Author Topic: Old car electrics  (Read 1514 times)

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Online mawyattTopic starter

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Old car electrics
« on: September 27, 2026, 02:07:13 pm »
Our 1997 Porsche 911 993 has the old style electrics which use incandescent bulbs and relays. We had very little problems with these old electrics, other than the usual bulb replacement, sticking turn signal relay, and a sticking horn switch. The old style analog gauges and warning indicators all work and are easy to interpret while driving. This was the last of the old hand built 911s with air cooled boxer engines. Our newer 2007 911 997 turbo has some of the modern electrics and such (not hand built), and the displays are already failing along with a glitchy sound system (sometimes has a loud shriek upon starting with a low battery in cold weather). Both the displays in front of the steering wheel and the main center console display which hosts the navigation feature are having issues, and the cost to replace is ridiculous.

Being old I've always preferred the old type simplistic car electrics, well except for the infamous Lucus, and those were much easier to repair and maintain. Sort of like an old Tek CRO vs a new DSO!!

Sure the newer cars drive better, have more features, and safer, but still prefer the old style instrument panels with analog gauges and indicators rather that the modern displays. To the extreme the family CEO just got a new Tesla Y and that is completely overwhelming and even drives itself!! She also commissioned us to install the 220VAC charger in the garage, we still prefer a trip to the gas station at the corner!!

The Tesla replaced the older 911 993, and now we have to learn to use all this touch screen stuff to do anything!!

Sadly, saying goodby to the old style electrics and analog instrument gauges/panels, the last of the breed :-[

Anyway, you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but sometimes the old dog must learn  ???

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Online SteveThackery

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2026, 04:15:20 pm »
This is the all-analogue dashboard in my 1953 Riley (the speedo is off to the right). Note how the oil pressure and water temperature read from right to left, whereas the fuel gauge reads left to right. 😄

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Online mawyattTopic starter

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2026, 06:00:33 pm »
Wonder why Riley had Oil pressure and Temp gauge operate reverse direction? Did the Riley have negative battery "hot" and use Lucus for electrics?

You can always spot someone that isn't familiar with Porsche 911s, they can't find the key slot!! It's on the left of the steering column, not the right as usual. The reason was way back in Le Mans, the driver had to run across the track, engage clutch and gear shift while releasing the hand brake, then start the engine. Porsche figured everything was done with the right hand, while the left hand did nothing, so they moved the key slot to the left of the steering column to save a couple seconds at the start.

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Offline Benta

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2026, 07:21:58 pm »
Wonder why Riley had Oil pressure and Temp gauge operate reverse direction? Did the Riley have negative battery "hot" and use Lucus for electrics?

It's a design feature. The instruments all work in the same direction, but the two lower ones are turned 180 degrees for appearance. That's the Brits, I guess.

But I share the OP's sentiment, which is why my wife and I love our 1st generation Miata/MX-5 (the one with the pop-up headlights). Simplicity itself, but up-to-date engine management etc. and fantastic handling. Great fun!
 
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Online SteveThackery

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2026, 08:11:19 pm »
The instruments all work in the same direction, but the two lower ones are turned 180 degrees for appearance. That's the Brits, I guess.

Exactly. The three instruments all rotate the needle anticlockwise to show a higher value, which strongly suggests they were designed to have the needle pivoted at the top. Riley apparently decided to turn the two bottom instruments the other way up for visual balance, requiring new dials to be printed, and requiring a left-to-right scale. Weird.
 

Online SteveThackery

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2026, 08:33:26 pm »
Did the Riley have negative battery "hot" and use Lucus for electrics?

The Riley was positive earth, in common with all British cars from that era.

As far as I can tell this arises from a remarkable misunderstanding that lasted for decades. The explanations I have unearthed say the same thing: a positive earth means the HT spark will be negative with respect to earth, and that makes the spark plugs last longer because the erosion takes place on the outer electrode. Similarly the erosion takes place on the distributor cap electrodes rather than the rotor arm.

The remarkable thing is the assumption that a positive earth is required if you want the HT voltage to be negative. This is simply wrong: you can have a negative HT voltage and a negative earth; you simply need the HT voltage to be a lot more negative than the battery voltage. Assuming a 20kV spark from the coil:

Positive earth: total HT voltage is 20kV + 12V = 20,012V

Negative earth: total HT voltage is 20kV - 12V = 19,988V

Clearly the earth polarity makes no significant difference to the spark voltage, and the spark can be of either polarity, regardless of the earth polarity.

