As per the title, which tip will be suitable for soldering these tiny pins? I assume it is one with the bevel and a suitable size would be pretty important?
Pin size isn't determined by what the chip does, but by the IC package it's in. Microprocessors come in everything from DIP to BGA, so it being a microprocessor tells us literally absolutely nothing about your soldering tip needs.
Indeed, many ICs are available in multiple packages, so even just specifying an IC type (like "Atmega328P", the chip used in the Arduino Uno) doesn't help.
So you'll really need to tell us what IC package you need to solder. By "tiny pins" I'm guessing most likely a QFP, but even those come in various pin pitches.
Whatever tooki mentioned regarding pin/pad sizes.
In practice, for the QFP and small passives (0804, 0603) I mostly use the T18-CF1 and have seen occasional use for the T18-DL12 - the standard screwdriver tip also works well (I forgot its P/N).
For the very large ground planes, I use the T18-C4 or the T18-S3. I bought also a T18-S4 but haven't had the need to use it.
According to Hakko, shape BC/C is recommended for drag soldering. I use a chisel but the proper shape holds more solder so an entire row can be soldered without having to apply more solder to the tip.
https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type.htmlYou need to spend some quality time at Google researching 'drag soldering'.
More like shitty soldering demo. EDIT: and 0.5mm pin pitch is BS, he soldered 0.65mm pin pitch as he mentioned it's FT232RL.
On a related note, I highly recommend Edsyn FL22. It is hands down the best no-clean flux I've encountered for this purpose. It's pricey at $25 per 5mL syringe, so I only use it when other fluxes have failed me.
Apologies, I should have provided more info ... it's the one below, LQFP?
Assuming the pads are appropriate for the pins, it will be easy to drag solder. There is a lot of clearance between pins.
It pays to have some liquid flux and Solder Wick to remove any bridges. With that package, given the pin spacing, I wouldn't expect bridges. Walk in the park!
The secret to drag soldering is the flux! Tack the diagonal corners to locate the chip, run a bead of flux over the pins, tin the iron tip and start dragging.
There are many videos on drag soldering but the one I posted is the exact technique I have been using for the last 10+ years.
Here's another video by the company that supplies my flux and solder paste:
Same technique, different video.
The secret to drag soldering is the flux!
Flux is the secret of getting job done with low skill and crappy tools. The larger amount, longer lasting and more active flux you use, the lower skill you need to get the job done. In other words you can compensate the lack of skill or not adequate soldering iron tip with using more flux. You get board covered with a lot of gunk though. And you won't be able to clean all of it from under ICs with simply IPA and brush.
It follows then that the most skilled soldering artisans use no flux at all.
IMO the skill that matters is the skill of producing high quality finished boards. If someone use Nutella for flux and gets a better result than the Jedi master who does it with a picoliter of Kester, more power to them.
Staying on topic though, IMO one of the best investments you can make to improve soldering (speed, quality, and enjoyment) is a PCB pre-heater. Especially with lead-free. Night and day.
It follows then that the most skilled soldering artisans use no flux at all.
You need flux, but only a small amount. It's a completely flawed logic to conclude that because a lot of flux can compensate for lack of skill, then good skill requires no flux at all.
If someone use Nutella for flux and gets a better result than the Jedi master who does it with a picoliter of Kester, more power to them.
You just need an ultrasonic cleaner and good cleaning fluid to remove all of that junk from the board. Also good looking joints (after cleaning) do not mean that PCB and parts were not overheated in the process.
I was using 900M-T-3CM Shape-3C, but I believe this was too thick for this kinda work.
Looking at the Hakko website, I suppose one of the below?
900M-T-1CF Shape-1C
900M-T-2BCZ Shape-2BC(Z)
900M-T-2C Shape-2C
900M-T-2CF Shape-2C
Also, what kinda flux are you guys using. I tried a flux pen from ChipQuick and that didn't go so well as the felt pen started to disentegrate after a while. And then I tried the Amtech syringe .... not sure if it was a fake but it also didn't turn out too good.
It's a completely flawed logic to conclude that because a lot of flux can compensate for lack of skill, then good skill requires no flux at all.
Of course, it was a joke.
Personally if I'm reworking boards and I need them to be clean I don't mind being liberal w/ flux if necessary. They all get cleaned in a heated bath of flux remover followed by an IPA and DI water rinse. Chances are you'll never fully activate
all the flux you apply so if it needs to be clean then you gotta clean it regardless.
I was using 900M-T-3CM Shape-3C, but I believe this was too thick for this kinda work.
Looking at the Hakko website, I suppose one of the below?
900M-T-1CF Shape-1C
900M-T-2BCZ Shape-2BC(Z)
900M-T-2C Shape-2C
900M-T-2CF Shape-2C
Also, what kinda flux are you guys using. I tried a flux pen from ChipQuick and that didn't go so well as the felt pen started to disentegrate after a while. And then I tried the Amtech syringe .... not sure if it was a fake but it also didn't turn out too good.
I did a quick search for one of the models and Hakko says it is applicable to discontinued handpieces.
https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.htmlThe handpiece on my FX-888 is FX-8801.
Regarding flux, I use the MG Chemicals Rosin Flux. Not the cleanest, but it works well.
It's a completely flawed logic to conclude that because a lot of flux can compensate for lack of skill, then good skill requires no flux at all.
Of course, it was a joke.
Personally if I'm reworking boards and I need them to be clean I don't mind being liberal w/ flux if necessary. They all get cleaned in a heated bath of flux remover followed by an IPA and DI water rinse. Chances are you'll never fully activate all the flux you apply so if it needs to be clean then you gotta clean it regardless.
If there is at least one switch on the PCB or not solvent proof capacitors, you should not put it into any fluid, including IPA. You have no other choice when you need to remove corrosion and are ready to replace switches. But when simply cleaning flux residues, often the cure is worse than the disease.
I did a quick search for one of the models and Hakko says it is applicable to discontinued handpieces.
You are right, so the updated available versions are listed below from this link
https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_t18.htmlT18-C05 Shape-0.5C
T18-C08 Shape-0.8C
T18-C1 Shape-1C
T18-C2 Shape-2C
T18-C3 Shape-3C
T18-C4 Shape-4C
T18-C5 Shape-5C
T18-CF1 Shape-1C
T18-CF15 Shape-1.5C
T18-CF2 Shape-2C
T18-CF3 Shape-3C
T18-CF4 Shape-4C
T18-CSF25 Shape-2.5CS
T18-S6 Shape-S6
ALL of the hakko bevel tips are suitable for the smallest of SMT soldering. The size you want to use will depend on how much space you have between the components.
Bigger tip means better thermal mass, means lower set temp, which means less frequent cleaning/tinning.
Larger cut face on the bevel also means more solder holding/applying/sucking capacity.
So bigger is better when it comes to bevel tips. Up to about 3mm, anyhow. If you go bigger than that, it's counterproductive, because the tip can't hold that large a solder bead. It just collapses and falls off.
You want the largest (up to maybe 3mm) one that fits your board or component spacing. If it fits, use it. Go smaller when you need to.