Soldering station for a Newbie

[kuemmel]

Hi,

About me: I'm 20 years old and I am a Sysadmin from Germany. Now i would like to learn something about electronics. For that i would like to buy a soldering station for first time. Now I need a purchase recommendation from you guys! 

In German forums you can read often brands like Weller and Ersa, because most would say "it's good german quality". According to my experience, there is no more the good old quality some people know from us. That is why I like to become some recommendations from the U. S. and other countrys of the world.

If anyone would ask me, which country has the best quality in products, I would say its the USA. For example see Cisco, Apple, Google and so on..

I read some soldering station recommendations from this forum and most people mention Hakko. In Germany it's not very well known.
I found this station from a German Reseller:
https://tbk-onlineshop.de/produkt/hakko-fx-888d-16-by/

Is it a good station to learn soldering for beginners? What do you mean? Important is my durability and many spare parts, also in the future.

regards,
kuemmel

[lacek]

I bought Xytronic LF1600 being exactly in your position (I was was student of a related field, that has never ever soldered anything in life and wanted to play with electronics). I bought that new for approximately 60 euro.
This is a "good enough brand" - you can buy iron tips, it should not get broken, nor damage the user.

In German forums you can read often brands like Weller and Ersa, because most would say "it's good german quality". According to my experience, there is no more the good old quality some people know from us. That is why I like to become some recommendations from the U. S. and other countrys of the world.

Germany has lots of quality brands. Try Rhode & Schwartz.

If anyone would ask me, which country has the best quality in products, I would say its the USA. For example see Cisco, Apple, Google and so on..

Company is just company. Origin does not matter that much. The quality is myth:  some people find these products well suited to their needs other not. And there are many factor by which to judge quality:  manufacturing, consumer support, software, ergonomics...

[TheUnnamedNewbie]

There deffinetly still is good quality form germany. Rohde and Schwarz produce some of the most high-end test equipement out there.

Weller Irons are deffinatly still built like tanks. They are the defacto around my university. We prefer that the young students play with wellers because they are just impossible to break (Apart from the tips, ofcourse).

I've heard a lot of people say Hakko is a good start, but I have never used one myself so I can't vouch for it. I think Weller or Ersa stations are more expensive.

Also: If you let country decide where you buy, you are going to miss out. Every country has amazing brands. Every country also produces absolute garbage. I'll take a Rigol (China) over a low-end american USB scope any day of the week.

[kuemmel]

Also: If you let country decide where you buy, you are going to miss out. Every country has amazing brands. Every country also produces absolute garbage. I'll take a Rigol (China) over a low-end american USB scope any day of the week.

Please don't misunderstand - I also think every country has it good products, but the "good old german quality (all products made in Germany are good) doesn't exist anymore! 

[lacek]

Did it ever exist? There might have been "waves" of technical thoughts, but "All products from country X are Y" is too strong to be true no matter what X and Y are and how rigurous we are about "all".

[kuemmel]

I don't know. I think I'm too young 

Can anyone say me if the 888D is a good soldering station for me (a beginner)?

[P90]

I don't know. I think I'm too young 

Can anyone say me if the 888D is a good soldering station for me (a beginner)?

It's not bad, just make sure you get it from authorized seller, because there are lots of fake 888Ds, especially on ebay.
I would go for the ersa icon pico.

[julian1]

I don't know. I think I'm too young 

Can anyone say me if the 888D is a good soldering station for me (a beginner)?

Yes. It even comes recommended by Dave,

https://youtu.be/J5Sb21qbpEQ?t=2m10s

[daybyter]

You have a local electronics store? It might have Weller then, but no hakko, I guess?
I like my 30+ yrs old Weller, but have to admit that I can do most soldering with my Hobbyking station, too.

[kuemmel]

Right. No Hakko, only Weller and ERSA.

I like my 30+ yrs old Weller, but have to admit that I can do most soldering with my Hobbyking station, too.

Do you mean the following station?:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-station-with-adjustable-heat-range-with-eu-plug.html?___store=en_us

Are you satisfied?