I find it remarkable that nobody challenged the (mistaken) received wisdom for - presumably - decades.

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Online bdunham7

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2026, 09:11:47 pm »
Positive earth: total HT voltage is 20kV + 12V = 20,012V

Negative earth: total HT voltage is 20kV - 12V = 19,988V

The primary voltage is usually several hundred volts, not 12V.  So 20.3kV vs 19.7 or something like that.  That's assuming you have a typical ignition coil, if you have a double-ended one like on a two-cylinder motorcycle, then one HT is + and the other -.  And the voltages are ???

About your Riley, does that have a dual-underhead-camshaft arrangement like a Lea-Francis? 
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Online tom66

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2026, 09:45:47 pm »
I think the worst time for car electrics was late 90's, early 00's - the car makers were just starting to use these more complex systems, including CAN bus, "microprocessor controlled displays" etc.  Automotive reliability standards like AEC-Q100 had only just been introduced and many designs predated it.  Automotive software was not tested to the level it is now. 

I recall my dad had a Mercedes from the 00's, which had given him all manner of difficulties.  I can't say I've ever had too many problems with car electrics.  The odd sensor fault or random glitch but nothing that would ever concern me too much.
 

Online nctnico

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2026, 09:52:34 pm »
Our newer 2007 911 997 turbo has some of the modern electrics and such (not hand built), and the displays are already failing along with a glitchy sound system (sometimes has a loud shriek upon starting with a low battery in cold weather). Both the displays in front of the steering wheel and the main center console display which hosts the navigation feature are having issues, and the cost to replace is ridiculous.
The great thing about being an electronics engineer is that it typically takes a soldering iron and maybe replacing some electrolytics to fix these kind of issues. 2007 is right around the time lead free soldering wasn't fully understood yet. But there are companies who shove boards from instrument clusters through a vapour phase reflow oven and they are as good as new for a fraction of the price.
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Online mawyattTopic starter

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2026, 12:49:26 am »
Our newer 2007 911 997 turbo has some of the modern electrics and such (not hand built), and the displays are already failing along with a glitchy sound system (sometimes has a loud shriek upon starting with a low battery in cold weather). Both the displays in front of the steering wheel and the main center console display which hosts the navigation feature are having issues, and the cost to replace is ridiculous.
The great thing about being an electronics engineer is that it typically takes a soldering iron and maybe replacing some electrolytics to fix these kind of issues. 2007 is right around the time lead free soldering wasn't fully understood yet. But there are companies who shove boards from instrument clusters through a vapour phase reflow oven and they are as good as new for a fraction of the price.

We'll probably attempt to tackle these displays sometime soon, hopefully being able to find a replacement display(s) from a supplier rather than dealer!! The biggest hassle will likely be getting the displays out of the instrument panel....Google should be helpful with this!! We also need to remove the aged 3M stone guard film on the bumper that has seriously degraded and very difficult to remove. Google shows using a steam gun and plastic scraper blade with many hours of labor. Chemicals don't seem to do the trick, it takes many hours of careful scraping with steam, hoping not to damage the underlying paint.

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Offline Brumby

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2026, 01:34:17 am »
Being old I've always preferred the old type simplistic car electrics, well except for the infamous Lucus, and those were much easier to repair and maintain. Sort of like an old Tek CRO vs a new DSO!!

"infamous Lucas" - that was a reputation we all knew back in the day - and I have a roadside repair story...

One evening I was happily driving my Datsun 180B when it suddenly started misfiring all over the place. The Lucas distributor quickly became the focus of my attention - and rightly so.  It turned out that the upper centrifugal advance plate had partially separated from the shaft which carries the rotor button. Whilst the two pieces were "connected" their relative rotational positions were fluid, rather than locked.  The result was that the rotor button rarely lined up correctly with the distributor cap.  The plate and shaft were assembled with a simple press fit and now this had failed.

My roadside repair involved removing this part and twisting the plate around the shaft until it "bit" and felt pretty solid.  I replaced the part, but the cams and index for the rotor button were now somewhat offset and this needed to be addressed if I had any hope of getting the engine running again.  I used nearly every degree of distributor rotation available plus rewiring the sequence of leads on the distributor cap - BUT - I was able to get the engine going!!  After timing the distributor by ear, the car ran perfectly.

