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How much do you have to spend to get a good crimping tool?
Posted by theleakydiode on 20 Jul, 2020 04:07 -
For things like faston, uninsulated spade, ferrule and that sort of thing how much does one need to spend on a crimping tool to get something which produces production quality crimps? My cheap crimper is a bit hit or miss at times, but you get what you pay for.
Looking online there's a huge price range for the same types of crimps from £10 to £100+!
I know I probably need a ratcheting type, but looking at videos on the internet even those can differ in the end result. I'm a hobbyist but occasionally dabble with fixing things for people or very basic automotive electronics. -
You have to match the tool to the crimp terminal. If you look at the terminal datasheet they will always list a range of tools that you can use.
I like the AMP/TE Connectivity PIDG terminals. The tools to search for are the 47386(22-16awg), 47387 (16-14awg) and the 59250 (both previous sizes in one tool).
If you are patient you can find them for very cheap second hand, I think I've paid around ~USD30 each on average for them, and they retail in the hundreds to USD1400 range depending on the tool.
So those are the "endgame" tools that you should have an eBay search saved for. It took me a couple of years to finally acquire my set.
Speaking of eBay searches, it's good to chuck the big names on there like Molex, Panduit, JST. You never know what you'll find.
In the meantime I think for a hobbyist, it's more useful to have a frame with dies so you can do a large variety of crimps. The Pressmaster MCT is one example, I know it's rebranded with different names(sometimes cheaper) so if you search the forum I think you'll find it quickly.
I just have the standard Pressmaster insulated terminal crimper and it's okay. Definitely a step above the $20 cheap ratchet tools but it's still a toy compared to the big boys. -
Here in the Colonies we have an "imported good tools for less outlet" known as Harbor Freight, they offer this ratcheting tool for Faston type terminals, for USD$14.99, it produces VERY good full-compression crimps.
I suspect that Amazon or some similar outlet "over there, 'cross the pond" has a comparable tool:
MY mum was a "war bride" from Sweffling, Suffolk. -
I cannot bring myself to support Harbor Freight for any reason. Purveyors of bottom feeder manufacturing. Horrible.
I am, however, like the OP looking to understand the performance differences between crimpers found on eBay/Amazon/Harbor Freight and the genuine Molex or TE models. The price difference is enormous and I am needed 3-4 different types (don't have years to spend searching the bowels of eBay for used).
TE ferrule crimper: $340 USD
Pseudo branded Amazon ferrule crimper: $20
Similar $$ differences with other types of crimp tools. I have a few OEM crimp tools for various connectors. They were really expensive, but work perfect every time. What I am looking at now is $1,000 vs maybe $80. How bad is the experience with the cheap stuff?
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For standard insulated ring and faston terminals, I've had very good success with the non-ratcheting type. I think the ratcheting types are great for production-line repeatability, that is, to apply exactly the same crimping force every time. I've used the AMP/TE ratcheting crimp tool on a production line. I've made thousands of connections. They work very well. But they are $500.
On the other hand, I've had equally good success (at home) with good quality non-ratcheting types. I own the Greenlee. Do not own the Klein but have used it. They are well made, and the crimp quality is good. The only difference is: You have to decide how hard to squeeze.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/greenlee-communications/KP1022D/KP1022D-ND/3980252
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/klein-tools-inc/J1005/1742-1351-ND/6803549
I'd just stay away from the super cheap 37-in-1 crimp, strip, cut, bolt cutter combo tools that are made from thin stamped steel. The forged ones have a wider crimping area which usually leads to a better connection.
I only ever use faston and ring, so if you want to make other crimp connections, perhaps one of those cheap ratcheting types with interchangeable dies are good, but if you're limited to faston, ring, etc., then you might be better off with good quality non-ratcheting.
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There are two basic sorts of non-ratcheting crimpers, the "staking" and the "squashing" types:
THe squashing type is horrid, calling it a crimping tool is an insult to all other crimpers.
Though as i have a proper full compression tool--admittedly purchased from the devil himself¹--I would not use either:
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¹ - I am somewhat bemused by the vitiolic response re: Harbor Freight--last I knew no one was being forced to buy there. It is true that thy sell some real crap, however they also sell some pretty decent stuff too. Both my mini-lathe and mill came from HF:
Both very capable tools, once cleaned, re-lubed, and fine tuned...
