Personally I have no love for the raspberry's because of their lack of openness.
A big contrast to that, are the Olimex boards which even have full schematics and PCB layout's on github, the newer ones even in KiCad. raspi also is one of the main players keeping progress back with their 32 bit os, when most of the world has moved on to 64 bit systems (Yeah I know, as long as you stat <=4GB or RAM, 64 bit is not really mandatory)
From the little personal experience I have, there seem to be a significant difference between "no brand" uSD cards and "decent" ones. Good quality uSD cards can keep your Linux board running for years. Note that uSD cards optimized for speed is something completely different from optimized for durability. There are some exotic small manufacturers which make uSD cards with extreme durability, but their prices are also exotic.
If you have a look at:
https://wiki.debian.org/Arm64PortSome of the recommendations are the Olimex boards, Odroid-C2, and the Pine64.
Any Linux board will run python3 (Python2 is obsolete now. (Finally)), and almost all will also have Ethernet onboard, so plenty (too much?) choice.
I have some cubie boards myself, and some beaglebones.
The Cubie boards are a bit *&^%$#@! It seems they've never gained enough popularity and momentum to keep on going. The A10 Cubie I have is mostly not supported anymore, so no updates. The Cubie A20 still seems to have support.
Beaglebones are sort of fun. You can just plug in an USB cable, then browse to it with a regular web browser, read the manual, and start programming in their "beagle script".
It was fun to see it "works", but I have no interest in beagle script. Just give me ssh, and GCC. (Although I'm dipping some toes in Python 3 now).
The Odroid boards from Hardkernel seem to be pretty popular. On their site they also have comparison data between uSD and EMMC. I like the Idea of replaceable EMMC modules.
Any board supported by Armbian will probably be fine.
On the mechanical side...
Whether stations work best outside, but outside does not work well with unprotected electronics. Protecting electronics is a mechanical engineering job, not software nor electronics.
One of the few ways to make a reliable enclosure is to use a piece of PVC pipe and glue on an "inspection cap", which has a rubber seal. You could completely seal the other side, but it will probably need wires feed through, and combination of changing relative humidity and air pressure is a tough combination. Your best option is to prevent any pressure differential from building up, while still maintaining an air tight seal. This can be done by using an plastic bag or rubber membrane inside the enclosure. Also, throwing in a bag of desiccant will never hurt and may save your hardware.