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I decided to treat myself to an Ender6 printer as an early Xmas prezzie to myself. It's nice but not 100% so I thought I'd join their user forum to discuss some things. But either the site is broken or they're not bothering to administer it as I can't get past the new user stage.. I was expecting an activation email which didn't arrive (yes I did check my spam folder), and any posts get a "queued for approval" message but then disappear.
Creality's email support response varies from (ignore) to (ignore) to "Dear customer very sorry for the inconvenience" and "it should work" - this has been ongoing for 2-3 weeks now. Unfortunately there is no way to message an administrator on the forum itself other than direct chat, which is of course ignored.
Is anyone here a member, or has tried to sign up? -
Hi,
Yes, signed up last summer, but think it took about 3-4 days for the first post to be enabled, then the answer was not that helpful ! though have not use it since.
Thankfully my Ender3 V2 went together without any problems, so long as you check All the frame bolts etc.
Sadly a friend who bought one earlier this month had nothing but trouble, the wiring to the Z stepper what the wrong way around, so it went in the wrong direction, the E stepper was faulty and dispensed randonn lengths of filament and there was a leak from a poor seal on the actual nozzle !
He already had a 3D printer so was experienced enough to overcome those problems, but not easy for a newbie !
You could post your problems here, someone might help, though they do say the social media sites like FB have lots of 3D chat or sites like Reddit -
Actually I was quite impressed by how straightforward mine went together, especially considering it's a core-XY design with a cuboid frame. I did come across a few horror stories (in the period between ordering & receiving it of course) but they seem to have rectified most of their earlier problems.
The only real quality issue I have is the extruder fan has sloppy bearings so sometimes gives that howl of a fan on its way out but to be honest I'll probably get my own replacement than endure the pain of a warranty claim, as I'll probably get an equally shit one.
Aside from that the one disappointment I have is lack of bed adhesion. The heated bed uses glass with a crisscross texture either coated or etched, I'm not sure, which looks great and gives a good surface texture but doesn't stick very well compared to good old plain glass.
To help with consistency I decided to get a BLtouch sensor for auto bed levelling, as there is both a physical mount and a connector for one. I had to work out the connection and make my own cable which is no problem but when checking the wiring I notice the supply is 3.3v. The BLtouch specs 4.8-5.1v. Hmm. It does work, there's not enough headroom for the blue LED to operate but that's fine by me as I don't like them anyway. I'm guessing there must be a LDO on the sensor and whatever MCU it's using just has enough to operate. I'm sure if I query it they'll just say "ahh please use Creality sensor" (even tho the board connector is labelled bltouch). Not sure if there is 5v available on the main board but I don't really want to take the thing apart and start reverse engineering it.
Don't do farcebook etc, life's too short!
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Kind of had the opposite problem with things sticking too well to my bed !
This CHEP test print is quiet useful in testing out how level your bed is, but the trick as he shows in some of his Ytubes, is to follow the head and lightly rub the filament with your fingertips to see of its stays on the bed. If not adjusting the Z Offset by one and trying again.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018
You could try adding a Raft or Brim in Cura to offer extra area/ hold until you have got things properly sorted.
Also added a BLtouch the other week, a clone one, and the few prints we have done were fine, PLA,PLA+.
Seem to remember seeing some pictures showing they use an ATmega chip so know they can run down at 3v3 for non high speed work.
Had to print a cover to hide our little blue led, just annoyingly bright when on the desktop.
This young lady does an excellent video on those BL sensors and how you can test and calculate the accuracy of yours.
Our clone was worse than hers but our friend had nearly the same as hers,
Don't know anything about your E 6 firmware but our E 3 with the Jyers allows us to view the beds level, we initially did 5x5 but settled for 3x3
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Get the bed visualizer for Octoprint and you can get a nice view -
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Yes
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The only real quality issue I have is the extruder fan has sloppy bearings so sometimes gives that howl of a fan on its way out but to be honest I'll probably get my own replacement than endure the pain of a warranty claim, as I'll probably get an equally shit one.
Well that came around sooner than expected! I'm old enough to know not to do things when I'm tired but I decided to mess around anyway and try some test prints on a very boring Boxing Day whilst completely & utterly blurry-eyed light-headed knackered. Started a print and used my tweezers to quckly grab a strand of PLA that had oozed out during warm up, but with pretty much bugger all hand/eye coordination the tip went into the fan inlet resulting in a bang, a lot of vibration and a couple of fan blades sitting on the bed
. Ho hum.
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Time to print yourself a fan guard.
Also, use a wipe routine for gcode startup, in Cura this is under machine settings. You can have it pause, or have it extrude off in the corner of the bed. -
Time to print yourself a fan guard.
Ha.. the machine has an enclosed fan & guard. It's just extreme bad luck that I managed to poke the tweezers directly through one of the slots - didn't even touch the side, well not until the fan blade hit anyway. Never mind, new fan arrived & fitted and it's back working now.QuoteAlso, use a wipe routine for gcode startup, in Cura this is under machine settings. You can have it pause, or have it extrude off in the corner of the bed.
The printer profile supplied with Cura performs a purge strip which is facilitated in the startup G-code starting at X10,Y20 and running down the left side of the bed. The design of this model means the homing switches are diagonally opposite the X0,Y0 print coordinate so what happens is the head warms up (and oozes) then travels right across the print area before starting. I've changed the G-code so the strip starts near the physical home position and it's much better now, any crud either sticks to the purge strip or hangs off the edge.