Chinese solder wire brands?

[kalel]

I'm curious to some Chinese brand (or tried) solder wire that performs well.

I know that both defined weight and quality of some solder wire described on Aliexpress and eBay can vary.

However, there might be quality solder wire brands in China. Do you know of any? Or have you been able to buy solder that works well?

Of course, I know that branded solder purchased from local electronics stores is a much safer bet (and it just works), but there might have been someone who had purchased solder wire from China and is happy with the results.

[CopperCone]

roll the dice

[sleemanj]

While anything from China is a gamble, I have no complaints about "Best" brand solder, 0.4mm and 2.25% flux. I've used plenty of Chinese solder, and this is the best one I've stumbled across.



I bought mine from Taobao, but it's sold on Aliexpress etc as well, but again, as with anything from China, you never know what you're gonna get.

[kalel]

Yes, you never know what you're going to get, that's why the question. If someone has used a specific type and it seems to work well, you at least have better odds than picking one randomly. With branded wire, you can go by ingredients and you shouldn't worry about the brand itself. In this case, the best way to choose is by experience.

[nanofrog]

Another member created an entire thread, Quick dirt-cheap ebay solder comparison that might be of some interest. Given the results and comments in other threads regarding what solder to get, it just seems both financially foolish and rather aggravating to use the Chinese stuff available on eBay, Aliexpress, DX, ...

If you're after something specific or good price - performance in a particular region/market, someone here would be able to point you in the right direction.

[electronicsdude]

Where can one actually get good solder? Is there a list?

[nanofrog]

Where can one actually get good solder? Is there a list?

Plenty of threads on this.

I posted a link for a particular roll of MG Chemicals 63/37 in the code thread (TEquipment carries it). It's good stuff and will make very nice joints. I'd also suggest getting some additional liquid and/or gel flux (the latter is more commonly used for SMD IC's).

TEquipment carries MG Chemicals 835 in a hobbyist friendly sized bottle. It's the liquid version of what's in the linked solder wire, and is much less expensive than buying disposable pens. There are numerous inexpensive dispensing methods you can use (dip a small brush in a small container, or refillable versions such as a nail polish bottle w/ brush in cap, brush pen, needle bottle, or a syringe).

For flux paste, TEquipment carries MG Chemicals 8441-10ML no-clean paste.

They also carry MG Chemicals 425-NS No-Clean Super Wick if you need desolder wick/braid as well.

[matseng]

All of these are just horrible.  But the 63/40 alloy is kinda funny - it must be some kinda overdrive turbo solder with 103% metal, but still solders like crap. ;-)

[kalel]

It's definitely good to know these things.

Has anyone experienced the "mechanic" brand? They have Sn42Bi58 as well as leaded 63/37 (possibly other formulations too). It costs a bit more than the cheapest ones.



Also, the list of ingredients is more filled out than some Chinese brands (that say e.g. 2% of something, but not what). To be fair, I don't even understand all of the data, mostly the CI(or L) and expansion.

[nanofrog]

It's definitely good to know these things.

Has anyone experienced the "mechanic" brand? They have Sn42Bi58 as well as leaded 63/37 (possibly other formulations too). It costs a bit more than the cheapest ones.

Also, the list of ingredients is more filled out than some Chinese brands (that say e.g. 2% of something, but not what).

When I think of Mechanic brand, I think of solder paste, not wire.

FWIW, incomplete content specs like what you describe drives me nuts. This is where sticking with a well known brand is really useful IME, as they actually provide complete information. 

[kalel]

When I think of Mechanic brand, I think of solder paste, not wire.

Is the solder paste good? That doesn't have to mean anything about the wire, but could say something about the brand.

[nanofrog]

When I think of Mechanic brand, I think of solder paste, not wire.

Is the solder paste good? That doesn't have to mean anything about the wire, but could say something about the brand.

Meh, not so great.

When it comes to consumables, stick to known brands and purchase them from distributors. Far less expensive in the long run, and you skip all the aggravation associated with using products that don't perform properly.

[Bud]

I would not touch with a 10 feet barge pole anything that involves Chinese chemicals. Guys using it - good luck with your breathing .

[amyk]

While anything from China is a gamble, I have no complaints about "Best" brand solder, 0.4mm and 2.25% flux. I've used plenty of Chinese solder, and this is the best one I've stumbled across.

You mean "this is the Best one I've stumbled across"?

Their slogan should be "Best -- when Goot just isn't Goot enough."

[electronicsdude]

Where can one actually get good solder? Is there a list?

Plenty of threads on this.

I posted a link for a particular roll of MG Chemicals 63/37 in the code thread (TEquipment carries it). It's good stuff and will make very nice joints. I'd also suggest getting some additional liquid and/or gel flux (the latter is more commonly used for SMD IC's).

TEquipment carries MG Chemicals 835 in a hobbyist friendly sized bottle. It's the liquid version of what's in the linked solder wire, and is much less expensive than buying disposable pens. There are numerous inexpensive dispensing methods you can use (dip a small brush in a small container, or refillable versions such as a nail polish bottle w/ brush in cap, brush pen, needle bottle, or a syringe).

For flux paste, TEquipment carries MG Chemicals 8441-10ML no-clean paste.

They also carry MG Chemicals 425-NS No-Clean Super Wick if you need desolder wick/braid as well.

Hey, thanks for the informative reply, I'm probably getting everything you recommended.. What is the difference between the flux paste and the rosin bottle?  Also, the solder wire you recommended is 0.025 inch or 0.6mm, is that too thick? Dave recommended wire that is thinner than 0.2 inch. I found this more affordable wick, https://www.tequipment.net/ElencoSW-3.html?OrderItemId=5238804 , is this any good? Seems to have good reviews.