I ran like this for two weeks until I started getting nervous, so I picked up a Bosch distributor.
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Offline NiHaoMike

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2026, 02:42:52 am »
The primary voltage is usually several hundred volts, not 12V.  So 20.3kV vs 19.7 or something like that.
In the case of a dual stage design like what Hyundai used over a decade ago, couldn't the polarity of the intermediate voltage be either positive or negative? I'm pretty sure in practice, it would be positive to allow easy low side switching. I can't think of an actual advantage making the intermediate voltage negative.
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Offline Geoff-AU

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #12 on: September 28, 2026, 03:08:40 am »
Our 1997 Porsche 911 993

993 911 is best 911.  They just look perfect.

I think the worst time for car electrics was late 90's, early 00's - the car makers were just starting to use these more complex systems, including CAN bus, "microprocessor controlled displays" etc. 

That's the golden age of Japanese cars.  Reliability is (and was) exceptional.  One of my Nissan Skylines was 15+ years old and had given me no trouble at all until one day the rear-wheel-steering system suddenly went to full deflection, threw a fault code and stayed there.  But aside from trying to kill me that one time, peak Japanese engineering (just change the fluids and everything keeps working).  You could push the engines so much harder than the factory did, it became very common to get 300kW at the rear wheels from unopened engines that rolled off the production line making 180kW at the flywheel.  I have a 2007 Patrol now and they are still revered for their strong drivetrain.  Toyota enthusiasts will have similar stories about that era (JZA80 Supra is legendary).  Nissan didn't get everything perfect though.  A lot of the early GU Patrol ZD30 engines blew up spectacularly.

 

Online bdunham7

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #13 on: September 28, 2026, 03:31:24 am »
In the case of a dual stage design like what Hyundai used over a decade ago, couldn't the polarity of the intermediate voltage be either positive or negative? I'm pretty sure in practice, it would be positive to allow easy low side switching. I can't think of an actual advantage making the intermediate voltage negative.

I'm not familiar with that system.  Is it like CDI?  With CDI the primary is typically isolated so polarity isn't really an issue--you can hook it up however you like.
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Offline kite31

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #14 on: September 28, 2026, 03:36:47 am »
My wife still drives the Lexus IS300 I bought about 23 or so years ago. I still love its compactness and the Swiss watch styled instrument display. It is a pity one of those gauges is manifold vacuum rather than something useful like oil temperature. The 2JZ-GE engine (Supra engine unblown) is proof against anything, including fuel efficiency.
 

Offline NiHaoMike

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #15 on: September 28, 2026, 04:35:53 am »
I'm not familiar with that system.  Is it like CDI?  With CDI the primary is typically isolated so polarity isn't really an issue--you can hook it up however you like.
I don't think it's CDI as the intermediate voltage is more or less a constant supply, but the spark does start during the "forward" mode of the coil. It does have the side effect of making the engine a bit noisier at idle, so it likely does have a substantially higher peak ignition power than a conventional design.
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Online SteveThackery

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2026, 10:32:36 am »
The primary voltage is usually several hundred volts, not 12V.  So 20.3kV vs 19.7 or something like that. 


Fair point - thank you. It's still bizarre that the entire industry believed a basic misunderstanding for decades.

Quote

About your Riley, does that have a dual-underhead-camshaft arrangement like a Lea-Francis?

My car has the Riley 'Big Four' engine - 2.5 litre, 4 cylinder - which does indeed have the double-underhead-camshaft arrangement, allowing for hemispherical combustion chambers and a cross-flow head.

I'm not familiar with Lea-Francis, but - according to Wikipedia - they did offer a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder engine in the '18' and the '2 1/2'. Those models were contemporary with the Riley, so I assume Lea-Francis used the Riley engine?
 