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There are two basic sorts of non-ratcheting crimpers, the "staking" and the "squashing" types:
THe squashing type is horrid, calling it a crimping tool is an insult to all other crimpers.
Though as i have a proper full compression tool--admittedly purchased from the devil himself¹--I would not use either:
For my own edification, can you tell me what you think is so horrid about the squashing type? In my experience, the squashing type is used for insulated terminals, and the staking for non-insulated. I've done many hearty pull tests with both styles of crimp and never have had any issues.
Again, this is with a forged type pliers, not the stamped metal type. -
For instance,
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For my own edification, can you tell me what you think is so horrid about the squashing type? In my experience, the squashing type is used for insulated terminals, and the staking for non-insulated. I've done many hearty pull tests with both styles of crimp and never have had any issues.
Again, this is with a forged type pliers, not the stamped metal type.
The cheap stamped squashing type (as shown in my photo) squeezes the terminal's ferrule over very little area, and in my experience with that specific type as shown does not produce any substantive melding of the ferrule and wire as it just mushes it all up into a sloppy crescent--this is especially so if the wire is too small for the chosen terminal. Thy perform especially poorly with insulated terminals.
I have seen forged "squashers" that are not too bad, however in the presence of a "staker" or full compression tool I would not use one. With a "staker I have found it important to align the stake with the solid backside of the less expensive terminals wit the folded formed ferrule--not the split side, as that just opens up the split and results in a very poor crimp.
With full compression tools plentifully and inexpensively available ($15 to $20 on Amazon if you'd rather not deal with the devil) that's my "go-tool". To crimp insulated terminals I would use no other--though in critical or high-current applications I usually remove the insulation before crimping and followup with some heat shrink tubing if needed.
A solid, firm high-pressure compression crimp will fuse the wire to itself and the terminal's ferrule. I have a 10-ton hydraulic tool I generally use with 6 ga. or heavier wire that does quite literally weld the wire and terminal when used with a good, tight die.
In the end tools, any and all, are just what my grandfather always told us; "...only as good as their operator." -
With the availability of low-cost ratcheting crimps - not sure why anyone is using the non-ratcheting type.
Still trying to figure out if the $340 Tyco crimp tools are made on the same line as the $25 tools that are sold on Amazon. To my untrained eye - they all look the same but my engineering self tells me there are subtle differences that could be significant to the end result.
For hooking up a car stereo in your kids 20 year old Honda Civic - it may not matter. However, for jobs that are critical.....can the low-cost crimps deliver success?
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I have been using the set I got from Beelzebub for over 10 years, often on higher than rated current applications like the damned Honda bikes that run the main system feed (60-70 A) through 12 ga. wire and a 1/4" spade connector. In that application (I replace the OEM crap with Faston connectors) they are better than the factory crimps, never had one come back...
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With the availability of low-cost ratcheting crimps - not sure why anyone is using the non-ratcheting type.
Still trying to figure out if the $340 Tyco crimp tools are made on the same line as the $25 tools that are sold on Amazon. To my untrained eye - they all look the same but my engineering self tells me there are subtle differences that could be significant to the end result.
For hooking up a car stereo in your kids 20 year old Honda Civic - it may not matter. However, for jobs that are critical.....can the low-cost crimps deliver success?
Well, you're probably right at this point. Last time I tried the cheap ratcheting crimps was about 10 years ago. I just remember them being not very smooth, tendency to jam, etc. But now I see crimp tools with thousands of 5-star ratings on Amazon, so I guess they're okay now?
Only thing I can think of (in favor of forged, non-ratcheting crimps) is that they are bulletproof. Ratcheting crimp tools need springs and gears, and a few other bits and pieces to work. I feel they are intrinsically less reliable, but that may be a moot point, given the price. -
I think the important point is that the material to be crimped must be confined and prevented from expanding sideway. The forged crimper shown above does show much smaller gaps on each side of the crimp and probably can do a good job than the cheap squashing types.
