1. Prevent overheating in the first place Since this is in a metal box, use it as a giant heat sink. Make sure the components that generate the heat, make good physical contact with the box.
Well, yes, that's the hope! I
think "good contact" should be straight forward (note to self: consider using thermal paste / pads / compound), but, while I should have lots of
mass, I'm not sure how well it will radiate. (My heat load is continuous over potentially many hours, so I expect it to hit thermal equilibrium.) Unfortunately, the best place to put heat sinks is inside the box, pointed either downward, or sideways on the side opposite the exhaust vent, neither of which is ideal. (Plus, said locations are exactly where I'd be putting a thermostat, so I'm probably looking at a "choose one and only one" situation.)
On the plus side, I think most of my heat generation will have a slab of metal between it and my electronics. (Which won't keep the load from cooking itself, but at least the fire risk if it does should be lower than otherwise.)
2. If you have a I2C bus, you could use something like a LM75 to measure temperature, and have the ATiny decide when to power things of.
3. Last but not least, use a NTC with an OpAmp to control a switch.
I don't have free pins on the ATtiny I'm already using, and for a safety system, I'd prefer sticking with a plain comparator (I think that's what you mean for (3)?) for the triggering device. However, I don't have board space for either of those options.
I
did finally manage to dredge up the 67L080. Unlike the stuff meant for batteries, it's rated for up to 48 V. For now, I've slapped one of those on the load side; if it trips, it will cut out not only the load, but will also open the relay (and it won't re-close on its own, so the load will stay off even if the 67L080 resets). The plan is for it to just be waving in the air, out of the direct path of my fans. IIUC, the load needs to be kept under 85°C, so this isn't
exactly protecting that (for that, I'd need something in contact with the case, if not the load itself), but I'm hoping that will at least guard against the PCB catching fire, and somewhat protect the 75°C rated PSU? (That said, if (1) works well enough — and I hope to do some testing to that end before I've committed to building the whole project — I'll use a 67L070 or lower.)
Look at [list of parts].
Right. Of those I could actually find, they look to be essentially the same as the "Klixon"s Tim mentioned... probably what I'm looking for, but figuring out how to order them looks like fun, unless I'm willing to go to Amazon or eBay. But... yeah, that seems to be the best option for AC side protection and/or reacting to case surface temperature. (Do you have a link for "LSD9700"? I failed to find that with either Google or Octopart.)
Apparently "snap action thermostat" is the magic query. What do you think of the NTE DTO series, e.g. DTO170? They're cheap and seems to be exactly what I need... and have clear part numbers with readily available suppliers; things that seems to be lacking from Honeywell and Sensata. (I might prefer a Sensata, but if I can find part numbers at all, they're coming up in the $100 range or higher. Honeywells range from $15 to $50 but they have
way too many part numbers that I haven't been able to figure out what's different, and supply seems to be dodgy.)