Disconnect the cells from the board before repairing!
This is so simple board that it could be designed with a pencil on paper or in Fritzing (not that I recommend it). It also limits how many rookie mistakes can be made on it, especially since we are talking about making an exact duplicate of an existing design, not designing a board from scratch.
You mean you are able to home brew those exact dimension vias and God knows how many layers board are those on a pencil and paper.?
"So simple"....?
Lets stay on the practical side
And Janoc cut down the BS
But I am not going to waste more time on this discussion then if it is BS.
a fellow talking about multilayer boards
It may be a multilayer board in which case a repair will not be easy.
Yeah. I was fearing it was multi layer.
Problem is what is under those rf cans if the pcb is multi layer your out of luck.
Sorry, didn't see the second lot.
That trace in the middle, scrape it back a bit from the ends and use some fine wire(piece of ribbon cable is nice).
For the 2 main traces, join with a bit of thicker wire from your collection.
Make sure the solder joints are offset a bit, so you don't get any shorts.
Nothing exciting on the end of the board that broke of, just traces out to the battery tabs.
Make sure you check for shorts.
Disconnect the cells from the board before repairing!
Insulate everything when you are done.
Sorry, didn't see the second lot.
That trace in the middle, scrape it back a bit from the ends and use some fine wire(piece of ribbon cable is nice).
For the 2 main traces, join with a bit of thicker wire from your collection.
Make sure the solder joints are offset a bit, so you don't get any shorts.
Nothing exciting on the end of the board that broke of, just traces out to the battery tabs.
Make sure you check for shorts.
Disconnect the cells from the board before repairing!
Insulate everything when you are done.
Ok, So I should desolder the batteries first? Is a heat gun and something to insulate the battery from the hot air best, or just a large (large thermal capacity) soldiering iron best?
Ok. I'll keep thermal load in mind, and be as quick and delicate as I can.
[Quick Edit]
I said this was a learning experience. So, it's given me some time to practice checking continuity on traces... The middle track seems to go from B2+ to B1-
I'm assuming for now, the bottom track is the one that goes from B2- to the charge control/balancing? I'll check that trace next.
Scraping done. Checked some continuity... and I'm puzzled.
No idea how it is "wired" up. Other than bridging the traces and hoping for the best. I cannot see where/how there could be any shorts. I could always file off the one tiny bit of copper on the surface near the snap. But it mainly snapped where there is only a trace on one side.