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I have collected a couple of the stamped type dedicated crimpers for things like Molex pins, and a Greenlee ratcheting crimper for Ethernet connectors, but bought a Paladin CrimpALL ratcheting crimper (now owned by Greenlee) for coaxial connectors which I really like:
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-CrimpALL-Crimper-Frame-PA8000/dp/B000VH1OVG
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These crimpers are for different types of connectors. Top is for non-insulated, bottom for insulated connectors. So such comparison is nonsensical. And I've seen insulated connectors crimped with staking type, done by some idiots. Needless to say I could pull the wire out of large part of them without much effort.
There are two basic sorts of non-ratcheting crimpers, the "staking" and the "squashing" types:
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Enough about tools, here are some empirical results of using the three styles of crimpers I have on 14 ga. wire and "blue" (16--14 ga. recommended) 1/4' spade terminals--I also threw in a "ringer", my "finest kind" tool i use for non-insulated terminals (or after removing the insulation):
all four (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression, the "ringer")--what I will call the "top" side...
all four (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression, the "ringer")--what I will call the "back" side...
the three insulated terminals--insulation removed (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression)-- "top" side...
insulated terminals--insulation removed (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression)-- "back" side...
Note: I could have better positioned the "stake", but it looked OK with the insulation on.
Micrographs of all:
squashed (top)...
squashed (back)...
staked (top)...
staked (back)...
full compression (top)...
full compression (back)...
"ringer" (top)...
"ringer" (back)...
So, what is the "ringer" you ask?
It's a tool made for non-insulated MC4 barrel connectors commonly used in solar panel installations:
It makes the prettiest, most secure crimps of any hand-held tool I have--throw some heat shrink tubing on this puppy and never worry about it, ever again...
And--just for the sake of completeness--here is what the 10-ton hydraulic swager does to a 6 ga. ring terminal:
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All of 3 crimps are complete and utter garbage. One on the left had connector improperly rotated in the tool. In the middle crimped with wrong tool. On the right, connector improperly rotated and improperly positioned in crimper by length. Not to say it's even resulted in cracked metal. Edit: on second thought might be damaged during insulation removal. Garbage crimp nonetheless.
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All of 3 crimps are complete and utter garbage. One on the left had connector improperly rotated in the tool. In the middle crimped with wrong tool. On the right, connector improperly rotated and improperly positioned in crimper by length. Not to say it's even resulted in cracked metal. Edit: on second might be damaged during insulation removal. Garbage crimp nonetheless.
What do you feel is the proper orientation for each tool; inverted from what I did, or with the split "sideways"?
Photos?
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What do you feel is the proper orientation for each tool; inverted from what I did, or with the split "sideways"?
It should be aligned in a way that top/bottom of the connector is matched with top/bottom of the tool. Rotation from that position should be avoided as much as possible. In 3rd case plastic part should be positioned right in the middle of the tool. Not protruding from either side of it. -
Pictures.
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What do you feel is the proper orientation for each tool; inverted from what I did, or with the split "sideways"?
It should be aligned in a way that top/bottom of the connector is matched with top/bottom of the tool. Rotation from that position should be avoided as much as possible. In 3rd case plastic part should be positioned right in the middle of the tool. Not protruding from either side of it.
That is pretty much as I did, however I did take any extraordinary precaution to prevent the metal terminals from rolling within the sleeve while performing the crimp. Crimping metal through a plastic sleeve is not a sensible thing to do--I.e. I agree all three crimps performed in that manner are garbage..
With the terminals I have the rearmost 0.1" or so of the insulation is intended to be strain relief, the metal ferrule of the terminal is only 2/3rd's the length of the plastic. Centering the insulation in the tool would result in just 1/2 or so of the ferrule being crimped. In any event since obtaining the MC4 tool I have abandoned using insulated terminals for any critical application...
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Crimping metal through a plastic sleeve is not a sensible thing to do--I.e. I agree all three crimps performed in that manner are garbage..
Look at my crimp I've done just now. -
BTW in 3rd case did you use a blue die? Asking because it seems as if die of larger size was used. Or connectors you have are of reduced outer diameter. Molex makes those and probably some others too.
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BTW in 3rd case did you use a blue die? Asking because it seems as if die of larger size was used. Or connectors you have are of reduced outer diameter. Molex makes those and probably some others too.
Yes, it was the "blue" notch in the tool--though it is a 10+ year-old tool. I am not as tightly assembled as I was 10 years ago...