Online Fraser

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2026, 01:23:05 pm »
This thread looks like a good place to tell my tale of woe involving my 2005 Audi A4 1.8T

I had left the A4 unused for around a month and then went to drive it. The dash board showed an ESP fault light. This is indicating that there is a fault detected in the electronic stability program that helps to maintain control of the car when it aquaplanes or enters a spin/4 wheel skid. It is not the same as the ABS or traction control functions that my A4 is also equipped with. These systems are very clever and are important safety features so I should not complain about their presence in my car BUT ………

I plugged in my clever VAGCOM OBD II diagnostics computer and read the fault codes relating to the ESP fault. The stored code indicated that the ABS system that includes the ESP processor, was receiving improbable data from the YAW sensor. That sounded like a simple case of a failed sensor so I was relatively relaxed about the finding….. how wrong I was ! The YAW sensor and ABS computer are BOSCH parts and common across many brands of car, but they have specific programming and configuration for a particular model of car to take account of engine power, brake specifications etc. I contacted Audi for a quote on a new YAW sensor for my model of A4….. the answer was almost £1K including VAT  :scared: My 2005 A4 is not worth much more than that !

I investigated the YAW sensor and availability of used ones from car dismantlers…… there are two significant issues here….

1. The YAW sensor contains VERY fragile motion detection components and must be transported like eggs to avoid damage that could prevent correct operation. If the donor sensor came from a vehicle that had been in an accident, it is considered damaged and not fit for use  :palm: You should source a used sensor from a non accident donor, such as one that suffered a cam belt failure.

2. There are many different versions of the YAW sensor, even within the VAG group of cars. You need the EXACT YAW sensor with the same firmware as the original in order for it to work with the ABS computer. This means you have to locate a YAW sensor that has the same part number and firmware revision marked on it or else it will not work. This was not initially known to me but I found out the hard way.

My Audi A4 was from the first batch of Facelifted models released in January 2005. This should not be an issue, but it was, as we shall see. I did my due diligence and investigated which YAW sensor and firmware was fitted to a 2005 A4 and where it was located in the car. It is buried deep in the central console area on the floor pan. The centre console needs to be dismantled to even see it, let alone remove it. With this in mind, I took the guidance on which YAW sensor was fitted in my car as gospel and started sourcing multiple used sensors from non crashed A4’s in the hope of receiving one intact after being in the post. I intended to carefully test its output after fitting it to make sure it behaved correctly. I bought three of the sensors and awaited their arrival. Once they arrived I began disassembling the car to access the YAW sensor mounts. Upon extracting the original sensor I discovered that it had a different part number on it to that which was supposed to be in my A4. I thought it possible that it was just a case of Audi using the same part but with a different part number. Audi often have parts that are different part numbers yet interchangeable. I fitted one of the used replacement YAW sensors and tested the car. The fault code remained the same same…. Improbable data from YAW sensor. I tried the other two YAW sensors and got the same result. It was head scratching and Google search time. I could find no references to my car having any different YAW sensor to that which I had bought as replacements so I considered the possibility that the YAW sensor wiring had an issue with a poor connection causing CAN data corruption rather than a simple short of open type no communications fault. I tested the loom and connectors  between the ABS computer and the YAW sensor and all seemed fine. I then tested the power supply rail for quality and the 0V connections to the cars shell. All checked out OK. I got a bit desperate then…. I could not locate a YAW sensor in the UK that had the same part number as the one that I found originally fitted. There was one that looked identical and had a slightly earlier part number suffix than the other used units I had bought. I bought a couple to test in the hope that I was up against a firmware revision issue and the earlier unit would work. They did not :( I had exactly the same error as before and this is important to note. All my attempts to fit a replacement YAW sensor resulted in a “Improbable YAW data” fault.

A lot of head scratching and Google searches followed. There is not much information on the BOSCH ABS computer and YAW sensor available to the public but I could determine that it was very important that the ABS computer and YAW sensor had the correct, compatible, firmware loaded in them, so they are a matched pair and can communicate meaningful data. I realised that the problem I was facing was likely that I had yet to find and fit a YAW sensor with the EXACT model and firmware required by my cars ABS computer. Back to AUDI I went and they offered to sell me the YAW sensor that I had already sourced used ! This made no sense at all. I discussed the situation with the dealer and it was suggested that my ABS computer might be the problem. That would cost me £3K for a new part  :scared:

I bought 3 used A4 ABS modules at £15 each to experiment with. They came from scrap Audi A4 models that were 2005 and 2006 model years. I installed and configured the ABS electronics package (computer module) from the 2005 donor as it had the exact same part number and firmware as my original. No dice, the fault remained the same. I tried both the original YAW sensor and one of the original used ones I had bought. No good. I then fitted an ABS electronics package from a 2006 A4, but a lower spec car, and reconfigured it for my cars engine power, brakes etc. Upon test with the original YAW sensor I got the same fault, but when I tried one of the used YAW sensors with the 2006 ABS computer……..all worked correctly ! Whilst this was good news, I really did not want to keep the ABS electronics from an incorrect A4 in my higher performance version of the car as who knows what differences may exist in the firmware settings.

