Do you pay for reactive power?
Good question. As a home consumer I do not pay for reactive power as such ... but (1) there will be some losses in the wiring, maybe a watt or a few watts, that I will pay for and (2) we pay for "capacity" which means the maximum power you can draw at any one time. But this is not measured in terms of real power, it is just a circuit breaker that trips by current. So suppose I have 10 A allowance, if I have some parasitic reactive power connected then I am decreasing the max power I can pull at any one time. And they charge dearly for this power allowance capacity part because it means you pay even if you don't consume at all. You have a second home where you only go a few weekends a year? You will still be paying through the nose. The crooks in government have us well screwed.
I do not think there is any excuse for a device that is turned off to be using current like that. I have not determined if it is capacitive or reactive. I just see the current in a meter.
So I keep that induction plate disconnected most of the time and hardly use it. I also have a theory that it is not good to apply too much power to a pot because it will deform. The induction plate has a max setting of 1600 W but I would not like to use it above say, half that but I would want it continuous, not pulsing.
Regarding temperature response time:
Well thats a huge problem to me, they heat up, temperature spikes too high, the element shuts off then it slowly goes down again. If I turn the temperature from 10 to 1, I want the temperature to go down as fast as reasonably possible to avoid burning something, and never overshoot.
Gas I think has the fastest response time. OTOH, I don't have a problem with electric plates that have a large mass and longer response time. I just work around it. If I need to lower heat I just take the pot or pan off the plate. Not a problem at all. In fact, I much prefer the longer response time of a hot plate than the bursts of the inductive plate because I can work around the first but there's nothing I can do about the bursts.
Well, now that I think about it, I do have a steel plate, about 30 cm square and 1 cm thick, that I can put on the induction stove and it just heats up and maintains temperature. But I have hardly used it because I just use the resistive plates and I am not sure if having a very hot plate right on the induction heater might be bad for it. I just avoid using it altogether.
Triac would be nice, I don't understand why its not used or why it took so long (if modern cooktops are actually using it now).
Well, yes and no. Having a single high power resistive element switching on and off seems like a bad design and you can easily set it to max and then control with a triac. But switching high loads with a triac for power control has bad power factor and introduces lots of noise in the line unless you filter really well. The best solution is what I have always seen here which is a plate with three resistive elements which can be switched in different configurations. I think pretty much all cooktops I have seen around here are like that.