Just got my "new" multimeter ... the family become larger ..

[Kiriakos-GR]

I warned you.  

It was not a strong one ...      

Just payed for the 8050A ... before 10 minutes,
I did not got it cheaply ( €81.72 EUR ), but its not damaged , its calibrated , and the seller has an 100% feedback.
Looks a bit dusty in the photo , but I will repair this damage..  

[saturation]

The LED conversion is a great find.  I would easily do the same, the rock solid clarity of LED, not to mention easier to drive 8 segments compared to an oscillator driven LCD.

That is a fantastic cleaning job K.  What do you use as a solvent?

I have one link to share   about LED display on the 8050A    

http://www.xs4all.nl/~lous/fluke/Fluke8050Asite.html

And I must had lost my mind , because I am now talking with some one ,
so to get also and one  8050A .   4 1/2   digits   

Only the 8050A -01 ( with battery option ) can be easily converted to operate 110v or 220V .
So I am waiting to find out this detail.


.

I did not took pictures of the next step ...
called as  " removing any contamination "  (main cabinet) and  "removing scratches "  from the stand it self ..

I had wash out everything , three times ( hard brash - soft sponge )  ..   

And now its drying , for first inspection.

I always do that, if an item that I buy on ebay , was at an unknown environment . 
I am a smoker , so I care less about contamination from nicotine ,
but I worry most for all the rest factors.

At industrial environment , even the lubrication oil that is used for some tasks ,
its totally toxic ..   oil spots  travels  from hands to the exterior of some devices ,
the devices  travel for repairs ,  and the oil travels from the device at the hands of the technician,
and he transfers the contamination , at everything he touches =  tools like multimeters .. 

The Tip of preferring to  get on Ebay , shinny clean  and in good condition instruments,
its a sign of less or none contamination , from industrial chemicals .


My baby drys out 


 

[Kiriakos-GR]

That is a fantastic cleaning job K.  What do you use as a solvent?

There is no just a product behind it.
Its an process .
First I remove any stickers with pure alcohol .
With Brasso ... I remove  any contamination , nicotine - yellowish spots .
Them wash them with common shampoo " Glass and dishes " and a very hard plastic brush.

After the first inspection ,  if its clean , I go further ...

Like erasing all scratches with 800 grade sand paper ,
and restore the shinny look with the Herapol cream,
that I had write a special topic about.

I managed to restore completely , the face panels and the black stand , both looks as new and shinny.

Lots of effort took me to clean the inner banana contacts, lots of contact spray and sticks with cotton end.
Any particle of dust and any sign of oxidation got removed from those banana contacts,
now they have an mirror finish look.

I have passion with restorations ..      

  

[saturation]

Amazingly good work.  Passion is everything!  Photos are worth more than 1000 words.

You could make a business restoring old devices to like new, both electrically and cosmetically.

That is a fantastic cleaning job K.  What do you use as a solvent?

There is no just a product behind it.
Its an process .
First I remove any stickers with pure alcohol .
With Brasso ... I remove  any contamination , nicotine - yellowish spots .
Them wash them with common shampoo " Glass and dishes " and a very hard plastic brush.

After the first inspection ,  if its clean , I go further ...

Like erasing all scratches with 800 grade sand paper ,
and restore the shinny look with the Herapol cream,
that I had write a special topic about.

I managed to restore completely , the face panels and the black stand , both looks as new and shinny.

Lots of effort took me to clean the inner banana contacts, lots of contact spray and sticks with cotton end.
Any particle of dust and any sign of oxidation got removed from those banana contacts,
now they have an mirror finish look.

I have passion with restorations ..       

   

[Kiriakos-GR]

The seller that I got the meter looks to use the same picture in all the auctions.

So I demanded to see the picture of the DMM  that I will receive ( he has lots of them ) .

So here it is ... the  DMM  of  Kiriakos      

Cleaning - mapping  etc etc .. like the other one .  
It will shipped at 6 of July ,  I fall on the American holiday 4 of July.  

Has an small bump at top right, but I will survive ,
all the rest looks at top condition , the display , switches, cabinet .

[Kiriakos-GR]

Amazingly good work.  Passion is everything!  Photos are worth more than 1000 words.

You could make a business restoring old devices to like new, both electrically and cosmetically.

Its not an bad idea.   
My only enemy are the shipping costs .

