Sure, put one lead in, and just add a jumper wire to connect the far lead. Maybe add a glob of glue (preferably electronics safe silicone or the like?) to anchor it so it's not wobbly.
Tim
I have a few questions regarding axial capacitors replacement options. The blue ones shown in the picture, that might or might not be electrolytic. (yes, indeed, my actual knowledge level is that bad)
can they be safely replaced with radial ones? (of same or superior voltage off course)
- if so, which would be the positive side?
- Is there a better alternative? The values range from 15uF to 680 with voltages in the 6v3 - 25 range, but for a few 100V ones.
I have a very limited budget and was planning to use cheap radial electrolytic, as I have a box with plenty of them.
I have a few questions regarding axial capacitors replacement options. The blue ones shown in the picture, that might or might not be electrolytic. (yes, indeed, my actual knowledge level is that bad)
Those are definitely aluminum electrolytic capacitors.Quotecan they be safely replaced with radial ones? (of same or superior voltage off course)
Radial parts can be used as replacements for axial parts. Either one lead can be folded back, or often better is to attach the leads at more opportune spots on the board as shown in my example below.Quote- if so, which would be the positive side?
On an axial aluminum electrolytic capacitor, the crimped side with the rubber seal is the positive side. In your photograph, the top parts is positive on the left.Quote- Is there a better alternative? The values range from 15uF to 680 with voltages in the 6v3 - 25 range, but for a few 100V ones.
I have a very limited budget and was planning to use cheap radial electrolytic, as I have a box with plenty of them.
Replacement with radial parts is usually the best option. Higher voltage parts can be used for convenience.
Why are you replacing them?
I wouldn't mess with them unless you have good reason to suspect one. A box full of cheap caps of unknown specs are not necessarily an improvement over 30+ year old vintage ones.
If you’re replacing them, why not replace them with… drumroll please… axial caps? Several manufacturers still make them. In fact, that’s a Philips scope, so made with Philips caps, which are now Vishay, so you should be able to get something very similar to the original.
Last pic doesn't look right at all to me! Where's the other leg of each capacitor? It looks like you've just cut it away, or am I missing something? Doesn't look right (given the fact you're replacing axial with radial) And also, generic jwco vent caps? Seriously? You need proper, low ESR caps from a reputable brand here, not generic Chinese caps.
I need a lot of proper things mate, but I have to deal with the crappy stuff I can afford or I already have, as mentioned previously.
I wouldn't mess with them unless you have good reason to suspect one.
I wouldn't mess with them unless you have good reason to suspect one.
The old blue Philips electrolytics are known to go bad after 20 to 30 years.
If you’re replacing them, why not replace them with… drumroll please… axial caps? Several manufacturers still make them. In fact, that’s a Philips scope, so made with Philips caps, which are now Vishay, so you should be able to get something very similar to the original.
I need a lot of proper things mate, but I have to deal with the crappy stuff I can afford or I already have, as mentioned previously.Glad to see the legs were just hidden. But back to the choice of capacitors, those generic ones you're using wouldn't last long, and could potentially even cause damage to the circuit in the long run. Capacitors aren't overly expensive, and you could easily get better ones from TME or LCSC. Up to you, just know that laziness has it's price!
If you’re replacing them, why not replace them with… drumroll please… axial caps? Several manufacturers still make them. In fact, that’s a Philips scope, so made with Philips caps, which are now Vishay, so you should be able to get something very similar to the original.I'm a cheap bastard. ;P
Longest story: I have little budget to drop here and I felt since the beginning I was quite unlikely to succeed in the repair, as I have almost no idea what I'm doing. Not as bad as electrocuting myself, but this thing is way too complex for my current or future skill level.
I had the box of caps here, so I thought just dropping them in place (after checking values) could do the trick.
It wasn´t aimed to be a final repair. I was hoping to reach if not a working device, at least a "good enough to hope is completely fixable" state, so I could eventually put together the money to get the proper parts and do a fine job. Time is the thing I have to spare right now, so doing everything again doesn´t bother me.
I wasn´t going to really use it anyway. I recently put all my savings in the cheapest Hantek so this is just a long term project. I just wanted (and still want) to see it working. Hopefully, I wouldn´t have done any serious damage.
There are places to use cheap components, but test gear isn't one of them if you ask me. You want to be able to depend on your test gear. In the end, "expensive" capacitors are still cheap in the grand scheme of things.
Yeah, you really want to avoid having to resolder the joints over and over. Each time there is a risk of direct damage (like a damaged solder pad) or indirect damage (like ESD damage to a component elsewhere on the board). For a single component to see if it brings the device back to life, temporarily installing a cheap component is viable. But I wouldn't do a whole untargeted recap using cheap ones.
I doubt you’ve damaged it, either, since it is working. It’s only a matter of risk any time one performs surgery on a device.
And you will learn! If you stick around here, it’s basically inevitable!