[Electro Fan]

These three seem to be among the most popular:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502744&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=FX-888D&psc=1&smid=A3NVMPN3PV14R5

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502814&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+51

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WESD51-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000ARU9PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502814&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+51

Don't know if you have Amazon shopping/delivery access but one of the benefits of Amazon is the opportunity to read lots of reviews which will give you perspectives from lots of users - some experienced, some not so much.  Once you figure out what is most important for your requirements you can home-in further with questions here on the forum.

I've been using a WESD51 and it works fine but my guess is that the Hakko FX-888D is a worthy competitor to Weller because it offers a digital readout at price that is closer to Weller's "analog" station than Weller's digital readout station.   If you have a Digital Multi Meter that reads sufficiently high temperatures you could check your soldering iron's temperature but it's a little easier to use a built-in readout on the soldering station.  (I've checked my WESD51 with a DMM temperature probe and Weller's readout appears accurate; my guess is that the Hakko is accurate also.)  As for which one really enables you to solder better I think you will find some users who went from Weller to Hakko and some who went from Hakko to Weller; such reviews often say one was better than the other but it's harder to find compelling reasons why one or the other was better.  One consideration might be the price and availability of tips in your area if you think you will need more of those, but overall I don't think that's likely to be a big deal either. 

You probably can't go too far wrong with any of these three models.  I could be wrong but among these three models I think most people are choosing based on whether they want a digital readout or not, appearance (product color and packaging), and budget.  I think the end result soldering experience is probably going to be more similar than different among the three.

[NMNeil]

I have a Hakko FX 888D and love it. Before that I was looking at Weller and found that Weller only now exists in name only, it was taken over by APEX and Weller soldering tools are now made in China. Built to a price not a standard like so many things these days.

[stj]

i would recommend anything that uses T12 Hakko tips.
that could range from 20Euro to hundreds.

i noticed you didnt say what your looking to spend.

[NottheDan]

In German forums you can read often brands like Weller and Ersa, because most would say "it's good german quality". According to my experience, there is no more the good old quality some people know from us. That is why I like to become some recommendations from the U. S. and other countrys of the world.

Isn't Weller a US brand anyway?

[ed_reardon]

I believe Weller are Japanese.

My go-to iron in a Weller that's older than I am but I have an identical one from 2016 on the bench that in doesn't seem to be very different at all.

[stj]

weller *was* owned by Cooper tools.
but i think they got taken over.

[daybyter]

Right. No Hakko, only Weller and ERSA.

I like my 30+ yrs old Weller, but have to admit that I can do most soldering with my Hobbyking station, too.

Do you mean the following station?:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-station-with-adjustable-heat-range-with-eu-plug.html?___store=en_us

Are you satisfied?

Yeah...the cheapest soldering station according to Dave...   



I originally bought it as a backup for my weller wecp 20, that was falling apart a bit. The tip, that comes with the station is more or less useless (way too small for most of my solder joints). But I just ordered me a set of 10 tips from ebay.com (5$) .

Then it was good enough to repair my weller (had to replace the handle). 

I think it might be a _bit_ less powerful (maybe 10% less heat than the weller), so it might reach it's limits with bigger ground planes, or so. But my 50W weller also has it's limits there. Today, I might look for a 80 or 100W station. I have to solder 6mm gold connectors to batteries, and the weller just takes a while then.

There a some videos with tuning hints for the yihua (graphite etc), but I just turned the heat a bit up and it was ok.

Edit: if you order the station from the EU warehouse, it costs a bit more:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-station-with-adjustable-heat-range-with-eu-plug.html?___store=en_us

[Kbird]

Hi,

About me: I'm 20 years old and I am a Sysadmin from Germany. Now i would like to learn something about electronics. For that i would like to buy a soldering station for first time. Now I need a purchase recommendation from you guys! 

In German forums you can read often brands like Weller and Ersa, because most would say "it's good german quality". According to my experience, there is no more the good old quality some people know from us. That is why I like to become some recommendations from the U. S. and other countrys of the world.