Now that I had a working ABS and ESP system to use as a base line, I dug out my MICSIG Automotive tablet DSO and used its CAN decoder to monitor the data passing from the YAW sensor. With the working sensor I could see the valid data packets heading to the ABS computer. I then installed the original YAW sensor and immediately saw failed data packets coming out of the YAW sensors….. it was producing invalid data, just as the cars OBDII had said ! I now knew that the YAW sensor was the issue and not the original ABS computer. I had to find the exact YAW sensor for my car so an investigation was undertaken. No one could supply me with that YAW sensor for an AUDI A4 because it was apparently never fitted to an A4……..it is for an Audi A6 ! This is why I kept being told I needed a different part number for an A4  :palm:

Very long story short….. my 2005 A4 was the first batch of A4 cars to use the newer BOSCH ABS computer and YAW sensor kit but it was already in use on the A6. Due to supply issues, Audi fitted my car with the ABS module and YAW sensor from their A6 production line. This does not appear to be known in the dealers or spares industry so I kept getting the wrong information when asking about a replacement YAW sensor. The later A4 production used the different part number ABS module and associated later YAW sensor. The later YAW sensor firmware is incompatible with the ABS computer that was fitted to the A6 and my particular A4.

Now the challenge was to find an A6 YAW sensor with the exact part number and firmware revision that I needed…. There were none in the UK, one on eBay in Germany and one on eBay in Lithuania. The previous used, UK sourced, YAW sensors had cost around £10 to £15 as they are common. The 2005 fitment A6 YAW sensor was going to cost around £50 due to the rarity of that particular part number (it appears that this particular YAW sensor was only used for a short period of A6 production). I bought the two available A6 YAW sensors and hoped that one would make it to me intact. They both arrived and I tested them in my A4 with the original ABS computer refitted so the ABS system was returned to my particular cars factory configuration. The sensor was fitted and began talking to the ABS computer….  No faulty packets and all valid data. The ESP fault was cleared and did not return. I tested the second used A6 YAW sensor and that also worked perfectly. I now have a good spare for future insurance. I reassembled my car and took it for various test drives and carried out the ABS-ESP test sequence. This completed without issues. I plotted the YAW sensor data output using VAGCOM both at rest and whilst test driving in circles, straight lines etc. All YAW data was valid and looked correct. The YAW sensor appears to be working perfectly.

So there we have it…. Modern cars with their modern electrical/electronic problems. We know that many modern cars need to have replacement parts “married” to the car when repairing them in order for everything to be happy, but we also have the fun of sourcing parts at reasonable cost that have compatible part numbers and firmware for your particular vehicle. Audi would have apparently fitted a new ABS module and YAW sensor to fix my A4 and that would have cost around £4K (The Official Audi A4 Service Manual says to fit a new YAW sensor when this fault code occurs, and if that does not fix it, a new ABS module should be fitted) £4K is almost twice what my car is worth. Many modern cars go to the scrap yard because of electronic or electrical faults that cannot be repaired at reasonable cost. Sad times indeed and I can see it getting worse with the advent of electric cars with all their various computers and modules that are buried deep inside assemblies that are difficult to access or disassemble. Then you have to source affordable spare parts and that is not always easy.

So my otherwise great condition, low mileage (37K miles) A4 almost ended up being scrap as it cannot obtain its yearly MOT certificate when there is an ABS or ESP fault present. I got lucky, but almost needed to be Sherlock Holmes to work out what was going on and how to fix it !

