The board on transistor concept you have is liable to get loose. I don't know how to solve that problem. I recommend copper cable to lead it to a PCB where its terminated to a ring lug mount (its like a bracket soldered to the PCB you screw into with a short jumper).
If you use through hole ring lug mounts, with a hole on the bottom, it MIGHT work if you had trimmed screws and a funky assembly procedure of inserting a washer sideways underneath the ring terminal mount. They would need to be aligned very well.
Now IIRC the miller welder that did this direct2pcb, it had OK screw tension (after 15 years), a bit low, on the PCB they had. But this will depend on your PCB quality (how good the epoxy is, and probobly other factors). I don't like it, they should have used a small wire adapter. That welder did explode on someone for no reason, possibly because one of their dodgy junctions gave up.
If you MUST have the pcb there, its probobly better to use the leaded package, with a hole in the PCB for mounting the part, or a bracket that compresses the part from both sides (better) using two screws
So unless you plan on using cable, go with picture #1, and put holes on the PCB so you can screw down the transistor module. This is not a bad design IMO. The only problem is the transistor might twist and yank on the leads. Optimally you would put notches and spacing between the transistors so you can grip them with a jig or pliers (i.e. duck bill pliers) when tightening so the part does not twist. Its a problem because you only got 1 mounting hole. In the instruction manual I would expect there be a page on how to replace the transistor properly (show pliers being used to restrain it)
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I am curious about how a large eyelet could work for picture #3 to prevent the board from experiencing tension and loosening. This would be special hardware that is staked and soldered to PCB and it would need to be beefy, probobly made from bronze, assembled on a arbor type press and soldered using resistance techniques (lumo)