I found one. Thanks everyone.
So, as the title states. I am looking for a benchtop DMM. My max budget is $250, so as much as I may want a Agilent, HP, Keysight, Fluke... It ain't going to happen. I also don't want something 20 years old... What would be really great is if I could find a Siglent SDM 3055 in this price range. Yes, I realize I may be asking for too much, and I may not find something in my budget.
Thanks,
Andrew
o for the price, but you dont talk about your needs, digits etc .. voltages currents etc ..
So, as the title states. I am looking for a benchtop DMM. My max budget is $250, so as much as I may want a Agilent, HP, Keysight, Fluke... It ain't going to happen. I also don't want something 20 years old... What would be really great is if I could find a Siglent SDM 3055 in this price range. Yes, I realize I may be asking for too much, and I may not find something in my budget.
Nothing wrong with a 20yo bench meter.
Nothing wrong with a 20yo bench meter.
I have to agree.
A couple of years ago, I picked up a HP3478A from the USA,
shipped to Australia for under $AUD200. It just needed a link shifted for 240V operation ... and some attention to a few RIFA's.
Does what I need. (Yes I did recently succumb to the temptation for another ... but it
was 6.5 digit.
)
So, as the title states. I am looking for a benchtop DMM. My max budget is $250, so as much as I may want a Agilent, HP, Keysight, Fluke... It ain't going to happen. I also don't want something 20 years old... What would be really great is if I could find a Siglent SDM 3055 in this price range. Yes, I realize I may be asking for too much, and I may not find something in my budget.
Nothing wrong with a 20yo bench meter.
Nothing wrong with a 20 year old meter for someone who knows what they are doing and how to fix it if it has issues. I am brand new to electronics and I do not have confidence in fixing a 20 year old item if something is wrong, nor do I know what to really look for.
As to my needs, currently, AC/DC low volts. I am getting into sensors that output in millivolts for hobby projects.
If I can’t find a used unit, I’ll probably end up buying the vc8145. But I am hoping someone has something better for the price.
Nothing wrong with a 20 year old meter for someone who knows what they are doing and how to fix it if it has issues. I am brand new to electronics and I do not have confidence in fixing a 20 year old item if something is wrong, nor do I know what to really look for.
That may not be the best logical argument. Sometimes older kit is more basic and easier to work on.
The other BIG benefit is, that because it has been around for so long, common problems are not only more likely to be understood, but fixes well known ... and you are likely to find more than one member on the EEVblog that will not only have that information, but will be happy to step you through the repair process.
As to my needs, currently, AC/DC low volts. I am getting into sensors that output in millivolts for hobby projects.
I had similar needs - but definitely wanted 4 wire resistance measurement capability.
Nothing wrong with a 20 year old meter for someone who knows what they are doing and how to fix it if it has issues. I am brand new to electronics and I do not have confidence in fixing a 20 year old item if something is wrong, nor do I know what to really look for.
That may not be the best logical argument. Sometimes older kit is more basic and easier to work on.
The other BIG benefit is, that because it has been around for so long, common problems are not only more likely to be understood, but fixes well known ... and you are likely to find more than one member on the EEVblog that will not only have that information, but will be happy to step you through the repair process.
As to my needs, currently, AC/DC low volts. I am getting into sensors that output in millivolts for hobby projects.
I had similar needs - but definitely wanted 4 wire resistance measurement capability.
I already can do 4 wire resistor measurements. That was my downfall... I bought an Instek GOM-804 for measuring the resistance of my race motors. After buying that I bought a scope, and now I want a dmm. But I spent quite a bit already...
As to my needs, currently, AC/DC low volts. I am getting into sensors that output in millivolts for hobby projects.
In that case you really do need a 20+ year old meter as something like the Fluke 8842A (and also to an extent the HP3478A) has high-impedance low-voltage capabilities that you can't get new at twice your budget. The 8842A, for example has a 20.0000mV range with a resolution of 100
nanovolts and the 3478A a 30.xxxxmV range also with a resolution of 100nV. Both of them will have input impedances much, much higher than the standard 10M so you have minimal circuit loading. That high impedance goes up to 20V for the 8842A, but only to 3V for the 3478, so research before you buy anything.
Also, the older meters will actually have much better accuracy specs than most new 5.5-digit meters if that matters to you.
Nothing wrong with a 20 year old meter for someone who knows what they are doing and how to fix it if it has issues. I am brand new to electronics and I do not have confidence in fixing a 20 year old item if something is wrong, nor do I know what to really look for.
Sure, but these big name older bench DMM's are built like tanks and don't often fail.
Just don't buy a "for parts" and the odds of you getting a fully working unit is quite high. And if it works then they are almost always well within spec.
Easy to test if it works once you get it, and if it doesn't work you can always resell it for the same price or even potentially make a profit on it.
Rise and repeat until you get a fully working unit.
You won't get the same bang-per-buck on any modern cheap brand unit. And few modern cheap brands come up for used sale.
you can find many things IF you do your homework loll
Those both look a bit tired and expensive to me--the 8840A display is weak
VFD displays don't photograph well. So don't be put off by one that looks poor. It
could be poor of course, but often they better than the photo.
And I'm willing to bet this $160 HP3478A works just fine. Bargain for what you get.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394614302864
Best offer accepted. Who nabbed it?
I did!
Be sure to update us on how it goes.
Congratulations. Just make sure you understand its limitations and I think you will enjoy it. (Make sure you have reasonable illumination of the LCD for best readability.)
Check it for RIFA capacitors. Best to replace them before they release their smoke.
I really have to do mine.
older Flukes and Keithleys hardly go wrong but a Fluke 45 can be found sub 200usd in USA.
If it has had little use usual indications case not yellowed and buttons look fresh and the VFD display is not very dim.
My 45 Im pleased with and they are a bargain right now
If ever a problem you have a helpful community here so dont fret.
sadly used stuff price has gone bonkers, i could purchase 34401a at 200-300$ usd before the covid fiasco, and now they almost doubled ??
the 3468, 3478, 45 and many others suffer the same ''influence'' loll
I bought 3 Fluke 8840A/AF for parts looking for a project. They all were 100% functional, even the displays are bright. At that point I gave up on the project and just put them on my bench. I got them all for under $100 each, but it looks like prices have gone up a bit since then.
I did!
Sheesh! You're supposed to read about and stalk eBay deals for months on end, not snap at them like a hungry crocodile! Anyway, when you get it make sure you take it apart before you turn it on and measure the voltage of the memory battery. I'm assuming you have another basic meter of some sort already--don't attempt to use the 3478A to measure its own battery! It might seem basic, but there are somewhat regular posts from people that have destroyed their meter (of any kind) by attempting to measure its own battery. If its under 3.0V, you need to replace it soon to avoid losing the calibration data.
Another thing to keep in mind is that it doesn't have a 1000V range, it only goes up to ~300V. Also, you can fnd an .stl for back feet on Thingiverse, very handy if you want to stand the meter up without damaging it.
@trilerian
Before you touch the internal battery, try backing up the contents of the calibration RAM. This requires access to the 3478A via GPIB. The attached script will work with a Prologix GPIB-to-Ethernet adapter; elsewhere on the site you can find a similar script for a GPIB-to-USB adapter.
BTW, once you have such an adapter, you can also use TestController software (again, found elsewhere on the site) to control and read the 3478A.
Finally, when you tackle the battery replacement, be sure to read up on the procedure. You will want to have a standby battery connected to keep the RAM alive while the main battery is removed. And you don't want to accidentally short out the battery rail by using a grounded soldering iron...find a good writeup and you can dodge such issues.