[saturation]

You could sell it locally within Greece, or wherever shipping will not impact your costs too much. 

Amazingly good work.  Passion is everything!  Photos are worth more than 1000 words.

You could make a business restoring old devices to like new, both electrically and cosmetically.

Its not an bad idea.   
My only enemy are the shipping costs .

[Kiriakos-GR]

More good news ,  the seller that I got the 8050A , find for me one spare LCD for the 801X meters,
20$  extra , but at list , all three meters will be alive and kicking ..    

( got as gift after request , one set of 801X DMM  fuses ...  one Fluke 3A 600V Fuse ,
and one glass type with one small resistor in it .. )

So, no more Fluke meters for me , I got full ..    

87V  plus three bench top , all colors and shapes .. 

[Kiriakos-GR]

And one interesting  picture of the old big boys " Fluke 850X "

Check out those modules .. thats an true complicate device,
my DMM's looks like toys in front of it , but i prefer it that way ,
because I can play with them .. 



.

[Kiriakos-GR]

Fluke bench top Summarizing ...     

1) Got one 8012A  from UK ( Made in Holland) .. came with broken LCD -->
Did not found any LCD  got another meter ( blindly about condition) I needed just the LCD.

2) Got the 8010A from USA , " Operating - not fully tested "  ,  I got happy , found my LCD and one secondary parts source .

3) Got one 8050A , I liked to have an second meter with 4 + 1 / 2 Display ,
Got one working tested and all , before its dispatches , I got and one LCD display from the same seller,
for the 801XA bench meters , they use the same.

4) The 8050A dispatched from USA three days ago, with the extra LCD on the box ,
my feeling was that I got the 8010A with no reason , and one God knows what will turn to be as condition.

5) Today arrived the  8010A ,  it has one damn fresh look , totally clean ( no markings - stickers) ,
 totally un-smoked ,  very shiny , not even effected by sun rays ( yellowish look ) + perfect LCD .
Date on PCB 1983  ...   

I did complete testing , all  functions ..   

Enjoy the view , its amazing ..



. 

[Kiriakos-GR]

Photo wave No2 ...


.

[Kiriakos-GR]

My current thoughts ..  

1) If the 8050A is that good as that ( 8010A condition ), I will pee my self from happiness..  

2) I will pay few $$ to get one small  220/110 transformer ,
and i will install it internally , on the 8010A ( there is lots of space ) ,
so to feel happy in it new Euro-Home.

3) In a week time , I will have all of them on display  

[saturation]

Old good brands were made to last.  Good job restoring them!    I would trust it more than cheap Chinese stuff  .  But I would be wary about using it on mains voltage  

My current thoughts ..  

1) If the 8050A is that good as that ( 8010A condition ), I will pee my self from happiness..  

2) I will pay few $$ to get one small  220/110 transformer ,
and i will install it internally , on the 8010A ( there is lots of space ) ,
so to feel happy in it new Euro-Home.

3) In a week time , I will have all of them on display  

[Kiriakos-GR]

Step down solution on the way ..  

All those Bench top , uses one inner transformer  that has an output of 8.2AC volts .

I searched the local market to find one step-down transformer 2-4W ,
but I had no luck ... find this one at easy ,
and now all that it needs, are to be parked  at the parking spot .  

All  801X A  with out the " inner battery option " , have this space free .. ( picture )
(actually this is the 8012A , but all this boards look alike .. )  
( I will do this job in few minutes from now )  

.

[Kiriakos-GR]

Job well done ..     

Well I had a bit more trouble than the expected ,
but it was due a mechanical issue ..   

I used dual side tape between transformer & PCB .
Plus one aluminum " strip connector "  ( its aluminum from car parts )
Plus soft insulators at the corners ( we call the as " mika "  in Greek )

I did the wiring , and added one Fuse holder between the transformers ( 1A )  , at this version of the meter , the PCB lines was there but not the Fuse holder.

And after some primary testing , I started it up .. 100% success . 

Fluke advices to order from them an compatible transformer depending the region,
well I do not think that it costs  4-6$  or Euros   


Pictures ..



.

   

[Kiriakos-GR]

Photo wave No2 ...

...