If anyone would ask me, which country has the best quality in products, I would say its the USA. For example see Cisco, Apple, Google and so on..

I read some soldering station recommendations from this forum and most people mention Hakko. In Germany it's not very well known.
I found this station from a German Reseller:
https://tbk-onlineshop.de/produkt/hakko-fx-888d-16-by/

Is it a good station to learn soldering for beginners? What do you mean? Important is my durability and many spare parts, also in the future.

regards,
kuemmel

I had a cheapo hand iron for years to repair other tools etc if needed but wanted to play with electronics and Arduino etc  , so I got that exact Hakko at Xmas and I like it.  I did look at some cheap stations like the one above 1st but I didn't think the quality was there.  However the place selling the Cheap Station locally also carries the Tips for the Hakko 936 ( no longer made) but the Tips (900 series?)  also fit the FX888D and are 1/2 the price ( at least) of the T-18 Tips Hakko sells for the FX888D locally. As with the FX888D Unit itself there are tonnes of Cheap Fake Tips online , that wont last so beware of those.

 I did however buy a fake FG-100 tip tester ($16 vs $150+) and it seems to work well enough , and is good enough when changing tips to adjust the tip temps... with 67/37 solder I am finding 285°C -300C° works well

KB.

[P90]

Hi,

About me: I'm 20 years old and I am a Sysadmin from Germany. Now i would like to learn something about electronics. For that i would like to buy a soldering station for first time. Now I need a purchase recommendation from you guys! 

In German forums you can read often brands like Weller and Ersa, because most would say "it's good german quality". According to my experience, there is no more the good old quality some people know from us. That is why I like to become some recommendations from the U. S. and other countrys of the world.

If anyone would ask me, which country has the best quality in products, I would say its the USA. For example see Cisco, Apple, Google and so on..

I read some soldering station recommendations from this forum and most people mention Hakko. In Germany it's not very well known.
I found this station from a German Reseller:
https://tbk-onlineshop.de/produkt/hakko-fx-888d-16-by/

Is it a good station to learn soldering for beginners? What do you mean? Important is my durability and many spare parts, also in the future.

regards,
kuemmel

I had a cheapo hand iron for years to repair other tools etc if needed but wanted to play with electronics and Arduino etc  , so I got that exact Hakko at Xmas and I like it.  I did look at some cheap station like the one above 1st but I didn't think the quality was there.  However the place selling the CheapStation locally alos carries the Tips for the Hakko 936 ( no longer made) but the Tips (900 series?)  also fit the FX888D and are 1/2 the price ( at least) of the T-18 Tips Hakko sells for the FX888D locally. As with the FX888D Unit itself there are tonnes of Cheap Fake Tips online , that wont last so beware of those.

 I did however by a fake FG-100 tip tester ($16 vs $150+) and it seems to work well enough , and is good enough when changing tips to adjust the tip temps... with 67/37 solder I am finding 285°C -300C° works well

KB.

I find that with those knock-off Hakko 900 series tips it's hit and miss. Some last and some simply don't, since there is so much inconsistency among them. I've got some that are all iron, and some that are proper iron plated copper. In other words, there are good and shit knock-offs. I've got a couple of those knock-off temperature testers, 191 and fg-100, and they seem to work fine, then again, there's not much to them, basically a k-type thermocouple circiut... no way they're worth what Hakko charges for them. Anyway, for hobby use, you don't need temperature checking, just go by feel...

[NottheDan]

weller *was* owned by Cooper tools.
but i think they got taken over.

From what I gathered Weller was its own (US) company until it was sold to Cooper Tools in 1970. Then it came under the aegis of Apex Tool Group in 2010 When Cooper and Danaher merged their tools divisions. That then was sold off to Bain Capital in 2012, just before the rest of Cooper was taken over by Eaton Corporation. (all US companies, info gathered from Wikipedia)

[tooki]

I believe Weller are Japanese.

Japanese? I've heard confusion about Weller (mostly with people thinking it's German, since they manufacture a lot of soldering stations there), but never heard this claim before.

