I have to say, when I spent 50 odd days with my ender 3 pro, I was getting a little disillusioned, thinking I was on a road to nowhere.
Since returning it and getting the CR10 v2, it has never needed levelling past the first time. Even when I tilted it, placed it on it's side etc to trace the wiring, when I put it back upright and did a level test, nothing needed adjusting it was all perfectly in place.
I read facebook posts of people having problem after problem, others say they've never had problems, I''m convinced there's simply some badly made printers out there.
I've had my first failure on my CR10 v2 today, a print taking up all 300mm of the bed, the corners lifted. Bed was only 50 degrees, I suspect the heat doesn't get to the edges so hopefully increasing bed temp will fix it.
Had similar problems with the Tornado; waiting an extra 15 minutes after bed came up to temp for it to equalize across the entire surface (confirmed it took this long with infra-thermometer) and added ~2-3mm brim around the print fixed it. You can also set it so the brim stops just before the print; just set it one line's worth. With the squish, this makes it hair thin so it still holds, but peels off the part easier.
Don't preheat your hotend; let the gcode handle that.
I also have no compunctions about using hairspray if a large print fails and tries to fuck with my head; IMO, if it works, it's not a crutch.
mnem
*toddles off to ded*
Hairspray and turn the bed temp up a bit?
I had the Creality glass bed, and I didn't think it was that great as far as parts sticking to it. Last year I wanted to get a different glass bed to try. I ordered one like this -
Mystery Glass bed
NOTE: At least those are the same set of pictures as the one I bought. I can't say for sure because there is no brand name on it or on the box it came in. It's a mystery maker.
But, what I wanted to say was, it's performance is FAR better than the Creality bed as far as parts sticking. I've looked at the surfaces of the two and they are not the same prepared surface. The Creality bed is "shiny" and this one isn't. I can't say more than that because I have no objective way to compare them other than printing on them.
But as I said - the unlabelled bed has been working extremely well for me for a year - no parts sticking issues.
Well I finally beat it (2.0.6) into submission. It finally compiled and left me a .bin file that worked. Eh - it did have a few yellow accentuated grumblings of a few items it reported that didn't sit well with the compiler, but apparently they didn't matter much.
It's printing out one of the N scale containers for my model railroad now - looks perfectly fine.
Well I finally beat it (2.0.6) into submission. It finally compiled and left me a .bin file that worked. Eh - it did have a few yellow accentuated grumblings of a few items it reported that didn't sit well with the compiler, but apparently they didn't matter much.
It's printing out one of the N scale containers for my model railroad now - looks perfectly fine.
Thanks for taking one for the team on this one, x.
I think I'll just linger on known-working builds of 1.9.x until my CR6-SE arrives.
Seems an area ripe for research for a unified "this is the Final Solution" build plate surface.
Yeah; as long as you have mesh leveling. Which just trades bottom surface imperfections for those generated by constantly moving the Y-axis, and adds Ifni-knows-how-much wear & tear on rollers & cheap-ass leadscrews already known to be pretty loosey-goosey.
mnem
I just can't WAIT till mine gets here!!!
Yeah; as long as you have mesh leveling. Which just trades bottom surface imperfections for those generated by constantly moving the Y-axis, and adds Ifni-knows-how-much wear & tear on rollers & cheap-ass leadscrews already known to be pretty loosey-goosey.
mnem
I just can't WAIT till mine gets here!!!
Or, y'know, you could put it on a decently flat bed to begin with
Or, y'know, you could put it on a decently flat bed to begin with
Which is not reasonable to expect from a flex build plate. If there's one thing hardened ferrous metal loves to do, it's move when heat is applied.
YouTube tutorials? But I thought ...
I ain't catching that flak twice!
Trouble with YouTube 3D printer tutorials and Facebook is that few agree with one another. I originally turned on the combing as suggested by one site, yet on Facebook I was advised to turn it off (which did help for this roll of filament).