Hope you enjoyed the story :)

Fraser

Some additional comments……

1. I bought the A4 from new, so no one had modified its build.
2. The dealer confirmed the part that is normally fitted in the 2005 Facelift A4 and the parts catalogue listed only that part. I bought that exact part in the first batch of used YAW sensors I sourced.
3. The second batch of YAW sensors that I sourced had the same part number as the first, but an A suffix instead of a B suffix. These were fitted in the pre 2005 A4 model and I thought my facelifted 2005 A4 might have the older parts still being used in it. It turns out that the YAW sensor with the A suffix is completely different and analogue output as opposed to digital ! It is for the earlier BOSCH ABS computers that had analogue YAW inputs.
4. The YAW sensor fitted in my A4 is the modern type that contains a clever processor based input interpretation system that detects exactly what the vehicle is doing in terms of motion. It is a smart, but expensive bit of kit, and the word “Sensor” does not do it justice. The ABS system cannot be fooled into ignoring the YAW sensor as it is part of a critical safety system for the car.
5. I could not have diagnosed and configured modules in the A4 without having access to VAGCOM, but this is a common situation with modern cars needing software for diagnostics and module configuration.
6. This was the first time that I have used the MICSIG ATO1002 DSO CAN Bus decoder function and I was impressed with its ability to show me that data packets were corrupt on the CAN Bus that serves the ABS computer. It also permits checking for correct CAN Bus voltage levels.

« Last Edit: September 28, 2026, 07:38:52 pm by Fraser »
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Online mawyattTopic starter

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2026, 01:44:59 pm »
993 911 is best 911.  They just look perfect.

Agree, having sellers remorse big time. Should have sold the 2007 997 turbo 911 instead in spite of what the "CEO" wanted!! The 993 is just so special, and the engine is the special split-block, twin plug 3.6L version with dual distributors. Recall Porsche had a video long ago of this engine running upside down!!

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Offline UnijunctionTransistor

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2026, 03:15:24 pm »
 Fraser;
I appreciate your story and appreciate the time and effort you spent solving this problem. An engineering challenge.

However, 99.9% of the car driving public doesn’t have the time or knowledge to tackle such a task, and with the dealership’s repair sticker shock,  these otherwise good vehicles will end up in the junkyard.
And with the cost of new vehicles skyrocketing…..
 
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Offline langwadt

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2026, 04:09:25 pm »
Did the Riley have negative battery "hot" and use Lucus for electrics?

The Riley was positive earth, in common with all British cars from that era.

As far as I can tell this arises from a remarkable misunderstanding that lasted for decades. The explanations I have unearthed say the same thing: a positive earth means the HT spark will be negative with respect to earth, and that makes the spark plugs last longer because the erosion takes place on the outer electrode. Similarly the erosion takes place on the distributor cap electrodes rather than the rotor arm.

seems like they have made up al kinds of explanations, the one I've always heard was that it was to preferable corrode the steel of the car instead of the copper of the wires.

in a way positive chassis might save some wires now, since almost everything is controlled on the low side

 

 

Online bdunham7

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #21 on: September 28, 2026, 04:43:55 pm »
Those models were contemporary with the Riley, so I assume Lea-Francis used the Riley engine?

It was a while back but IIRC it was a 1.5L engine and a pre-WWII model.  We didn't have any Rileys to compare to and at the time we assumed that one or the other had copied its competitor but given how low-volume and derelict the Lea-Francis company was it makes sense that they would simply buy them from Riley.  The main thing of note, other than the interesting design, was how heavy that 1.5L engine was!  Is the "big 4" the same block with a bigger bore or is the whole thing even bigger?
A 3.5 digit 4.5 digit 5 digit 5.5 digit 6.5 digit 7.5 digit DMM is good enough for most people.
 

Online SteveThackery

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Re: Old car electrics
« Reply #22 on: September 28, 2026, 04:56:49 pm »
Is the "big 4" the same block with a bigger bore or is the whole thing even bigger?

The "Big Four" is a different, considerably bigger and even heavier, block. The bore and stroke are 80mm and 120mm (rounded), and unlike the 1.5 all cylinders are surrounded by coolant. The basic architectures are similar, each being double-underhead-camshaft and cross-flow. Both the 1.5 and the 2.5 are considered to be strong engines - blow-ups are extremely rare. They are rebuilt after a high enough mileage, of course, and the usual trick is to convert the bottom end from white metal to modern shells.

The 1.5 - when in the Riley, at least - is considered inadequate to keep up with modern traffic (although some owners would dispute this), which is why I bought the 2.5. Acceleration isn't great (it doesn't feel like 100bhp to me), but it will cruise along at 70mph.
 


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