But they're definitely American, though as the post above explains, the company has changed hands many times.

[kuemmel]

Thank you for all your answers. I have now read many reviews about some soldering stations and now I will save money for a few more months and buy a JBC soldering station.

[Electro Fan]

Thank you for all your answers. I have now read many reviews about some soldering stations and now I will save money for a few more months and buy a JBC soldering station.

You must be doing some important soldering, or have a very good budget. For the price of a JBC you might be able to get Hakko or a Weller plus an oscilloscope

[kuemmel]

320€ in Germany


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

[stj]

got a link?

[kuemmel]

Sure:
https://www.weidinger.eu/shop/loettechnik/jbc/jbc_loet-_und_entloetgeraete/jbc_compact_line/wl26830

Most selled JBC Station in Germany.

[stj]

maybe, but i wouldnt buy an analog station.

maybe you should buy the handle and build a base:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175

[KL27x]

The numbers on a digital display mean nothing different to me than the position of a dial. I'm not sure how there is any practical difference.

Adjust temp up when the joints aren't reflowing fast enough. Turn it down when you are burning too much solder flux and having to clean the tip too often. The actual numbers don't matter. And even if they did, the numbers off a dial vs a digital display are not any different.

The only practical difference I can see for a digital display is you can see when the tip is hot after a cold start, if you watch the readout, I guess. The last time I used my Hakko 888D for an onsite task, I never even looked at the display beyond noticing that it turned red when I first turned it on. Personally, I prefer the analog version. A lot of people do.



 

[Kbird]

maybe, but i wouldnt buy an analog station.

maybe you should buy the handle and build a base:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175

He would need a FX888D to make the Controller     but then if you have the FX888D you most likely don't need the Controller ?  at least not as a beginner , (like me or him) personally I am happy with the FX888D and think it will last me may years....

KB

[P90]

I too prefer an analog knob, the digital display does nothing for me. I don't even look at the numbers, I just turn the knob up or down depending on the feel of the solder flow...

[stj]

a digital display opens up the possibility of presets.
yes, i know you can just turn the knob! 

[KL27x]

^ Sorry. I suppose there's that. I use 3 presets on my 888D. On my analog 888, I use 12:00, 2:00, and everything between.

[P90]

I have two stations with different size tips installed, covers most stuff...

[KL27x]

One place where I really rather have a dial is on a hot air gun. I am stunned by how good the 858D is for under $30.00. But I am annoyed with the buttons. I'm not even sure that presets would be sufficient on a hot air station. My last one had 3, and I never settled into using them. I'm too often changing for many variables. And using it for other things way below the melting point of solder, to boot. Click, click, click, click, click,...

[tooki]

You may also wanna consider Ersa. Other than the iCON pico (which is made in China), they're all made in Germany, and what I like about them is the extremely short distance to the tip -- the iron really feels like a pencil, it's great.

I have the iCON nano and it's great. (The only things I would improve on it are small things: only two buttons for control, the LCD isn't backlit, and the power switch is on the back.) It uses conventional heating, but is extremely responsive thanks to having huge power reserves.

The Ersa tips are inexpensive and durable. This can be a big advantage over some other brands, especially when integrated heaters come into play.

[Neomys Sapiens]

Keep away from all the No-Name and China stuff.
JBC is very nice, but due to the active tips and lower market penetration quite expensive.
The advantage of Weller and Ersa (here in Germany) is the availability of second-market accessories, which outweighs minor technical differences. With the JCB, you will have problems getting affordable tips and you should rememder that tips DO wear out. Also, having the right tip for something outweighs many other factors, so the (continued) availability of tips within your budgetary constraints is important. It is of absolutely no use to cling to a worn tip because you can't afford the replacement.

[mauroh]

I started a specific thread for this, but I think it was better to post it here, I'll delate it...

