CFW for KSGER/Quicko STM32 Soldering Stations

[sebbi1983do]

when i switch the ntc off, the he shows me "voltage low" and "ntc to high". I this case i can only flash the original firmware back and use it normal?

[elektryk]

You can flash backup anytime.
If you feel up to it, you can also replace the MCU with a correct one.

[sebbi1983do]

no. i dont kow how to change it. Then i can only send back  But for me, i dont looks like a fake

[elektryk]

It can be difficult without hot air station.

But for me, i dont looks like a fake

They can write anything, but it doesn't mean that it is genuine.

[ststefanov13]

no. i dont kow how to change it. Then i can only send back  But for me, i dont looks like a fake

A rosette alloy or thin enamel lead can be used, threaded behind the legs of the stm32.

Need to change MCU , Handskit use  clone  (fake) MCU.  Use  authentic STM32F103C8T6 , STM32F103CBT6  or CKS32F103C8T6 , CKS32F103CBT6 . Authentic chips have perfect laser engraving . I have Handskit tweezers and know this from personal experience. Even from your bad photo, it can be seen that the chip was sanded and re-marked not with a laser but with a milling cutter.

Please Reread :  Clone detection https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller/blob/master/Readme_files/Programming.md#clone-detection

[sebbi1983do]

I read it. i was sure, that its ok  because  there was not FFFFFFFF.

[DavidAlfa]

Are you sure you're clicking on SAVE after disabling the NTC?
Long-click or BACK will ignore any changes.

Some T12 stations come with 100K NTC instead 10K, try it!

[sst311212]

I read it. i was sure, that its ok  because  there was not FFFFFFFF.

Your MCU is fake, I ordered some stm32f103cbt6 to replace cks32f103cbt6 on my old board a week ago.

[DavidAlfa]

Your MCU is fake, I ordered some stm32f103cbt6 to replace cks32f103cbt6 on my old board a week ago.

But didn't the CKS work? At least, they did before. Maybe no longer after changing the flash partition scheme?

[sst311212]

I just want to replace cks with genuine one. 
And I also learned how to desolder MCU without hot air gun.

[ststefanov13]

Your MCU is fake, I ordered some stm32f103cbt6 to replace cks32f103cbt6 on my old board a week ago.

But didn't the CKS work? At least, they did before. Maybe no longer after changing the flash partition scheme?

Work. I have Handskit tweezers with CKS32F103CBT6.

[clytle374]

I did not read all the pages of this thread.  But I do believe that I have done my due diligence in trying to answer this question for myself. 

I have a KSGER T12 that has been running the excellent stm32_soldering_iron_controller firmware for some years now.  I just received 2 new KSGER T12 stations and went out of my way to get the same V3.1 HW so they would be the same as my existing station.  I got 2 more for one to mount to my other workbench, and one to run off a Dewalt battery adapter.  Of course researching first would have let me know I was in for trouble. 

The picture is of my previous black PCB, and then one with with the MM32 chip.  So do I understand properly that replacing the MM32 with the STM32F103C8T6 will fix the compatibility issues?   

My other option is to have these boards made and replace all 3 with the same hardware https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Stm32_Soldering_station_1_3_inch_OLED_display_T12.html?upId=0&sid=h5LFuKB3gd7kC%2f1DI6qKBaWVxIMIB5mgBvK0NdM4VI0%3d

Or ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/364491453379?hash=item54dd6233c3:g:OooAAOSwrORlC~G9&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IkQ%2BXf8Fr1M5NCN2g5R%2FRo7luX5NJBZgtDWsUz58V8LxhecvPyFlxA6Ga5vzpOTtzACv0qbN5oz9r1ZaGJq2TnTF8n95Uj8o1vZBsPs5cG4jzVwfoEHJ%2BlKJbErmj49OTLvT1dbrUtIx4301N4HvY%2FZmSxs7%2B%2B5O4x71a%2FH5hg1%2Fgnmpco278bg4OIw%2Bznod%2BgBI3Cv1N95DdkHNJDGwQnelRoq7AXqE0O0%2BYLuvM7BlJ5sas%2BnR0uG9jhLOxu4Z8ilLzPDgPghPdWda4eS%2F6EtUwe8K%2BrjkNr3x34fuwFO%7Ctkp%3ABFBMuMvd4a1j

https://www.ebay.com/itm/404688596635?hash=item5e3951ee9b:g:XQcAAOSwBQ5lgE3E&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8NfuK1%2BDLF9WTYuVX%2FBxI0BhboXB9WU1r0%2BxM9l7m%2BTRpC%2BO3zmNFztrjap%2FiK5i4xEy1dPJ1sz3N7I9EpAmz1SfDyrGom4ov3%2BIMF3QarctriCE%2Bkfr4dOYE4dFfIA3L9WiROwhw%2FEooijoL2zSLnfK1vhCf6r1PBiownLAokjupKv34WrwUzRRrBxXi%2BzJ2jghsSQNHAwnertBWKuaqc2gcnwnsK53d7VEgarERGEDeOIiNBRaz7mk5Y0udlTnTzcQcWmSF%2BMcak8Ps2SY%2FLdTtW2Dm%2FWjDOLK0uMhHuNBs%2BHoblOBTr93cKTfi5l7Gg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77L3eGtYw

Did I figure this correctly?  Thanks

[DavidAlfa]

Yes!
STM32F103C8/CB for 48-pin devices.
STM32F103R8/RB/RC for 64-pin.

