I have here an offcut of 2040 V-Slot from a reputable supplier. The centre core measures 19.95mm, the total width is 39.90mm, the 'wings' 19.76mm aross their full width and 19.6mm for the last mm or so. The widest inside dimension of the slots is specced out at 11mm - on the 40mm face, this measures exactly 11.00mm on my samples. On the 20mm face, it measures 10.89mm. The main opening is specified at 6.25mm, on the 40mm face it's 6.4mm, on the 20mm, 6.27mm.
I have here an offcut of 2040 V-Slot from a reputable supplier. The centre core measures 19.95mm, the total width is 39.90mm, the 'wings' 19.76mm aross their full width and 19.6mm for the last mm or so. The widest inside dimension of the slots is specced out at 11mm - on the 40mm face, this measures exactly 11.00mm on my samples. On the 20mm face, it measures 10.89mm. The main opening is specified at 6.25mm, on the 40mm face it's 6.4mm, on the 20mm, 6.27mm.Wondering how much did you pay for this to a reputable supplier?
I have here an offcut of 2040 V-Slot from a reputable supplier. The centre core measures 19.95mm, the total width is 39.90mm, the 'wings' 19.76mm aross their full width and 19.6mm for the last mm or so. The widest inside dimension of the slots is specced out at 11mm - on the 40mm face, this measures exactly 11.00mm on my samples. On the 20mm face, it measures 10.89mm. The main opening is specified at 6.25mm, on the 40mm face it's 6.4mm, on the 20mm, 6.27mm.Wondering how much did you pay for this to a reputable supplier?
Look up the price of Openbuilds extrusions..
What 3D printer do people recommend in the <4k range? I was considering a Formlabs Form 3, but the build size is a bit small for a general purpose printer and it's limited to resin.
No strong requirements, but I would like something where I don't have to spend a lot of fiddling getting it to print with reasonable repeatability. I would also like to print PVDF for parts that require PVDF's chemical resistance.
Not sure what the state on 3D printing threads nowadays is, but not having to tap the finished part or use inserts would be nice.
Do you mean like this https://ooznest.co.uk/product/v-slot-linear-rail-20x20mm-cut-to-size/ ?
There are quite bold statements, understandable who a target audience, but still...
They mentioned their extrusion done from 6063 T-5, in my understanding is an economy alloy and cheap, what you would expect then, especially "These extrusions are manufactured in the UK." ?!
So you're saying it has similarly proud center rail to the 40x40 we were talking about? Yeah; still not fit for purpose. I mean yeah, 7 thou is nowhere near as bad as what HobGoblyn showed us, but still... if I'd bought any quantity of that, and had the kind of problems as he's having getting things square, I'd probably raise holy hell with the supplier. If it was OpenBuilds, I'd expect a resolution... other sources; probably not, and have to open a ticket with PayPal.
That's like asking "What motor vehicle under 4K is best for me?"
Kindof need more info on what you actually plan to do with it before we can even hazard a guess.
mnem
So you're saying it has similarly proud center rail to the 40x40 we were talking about? Yeah; still not fit for purpose. I mean yeah, 7 thou is nowhere near as bad as what HobGoblyn showed us, but still... if I'd bought any quantity of that, and had the kind of problems as he's having getting things square, I'd probably raise holy hell with the supplier. If it was OpenBuilds, I'd expect a resolution... other sources; probably not, and have to open a ticket with PayPal.
I stated my measurements - which are in line with what HobGoblyn demonstrated. I've no need for a resolution as no part of my present usage of it depends on that face.
So you're saying it has similarly proud center rail to the 40x40 we were talking about? Yeah; still not fit for purpose. I mean yeah, 7 thou is nowhere near as bad as what HobGoblyn showed us, but still... if I'd bought any quantity of that, and had the kind of problems as he's having getting things square, I'd probably raise holy hell with the supplier. If it was OpenBuilds, I'd expect a resolution... other sources; probably not, and have to open a ticket with PayPal.
I stated my measurements - which are in line with what HobGoblyn demonstrated. I've no need for a resolution as no part of my present usage of it depends on that face.
I'm going to pick one little nit here... what you measured is roughly .007 inch proud; less than the thickness of 2 sheets of the really cheap, thin copier paper. That would not even be visible in HobGoblyn's demonstration. What he shows is more like 20-30 thou, maybe more.
As I stated above; after looking at the math, that would result in at most around 1-2mm runout at 400mm length; little enough that I'd probably just tweak it during assembly.
mnem
Most of the rest of the print looked OK except for a layer shift in the final layer (and can also see a layer shift about 1/2 way up everywhere. I'm not sure whether this may well have something to do with the nozzle clunking across the print rather than some other problem.
Is that the original bowden or have you put a direct drive extruder?
First thing I'd try is halving the max acceleration settings, to give more time to the extruder to do its thing better, properly, especially when approaching turns/corners and stops. As I've said before, the extruder (proper extrusion) is the most problematic / difficult thing to get right, IMHO.
Too low x/y stepper driver currents, and or too high acceleration, might also produce layer shifts.
Most of the rest of the print looked OK except for a layer shift in the final layer (and can also see a layer shift about 1/2 way up everywhere. I'm not sure whether this may well have something to do with the nozzle clunking across the print rather than some other problem.
I ran into layer shifts a long time ago and did a lot of research on that. It turned out that I needed to set my jerk to 10 mm/s instead of 20 mm/s. After that the layer shifts were gone. Jerk setting is in the Speed settings area. You may have to open the full Settings menu to see it - Preferences - Configure Cura - Settings - Jerk.
IOW, that default 50 mm/s is too high a speed for the bowdens in these printers, ...
IOW, that default 50 mm/s is too high a speed for the bowdens in these printers, ...
In your opinion it might be too high, but mine's been at 50 mm/s ever since I got it and I have no problems with that speed with the bowden. I have beautiful prints when there isn't the occasional other random problem we all encounter from time to time.
Perhaps that's what you think, but even the atmega that comes built in can't keep up at those speeds... so maybe you think it was printing at 50 mm/s but it wasn't.
Perhaps that's what you think, so maybe you think it can't print at 50 mm/s but it was.
Perhaps that's what you think, so maybe you think it can't print at 50 mm/s but it was.
Don't you ever see any hiccups?
If it's set to 50 mm/s, and it's just able to physically do some slower speed that the software doesn't know about (but thinks it's actually doing 50 mm/s), then is the print going to come out OK?