could anyone please print me a microscope Head adaptor ring
i have a very old Nikon stereo microscope with a nice very heavy stand,the adjustable Head mount , has got multi angle adjustments, and i would now like to use it with my cheap new eakins c-mount hdmi/usb camera in place of the optic stereo head, the only problem is that the mount for the head has a diameter 62mm, it seems the STD/ now is 76mm
and i can not get a adaptor ring any were, i have ordered a 28mm to 50mm ring from,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001447360604.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.21ef1802xXDuZRas the lens i got with the microscope camera has a shaft size of 28mm and it came with a 40mm ring adaptor and the stand is just a very weak microphone stand that shakes very bad when you have to adjust the camera,
so if anyone can make me up this adaptor ring to go from 50mm to 62mm can you please let me know the price, and i will give some better dimentions, i am in the United kingdom i am now medically retired , so i can not get my own 3d printer
i will be very great-full if some one can do this for me
Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
Another 2E0, jeepers.
I have gone to they North for the day but when I get home tomorrow I will see if I can do a basic 3d model for you.
So Dave I have drawn it up in CAD. So over to you.
This looks great , i need it to be made as i do not have a 3d printer
can you do this for me,
Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
Have you tried eBay? I got an adapter for my Nikon stereo head to another stand for about $25 (Search: microscope head adapter ring). Here's another example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204681511152?The older Nikon is a standard size, but smaller than most stands.
Hi yes i looked all over and nothing my size, my head has a diameter 62mm
Thanks Dave
I have an older (late 1990's) NIkon stereo head. It was effectively unused. What is your model? I am sure your measure is accurate, but did you measure the correct mounting point? I will edit with a picture of my scope and hopefully a link t what bought. It was years ago.
John
EDIT:
eBay's past history is a mess. I couldn't find that purchase.
My ring (attached) is 62mm ID by 76mm OD with an 84mm rim. The little thumb screw on the side is helpful to keep the head from turning when adjusting the continuously variable magnification. It's not necessary, but helps and does not need to be tight.
EDIT2:
Amscope might have adapters too. I suspect you looked there too.
Hi John,
i will have a look for the model number, i would say this is maybe from the 1970-80
Dave
Have you looked at 3D printing facilities in your location?
For example the Prusa website (
https://forum.prusa3d.com/) has a section with international locations of individuals and commercial 3D printing facilities.
A quick Google where I live has about 30 places that will either take a stl or gcode file and just print it and others will take a rough sketch with dimensions and do it for you.
Added the extra dimensions.
Once that is OK I will print it in ABS and post it to you.
Good after noon, thanks your drg is great and all correct ,
:clap:Thanks Dave
Hi John
my Nikon microscope head is a 56179
Dave
Mine is an SMZ-2 (like attached), with variable magnification is from 0.8 up. My stand is aftermarket.
I suspect they are not very similar, if that is the style, not something like a serial number. More modern Nikon dissecting scopes seem to all be SMZ-something.
John
Hi John
this is my Nikon microscope, the LENS says A.L.5 and the eyes are X10, There is no zoom, and working distance is about 200mm,
i was working at bae when they closed use down, so i grabbed this as no one wanted it, i was only contracting so i had to give the perm staff 1st pickings, it is very very heavy
Dave
Hi John or anyone,
can you tell me is it the lens in the front that does the working distance,
Dave
The whole optical path is involved in focusing. For example, one of the eye pieces ("oculars") looks like it has a small focusing ring so both eyes are in focus for people whose eyes are not exactly the same, which is very common. The "objective" is the lens at the end. It is most important for working distance. The power of the ocular/eyepiece times the objective = total magnification. Resolution is determined by the objective. For what you will be doing, that distinction between magnification and resolution is probably unimportant. With variable magnification, for that type of microscope, one must usually refocus when changing magnification. Your scope will be fixed.
Why do you need a new stand? That is a nice stand. If you were closer, I'd gladly trade with you.
Hi John,
i picked this up about 25 years ago, and it has been very useful ,
No John i will be using this stand with my HDMI/usb , sd card video /Photo Microscope camera, as the stand i got with that one was very week it is a cheap microphone stand,
as when i will be using the nikon stand with the HDMI camera, it will not move about, as this is very heavy and solid, it does take up more room on the bench,
so this is why i need a adaptor ring,
i have sent Nikon a email asking for any info, it will be good to find out the age of it,
also do you know anything about the adaptors that you remove the lens eyepiece and put a c mount hdmi camera in its place
do these adaptors have a x10 lens in place to make up for the one that was removed
Thanks Dave
I looked at the drawing from mendip_discovery.
If he has issues printing the part I could print you one (Prusa MK3).
There would be a delay since it would have to mailed to you as I am based in Ontario Canada.
Hi richnormand this is very kind of you,
I will let you know if there is any problems
Thanks Dave
I looked at the drawing from mendip_discovery.
If he has issues printing the part I could print you one (Prusa MK3).
There would be a delay since it would have to mailed to you as I am based in Ontario Canada.
Lol, I set it to print and then watched some TV while I waited for it to print. I now have a birds nest. I think the ABS came unstuck from the bed. Will try again today, it's only a 1hr 45m print.
In other news a new Klipper based board has turned up for my machine so once I have a good print I will take my printer apart to fit the new board. Then I might be able to use a half decent slicer.
Good morning
Thanks for trying i hope you have better luck on the next print,
i remember when i worked a few years ago at ASV they did un-maned boats,
they got a 3d printer and it would take all day to do a small print, and most of the time it did not go well,
i have never used one,
Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
And they Paid about £5000 for it, and when it went bad they had some one come out to fix it, and he said that they had got a
Toy, so not as good one for its time,
Dave
It's heart warming to see people jump in to help you, if you get stuck I can offer help too at no cost, I find that my prints come out most accurate in PLA and the part looks very straight forward.
Hi amwales
Yes it is great that so meany willing to Help and you to,
i do appreciate all of the Help
Thanks Dave
Hopefully it will work this time, I had bed adhesion issues. I just made some Acetone-ABS slurry and smeared that on the print bed and that has stopped it warping. I also dropped the temp by 10C as that was at the 270/280 range and my abs is a 240 to 260C stuff.