Golden poker double up arcade machine schematic

Golden poker double up arcade machine schematic
Posted by poot36 on 30 Mar, 2017 04:07
I am wondering if anyone has the schematic or even the front panel wiring diagram to this poker machine? This is the table top version of this game like this: how ever I have multiple problems with it (lights don't work, screen has a purple tinged circle in the center, no sound). I have found two loose wires on the front panel as well as a very burnt looking resistor on the main PCB as well as a blown trace that goes to a power transistor that may be for the lights (I think this trace may have been blown by that fact that the PCB at one point touched the bent metal chassis at one point).

#1 Reply
Posted by james_s on 15 Mar, 2020 00:58
You might try posting on the KLOV forum, or one of the other arcade collecting forums, most of the arcade collectors I know are not into poker machines but there have got to be collectors out there who have them. People here can help you with general troubleshooting but most of them are not going to have expertise specific to a machine like that.

Is the display a CRT or LCD? If it's a CRT you could try degaussing it to correct the purple, but it's possible it took a hit that deformed the shadow mask.

#2 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 15 Mar, 2020 03:51
I tried making an account on the KLOV forum but I could not figure out how to fully log in, I think it may require a payment or someone to recommend me to get fully signed up and I don't support those non open type of rules. The display is a CRT and the image is sharp but has the purple circle in the center of it. I can take a picture of it if that helps. I did find these two links to extra info about this unit: https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=172 https://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=19260

#3 Reply
Posted by james_s on 15 Mar, 2020 04:06
It shouldn't take any payment, I signed up years ago and don't remember jumping through any hoops.

Are you sure you went to the right place? https://forums.arcade-museum.com/

#4 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 15 Mar, 2020 04:36
Here is a link to the new rules: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=176631

#5 Reply
Posted by james_s on 15 Mar, 2020 06:59
Hm well I guess they're having a spam problem. Donating a buck doesn't seem unreasonable though, like this one it's a very active forum with a lot of cumulative knowledge from people who have been participating for years.

#6 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 16 Mar, 2020 00:06
I guess that makes sense. I don't trust payment online though. If you are a member I think if I am reading it correctly you could recommend me and that would allow me to get full access. I have attached a few pictures to this post.

#7 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 16 Mar, 2020 00:08
Sorry about the blurriness of some of the pictures, was taken on my tablet in a not very well lit area.

#8 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 16 Mar, 2020 00:09
Some more pics.

#9 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 16 Mar, 2020 00:10
And finally the screen.

#10 Reply
Posted by james_s on 16 Mar, 2020 00:21
I mean it's a dollar, what are you worried about, that someone might steal your dollar? They're not asking for your life savings.

It looks like the tube is in good shape, it doesn't have any burn that I can see. Looks like you've got some tired capacitors in the monitor though.

#11 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 16 Mar, 2020 02:00
Based on the date codes on the chips I think it is from the mid 80's or so. I know that replacement caps would fix the odd looking screen at the top of the screen but would it fix the weird colors?

#12 Reply
Posted by james_s on 16 Mar, 2020 02:10
I would try degaussing the tube, if the internal degaussing coil has failed then you'll get weird colors, that's called purity error. It can also happen if the tube has been dropped or hit causing the shadow mask to shift, or the deflection yoke could have been moved.

#13 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 17 Mar, 2020 01:46
I don't think it has a degaussing coil as I don't hear the sound that it would make when activated. I do have a big coil from a 27" tv that I scarped would that work or would I have to fold it in some way to make it small enough to work (I was thinking of twisting it 180 on one side and then folding it over on itself a few times but I don't know what that would do the magnetic field. Or would I have to make my own and run it off a low power AC transformer?

#14 Reply
Posted by james_s on 17 Mar, 2020 04:15
You can absolutely fold up a larger coil into several turns of a smaller diameter, I've done that before. A salvaged coil from a TV will heat up pretty fast if you connect it straight to the line since they normally only operate for half a second or so but if you put an incandescent bulb in series that will limit the current.

The little degaussing coils used in small monitors like this normally don't really make much noise though.

#15 Reply
Posted by Cyberdragon on 19 Mar, 2020 00:00
Ni-Cad spotted. Delete that ticking time bomb (battery corrosion is hell).

#16 Reply
Posted by james_s on 19 Mar, 2020 00:08
Quote from: Cyberdragon on 19 Mar, 2020 00:00
Ni-Cad spotted. Delete that ticking time bomb (battery corrosion is hell).

Good call, those make a real mess. I've spent a great deal of time cleaning up damage from leaking NiCd batteries on arcade boards, Qbert and Omega Race are particularly notorious for this, same with Amiga computers. When the battery leaks it makes a real mess. The lithium thionyl chloride batteries used in the old Macs are even worse.

#17 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 20 Mar, 2020 02:46
I did check the Ni-Cad and it is not leaking. I will try and disassemble the monitor this weekend and see if the is any degaussing coil or not.

#18 Reply
Posted by james_s on 21 Mar, 2020 17:39
There has to be a degaussing coil, all shadow mask/aperature grill color CRTs have one. Whether it's functioning properly or not is another matter though.

#19 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 22 Mar, 2020 18:58
I don't see a coil or any place to plug one in. More pics.

#20 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 22 Mar, 2020 18:59
Tag + bottom PCB.

#21 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 22 Mar, 2020 19:01
Top of PCB. Got any ideas of the best way to clean all the cigarette smoke and tar off all of this with out damaging the components?

#22 Reply
Posted by chris_leyson on 22 Mar, 2020 19:08
IPA maybe, lots of it and kitchen rolls, cotton buds and a lot of patience. Good luck

#23 Reply
Posted by james_s on 22 Mar, 2020 19:15
I usually run them through the dishwasher, use only about 1/6 the usual amount of detergent though. Other things I'll put them in the sink, spray them with Oil Eater and then gently scrub with a soft bristled brush, rinse thoroughly with hot water and then set it out to dry for a few days. If I'm in a hurry I'll follow up the rinse with a rinse in alcohol which rinses off the water then evaporates quickly. If you have minerals in your tap water then a final rinse in distilled water would be a good idea but I don't have that problem here. Try to avoid getting water into the focus/screen pots as those take the longest to dry out if they get damp.

#24 Reply
Posted by poot36 on 22 Mar, 2020 22:28
I tried washing it in the sink with just hot water and abound 90% of the crud came off. If I really care I could take the garden hose sprayer to it when the weather warms up. The metal parts are still somewhat stained brown but that I don't care that much about. I at least can now read the values on the components. The one cap that I think will be hard to find is the 10uF 35V nonpolar that is in the horizontal output section but other than that I think all the other electrolytic's are low voltage types as this monitor only runs off 13.2V AC that is half wave rectified from two taps on the transformer with a center tap that is grounded.