Original post:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/bakon-bk950d-soldering-station-my-opinion!!/msg1226616/#msg1226616

After reading several threads on general advise for a beginners soldering station, apparently the Bakon BK950D looks like a good candidate, so I bought one myself and give it a try. (also the heating element of my Weller WSD81 decided it was time to retire...)
I made a short video with the unboxing and first impression.
Enjoy my Itanglish 

I've used it for the last month (almost every day!!!) , for what is worth i'm pretty impressed and it does what I need.
I think the T12 cartridge will push it a step ahead of the usual Hakko 936 commonly suggested for beginners.

The only downside I can think of is the absense of a decent stand and the overall quality can't be the best for 25Euros.
I'll let you know how long the tips will last and if it will explode in the next few days 

[romhunter]

I'd recommend a Weller WS-81 or WSD-81, they're very nice, durable, and basically survive and type of torture you throw at them. Hakko FX-888 would be nice too, I have it right here on my bench. That would be a good start if you're just getting started, don't spend too much on iron but not too little.

If you want to stick to electronics for a long time, I'd recommend Metcal MX-500. Have 2 right here, never failed me and it can solder a threaded nut to another, it is a beast.

[KL27x]

@Mauroh :

Interesting that this iron took 22 seconds to melt solder.

I have read that the genuine hakko FX-951 takes something close to 5 seconds. So now I have to wonder what gives. Spec on the Bakon950D says 75W. Same as the Hakko.

I always wondered how T12 tip using only 15% more power can heat up that much faster than an 888.... which takes about 20 seconds from cold. I understand that the feedback loop can be tighter, which means you can potentially run at slightly lower temp for given joint sizes. But that doesn't significantly affect cold start time. Just looking at the tip, I can't figure out where it is that much more efficient. It looks like a significant chunk of metal... what is highly thermally capacitive and conductive, one might presume. When you swap a hot tip, is the entire back of the tip cold, or some other magic like that, due to special alloy and composite construction?

Or are FX951 users deluded when they say a cold start takes like 5 seconds?

[stj]

could be that the bakon uses a lower voltage.
the T12 is intended afaik for 24v,
i'v seen people run them from 12 to 32v so far!!!


the thermal mass is only in the last centimeter or so of the cartridge btw, the rest is a hollow tube.
so it's actual mass is lower than any conventional iron.

[stj]

cook that bitch! 

[KL27x]

https://youtu.be/KUNvtogHwMQ?t=936
Here's a vid. According to the time stamps, it takes 17 seconds from cold start to reach 750F. Which is oddly pretty close to what you would expect compared to an 888, when you factor the 15% power difference. But then guy then says "what I read is that it takes 6 seconds to heat up," after just watching the one right in front of him, which he just flipped on himself, take 3x that long. I don't get it.

the thermal mass is only in the last centimeter or so of the cartridge btw, the rest is a hollow tube.
so it's actual mass is lower than any conventional iron.

So you think the actual mass of the tip is lower than T18 tips? This would make sense as to why it could warm up faster. But now I wonder if it actually does warm up significantly faster. lol. I mean significantly more than you would expect with 15% more power, at least.

[Electro Fan]

Anyone with a Weller WESD51 know how long it takes to reach 750F from a cold start?  I'm pretty sure it's longer than the other models cited here - just curious to know how long the WESD51 should take to reach 750F.  Thx

[stj]

someone should stick a scope or voltmeter on the bakon.
i do know it heats in bursts to reduce overshoot - you see that in the video.
if it had a curve table in the mcu it could just go dc until the last second, that would probably heat twice as fast or more but need more software.

[KL27x]

if it had a curve table in the mcu it could just go dc until the last second, that would probably heat twice as fast or more but need more software.

I bet it uses AC. But aside from that, if it uses PID algorithm, it would be a pretty terrible coder to make it throttle back from full power when it's still way under set temp. If PID is holding it back, here, it has TOO MUCH software. Of the useless variety. The reason to have X watts of power is because the iron should USE all X watts when it needs it.

[stj]

http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175

some video's there to show heatup time of some irons.
all on the same controller - so a fair comparison.

damn, those weller microtweezers are fast!! 

[stj]

I bet it uses AC.

you would lose that bet, it's a switching psu with a rectified & smoothed output.