[Hunghanh2009]

The picture is of my previous black PCB, and then one with with the MM32 chip.  So do I understand properly that replacing the MM32 with the STM32F103C8T6 will fix the compatibility issues?   

It is completely possible to replace stm32f103cb/c8 on MM32. I also have a green board like you and replaced the stm32 chip which works perfectly except for the clock which is redundant because it doesn't have it in the firmware.

[rlinx]

I am logged in to OpemSTM , I see no download option for Workbench. Please advise.
Thank You.

[DavidAlfa]

Why are you using that? It's clearly indicated, please read! Building the firmware

[clytle374]

Wow, so all the variations of ksger HW3.1 are very confusing.  I have an older one and worked great, the black board with the switch regulator, and Davids fine firmware.  I got 2 more and they have different boards, discussed a few posts back, got proper chips from digkey and started to get read to swap them.  I was worried about the battery hooked to the chip to I removed it, without removing the display.  Managed to get a solder bridge between the battery pins. This instantly smoked the diode into the V reg. Got desperate and removed the display, fixed the short, replaced the diode.  I spend time looking at all the boards and schematics.  And first I don't understand how shorting the battery pins could pull that much current.  I get several hundred ohms from 3V3 to the battery.  But fixing the short fixed the overload, was testing injecting 3V3 with a current limited power supply. 

Looks to actually be named V20 Has anyone made a schematic?  Is there a topic about this board somewhere?  The crystal doesn't hook to the processor.  There is a time data chip and it has a trickle charger function, maybe this blew.   I guess that can all be removed from the board anyway.  But I'm honestly about to start designing and building my own board.  What would be the wish list for David's firmware. No RTC, crystal, or eprom?  Then a proper voltage regulator and battery.  What was the best board as far as the op amp for the temperature sensing?   Any other advice?  I've had several handles short and blow the mosfet, some circuit to shutdown the output would be nice if it was shorted.

[DavidAlfa]

Why a RTC for a soldering station? Would you like the temperature widget 50% smaller to make room for a clock?
You'll see no station with this dumb feature, maybe in newer ones with large LCDs...

As for the EEPROM, it's useless, the settings are pretty large and won't fit there, and not all stations have it anyways, will only add complexity and complicate my existence when maintaining the firmware.

I have a simple vision: One rule thems all!

[clytle374]

I agree the clock is dumb.  Did some of the STM chips have an internal time clock since the crystal was hooked to the STM in many versions?  Also confused as it looks like the battery only hooks to the RTC on this model, does this mean the battery doesn't keep flash memory alive on this models even when it's present?

Overall the battery is good to have? 

My main design criteria is to work seamlessly with your existing firmware, you do excellent work and I lack the skill and have no desire to fork it.  But from the models being released now it seems like it getting harder and harder to get compatible hardware.  Just looking to design something that is simple and is the best of the different models.  What worked well, and what didn't.  ie I think i remember a post about one model having a crappy op-amp for the temperature feedback. 

My only firmware change question I have for you is: If I detect a major overload and shut the output mosfet off.  The only options would be to latch it until power cycle and make someone wonder what was wrong, or detect the overload and shut down every for every individual pulse of the PWM which would most likely burn it up anyway by keeping it inside the linear region all l the time.  My desire to fix this is I had it happen and short the mosfet, when I discovered this the handle was ruined and was almost on fire.  The question is are you open to a signal to the processor that a over current has happened and lock out the PWM drive and throw a error message?  You pick the pin.  Thanks.
   

[DavidAlfa]

The rtc also has some user RAM, used in this FW (After enabling battery option) to store last temperature, tip and profile, so yeah it's a good thing, but not essential, will be stored to the flash otherwise

[clytle374]

What about the versions with out an off board RTC, do they also have user memory?  I assume the STM32 has an onboard RTC since the schematic show a time crystal hooked to the STM32.  So is there any point in the battery without the off board RTC?  I think storing the last settings are worthwhile so trying to get this straight.  I might start another thread on this project.  But would greatly value your input, I wouldn't have known about the RTC without your input. 

[DavidAlfa]

I have no idea. I have no feedback, no schematic... But if the battery is connected to stm23 vbat pin, it will work normallly.
No crystal neeeded, just the battery.

I wouldn't have known about the RTC without your input.

Most is there, it only takes some reading!
https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller#battery-mod

[clytle374]

Yes, thank you.  I did read that at least once.  I did not connect that there was an internal RTC.  I've gotten lost looking at the seemingly 100 versions of the board. 

[Maksim Berezhnoj]

Dear David. Is it possible for you to combine your firmware with the COMBO ksger firmware? This will interest a lot of people.

[DavidAlfa]

No, sorry. I don't have a combo.