[nanofrog]

Hey, thanks for the informative reply, I'm probably getting everything you recommended.. What is the difference between the flux paste and the rosin bottle?  Also, the solder wire you recommended is 0.025 inch or 0.6mm, is that too thick? Dave recommended wire that is thinner than 0.2 inch. I found this more affordable wick, https://www.tequipment.net/ElencoSW-3.html?OrderItemId=5238804 , is this any good? Seems to have good reviews.

In regard to the fluxes, paste is just that; a paste (think similar to petroleum jelly/petrolatum in terms of viscosity), while the contents in the bottle is a liquid. Personally, I find I use the liquid more frequently than gel/paste flux given past experience with disposable pens and better precision dispensing it (I use a brush pen).

Wire size is really up to you; for general purpose, .032", .025", or .020" work very well (personal preference comes into play here as well). Do keep in mind, that if you're doing mostly PTH, the larger diameters will work better as you don't have to feed as much length into the joint, allowing you to make them quicker. The finer you go for the same size & type of joint, you'll have to feed in more wire which can cause you to keep the heat on longer to form a proper joint (dwell time).

As you didn't indicate what you'll be doing the most of between PTH and SMD (suspect this will be fluid as you progress), the .025" works best as a general purpose size IME so you don't have to keep multiple sizes on hand (you may find it necessary at some point in the future). Now if you know you'll be doing more SMD than PTH, then I'd suggest going ahead and getting the .020" instead.

I've never used the Elenco wick (rebranded), so I can't really comment. But I prefer to buy from companies that actually manufacture their products, hence Chemtronics or other quality brands. MG Chemicals is also an actual manufacturer. You can toss one in the order as well to try, assuming availability is decent for your location.

There are some decent solder and wick manufacturers in Taiwan, but I don't know the brands. Genuine Goot is good stuff (Japanese), but is highly counterfeited, so I wouldn't buy it anywhere other than from Japan if there's no distributor for Singapore.

[Kilo Tango]

MultiCore 60/40 

Sorry I am slightly biased having used it  for for a long while..........

As far as lead free, I am having good results with Sn100C, which is tin-copper-nickel + germanium. It flows almost as well as 60/40, but you need an extra 40-60 degrees above 60/40. It has a plastic phase between liquid and solid so is better for bridging things and reinforcing joints like flat blade DC power connectors.

Ken

[Monkeh]

MultiCore 60/40 

Sorry I am slightly biased having used it  for for a long while..........

Not 63/37? Heretic. 60/40 is an unsolderable dumpster fire. Everyone knows that.

Meanwhile, back in the real world..

[Electro Detective]

I would not touch with a 10 feet barge pole anything that involves Chinese chemicals.

Guys using it - good luck with your breathing .

End of story!   

If I ever contemplated or 'encouraged' to being THAT cheap, I would rather give away electronics/repair first,

rather than risk solder joint integrity, unpaid rework BS, tip wear/reactions, and breathing in nuke/waste dump grade fumes


Get the good stuff       cheap out on the rest if you must   

[kalel]

I have no doubt that there is great branded stuff out there (that is the benchmark), or that it can produce nice shiny joints, but I'm curious about usable/decent quality solder from China. Some of the bad stuff mentioned here and in the other linked thread is almost unusable, but some usable - while perhaps not great - stuff was mentioned as well.

[Kilo Tango]

MultiCore 60/40 

Sorry I am slightly biased having used it  for for a long while..........

Not 63/37? Heretic. 60/40 is an unsolderable dumpster fire. Everyone knows that.

Meanwhile, back in the real world..

Aw come on, what a few % of lead between friends. 

Ken

Its the plastic phase that does it 

[kalel]

I've yet to try 63/37 so I have no idea how it feels versus some (normal brand) 60/40. This is way out of topic, but is it really easier to use for beginners?

[kalel]

I've yet to try 63/37 so I have no idea how it feels versus some (normal brand) 60/40. This is way out of topic, but is it really easier to use for beginners?

63/37 is eutectic, and theoretically should yield better solder joint performance. However, due to the lack of plastic phase, it may not be as easy to use as 60/40 in hand soldering.
Of course, easy or not is relative, not absolute. I solder with SAC305 easily, and it's considered harder to use than both 63/37 and 60/40.

I heard it often recommended to beginners (and to everyone as well) due to those properties. I know that the only real way to tell is to try multiple types and see what works best. I do occasional, very, very basic DIY and small kits, and some mistakes or imperfect joints are allowed and even expected.

[Canis Dirus Leidy]

Add five kopecks: review (not my) of Chinese "blue Kaina" soldier and comparsion with "shit cheap noname solder from Aliexpress" and "tape of unknown solder". In Russian, but photos are clear without translation.

P.S. Warning! Heavy animated GIFs.

[David Hess]

I've yet to try 63/37 so I have no idea how it feels versus some (normal brand) 60/40. This is way out of topic, but is it really easier to use for beginners?

63/37 is eutectic, and theoretically should yield better solder joint performance. However, due to the lack of plastic phase, it may not be as easy to use as 60/40 in hand soldering.
Of course, easy or not is relative, not absolute. I solder with SAC305 easily, and it's considered harder to use than both 63/37 and 60/40.

I have used a lot of both and never noticed a practical difference.  Sn60Pb40 is slightly less expensive.  I prefer Sn63Pb37 but have never turned down NOS Sn60Pb40 if it was cheap.  Sn62Pb36Ag2 is stronger but costs significantly more and actually seems to be more difficult to use.