I'm going to ignore anymore posts from you, I find your manner very rude. I haven't a clue as to what inductors your referring to. I'm not using inductors. Any further post you make will be ignored, your clearly trolling for an argument. Not with me pal.
I'm going to ignore anymore posts from you, I find your manner very rude. I haven't a clue as to what inductors your referring to. I'm not using inductors. Any further post you make will be ignored, your clearly trolling for an argument. Not with me pal.
The link I gave will allow you to calculate the value of the inductors you have told us you are using.
If you want to help why not answer the other thread?
If you want to help why not answer the other thread?
Which other thread? (How many active threads are there?)
If you look at my responses in this thread you will see that I have answered people who have provided information.
In addition, several times I provided help and pointers to the OP,
which he chose not to consider. Horses, water, and all that.
I've been evaluating this from the perspective of someone with a vast suite of high end kit.
Take a very serious look at the Hanmatek DOS1104. It has a no BS 140MHz AFE, first rate FFT (though with incorrect labels) and can be had via Aliexpress for under $200 USD.
It is NOT suitable for anything other than analog work because of the short memory, but it's really good for HF ham radio work.
My testing has used one of Leo Bodnar's superb pulsers and a noise source. The latter and the FFT showed the AFE response very clearly.
BTW it's an Owon rebrand. I am working on converting mine to LiPo power. It needs 1.7 A @ 5 V which is more than the BMS/boost convertors I've tried so far. The MT3608 generates far too much heat going from 3.7 to 5 V at 1.7 A and as the LiPo voltage drops the increasing current draw causes the BMS to shutdown.
The next iteration will use a 2S BMS and a buck convertor.
Have Fun!
Reg
HANMATEK Handheld Digital Oscilloscope 50Mhz Bandwidth with 2 Channels HO52 3.5"TFT Mini Oscilloscope, 2 in 1 Oscilloscope and Multimeter, Backlit Screen, Auto-Calibration Function, Memory Function https://amzn.eu/d/bRAnOJF
Just tried the link again to the scope I'm probably going to go for. It's on Amazon for £129 I'm not expecting bells and whistles, but from the advice I've read so far, and my limited knowledge, hopefully this will do the job. Thank you all for your help.
I can't speak for the Hanmatek, but I have a Hantek which is pure crap and and Owon HDS272S. The Owon is quite nice and does what it says. Only serious downside is the UI is hobbled by the form factor. The Hanmatek is almost certainly an Owon rebrand. The Owon is part of my Field Day test bench.
Have Fun!
Reg
I'm going to ignore anymore posts from you, I find your manner very rude. I haven't a clue as to what inductors your referring to. I'm not using inductors. Any further post you make will be ignored, your clearly trolling for an argument. Not with me pal.
Sorry to have to tell you this, but you are *way outside your lane*. You are sufficiently ignorant of very basic electronics as to be unable to use *any* assistance. When you get an answer you don't understand it. Go read some books. *Every* conductor is an inductor.
Had I read the thread I'd never have posted a reply.
Reg
I meant I wasn't using any inductors in the circuit build, I didn't say the load wasn't and inductive type. Well it's probably inductive and resistive. I read a lot of electronic articles, when I come across them. Although I know I'm still a novice hobbyist, that's why I asked questions on a budget scope to fault find a power supply dropping what I think is a bit much voltage. I ended up with the Onwon HDS 242 scope, I've not used it yet, but it looks nicely built. The interface seems suitable for a non professional hobbyist. Probably my last post here, I have taken in everything that has been said to me by posters in this, and my other thread. Which I will post the outcome of the suggestion put to me that I've implemented. Thank you for all your help on thoughts on a budget scope. And I don't delude myself, I have got loads to learn.
PS. I take in every post that appears, if I don't reply exclusively to a post doesn't make me ignorant. I think some people force there opinions on OP's and if they don't respond, they go off on one. I've read all the posts, and wasn't happy with one members rude behaviour, that doesn't make me ignorant. I've got no time for narcissistic traits in some individuals. Thanks again for the help.
I meant I wasn't using any inductors in the circuit build...
If you have a 6"/150cm piece of wire in your circuit, then you also have a ~150nH inductor in your circuit[1]. Bad news, especially in a ground lead for a voltage regulator.
[1] if not, then you have made your fortune
I'd like to suggest the OP buy an older edition of "Electronic Principles" by Albert Malvino. I worked my way through the 2nd ed many years ago recording all my work in a bound quadrille ruled notebook. I've not seen it since Baker took over updating the book, but was horrified when a friend paid $200+ for the current edition when older editions are $5-10. Every edition is different as things get dropped to make room for new devices.
There are numerous basic circuits and Dr. Malvino built every one to verify that no typos had crept in. Not many authors care that much about their readers.
All real world conductors have resistance and induction if there is current flowing. And is capacitively coupled to every other conductor in the circuit if there are potential differences. These are generally referred to as "parastics" and they are the bane of everyone who designs and builds electronic circuits.
The OP did make a good decision on the Owon HDS242, though the S version with the AWG would have been a better choice for not that much more.
Have Fun!
Reg