$20 LCR ESR Transistor checker project

[madires]

I finally got 1.11m to compile and work. The rotary is a few seconds behind and backwards. The problem germaniums gave the same readings as the original chip.

Compiled 1.13k and the rotary will not work, and sometimes the switch as well. Get the same readings as 1.11m, 1.11m-Chinese on the problem parts.

You can swap the encoder's pins in the k-firmware by setting CHANGE_ROTARY_DIRECTION or by changing ROTARY_1_PIN and ROTARY_2_PIN.

These flags are commented-
#CFLAGS += -DNO_COMMON_COLLECTOR_HFE
#CFLAGS += -DNO_COMMON_EMITTER_HFE

That enables both hFE measurement methods.

[madires]

and on page 55 I found this sentence:

OP MHZ tells your software at which Clock Frequency in MHz your Tester will operate. The
software is tested only for 1MHz, 8MHz and additionally 16MHz. The 8MHz operation is
recommended for better resolution of capacity and inductance measurement.
Example: OP MHZ = 8

If that is true, I think a slower display but a better resolution is preferable.

That surprises me because with 16 MHz the time resolution is doubled and both measurements (capacitance & inductance) are basically time measurements. I'd assume that Karl-Heinz forgot to update the last sentence.

[N9XYP]

You can swap the encoder's pins in the k-firmware by setting CHANGE_ROTARY_DIRECTION or by changing ROTARY_1_PIN and ROTARY_2_PIN.
....
That enables both hFE measurement methods.

I did change the settings in the current version to match the 1.11m version with the 2 second delay, didn't work. Also tried other settings as well and the select button stopped selecting. I am thinking the encoder is junk and your version somehow compensates for that.

I can send you the three 2N404 for testing if you like.

[Zad]

159 Forum pages and Dave doesn't seem to know this amazing little thing even exists?

[zarkov]

Hi Everyone!

I've already red more than the last 30 pages of this thread, trying to find any recent ebay auction link that would be a "sure bet" for buying the best "bang for the bucket" version of the $20 LCR ESR transistor that can be bought today.

If anyone bought it recently from ebay, I would truly appreciate any recommendation! Sometimes what is announced on ebay auction have some hidden tricks...so buying from an already "tried" and trusted seller would be a much better choice!

Thanks in advance for any answer!

[jakeisprobably]

159 Forum pages and Dave doesn't seem to know this amazing little thing even exists?

Dave's well aware of any thread that has a million views. There are banner ads running on here
  The 159 pages here are nothing the Russians have 405 pages currently.

If anyone bought it recently from ebay, I would truly appreciate any recommendation! Sometimes what is announced on ebay auction have some hidden tricks...so buying from an already "tried" and trusted seller would be a much better choice!

Thanks in advance for any answer!

   The cheapest market is AliExpress. No Chinese clone meets the minimum hardware design of the device. You want a replaceable dip packaged MCU. I would choose between the AY-AT and the "Little "t" version that looks similar. I posted the parts needed a few pages back if you want to replace the incorrect components on it. Getting it right with a clone is still going to cost you around $30-$35 USD.
   This seller's listing has been quoted many times before, mostly because almost all of the clones are in this listing and are fairly well priced (I've never ordered from them).
  The best clone is the one you build yourself from scratch. Although understandably, it is probably cheaper to buy and correct a poor design.

[all_repair]

159 Forum pages and Dave doesn't seem to know this amazing little thing even exists?

Yah, if he has known, this would be in his 121GW meter and I /we could have have a reason to load up yet another of this tester.

[jakeisprobably]

Attached is AY-AT Schematic and PCB Reference. I'm working on showing the full retrace now in a video. This one should be error free... I think.. I've triple checked not that that means a whole lot.
  I'll upload the full KiCad file soon as well.... As soon as I'm sure of how to do that correctly.

[EEVblog]

159 Forum pages and Dave doesn't seem to know this amazing little thing even exists?

It's a 4 year old thread.
There are 800 posts a day on the forum, so it's kinda hard to keep up.
I'm not exactly watching the top 10 topics stats all the time.
And quite frankly it's not a hugely interesting forum topic to me. I've no doubt seen it few times over the years but if it shows up on the "Unread Posts", my subconscious scan is just going to skip it.
Video coming shortly...

[EEVblog]

159 Forum pages and Dave doesn't seem to know this amazing little thing even exists?

Dave's well aware of any thread that has a million views. There are banner ads running on here

The top forum threads are trivial in the scheme of things when it comes to daily views.

Of the top treads, the Batteriser one would be the only I follow.

[texaspyro]

Of the top treads, the Batteriser one would be the only I follow.

I've developed a Betterizer...  whatever you connect it to, it makes it better!   Care to order a dozen?  I'll toss an extra one in for free.   It can even make itself better!  Don't connect more than two, though.  The world can't handle anything that freakin' good. 

[ez24]

Video coming shortly...

Waiting ...

[EEVblog]

[oakkar7]

Hi all,

Dave's video version is the same as mine, + come with acrylic case.
First to admit that I am a lazy bone to read all 159 pages forum's pages.   

So, the question is "any better firmware update for this model?"



thanks

[jakeisprobably]

FAQ within 5 min
1.) Who designed the device?  Markus Frejek

2.) Where can I find updated firmware?
2 versions are hosted on the Deutsch Forum where the project originated.
Download the zipped tarball here

3.) Who creates these files?
Markus R. (m-firmware)
Karl-Heinz K. (k-firmware)

4.) What is the best device to buy?
The one you build yourself using the tarball file from above.

