IntroGreetings! I'm a total noob with
magic electronics, so allow me to apologize in advance for the inevitable ineptitude you're going to be exposed to. I'll try and structure the post as best I can.
I'm trying to fix one of those cheap wall wart PSUs. I know it makes no sense economically, but I thought it would be a good learning opportunity - even if I screw up and make everything worse, it's not a big financial loss. So it's not really an important problem, feel free to skip this one.
Description of the deviceIt's supposed to be a 12V 2A supply with your standard barrel jack. Nothing fancy about it. I think it originally came with an external HDD enclosure. Of course, no schematics. At least none that I could find.
SymptomsI was using it to power one of those breadboard supplies that can give you either 5V or 3V. While fiddling on the board, I noticed a crackling noise inside the switch every time I turned it off or on. Eventually the breadboard module wouldn't turn on at all anymore and the switch was dead. I checked the 12V PSU with my multimeter and it read about 24V.
I unplugged it from the outlet and let it just sit there for a while. After plugging it back in, it was at 18V, slowly rising at a rate of about 10 mV/s. Unplugging it again, waiting, plugging it back in, and now it read 16,5V. Again, slowly climbing.
InsideI opened it up and did a visual inspection. First thing I noticed was that one of the secondary side electrolytic caps had a bulged top. But I think this is actually another symptom, not the cause. Why would a smoothing cap cause the voltage to rise? And the caps were rated at 16V, so if the secondary actually did go up to over 24V, I can understand why those caps wouldn't be happy. I replaced both of them with 25V rated caps anyway, just to be safe.
The only other thing I noticed was a blackened resistor at the bottom of the PCB, surrounded by soot. It hadn't turned into charcoal yet and measured at 460Ω. But I have no idea what it was supposed to be because the writing was gone. The resistor connects on one end to the positive output and on the other end to the optocoupler. I presume it's a current limiter, so 300-500Ω seem to be in the ballpark with a 12V rail.
After the gears had turned for an embarrassingly long time, I thought: Ok, if the resistor changes value as power is going through it (i.e. heating up), and it's this resistor that is providing feedback for the voltage regulation, that would explain why the output voltage was off in the first place and also slowly changing over time.
Since I had no idea about the correct value, I put in a 470Ω resistor. And the output was about 16V. Then I switched to 330Ω, and the voltage went to 12.5V.
So all is well? Not really. This time, the voltage seems to slightly decrease over time (not as fast as before). And the resistor got really hot. When it became too painful to touch, I turned off the power.
Conclusions and questionsHere's my thinking:
- The problem is probably on the secondary side. After all, that's where the damage was. Also, the supply turns on all right and I get output.
- The caps are just an unfortunate victim of the actual problem.
- The resistor likely also wasn't the cause and it yet another victim. Something drew too much current through it, so it got grilled.
But I'm not sure where to go next with my diagnosis.
- An obvious suspect would be the optocoupler. It is on the same circuit as the resistor, after all. But how likely is that? Shouldn't those things be pretty reliable? Anyway, in diode mode, I measured a 0.989V drop in one direction and open line in the other. And yes, that's out-of-circuit. Not sure if it's normal though. I expected some kind of LED inside, and they usually have a higher drop. But I don't have any experience with optocouplers. It says "B1646" on it, but a Google search didn't yield anything of interest. I looked at some data sheets for other optocouplers, and they all had forward voltages in the expected range (1.2V or higher). And I think I can see how a lower voltage drop might result in a higher current draw by the coupler, creating heat in the resistor. I hear those LED thingies are not linear with their voltage vs. current.
Even if the optocoupler is faulty, what to replace it with? Is this one of those things where you're probably fine with any replacement that meets some basics (e.g. voltage rating)? Or is it some finely tuned, hand-picked part where the universe will explode if any one of 50 different specs is off by a pico-percent? What should I be looking out for?
- Another potential issue is the schottky diode. It's an SB5100, and according to all the data sheets I could find, it should have a voltage drop of about 0.6V. But I measure 0.27V (and open line in the other direction, so it's not shorted). The only thing I have on hand as a replacement would be an SR5150. But they have a similarly low voltage drop, so would that even work? Can the lower drop create too much strain on the other components?
- Or is there anything else that could be at fault here? I probed around a little for shorts but couldn't find any. And there's not much stuff left on the secondary side. A couple of ceramic caps (no shorts), an inductor, and a voltage reference (TL431A). On the latter, I get a 0.6V drop between cathode and anode (and OL backwards), which seems reasonable to me, but with my limited understanding, I'm not exactly sure what I should measure from the ref pin to the two others. The data sheet did not enlighten me in that regard.
I'm now at the point where I might have to order parts or start rummaging for salvage, so I figure I'd double-check with you guys first. Thanks to everyone who made it this far!