[mauroh]

Just for fun I'll try to verify the waveform with the oscilloscope, but I think the heat up time will depend also on the final temperature set.

On my video the first power up was made with the default temp set at 250 degree.
I'll measure the time setting 450 as power up set temperature.

Btw I think the point of this thread was to give some advise to a beginner choosing a soldering station and I think with all pros and cons the BK950D can be listed as a good starting point.

Mauro

[KL27x]

Mostly, it looks quite capable. Honestly, warm up time is one of my biggest concerns... not that it is the most important thing about an iron. But that it gives me an idea of the actual power output and the worst case performance... imo, this worst case would be bare thermostatic control, which really ain't bad.

The insanely glaring flaw of this iron is the stand. You gotta be kidding me.

DC, AC... ok. yeah, I had a brain fart. Just looking at the size of it, it should be obvious to anyone else. I'm having a bad decade. Any case, if it is not using "straight DC" or 99% duty cycle PWM when warming up, as well as much of the time when under use, the PID has gone way out of the way to be beyond suck.

[mauroh]

As promised I made a quick video measuring with an oscilloscope (Rigol DS1104Z) the waveforms applied to the tip of the Bakon BK950D during warm-up.
See the detail in the specific thread.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/bakon-bk950d-soldering-station-my-opinion!!/msg1229266/#msg1229266

[analogo]

i would recommend anything that uses T12 Hakko tips.
that could range from 20Euro to hundreds.

What is good about the T12 Hakko tips?

I have a FX-888D (so T18 tips) bought from http://www.watterott.com/de/Hakko-Loetstation-FX-888D (official DE distributor, IIUC) and I find the T18 tips very nice. What makes the T12 tips better?

[stj]

T12 have the heater built into the end, they dont slip onto a seperate one.

a T12 "tip" is actually everything except the plastic handle.
this makes them heat and respond faster.

it's the way to go,
hakko did it first, but now jbl and weller have made similar irons.

[Electro Fan]

looks like a good deal on Hakko FX-888D

http://www.frys.com/product/7550776?source=google&gclid=CIe1_8mqsdQCFYQ1aQodgKsJ_w

- Edit:  was $68 June 9, back to $99.99 today

[Electro Fan]

maybe Hakko is changing product color

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html

[stj]

that's the silver option that's never in stock for long!

on the older 888(not D) it also came in a nice shade of dark red!

[P90]

I wondering why used Metcal SP200 are cheap used, are they no good?

[eugenenine]

@Mauroh :

Interesting that this iron took 22 seconds to melt solder.

I have read that the genuine hakko FX-951 takes something close to 5 seconds. So now I have to wonder what gives. Spec on the Bakon950D says 75W. Same as the Hakko.

I always wondered how T12 tip using only 15% more power can heat up that much faster than an 888.... which takes about 20 seconds from cold. I understand that the feedback loop can be tighter, which means you can potentially run at slightly lower temp for given joint sizes. But that doesn't significantly affect cold start time. Just looking at the tip, I can't figure out where it is that much more efficient. It looks like a significant chunk of metal... what is highly thermally capacitive and conductive, one might presume. When you swap a hot tip, is the entire back of the tip cold, or some other magic like that, due to special alloy and composite construction?

Or are FX951 users deluded when they say a cold start takes like 5 seconds?

I think its more 8-10 seconds but still pretty fast.

[stj]

yes we get robbed in Europe buying original Hakko stuff.
i dont understand why there is so much difference in price compared to the u.s.

[P90]

yes we get robbed in Europe buying original Hakko stuff.
i dont understand why there is so much difference in price compared to the u.s.

That's unfortunate, but look on the bright side, you don't have an asshole like Trump.
 ;-)

[stj]

we have our own assholes who are far less articulate or photogenic.
probably with the same banker/shadow-government hand up their ass.

[P90]

we have our own assholes who are far less articulate or photogenic.
probably with the same banker/shadow-government hand up their ass.

lol
not to derail the track, I haven't used a Metcal,  someone local  is selling a sp-200 no iron, for $50, is that any good?

