I am finishing designing the dual Z on my ender 5.
I have to CNC a 369x210x4 mm aluminuim plate.
Once it is done I will catch you at .016LH mnem...
Then we can both try 0.12.
I think 0.10 is possible, but maybe not with the microsteps on 8mm pitch leadscrew. I'd have to do the math; might have to drop down to 0.08mm, not likely possible.
Then too, the CR-6SE is a native mesh-leveling design with fixed bed height and belt-synchronized Dual-Z, so maybe we CAN get that much precision out of a V-Slot design, if we're ready to run it slow enough...
You mean nobody has a Dual-Z kit out for that model yet...? It's been out a while, hasn't it?
mnem
You mean nobody has a Dual-Z kit out for that model yet...? It's been out a while, hasn't it?
I googled it, all what I saw was chinesium or a solution that reduce the XY area.
So I decided to DIY.
Well, in their defense, it is a Chinesium 3DP so... I mean, stamped-aluminum-plate level of precision should be all that's required...
mnem
They
are going to be belt-synchronized, correct...?
mnem
No, no synch belt.
Improved design
the one before had weak point/axes exact where the higher flex will be.
I fired the rnd mechanical chief.
EDIT: see tech draw in attachment
Independent drive and leveling > sync belt. You do need three, though.
I am blown away...
schematics, manual, top and bottom layer everything is super well documented and available
hereBIGTREETECH finally someone in china is swimming upstream!
The upgrade has begun
Very glad that inspired by
this I used 3mm L alu profile to mount the electronic in the back of the Ender5.
Unwanted safety feature: you can't remove the elec box panel without removing the main plug first
Independent drive and leveling > sync belt. You do need three, though.
I tend to agree
With 2mm pitch leadscrew, I'd agree. With the usual 8mm pitch, just one more assache to keep retuning over and over and over again.
mnem
Independent drive and leveling > sync belt. You do need three, though.
I tend to agree
With 2mm pitch leadscrew, I'd agree. With the usual 8mm pitch, just one more assache to keep retuning over and over and over again.
mnem
There's no assache, it just does it. And if you don't turn the steppers off, it only has to do it once.
I am blown away...
schematics, manual, top and bottom layer everything is super well documented and available here
BIGTREETECH finally someone in china is swimming upstream!
You know, I think having v1.3 be a variant of the OSHW
SmoothieBoard made them realize it is a good way to do this business. (Make no mistake, SmoothieWare has always explicitly
encouraged others to do this; this is a positive thing for all involved. Props to Arthur Wolf!)
Printed parts for a scrap yard office for N scale railroad. Came out great.
why don't you install a 0.2mm nozzle?
Nice stuff btw.
why don't you install a 0.2mm nozzle?
Nice stuff btw.
I have one and I have tried it for some very (ridiculously) small items to see what would happen. A guy had designed a VW engine (the old air-cooled one) in 1:160 scale and wanted me to see if it would come out OK on my 3D printer. I said Hell No not with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I printed it to show him and it was basically a little blob of goo, but I bought a 0.2 mm just to see. It sort of kind of looked like the CAD mode - but it's not that obvious. It' just not worth it for what I'm printing out.
You know what "weathering" is right? Making perfect things look beaten and worn like the real world. It seems counter-intuitive at first, but it's actually not always good to have perfect things printed out, at least for what I'm making for this model railroad. The fact that models have small defects when 3D printed is sometimes a good thing.
[...] The fact that models have small defects when 3D printed is sometimes a good thing.
Nothing's so bad it ain't good for
something!
xrunner once I have taken all the chinesium parts out from my ender 5, I will sell everything to you.
Very messy, realistic old looking, imprecise, and fuzzy 3D print results guaranteed.