There were two CR10 V2 available an hour ago, one has already gone, I succumbed to temptation and got the other one Cost me £15 more than the Ender 3 refund, couldn't resist
So now the question is, what are you getting yourself into with an open box one?
Yeah... let's hope NOT one that was returned for the same assache you just put to rest.
mnem
If you're going to risk assache, at least try to make it a new assache.
My own design does that, not heat proof but the body that goes inside is cold and no damage is made to the plastic:
Also if you want you can use reflective tape to heat proof it easy
If you have a printer you can print yourself.
And i can customize spacing, rows, cols for you if you want
I don't see why people get hung up on the noise 3D Printers make, my E3 is in the same room I live in which is about 15ft square
and when it's running I just go about my daily business which includes watching movies.
Maybe some fans are faulty but honestly my E3 is really unobtrusive when it's running.
Changing the fan and making new cover seems a lot of hassle for negligible drop in noise.
@HobGoblyn save a few quid for a direct drive.
There are a few to choose from, microswiss is the most expensive of them all.
As the Ender 3 (Pro) has rather noisy fans, I've seen some projects that aim to replace the MeanWell PSU fan with a larger (and slower and hence quieter) one.
But because of larger hole needed, the original metal PSU cover has to be replaced by a 3D-printed one (e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4503364 )
What do you think about this kind of mods (esp. safety-wise) ? Personally, I wouldn't feel 100% comfortable leaving a printer running for long time in that state.
I don't see why people get hung up on the noise 3D Printers make, my E3 is in the same room I live in which is about 15ft square and when it's running I just go about my daily business which includes watching movies. Maybe some fans are faulty but honestly my E3 is really unobtrusive when it's running. Changing the fan and making new cover seems a lot of hassle for negligible drop in noise.
Someones printed a bracket allowing you to move the extruder right over the hot end for the V2
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032096
...If you're going to risk assache, at least try to make it a new assache.
Hehe. I would have got there in the end with the Ender 3, but I didn't see why I should be replacing parts, or spending hours more of my time just trying to get it to work right (not talking about tweaking Cura etc, I'm talking about when I run 5 point bed level a few times in a row, and some times it's spot on, and sometimes there's about 3mm gap)
I'm usually excellent at fixing things, just got to the point where after 50 odd days, and with only 2 weeks left to return it, returning it was the best course of action, a replacement machine is a fresh start for me
Amazon is currently listing the CR10 V2 for £469 (I know it can be got a bit cheaper elsewhere), so paying £15 more than the £279 they refunded me for my Ender 3, even if I ended up having to replace a couple of bits, I doubt they would come anywhere near to the £175 price difference. The description said quote "Like New - Item will come in original packaging. Packaging will be damaged".
If I needed to, I can get the Vframe easy enough in the UK, just checked prices on one site and for 650mm upright it's £9.83, for 550mm that uprights screws into, it's only £8.32 (inc VAT + £2.63 postage), motors are available on Amazon for next day delivery for £10 etc. And of course can probably get them much cheaper if I get elsewhere.
My point being, when I get a saving like this, I'm not too bothered if something is damaged as it's easily replaceable for very little money (already have brand new SKR V2 board, TFT V3 screen and BLTouch).
I do have a spare creality glass bed though if anyone (in UK) wants it, used just for a couple of days while I did those level tests.
It's all the fault of sn4k3 I was happily learning my electronics hobby when I made a post about soldering iron tip stand and he said:Quote from: sn4k3My own design does that, not heat proof but the body that goes inside is cold and no damage is made to the plastic: Also if you want you can use reflective tape to heat proof it easy If you have a printer you can print yourself.And i can customize spacing, rows, cols for you if you want
I'd always wanted a printer, but him saying that was what pushed me into getting one now
Someones printed a bracket allowing you to move the extruder right over the hot end for the V2
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032096
That's a good thing for starters...
But later you will want a smaller stepper than that because after the conversion it's going to become an added dead weight on the carriage, but a smaller stepper has less torque => you want one that comes with a reduction gear (to multiply the torque of the now less torquey stepper), like for example a bondtech: https://www.bondtech.se/en/
There are many others, and copies too, in aliexpress, banggood etc.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cr10+direct+drive
Yeah, multiple stories like this one are why I've never personally been too keen on "Titan quality". Making a load-bearing part of brittle plastic, and not changing the design when it proves problematic, is not my idea of customer responsiveness.
mnem
There is just so much bad engineering there... it makes me cringe. Big bearing bore, thin walls, screws that hold the entire weight of the assembly going through it and no metal reinforcements... needs twice that mass in plastic, and even then would still probably break under some people's heavy hand.
The right way to fix it would be a CNC AL plate with a peephole where the filament goes between the pinion/roller. Done and done, plus you can tighten it enough to keep from shaking loose without worrying about grenading the plastic. But then, once you start CNC-ing, you start thinking about the lever, and the base, and...
mnem
Bah. I'm with Brumby... time to take up knitting.