5.) I'm too lazy and cheap to build it from scratch. What do I look for in a clone?
a.) 3× 680ohm resistors @0.1% tolerance
3× 470k resistors @0.1% tolerance
b.) Low Dropout Voltage Regulator with 0.5% accuracy or better OR less accurate LDO PLUS a precision voltage reference with 0.5% accuracy or better.
c.) ATmega328 with a replaceable dip package
d.) 6 or 10 pin "In Circuit Programming" header (ISP)

6.) I'm not very smart and I get distracted by pretty things. What's with all the different screen options? What's the best one?
a.) The graphics display makes the unit noticeably slower. Several screens are supported in the official firmware.
b.) Both the alphanumeric and graphics screens do the same thing unless you speak a character based language such as many languages from Asia.

7.) I'm still very confused, and I'm starting to feel impatient with you. What is the latest cheap clone I should look for?
 The 'names' of clones are non-existent. The latest mass produced version (2017) comes with a red PCB that is often incorrectly called a M12864 by sellers. The variation that is sold with a frequency counter and Square Wave PWM output is usually considered the 'latest pretty version.' This version reliably comes equipped with an ATmega328 and is already configured with most project accessory options. Forum members often call it "AY-AT" because this has been printed across a few variations. The easiest way to search for it online is terms like "Transistor Tester PWM" or "tester PWM."

8.) What compromises am I making with this latest clone?
a.) 1% probing resistors instead of 0.1% on most kits
b.) 1% Voltage Reference instead of better than 0.5%
c.) No ISP header so you must remove the microcontroller to update the firmware.

9.) I'm too lazy to open the tarball file, and I still have a question.
***Here*** is the official PDF documentation from an older tarball file from May 2017.

10.) Lol, I'm not about to read all of that... it doesn't have enough pictures. I think I'll just ask a stupid lazy question in this forum.
Use search first. Then read at least the page here:
https://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester
Then read the last 10 pages of this thread minimum before asking the same questions from the last couple of pages.
  This forum is followed regularly by Markus R, the developer of the m-firmware. He likes to help people, as do many others here. We would all like the project to continue as long as possible, so please don't waste everyone's time asking the same questions dozens of times.

Note: I think this device is too simple. I assume it must be designed by amateurs. I know just how to improve it and I can't wait to tell everyone here about it before I read the details about the project...

  This project is an exercise in maximizing the potential of the ATmega microcontroller's internal hardware using a combination of C and Assembly.
  The firmware developers are more than capable of designing and integrating improved hardware options. However, they are not interested in creating a project where people must continuously "buy" the latest/greatest product. They have stated, 'If/when they feel they can no longer improve the project any further through software, they may consider creating a Tester+ version.'

[jakeisprobably]

The picture flipbook summary of pages 1-150 of this thread:
EEVBlog Transistor Tester Thread
Part 1 of 3
https://youtu.be/on1ZrWNt2Us
Part 2 of 3
https://youtu.be/RRJ5K752d18
Part 3 of 3
https://youtu.be/1ARlc1BHLUw

[indman]

Attached is AY-AT Schematic and PCB Reference.

It is correct 22pF? Original schematik 100nF

[b_force]

Great music btw! 

Bit of a sarcastic post.
I think what's missing is a very clean, easy to read and understandable summary.
Although I can imagine the frustration, not everyone has the time to read (and understand) a 130 page counting document.
A topic with a first post that is being updated regularly also works.

So my suggestion, write a short second document with a brief summary and little table with specs and differences in firmware versions/variations.
Unless you're really into the project it's a bit of maze imo (nofi btw) 

[ElektroQuark]

Quote from: jakeisprobably on Today at 06:42:59

>FAQ within 5 min
...

Thank you very much, jakeisprobably.

[jakeisprobably]

Bit of a sarcastic post.

   It's intended as a joke. If you read a considerable amount of the thread you'll feel the same. Also if you were to pay attention to my first posts... I'm actually making fun of myself. I made all of these lazy/stupid mistakes.

...write a short second document with a brief summary and little table with specs and differences in firmware versions/variations.

  I've been working on it for awhile, but I'm a slow partially disabled gimp. I wrote that FAQ a month ago. I have a lot more info complied but I need to collect a bit more information first. There will be a new thread here with a better organized first post eventually.
This post has all ATmega328 project options listed
@Indman your correct I must have copied that capacitor and forgot to change the value, sorry.

[tooki]

Re: jakeisprobably's awesome FAQ, #8:

Does that mean I can improve the accuracy of my T4 by replacing some components with better ones?

[Giox040]

Hi!

Can anyone recommend me a DC-DC step up from 5-9V up to about 25V for Z-Diode test to buy on ebay?

Thank in advance.

[madires]

Can anyone recommend me a DC-DC step up from 5-9V up to about 25V for Z-Diode test to buy on ebay?

A good DC/DC converter would be MEA1D0515SC from muRata. I recommend to power it by a separate LDO with proper decoupling. Please see the ATmega 644 schematic in Karl-Heinz's documentation.

[Mr. Scram]

I very much appreciate the willingness to admit a mistake, and having a second look, regardless of the conclusions drawn.

[jakeisprobably]

Does that mean I can improve the accuracy of my T4 by replacing some components with better ones?

Probably. The device will perform to spec if built to spec, but I'm no expert.