[saturation]

Good job!  That 'free space' on the PC board was almost custom made for you adaptation.  A very elegant solution using that foreigntravel converter.  I see you had a minor problem with the hose clamp clearance with the casing.  A very strong tie down that, I personally would use just zip ties but a hose clamp will last forever.  You assembled meter and workspace are very clean, my complements, I am never so neat.

[Kiriakos-GR]

Good job!  That 'free space' on the PC board was almost custom made for you adaptation.  A very elegant solution using that foreign travel converter.  

Thanks friend , yes it does look like an successfully made " cocktail " 
But I would not be satisfied, with anything less , than this ...   

Usually at the " Free space " goes the  battery compartment .

The 8012A its a European , no  " Mains"  cooking needed.
The 8010A  become an Euro- citizen.
Now I am expecting  the 8050A , that by the schematic , are easily convertible.
If I fall on an changed PCB design = I will use the solution of the 8010A .

Either way ... I am unstoppable  ..              its a Win Win, no matter what.

[Mechatrommer]

put a fan! to cool down the transformer, so it wont burnt prematurely! just a suggestion

[Kiriakos-GR]

I see you had a minor problem with the hose clamp clearance with the casing.  A very strong tie down that, I personally would use just zip ties but a hose clamp will last forever.

I hate the zip ties solution on transformers ...  Many told me the same and in the Greek forum
about" zip ties ", that I posted the pictures , and the all project.

Basically , this meter when is set on the box , the PCB board are upside down .
About zip ties ... I do not trust them for such application.
No I am not afraid about heat issues , the meter needs 2W transformer ,
and the one that I got are marketed as 50W .. = Ice cube    

"hose clamp"  Thats an aluminum one for air filters of cars,
its soft and it can take thermal variations , with no issues.
 

  You assembled meter and workspace are very clean, my complements, I am never so neat.

I just push everything a bit further      cheated

[domm123]

Hi, I'm getting myself a broken 8050a to get it fix myself

I need to make is to change the transformer in the multimeter so that it can be use in my country.
The multimeter is rated at 110v, and my country is using the 220v standard.

Rather then adding a 220v to 110v transformer, i would like to change the whole power transformer of the unit.

Can i check with you, whether the transformer in the multimeter is multi tapped or single tapped(single or multiple voltages on secondary)?
And what is the voltage output from the transformer?


Thanks

[Kiriakos-GR]

Well for start I have not receive yet the 8050A  ..  

By studying this specific model of meters , the most easily convertable, are the 01 versions,
with the batteries .
Thats why I selected " insisted  to get "  the specific version .

Fluke uses two types of transformers , isolated to specific voltage & multi-voltage.
The first one are totally black (covered with plastic like sealed box) and are a bit smaller .
The second are larger has an metallic look , and you can see even the coils , that are covered by one clear plastic cover.


If you tell me more about the specification - version of your meter , I will tell you more .  

Right now I have find out that I need also to replace at the American model,
the oscillator crystal too,  the one that does 50 or 60 Hz ...

Every meter with  multi-voltage ability of those , comes also with double crystals ,
and has internally one micro switch.

All that I need to find are one Crystal at 3.200 Khz , and I will be totally in specs.

But funny enough , even with the 60Hz Crystal , the meter reads accurately AC Mains !!
    

[alm]

Sure, the crystal frequency has no effect on accuracy, just on NMRR (rejection of mains interference on top of a DC signal in DC/ohms mode). Try feeding it something like a 100mV DC + 1Vpp 60Hz sine in DCV mode, and notice how the voltage is pretty stable. Change the frequency of the sine to 50Hz, and notice how the DCV measurement will jump around much more. This is because the integration period is supposed to be synchronized to the mains frequency, which cancels out the mains signals. If the mains frequency is different than expected, this is a lot less effective.

[DJPhil]

Just a quick off topic, the little guy in the last picture with the 220 mustache made me smile. Is it original Kiriakos artwork?

[Kiriakos-GR]

NMRR (rejection of mains interference on top of a DC signal in DC/ohms mode).

So in simple Greek     I have one small downsize (effect)  only at True-RMS measurements on DC.
Sounds as no Biggy  

I tried to locate the 2300 kHz crystal locally with No luck ..  so far ..
If some one haves one , just contact me by PM ..  

Just a quick off topic, the little guy in the last picture with the 220 mustache made me smile. Is it original Kiriakos artwork?

Well, I had in mind one smiling female Mains plug ..