my pockets are not that deep,ive ordered what i linked too,just hope they are compatibale?
That is impossible to say, because the ones you bought does not say the chip manufacturer.
The QVL for that motherboard contains very common chips, and in my experience, the Gigabyte motherboards based on AMD760G/780G and SB710 chipsets were not at all picky about their memory chips. (I do believe I used a GA-MA78GM with an Athlon X2 for a few years, with various (increasing) memory configurations.)
The manual says the motherboard has four DDR3 RAM slots, for use with DDR3 1333+ (if overclocked) or DDR3 1066 MHz memory modules. You can use either two or four onesided or dualsided modules. When using only two modules, they need to be in paired slots: either DDR3_1 and DDR3_2, or in DDR3_3 and DDR3_4. They're named DDR3_4, DDR3_2, DDR3_3, DDR3_1 reading from close to the processor towards the power connector. Simply put, if you use only two modules, you leave one unused slot in between.
I am a bit of a paranoid snob, so I like to use a bit of acetone or IPA to clean the contacts of new memory modules before inserting them, and being extra careful when inserting the first one, so that I know it seats right, I know how much force to expect, and so on; and if the second and further ones do not seat exactly the same way, I detach them all and investigate first why not, before re-inserting them. Once there was a piece of cardboard in the module slot. Other times it was my own error (butterfingers). It's not hard, and I guess most people do it right the first time.
Oh, and make a habit of always touching the enclosure chassis before and when grabbing anything for insertion, to minimize static charge buildup (discharging to/through the chassis, if any does). In winter, I often wear woolly socks, and do get a bit of a static buildup. I don't use a wristwrap when building PCs, the fiddle-with-the-chassis habit means it's not necessary. Although, if you ever strip a chassis to its bare bones, you'll love yourself later if you take emory paper or files and remove the burrs from the stamped edges. The tiny cuts they cause otherwise are especially nasty when you forget about them, and use hand sanitizer. Ouchie.
When you stick the memory in, also make sure the CPU cooler is properly attached. If it has sat on a table or in a box unused for a year or longer, I would detach the CPU cooler, and re-apply proper heatsink compound. The purpose of the compound is not to be a complete layer between the two surfaces, only to fill in any microscopic voids and cracks, maximizing the thermal contact between the two surfaces. When properly applied, the compound itself does not matter much (although yes, I did like Arctic Silver, and probably still have a tube of Arctic MX). Especially when too much was initially applied, the compund can dry up, and reduce the contact between the two surfaces. I've used both IPA and acetone to remove the old compound; do not use soap agents, as they leave a film residue, that can affect the thermal interface.
Don't bother with a hard drive. Connect a display and a keyboard, and boot to BIOS. Make note of current settings, then reset to "Safe defaults" (depends a bit on the BIOS). Then, scan through the settings again, paying special attention to the boot devices and boot order (so you can boot!), and if the BIOS provides the facility, choose optimized settings for the RAM. I mean, not the ones you set by hand; but if the BIOS provides "optimized settings" or some such, it probably can query the memory modules capabilities, and uses the best set of settings those capabilities claim.
Then, you boot into a memtest86+ or similar USB boot stick, and let it run for a minimum of 24 hours. If you see any failures, you need to stop, and reduce the BIOS memory settings to less optimized/more conservative values. I never edit the fields by hand; if the "safe defaults" won't work, I get a better set of memory modules. (I like Kingston, Hynix, and Adata.) If the failures are immediate, or the board only sees a fraction of the memory, usually the memory modules are not seated right.
I also like to keep track of the heatsink temperature (preferably near the bottom), to see what the near-idle long-term stable temperature is. If you see a trend in any direction after one hour or so with no change in ambient temperature, there is something wrong with the heatsink mounting. I usually do this "I'm suspicious of you" testing run when the machine is splayed open on my work table over a weekend.
If the board passes memtest without any errors for 48 hours, I'll trust it.
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