Purchased an oscilloscope but did I make a mistake? (re: newbie + Arduino, etc)

[bitseeker]

Yes, there has been success in battery powering the 1054Z. I believe one project powered it with DC through the existing power supply, whereas another went directly to the main board. The former would be good for easily switching between battery and mains operation while the latter could be more compact (LiIon or LiFePO4 inside) for permanent DC operation. It's been a while, so I don't remember the exact details of the projects, but there are threads on it around here.

[sofakng]

Hey guys ... I received my DS1054Z and I've checked the built-in function generator (to compensate the probes) and each channel.  What else should I check before I rip up the boxes?  (ie. how can I verify everything is OK with the scope)

[malagas_on_fire]

Check the probes in modes x1 and x10, compensate the probes in mode x10, with calibration input so the square wave becomes crisp, Then try the waveform generator with modes x1 and x10
- Auto mode

- Normal mode using trigger menu and trigger level


Aquire waveforms from the waveform generator, ( try diferent frequencies)


Try the front USB port ( save waveform in bitmap).

Connect to a computer with given software

[rstofer]

I gave you a sample Arduino PWM project above (Servo).  You can repeat it for each of the four channels or you can run 4 different PWMs, one per channel.  Get used to the controls.

You can bang together a few resistors and make an DAC like this:https://www.hackster.io/Arduino_Scuola/build-a-simple-dac-for-your-arduino-4c00bd

[rstofer]

Then try the waveform generator with modes x1 and x10

I don't think the DS1054Z has a waveform generator.  Well, I'm pretty sure it doesn't because I have the scope.

It does have the compensation output but that's about it.

A lot of waveforms can be produced with an Arduino.

[malagas_on_fire]

Ok only the model DS1074Z-S has buitin function generator . Sorry


Use the rstofer sugestion about arduino. You can build some triangle waveforms with PWM, using passive components :

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Square-to-triangle-wave-converter-circuit.php

Sinusoidal can be read using a 230 AC transformer voltage to a lowest voltage, which can be found in some old radios, power supplies without regulation.

But check also if all ports are working.
 

[alsetalokin4017]

Hey guys ... I received my DS1054Z and I've checked the built-in function generator (to compensate the probes) and each channel.  What else should I check before I rip up the boxes?  (ie. how can I verify everything is OK with the scope)

Don't rip up the boxes!

I strongly recommend leaving the scope turned on for a long period of time, like overnight. If the Options time out you can just unlock everything using the standard method.

If it is going to fail in any way you want it to fail within the _vendor's_ warranty period (which was 30 days for my purchase). This will make replacement a lot easier if there should be something wrong. It took three tries before I got a fully functional scope. First one had an intermittent glitch on CH4, that I finally proved by using the Mask Test function, leaving the scope on with no inputs to anything. Returned to TEquipment for a replacement. The replacement had the unusual "freeze bug" where, with certain settings, it would become completely unresponsive to controls (except the hard power switch of course.) This one had to go back to Rigol USA for a replacement. SO I'm now using the third unit, which has been fine in all respects. (To their credit, Rigol USA actually _asked_ me to send them the freezy unit, after they saw my videos on the bug. And they sent me a replacement before I returned mine, so I could test them both side-by-side for a weekend.) So I'm sorry, I am not one of the folks who will diss Rigol CS.

Moral of the story: Don't rip up the boxes! 

[IDEngineer]

Don't rip up the boxes!

That's good advice, definitely don't at least until the warranty expires. Many higher end equipment warranties specifically require that you return the device(s) in their original shipping boxes. Ostensibly this is because the boxes were specifically designed to protect that specific piece of equipment, but the unspoken truth is it's just an additional barrier to warranty claims.

I always retain such boxes for at least the warranty period and often well beyond, just in case. It's paid off a couple of times. You can always nest smaller boxes inside others to save space.

[mtdoc]

Having the original box and packaging is also useful if you sell it later.

[IDEngineer]

To their credit, Rigol USA actually _asked_ me to send them the freezy unit, after they saw my videos on the bug. And they sent me a replacement before I returned mine, so I could test them both side-by-side for a weekend. So I'm sorry, I am not one of the folks who will diss Rigol CS.

I definitely second this opinion! I bought my 4024 scope new straight from Rigol and a few months later it froze during bootup. Their CS folks were top-notch, working me through the magic secret handshake process to reach the bootloader and get the scope up and running. Then, in the same phone call, the guy asked me to let them swap it out for a second new scope just because this one had glitched that one time. They sent the new one while I kept the existing one to use, and just had me drop the old one in the new box using a paid-for UPS label. Could not have been easier or more professional. The replacement has been flawless ever since.

I have nothing but praise for Rigol's Customer Service! 

[malagas_on_fire]

How's the learning curve and testing of the new scope? I just have opened my uni-t 81b to check the fuses and they are glass 250V 0.5A for mA/uA and 10A / 10 range.

The most strange part is that they don't fill the metalic contacts of fuse holder and for that it would require a 25mm wide fuse, maybe a 6x25mm fuse, but in the local stores the 5x20mm is more easy to get... Well hope they last under warranty

Most important during warranty is testing all functions off the device to be in spec with the given manual. Also check if there is any leakage on the ground pin to the mains, cause i found that my tv of the kitchen was leaking 117Vac to the chassis ( HDMI / RF ground to earth), because i got electric shock on the TV of my room and when i approached the grounds it was doing a small spark. The solution was using an old travel converter (220V /110V) to isolate it from mains.. but should i mess up with warranty with this issue?