[stj]

be carefull and do your homework,
not all metcal units are RF based.

[P90]

Yeah, they have so many damn models!

[KL27x]

looks like a good deal on Hakko FX-888D

http://www.frys.com/product/7550776?source=google&gclid=CIe1_8mqsdQCFYQ1aQodgKsJ_w

- Edit:  was $68 June 9, back to $99.99 today

I read your post and went 30 minutes out of my way to stop by Fry's, Monday. The deal was still going, and that was the 12th. There were two left on the shelf.

My first one is going on 8 years and I haven't changed or wore out even a tip, yet. But $68.00 is cheaper than even a genuine Hakko replacement iron.

I think its [FX950/1 cold start] more 8-10 seconds but still pretty fast.

Well, after watching the vid of one warming up in 17 seconds, I thought about it some more. It takes my 888 about 20 to melt solder, but the guy in the vid set his to 750. So I was shortchanging the 950. Turns out it takes my 888 around 27 seconds to reach 750F with a cold 3mm bevel tip. So I can believe under 10 seconds for just melting solder, and yeah, that is pretty fast. I bet the difference is pretty noticeable on computer motherboards and the like.

[Cliff Matthews]

This one warms-up in a few seconds (and it's portable).

[stj]

i love this guy's video's
he really lays into weller!

[Electro Fan]

looks like a good deal on Hakko FX-888D

http://www.frys.com/product/7550776?source=google&gclid=CIe1_8mqsdQCFYQ1aQodgKsJ_w

- Edit:  was $68 June 9, back to $99.99 today

I read your post and went 30 minutes out of my way to stop by Fry's, Monday. The deal was still going, and that was the 12th. There were two left on the shelf.

My first one is going on 8 years and I haven't changed or wore out even a tip, yet. But $68.00 is cheaper than even a genuine Hakko replacement iron.

I think its [FX950/1 cold start] more 8-10 seconds but still pretty fast.

Well, after watching the vid of one warming up in 17 seconds, I thought about it some more. It takes my 888 about 20 to melt solder, but the guy in the vid set his to 750. So I was shortchanging the 950. Turns out it takes my 888 around 27 seconds to reach 750F with a cold 3mm bevel tip. So I can believe under 10 seconds for just melting solder, and yeah, that is pretty fast. I bet the difference is pretty noticeable on computer motherboards and the like.

Cool, congrats!
I don't really need another soldering iron but I'm thinking I should have gone back; never know how many soldering irons might be required in case the 19 oscilloscope quota is ever reached

[eugenenine]

I think its [FX950/1 cold start] more 8-10 seconds but still pretty fast.

Well, after watching the vid of one warming up in 17 seconds, I thought about it some more. It takes my 888 about 20 to melt solder, but the guy in the vid set his to 750. So I was shortchanging the 950. Turns out it takes my 888 around 27 seconds to reach 750F with a cold 3mm bevel tip. So I can believe under 10 seconds for just melting solder, and yeah, that is pretty fast. I bet the difference is pretty noticeable on computer motherboards and the like.

I originally didn't want to pay that much (for the 951) but I haven't bought myself anything nice in a long time so I splurged and am happy I did.  Sure I don't need 10 seconds vs 30 seconds warm up but its nice to have.

[KL27x]

Ha. Just to clarify, i am thinking its more like 8 to 10 seconds vs 20 to reach the temp to melt lead solder.

Or 17 vs 27 to reach a toastier temp of 750F.

I have done my due diligence when i say that. Best i can do without having a 951, myself.

Unless u have new data to add, i would think claiming 10s vs 30s is comparing the one's apple to the other's orange.

[OctoTech91]

Very interesting topic!

[mikeys]

JBC might be a bit overkill, Dave used an 888 for years before he got his JCB and managed fine. I bought an 888D from an authorised reseller in the UK and it's really quite good.

[stj]

it depends what your doing.
i'v worked on ATX power supplies where i really wish i had the 250w JBC!! 

[Aviator X]

I'm going to try a couple of different soldering irons in the next few months. The Sywon K601 and the TS100.